Tremor & Four Wheel Camper

Towing my 8500+ lb TT I find the Tow Mode too aggressive with the downshifts on descents. I will often pop the shifter into Neutral. I've never noticed the engine braking probably because the tranny revs drown it out. On a big descent I will have the Engine Brake on Auto or Manual if it is a steep one anyway.

There should be a Tow Mode Lite and a Heavy IMHO.
I have about the same weight trailer…and having the rpms run up to 3k on a downhill slope because I tapped the brakes is very annoying to say the least. And it can’t possibly be good for the engine over the long haul? If I remember…I drop into manual and control the downshift that way. Unfortunately, I often don’t remember and then have a mini terets fit while I cycle through to normal.
I will try the neutral and see how that works. I am very easy on the truck overall…especially when towing. I often wonder what harm normal mode is doing while towing when not in the mountains?
 
I'm not saying it doesn't work well. I just wish I could dial it back.
In rolling terrain I will take it out of Tow Mode so I can fly him like
a glider and use my potential energy gained on the climbs
employing the engine brake as needed.
I noticed this challenge coming in/out of some river valleys this weekend with my camper on. I've only had it on my truck for two weeks, and this was my first *real* mileage with it. It was a little intense at times, I wish it was a bit more dynamic.

I did use the Trail Cruise Control on a few logging roads. Ascents were nice, but it really shined on descents.
 

pschrader1969


"The connection to the truck is installed on the driver's side in the truck bed.
As well, the eye bolts to tie to the truck are installed in the truck bed...."

Great setup pschrader - living the dream ! And thanks for all the great info too👍
A couple more questions if you don't mind;
Any details/links on how you tied the camper to the inside of the truck bed?
Did you plug into the electric connections already in the bed (5th wheel setup) or drill a hole?
They ran wire back from the passenger battery on mine. I had them upgrade to 6awg over the factor 10awg, as it's a known limitation for charging the batteries off the truck.

I'll eventually move to a DC/DC charger to better take advantage of that upgrade, but in the interim, I'm seeing about 15 while running amps into the camper batteries.
 
Yeah, when I go off-roading with my buddy and his Rubicon we tent it but pretty luxuriously. 30 minutes to pack up might be optimistic. ;)
With our ORV Backcountry trailer trying to get the wife moving in 30 minutes is a complete pipe dream! :LOL:
Gospel ..!!
 
I am going to order a Tremmor, holding out for a 2023 in hopes for updated interior, Blue Cruise, and really really hoping they incorporate the 7.2kW – Pro Power Onboard. It is crazy to think about how much these campers could change with the pro power. No more batteries, inverter, propane tanks, solar, chargers, hole in the bed for wires, I am sure I am missing stuff. But that is what 300lb - 400lbs in weight savings and cost savings too. Might even make for much better AC options.

I have never had a camper, but what are you experienced guys thoughts behind how having 7.2kW – Pro Power Onboard in a Tremmor with a camper set up?
 
I am going to order a Tremmor, holding out for a 2023 in hopes for updated interior, Blue Cruise, and really really hoping they incorporate the 7.2kW – Pro Power Onboard. It is crazy to think about how much these campers could change with the pro power. No more batteries, inverter, propane tanks, solar, chargers, hole in the bed for wires, I am sure I am missing stuff. But that is what 300lb - 400lbs in weight savings and cost savings too. Might even make for much better AC options.

I have never had a camper, but what are you experienced guys thoughts behind how having 7.2kW – Pro Power Onboard in a Tremmor with a camper set up?
The 150 generators only work when engine is running. Having generator in a super duty would not be much help if you had to run the truck engine
 
Would anyone with a hawk be able to show me some pics of your eyebolt placement? Is everyone running eyebolts with backing plates? I seen some mention of Rachel straps and torklift tiedowns. I’ve been eyeing FWCs for a while and came across a used one. Just trying to see if I can manage the installation of the hard points myself VS Taking it 2.5 hrs down the road to the closest FWC dealer for install.
 
Would anyone with a hawk be able to show me some pics of your eyebolt placement? Is everyone running eyebolts with backing plates? I seen some mention of Rachel straps and torklift tiedowns. I’ve been eyeing FWCs for a while and came across a used one. Just trying to see if I can manage the installation of the hard points myself VS Taking it 2.5 hrs down the road to the closest FWC dealer for install.
My 2022 F350 install. I had my local (2-hour drive) FWC dealer drill the holes and do the wiring from the engine compartment to the cargo box. Like you, I thought about doing it myself but decided after spending $75K on the truck, another $740 was little to pay for the peace of mind. That said, FWC does have a video on their web site that explains exactly where and how to drill the holes for the eye bolts -

The backing plates are a different story. Given the aluminum body, I wanted a stronger, more rigid anchor for the camper than what is normally supplied by FWC. This was my preference and I tend to overbuild everything I work on. I fabricated my own backing plates out of ¼” aluminum plate and sized them so they would span under a cross member (or two when available) below the bed of the truck for more strength.

The image below shows the FWC backing plate circled in red. The custom fab plates circled in purple are for the front of the camper, and the plates for the back of the camper are circled in green. For added strength I also installed the FWC backing plates on top (see pics) of my custom fab plates. I also fabricated plates that go in the top of the bed (circled in black). The eye bolt holes are drilled in the low part of the ribbing of the bed and the fab plate goes into that part of the bed so a fender washer can lay flush on the top of the bed ribbing. It also spreads the stress forces over a greater area of the bed.

If you decide to use additional backing plates under or above the bed, make sure all of the edges and corners are rounded off to prevent the backing plates from cutting into the bed. If you do all these things, you will need to get longer eye bolts to span all the backing plates.

Installing the backing plates is straight forward. The most difficult plate is the driver’s side front plate. The only way to get the plate into position is to slide it across the top of the fuel tank starting above the drive shaft. It’s a pain in the behind but can be done. See images below for final installation of the front backing plates. Sorry, I don’t have pics of the rear ones and the truck has already been put into storage for the season.
 

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  • Passenger side front backing plate install.webp
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My 2022 F350 install. I had my local (2-hour drive) FWC dealer drill the holes and do the wiring from the engine compartment to the cargo box. Like you, I thought about doing it myself but decided after spending $75K on the truck, another $740 was little to pay for the peace of mind. That said, FWC does have a video on their web site that explains exactly where and how to drill the holes for the eye bolts -

The backing plates are a different story. Given the aluminum body, I wanted a stronger, more rigid anchor for the camper than what is normally supplied by FWC. This was my preference and I tend to overbuild everything I work on. I fabricated my own backing plates out of ¼” aluminum plate and sized them so they would span under a cross member (or two when available) below the bed of the truck for more strength.

The image below shows the FWC backing plate circled in red. The custom fab plates circled in purple are for the front of the camper, and the plates for the back of the camper are circled in green. For added strength I also installed the FWC backing plates on top (see pics) of my custom fab plates. I also fabricated plates that go in the top of the bed (circled in black). The eye bolt holes are drilled in the low part of the ribbing of the bed and the fab plate goes into that part of the bed so a fender washer can lay flush on the top of the bed ribbing. It also spreads the stress forces over a greater area of the bed.

If you decide to use additional backing plates under or above the bed, make sure all of the edges and corners are rounded off to prevent the backing plates from cutting into the bed. If you do all these things, you will need to get longer eye bolts to span all the backing plates.

Installing the backing plates is straight forward. The most difficult plate is the driver’s side front plate. The only way to get the plate into position is to slide it across the top of the fuel tank starting above the drive shaft. It’s a pain in the behind but can be done. See images below for final installation of the front backing plates. Sorry, I don’t have pics of the rear ones and the truck has already been put into storage for the season.
Thank you for the pics and explanation.
 
Damn they both look really nice. Did you do anything special to the truck for the camper?
 
Damn they both look really nice. Did you do anything special to the truck for the camper?
Torklift tie downs. Overload and spring pack kits. Hellwig big wig sway bars front and rear with a disconnect on one side .
On paper the diesel has less capacity than the gasser..this is probably the heavier unit out there. Full option list with slide. No issues with truck or ride on the hiway. Run it into northern BC twice a year. No sway or stability concerns . Tow a 30 foot snowmobile trailer. Torklift hitch extension.
 
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