Thank you!! Looks like I’ll need to work out the difference between those two, since they seem very similar. One other interesting bit: they say the max allowable amperage is 30 amps, but the factory inverter has a 60 amp fuse on it.
Not magic... I have some electrical/wiring contacts from a past position and they helped me out!Thank you!! Looks like I’ll need to work out the difference between those two, since they seem very similar. One other interesting bit: they say the max allowable amperage is 30 amps, but the factory inverter has a 60 amp fuse on it.
Also…how?!
If you don’t mind, can you please enlighten me how you found those connectors? What you searched for? Which sites you used? Right now it just feels like magic and I’m not a fan of magic.
Well that's super appreciated, both to you for asking and them for helping. No way I would have found that otherwise!
Ya that makes sense, and is what I'm leaning towards as well. Going to do some math and see what I can figure out for how much the inverter will draw.
Ok, so the only difference between those two is the type of plastic they're made of. Based on the stamping on the factory one, it's PBT so I'll match that with the male end. That means 7282-6458-40 is the correct part.
If you buy 10, I'll throw down $10 for one.
Well, if there's enough interest I'll do it. Wouldn't mind having a spare connector for myself in case I somehow mess the first one up. If there's other interest then I can justify doing the bulk purchase and mailing them out.
Fuses are rated to protect the wire not the device.Thank you!! Looks like I’ll need to work out the difference between those two, since they seem very similar. One other interesting bit: they say the max allowable amperage is 30 amps, but the factory inverter has a 60 amp fuse on it.
Also…how?!
If you don’t mind, can you please enlighten me how you found those connectors? What you searched for? Which sites you used? Right now it just feels like magic and I’m not a fan of magic.
Interesting! Figured it would protect the connector, too, but good to know!
yikes..I think a square wave output would be better than that garbage for most devices one would want to plug in. I bet all that dwell time at zero voltage really messes with stuff.
Connector too. Fuses and circuit breakers are sized to protect wire connectors etc. so that if there is over current or short the fuse blows before any thing down stream heats up enough to catch fire
..
On the Apache helicopter, we soldered all the avionics wiring but not the electrical connections. Even the electrical connections in the engines were direct connect and not soldered. I was a sheetmetal and fiberglass mechanic so I always wondered about why that was done that way. Now that makes sense.
Awesome! Well, I will definitely be documenting it thoroughly.
I’ve decided to ignore the factory inverter altogether. It’s useless to me on 2 counts- it’s not 240v and it’s not pure sine wave. When I get my accessory battery and dc to dc charger installed, I’ll wire in a pure sine wave inverter and mount them in all in the tray, and add a volt meter and USB charging points
One more reason wires are crimped and not soldered is they are less prone to breaking when moved or flexed. A soldered connection can become hard and stiff due to the solder flowing up the wire, causing it to become brittle at the crimp joint. In this situation, it can easily break if flexed or prone to vibration over a period of time. I only use soldered joints in cases where I can't afford a wire to become a high resistance connection due to water penetration such as on a boat. Even then, I use solder sparingly only at the wire protrusion at the ring and shrink wrap the entire exposed wire, or use a closed end crimp. I also use dielectric grease to ward off moisture.
That makes a ton of sense, particularly with the voltage mismatch.
