Removeable Alternative to Hammerlocks

Now much convincing needed. Evidently I was right and the split is defined by engine, not badge. Thanks.

You’re arguing for arguments sake. The differentiator is not even the topic of conversation here.

The topic is there is a hitch on the Super Duty’s that has holes too small for most safety chains and the people whose truck have that problem are discussing solutions.

You’re that guy with a diesel in threads about improving 7.3L gas mileage.
 
Looking to have something on-hand to use for trailer safety chains that is easily removable. That latter part is what rules hammerlocks out as, while they are technically removable, they would be a pain to do so on any remotely regular basis. I also don't want to be tied to specific trailers, so that rules out swapping hooks to ones that fit in the dumb receiver design.

My top contender right now is a pair of bow shackles with safety pins, like below, but I'm curious if folks have better options.

Edit: To clarify, bow shackles without a safety pin absolutely aren’t an option for this scenario because of the risk of the pin backing out.


View attachment 34758
This is the style recommended on the Crosby Shackle website vs. the screw pin style. Others have stated that they (screw pin) are sufficient but I have yet to hear of someone with an actual unfortunate experience, all statements have been theoretical, not empirical.

REF: https://www.thecrosbygroup.com/catalog/shackles/application-information/

This is my theory and opinion: installing them with the pin/bolt through the hitch side does not allow for them to self align with the force from the safety chain and creates a risk of lowering the rating of the connection - again per Crosby's assessment and I view them as an authority on the subject. I would only use the style above and only if they can be installed such that the safety chain connection is attached on the bolt and the "loop" end on the hitch. Not sure if this is possible as I have never tried it.

Everyone can make their own risk assessment but I am not willing to be the guinea pig for such a critical joint.
 
You’re arguing for arguments sake. The differentiator is not even the topic of conversation here.

The topic is there is a hitch on the Super Duty’s that has holes too small for most safety chains and the people whose truck have that problem are discussing solutions.

You’re that guy with a diesel in threads about improving 7.3L gas mileage.

Wow. No one is arguing. I asked for clarification and you came in with your typical holier-than-thou attitude.

I couldn't possibly care less about 7.3s or other things I don't want, but somehow I retained enough information them to clarify your misstatement. Seems you type faster than you think.
 
In any event, here's how to do it. Works every time with every trailer I've tried:


Evidently I was right

Wrong
Wow. No one is arguing. I asked for clarification and you came in with your typical holier-than-thou attitude.

I couldn't possibly care less about 7.3s or other things I don't want, but somehow I retained enough information them to clarify your misstatement. Seems you type faster than you think.

What is it with you?

What’s going on in your life that you show up here once a week, crankier than shit, and pick fights?

Holier than thou?

Who showed up in a thread full of people discussing solutions posting a video insisting there’s not even a problem?

In any event, here's how to do it. Works every time with every trailer I've tried:


Go to therapy.
 
Peerless brand (made in Italy) G80 1/2" in black from here.


I think those are the ticket. You would need a 3/4" shackle like this:


To have equivalent load capability (installed correctly without load reduction I will add...)
 
I find that hard to believe because I can hear my shackles unless I bind them. If the windows are open.

Have you driven around with the back window open? Or is it still 100% humidity out there?
I took a 15 inch heavy duty wire tie and tied them together when not in use. No rattle..lol
 
Nothing wrong with using the shackles just keep in mind the load is reduced when the shackles are held at a different angle, i.e. when they will actually be in use saving your trailer. I have shackles on mine but I use them for my small trailer. I changed the hooks on my camper to fit in my hitch.


View attachment 34793
Very good information. If one gets the right size and type like in the picture, I've found they will pull straight and maintain 0 deg. with the safety chains under a load. The round part swivels very easily in the hitch to maintain alignment.
 
I wonder why the shackles make so much damn noise then.

What hammerlocks did you go with?

Peerless brand (made in Italy) G80 1/2" in black from here.

Good place to order from. They also sell through Amazon. I ordered the grade 100 from them. I don’t notice any noise from them but I don’t drive with the windows down often.
 
Ok, I've settled on getting grade 8 Crosby bow shackles for this, like I pictured at the start of this thread. Now I need to figure out sizing.

Does anyone know what size shackles will fit into the safety chain holes in the 2.5" receiver, such that the pin is hanging down? After insertion, they should hang like this:

80-img_3530_7e69161297a9a278556fb7eb9ae0e562268ef785.jpg


(Note that picture is of a 3" receiver despite me being interested in the 2.5", but it shows the shackle orientation I want. Source: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1491035-safety-chain-on-new-ford-hitch-2.html#post17253630.)

Specifically I'm ordering a pair of the grade 8 green pin shackles, just a matter of what size:

 
Too late for OP but for anyone weighing hammerlocks vs. shackles I went with the G80 hammerlocks and frequently drive with the front windows and rear middle window open because my kids like the wind in their hair and don’t hear the hammerlocks banging around at all. I’ve been in trucks that have the bow shackles and they seem to be a lot louder for whatever reason.

In hindsight I’m not sure I needed them. All of my friends have 17-20 250’s and have shackles or hammerlocks because they had issues with trailer chains. I just assumed I’d need them as well but from what I read here being that mine is an F-350 I may have been wrong. Not the end of the world since they were $50, look fine, and don’t make noise but I’ll have to compare next time I’m near a friend’s truck.
 
Does anyone know what size shackles will fit into the safety chain holes in the 2.5" receiver, such that the pin is hanging down?
@ccw this link is for Crosby brand shackles specifically but I believe it provides all the critical dimensions (download the pdf). I can't say it will be 100% transferrable for Green Pin brand but should be a good place to start if you find one in the Crosby catalog that works dimensionally and for the load you require. Dimensions A, B, F will be key:


 
Too late for OP but for anyone weighing hammerlocks vs. shackles I went with the G80 hammerlocks and frequently drive with the front windows and rear middle window open because my kids like the wind in their hair and don’t hear the hammerlocks banging around at all. I’ve been in trucks that have the bow shackles and they seem to be a lot louder for whatever reason.

In hindsight I’m not sure I needed them. All of my friends have 17-20 250’s and have shackles or hammerlocks because they had issues with trailer chains. I just assumed I’d need them as well but from what I read here being that mine is an F-350 I may have been wrong. Not the end of the world since they were $50, look fine, and don’t make noise but I’ll have to compare next time I’m near a friend’s truck.
OP here. :D Technically not too late as I haven't purchased anything yet, though I did just make up my mind to buy something. ;)

You make some great points, though it's worth noting you have the 3" receiver since you have a diesel Tremor. The 3" receiver's front openings for the safety chains are larger than the 2.5", and it's usually folks with the 2.5" receiver who have the most problems.

Personally, I want something removable (i.e. not Hammerlocks) for a few reasons:
  1. Concerned about noise, though that concern has dropped in amount considerably thanks to reports like yours here on the forum.
  2. Looks. IMO they look a little funny hanging down. Since I won't be towing often, I would prefer to not have them hanging down. If I was towing often then they would totally be worth it.
  3. Principle. I just don't like the idea of having something bouncing and dangling around all the time when they aren't needed. I want a solution that is only in effect when needed. Kind of related to this is that maybe they would get in the way at some point. I have no idea how, mind you, but it follows with a principle of flexibility.
  4. The shackles could be used during recovery or for other uses if needed, though I have dedicated recovery shackles as well.
But again, the hammerlocks do make a ton of sense for a lot of folks and I would absolutely recommend them to whoever asked.
 
@ccw this link is for Crosby brand shackles specifically but I believe it provides all the critical dimensions (download the pdf). I can't say it will be 100% transferrable for Green Pin brand but should be a good place to start if you find one in the Crosby catalog that works dimensionally and for the load you require. Dimensions A, B, F will be key:


Oh I was studying dimensions for a while last night lol. Included in the product images for the green pin shackles I linked to they have their own dimensions sheet: https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-k4j...iqrdc60__25756.1626733216.jpg?c=2?imbypass=on

My concern is it's difficult to tell through dimensions whether the shackle will be able to make the turn to face the pin downwards. Also whether it will be able to move freely when in that position.

Also: Shadowfax is still at the body shop so I don't have a truck to physically look at and I'm getting antsy. 🤣
 
Ok, now that I have Shadowfax back I had a chance to test fit both the 5/8" and 3/4" Crosby shackles I have for recovery, see which one fits. Turns out the 5/8" fits perfectly! Can make the turn such that it fits with the bow in the hole and the pin facing out, minimizing any side loading.

Ordering two 5/8" Grade 8 Crosby shackles with the safety bolt for towing. They are rated at 5 tons WLL and 25 ton MBS (safety factor of 5).

 
Ok, I've settled on getting grade 8 Crosby bow shackles for this, like I pictured at the start of this thread. Now I need to figure out sizing.

Does anyone know what size shackles will fit into the safety chain holes in the 2.5" receiver, such that the pin is hanging down? After insertion, they should hang like this:

80-img_3530_7e69161297a9a278556fb7eb9ae0e562268ef785.jpg


(Note that picture is of a 3" receiver despite me being interested in the 2.5", but it shows the shackle orientation I want. Source: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1491035-safety-chain-on-new-ford-hitch-2.html#post17253630.)

Specifically I'm ordering a pair of the grade 8 green pin shackles, just a matter of what size:

I may not be understanding this correctly but will running the shackles in this orientation create side loading in the event the hitch fails? I use the Crosby shackles as well but run the pin up through the bottom hole.
 
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