Removeable Alternative to Hammerlocks

Ok, now that I have Shadowfax back I had a chance to test fit both the 5/8" and 3/4" Crosby shackles I have for recovery, see which one fits. Turns out the 5/8" fits perfectly! Can make the turn such that it fits with the bow in the hole and the pin facing out, minimizing any side loading.

Ordering two 5/8" Grade 8 Crosby shackles with the safety bolt for towing. They are rated at 5 tons WLL and 25 ton MBS (safety factor of 5).

@ccw I just want to be sure I understand... Which brand did you test fit and which brand are you purchasing? Green Pin or Crosby?
 
I may not be understanding this correctly but will running the shackles in this orientation create side loading in the event the hitch fails? I use the Crosby shackles as well but run the pin up through the bottom hole.
This orientation will minimize side loading and derating of the capacity. Mounting with the pin through the hitch will derate by 50% per Crosby's website if you are using a bolt type shackle. They do not specifically recommend a screw type for an application like this.
 
No, they don't have different receivers. I had a 2020 F250 Tremor and a 2021 F350 Tremor. Maybe there's a difference between gas and diesel, but it's not as simple as F2 to F3.

In any event, here's how to do it. Works every time with every trailer I've tried:

That's the 3" receiver. Everyone knows the Diesel comes with the 3" and that makes all the difference in the world. Those hooks will bind in the holes of the 2.5" receiver which is standard on all 7.3s.
There are some hooks that will fit the 2.5" hitch without binding but even buying the same hooks from the same source proves there's variability in the hook sizes that means some fit but most don't . It has a lot to do with the size and shape of the retention flipper.
 
@ccw I just want to be sure I understand... Which brand did you test fit and which brand are you purchasing? Green Pin or Crosby?
That's a fantastic catch. I test fit Crosby, purchased Green Pin. For some reason thought the green pin shackles were actually Crosby.

Sent a message to the company to hopefully cancel my order before it's shipped out. If not, might wind up with Green Pin and seeing how they fit. :S
 
I may not be understanding this correctly but will running the shackles in this orientation create side loading in the event the hitch fails? I use the Crosby shackles as well but run the pin up through the bottom hole.

This orientation will minimize side loading and derating of the capacity. Mounting with the pin through the hitch will derate by 50% per Crosby's website if you are using a bolt type shackle. They do not specifically recommend a screw type for an application like this.
Modman is correct, but I want to expand on why. First of all, here's the bow shackle application guide from Crosby which identifies the side loading reductions (page 94; the link starts you at page 92 of a larger document):


When you consider what forces will be experienced by the safety chains during a disconnect, they will range from straight back to straight down to forwards (braking) and every angle in between. As a result, we want the shackle to be able to rotate such that the applied load is straight through the shackle regardless of the angle of the force.

By having the bow of the shackle on the receiver, with no binding, it can rotate freely as forces dictate. This will always result in a straight load other than at truly extreme angles.

By having the pin of the shackle enter into the receiver, the shackle cannot rotate. The pin and shackle body will bind up on the metal of the receiver as it tries to rotate. As a result, anything other than a load straight back will be a side load of varying degrees.

It's worth noting that in the picture I posted, the shackles are hanging with the pin straight down. That just happens to be the natural resting orientation, but the shackle is not stuck in that position. It will rotate such that the pin is straight back without much force.
 
Modman is correct, but I want to expand on why. First of all, here's the bow shackle application guide from Crosby which identifies the side loading reductions (page 94; the link starts you at page 92 of a larger document):


When you consider what forces will be experienced by the safety chains during a disconnect, they will range from straight back to straight down to forwards (braking) and every angle in between. As a result, we want the shackle to be able to rotate such that the applied load is straight through the shackle regardless of the angle of the force.

By having the bow of the shackle on the receiver, with no binding, it can rotate freely as forces dictate. This will always result in a straight load other than at truly extreme angles.

By having the pin of the shackle enter into the receiver, the shackle cannot rotate. The pin and shackle body will bind up on the metal of the receiver as it tries to rotate. As a result, anything other than a load straight back will be a side load of varying degrees.

It's worth noting that in the picture I posted, the shackles are hanging with the pin straight down. That just happens to be the natural resting orientation, but the shackle is not stuck in that position. It will rotate such that the pin is straight back without much force.
That is the best explanation of proper mounting and the dynamics involved with bow shackles in this type application. Angular/side loads would be rare in this application, especially if mounted as you have described. To me this is the beauty of this type shackle, Self aligning when correctly mounted.
 
Modman is correct, but I want to expand on why. First of all, here's the bow shackle application guide from Crosby which identifies the side loading reductions (page 94; the link starts you at page 92 of a larger document):


When you consider what forces will be experienced by the safety chains during a disconnect, they will range from straight back to straight down to forwards (braking) and every angle in between. As a result, we want the shackle to be able to rotate such that the applied load is straight through the shackle regardless of the angle of the force.

By having the bow of the shackle on the receiver, with no binding, it can rotate freely as forces dictate. This will always result in a straight load other than at truly extreme angles.

By having the pin of the shackle enter into the receiver, the shackle cannot rotate. The pin and shackle body will bind up on the metal of the receiver as it tries to rotate. As a result, anything other than a load straight back will be a side load of varying degrees.

It's worth noting that in the picture I posted, the shackles are hanging with the pin straight down. That just happens to be the natural resting orientation, but the shackle is not stuck in that position. It will rotate such that the pin is straight back without much force.
Great explanation! My only addition is regarding centering the load on the pin. Ideally, as stated, you utilize a bolt-type shackle, allow it rotate to align with the load direction, AND employ spacers to keep the load in the center of the shackle pin. This also helps to ensure the load is transferred to the shackle body in tension, and not bending, again minimizing any derate. The last step is fine tuning, but another way to get the full load rating out of the shackle if needed...
 
Great explanation! My only addition is regarding centering the load on the pin. Ideally, as stated, you utilize a bolt-type shackle, allow it rotate to align with the load direction, AND employ spacers to keep the load in the center of the shackle pin. This also helps to ensure the load is transferred to the shackle body in tension, and not bending, again minimizing any derate. The last step is fine tuning, but another way to get the full load rating out of the shackle if needed...
Good point! And that is something I will not be doing personally lol, but it's a great call out.
 
And that is something I will not be doing
WHAT???? Hahaha, neither will I... I think I will have plenty of safety factor by just allowing it to rotate properly.
 
Green Pin shackles came in and they’re perfect! Added bonus over the Crosby shackles of the same size, with the lock nut, from Crosby are the Green Pins are grade 8. I could only find grade 6 for the Crosby, which also came with a lower WLL.

Quick trip to the hardware store got me a couple of linch pins to use in place of the cotter pins they came with. Easier to reuse. Linch pin size is 3/16” - 1 1/4”.

Edit: as noted below, linch pins are not a great choice for this application. Other options are listed by others below.

To save future readers from digging through the thread, here’s the shackles I got, that work with the 2.5” receiver, in 5/8” size:


ECBBFD40-BBF7-4B07-94F6-52D79F4C997D.jpeg
49285E0B-2B2E-4FF9-861D-93F18F9E9748.jpeg
 
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Green Pin shackles came in and they’re perfect! Added bonus over the Crosby shackles of the same size, with the lock nut, from Crosby are the Green Pins are grade 8. I could only find grade 6 for the Crosby, which also came with a lower WLL.

Quick trip to the hardware store got me a couple of linch pins to use in place of the cotter pins they came with. Easier to reuse. Linch pin size is 3/16” - 1 1/4”.

To save future readers from digging through the thread, here’s the shackles I got, that work with the 2.5” receiver, in 5/8” size:


View attachment 41634View attachment 41637
Be careful with those pins. With enough vibration they can open and fall out. I don’t know if that will be an issue with towing but I’ve seen it happen and with what I wouldn’t consider lots of vibration. For rigging purposes that wouldn’t be permitted/legal.
 
Be careful with those pins. With enough vibration they can open and fall out. I don’t know if that will be an issue with towing but I’ve seen it happen and with what I wouldn’t consider lots of vibration. For rigging purposes that wouldn’t be permitted/legal.
Would they open given they have a nut secured with a pin?

In the Crosby application guide it’s exactly this style of shackle they recommend for long-term shackles so that the pin doesn’t need to be checked before every lift; in high vibration use cases; and/or situations where the rigging may rotate around the pin, potentially unscrewing a regular screw pin shackle.
 
Be careful with those pins. With enough vibration they can open and fall out. I don’t know if that will be an issue with towing but I’ve seen it happen and with what I wouldn’t consider lots of vibration. For rigging purposes that wouldn’t be permitted/legal.
Ohhh or are you referring to the Linch pins?

Is there a different style of pin you would recommend that’s easier to use than a cotter pin? Cotter pins are a PITA, to be honest.
 
Ohhh or are you referring to the Linch pins?

Is there a different style of pin you would recommend that’s easier to use than a cotter pin? Cotter pins are a PITA, to be honest.
HD:
Regular:
 
Couple more:


 
HD:
Regular:
Thanks!! Well, will need to be the regular since the HD doesn’t go small enough. But will pick up a pair of those, then, and put the linch pins into the parts bin at home lol.
 
Thanks!! Well, will need to be the regular since the HD doesn’t go small enough. But will pick up a pair of those, then, and put the linch pins into the parts bin at home lol.
Posted more links above. One has a retainer lanyard so you don't lose it. I'd get the lanyard one @ccw

 
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Ohhh or are you referring to the Linch pins?

Is there a different style of pin you would recommend that’s easier to use than a cotter pin? Cotter pins are a PITA, to be honest.
Yeah sorry should’ve been clearer I meant the linch pins. I don’t know of a better alternative to cotter pins but looks like @BroncoHooves has a couple that could work.
 
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I should add that looking at McMaster’s site I can find some things that would probably work and are safe like the ring grip quick release pins but I don’t know if they would be safe in this use case.

You could also maybe use a key ring that’s as thick as possible but still fit. The ring couldn’t fall off like a cotter pin unless damaged but still fairly easy to take off and put on. I’d err on the side of caution with anything that could potentially fall off since you won’t know until it’s too late.

We use those quick releases pins to lock crane hooks closed but the hook cannot be bumped like the shackles could be on the hitch.

 
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