I've got a 23 and 24 HO and both came from the factory with not enough oil in them. I trusted the dealer to check the first one and knew better on the second one. Both were three quarts low.
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THere's a post floating around here somewhere maybe @BroncOh made it? Might be someone else, that talks about there being a revised dipstick and SSM/TSB; don't quote me but I think the findings was that ALL 6.7 oil pans could accommodate the 15q of the newer truck spec without foaming and churning butter with the crank and that essentially they are all low on oil but have had no history of issues running at 12-13q.I've got a 23 and 24 HO and both came from the factory with not enough oil in them. I trusted the dealer to check the first one and knew better on the second one. Both were three quarts low.
I missed this, sorry. For filters I would stick with FoMoCo while under warranty. They could deny you for a filter if they want to be a PITA and claim external failure some how.I appreciate your reply, very informative. May I ask what you are referring to, as far as bypass filter, assuming you are not referring to the oil filter? That said, what oil filter should I use, the OEM Motorcraft filter?
It's been a little bit since I have owned a diesel (2017), so I am a little rusty. I didn't keep it long, so I am not confident on what I should be doing, at what interval, and what systems (fuel filter, air filter, oil change, etc...).
yes I just put in 15 qt and go on. My 23 has 117K on it now and doesn't seem to use much between changes every 7500 miles.@JTredway : I know there was a HUGE group hug on another forum where they "measured their dipsticks" is some sort of weird seemingly masculine way to resolve the "disparity".
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As luck would have it the 6.7L oil pans across the board are all the same......so the appearance of a "longer dipstick/shorter dipstick" really has no merit to any significant issue or probability thereof.
To which those of us who can pour in motor oil based upon a specific measurement of liquid volume aren't concerned to one's own "dipstick" length.
Since understanding all this I'm now in the camp of "another 1-2 quarts isn't going to hurt"...I'll be adding 2 qts on the next oil change to see if there's any effects. Speaking of...upon a longer HWY run I did think to add 1qt to see what happens...well...no issues.
Even worse is IF we were to add any aftermarket pan to the equation (rated between 1-3 quarts) we "could" add almost an WHOLE GALLON of additional oil. That would be for say 2022MY trucks stated to be spec'd at 13 qts, an additional 2 more to the OE pan, and IF using a pan at 3 qts "over stock"....easily another gallon of motor oil if my basic high school math is right.
yes
I missed this, sorry. For filters I would stick with FoMoCo while under warranty. They could deny you for a filter if they want to be a PITA and claim external failure some how.
The factory filter (any spin on filter in the OEM location) does not filter fine enough to remove soot, it physically can't without becoming a restriction and not allowing full flow. Soot loading is what will be your problem with extended oil changes beyond 12-15k miles. Soot is very abrasive and in low PPM levels not terrible but eventually will become a fine liquid sand paper.
This is where a bypass filter comes into play, various ways they connect but usually they Tee off the oil pressure sensor or sandwich plate. What it does is siphon off a very small amount of oil and runs it through like a one micron filter (sizes may vary but smaller than like the OEM 10-12micron rating) and then returns it to the sump. Like it filters such a small amount to the side it might take 5hours of driving to consider the whole oil system ran through it (I don't remember what it is but its off microscrubbing the oil doing it's own thing) to the point it can remove soot and keep oil it's liquid honey look. At that point as long as TAN, TBN, Soot levels are all within spec you absolutely probably could get 15-20k plus on an oil change. Just a matter of your ROI and what you decide is worth it.
In theory your wear metals will plummet too bc of increased filtration so you might lose some early leading indicators of pending failure.
Run OEM Filters. Run oil samples to determine your comfort level with your oil of choice combined with OEM filter combined with time on oil. Fuel should be drained at the water valve yearly and roughly every 10-15k miles according to spec. I have a DCR so less concerned better for fuel filters while still a priority I'm less stressed.
I have enough oil samples with Triax and FoMoCo filters that I don't have an issue trusting the factory oil minder.
Whatever Ford puts in it. Fourth Super Duty and haven't had a single issue with any of my trucks.
but not getting into wise/unwise discussions
What it does is siphon off a very small amount of oil and runs it through like a one micron filter (sizes may vary but smaller than like the OEM 10-12micron rating) #1 : and then returns it to the sump. #2 Like it filters such a small amount to the side it might take 5hours of driving to consider the whole oil system ran through it (I don't remember what it is but its off microscrubbing the oil doing it's own thing) to the point it can remove soot and keep oil it's liquid honey look.
I run Schaeffer 5-40 in mineOk, I'm looking to be educated - not start a competition.
I've got a brand new, 2025 F-250 KR Tremor with a 6.7 high output engine. I see value in changing the oil and filter at around 1,000 miles and then go to a schedule of every 5,000 - 6,000 miles. I live in central Texas so the temperatures here get to 100+ in the summer and just never below 0 in the winter although I might, very occasionally drive up north (Wyoming, Michigan, New York state, etc.) in the winter. We have a 10,000 lbs. travel trailer so the load on the engine is occasionally significant, but I only pull it 2-3 times per year.
My question is... what oil to use. I'm thinking Motorcraft Full Synthetic Diesel Motor Oil 5W-40 but both the Ford and the O'Reilly Auto Parts websites say that it doesn't "fit" my F-250 Superduty 6.7 Diesel. And, yes, Ford's DIESEL MOTOR OILS MEETING FORD WSS-M2C171-F1 document does list this oil.
Can / would somebody explain what's going on ?
FWIW, I'm not particularly tied to Motorcraft - just thinking that if something were to happen, Ford would have less of an argument to cover it under warranty.
Thanks a lot,
Hunt
I run the EXACT SCHAEFFER 5W40W in my 6.7. Had never heard of it prior to my diesel shop, TRUCK SOURCE DIESEL, San Antonio, Tx recommendation. TSD has been in business nearly 2 decades and is reveared as one of the top tier diesel shops in the nation. I trust them 100%I run Schaeffer 5-40 in mine
TRUCK SOURCE DIESEL, San Antonio, Tx recommendation. TSD has been in business nearly 2 decades and is reveared as one of the top tier diesel shops in the nation. I trust them 100%
Definitely good oil but $47.53 a gallon ouchI run the EXACT SCHAEFFER 5W40W in my 6.7. Had never heard of it prior to my diesel shop, TRUCK SOURCE DIESEL, San Antonio, Tx recommendation. TSD has been in business nearly 2 decades and is reveared as one of the top tier diesel shops in the nation. I trust them 100%
I buy mine at $41.00 gallon at TSD.Definitely good oil but $47.53 a gallon ouch
Well diesel fuel technically is oil so yeah you are burnin oilI use valvoline premium blue 5/40. Napa has it on sale every now and then.
Rotella always makes my diesels smell like they’re burning oil