Not so horny anymore.

Thats an interesting solution! You can save yourself some $$ on the speaker here:

Thank you sir! I figure it would be a good time with that PA from time to time. 😏
 
You'll be perfectly fine wiring them to any upfitter. I have two hooked up to upfitter #1.

You have three options for install:

1. Wire to an upfitter
2. Wire to a button/switch
3. Use a harness that allows for the OEM horn to sound the Moto Horn.

Limitless makes a harness in which you flip an upfitter and can use the OEM horn for the Moto Horn. Flip it back, and the OEM will sound normal.

Important note on the Limitless harness... You need to buy one for each horn you install.

2020 - 2022: https://limitlessautoworksllc.com/c...uper-duty-1/products/horn-integration-harness

2023+: https://limitlessautoworksllc.com/c...oducts/copy-of-train-horn-integration-harness
 
I’ve had a couple of setups now with the double horn moto horn setup as well as several setups with the Kleinn 102-1 air horns. The moto horns are nice and they are loud but the kleinn air horns are just louder and carry further. Both are good but I prefer the Kleinn setup.
 
I’ve had a couple of setups now with the double horn moto horn setup as well as several setups with the Kleinn 102-1 air horns. The moto horns are nice and they are loud but the kleinn air horns are just louder and carry further. Both are good but I prefer the Kleinn setup.
View attachment 196499
How much are the Klein's? For $79, MotoHorn 3.0 is great value.
 
How much are the Klein's? For $79, MotoHorn 3.0 is great value.
I agree. I have a double Motohorn setup on my wife’s Bronco and my dad has them on his as well. It’s a great option, but I still prefer the Kleinns. The horns are $72 but you need a compressor and tank as well. I have always custom built my setup.

https://a.co/d/0cH6pYs

The compressor is normally $120 but it’s not available right now.
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I agree. I have a double Motohorn setup on my wife’s Bronco and my dad has them on his as well. It’s a great option, but I still prefer the Kleinns. The horns are $72 but you need a compressor and tank as well. I have always custom built my setup.

https://a.co/d/0cH6pYs

The compressor is normally $120 but it’s not available right now. View attachment 196529View attachment 196530View attachment 196531View attachment 196532
Very nice. Ease of use is the selling point for me when it comes to MotoHorn. With the Kleinn set-up, once the compressor and/or tank goes, well, there goes your horns (and who knows how long it will be before you can purchase another compressor). The additional wiring and the space that the additional components take up is also a concern for the Kleinn which may hinder others to purchase them. For these reasons, I'm out (sorry, been watching Shark Tank all night 🤪).
 
Very nice. Ease of use is the selling point for me when it comes to MotoHorn. With the Kleinn set-up, once the compressor and/or tank goes, well, there goes your horns (and who knows how long it will be before you can purchase another compressor). The additional wiring and the space that the additional components take up is also a concern for the Kleinn which may hinder others to purchase them. For these reasons, I'm out (sorry, been watching Shark Tank all night 🤪).
Valid point. Motohorn does make a simple setup. I will say though that I’ve been running air horn and Motohorn setups for over 10 years now and the only issue I’ve had with any of them was with the Motohorn setup. I had a compressor go bad and had to purchase a new one as it was not covered. Still it was only $30 and easy to change.
 
What happens when you have friends who are major railroad enthusiasts? Train Horns! (or a close approximation to them). Here is a video of my RR buddy voicing the air horn set he built for me. He started using the same Buell horns that Horn Blasters use but he buys them direct from the manufacturer with the horn tubes not attached. He then cuts and voices each tube to match one of the notes in the K5LLA train horns. Once the notes are correct he sleeves and glues them in. You can skip to 2:37 in the video to hear the final result.

Modifying Buell Horns to K5LLA

In my setup I used the harness from Limitless to toggle the regular horn to the train horn on the steering wheel. I wired it to one of the always on upfitters and I must say it took me by surprise the first time I left the switch armed and got out of the truck with the keys. You think the double honk is annoying with the normal horn? Try 130db of unexpected train horns next to you to wake you up. That is the first thing I am turning off when I do my Forscan changes!
 
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How many amps do these need? If I ordered I’m not sure if I’d wire to horn or use upfitter switches. Just want to make sure if I go upfitter route I use the right switch/amp.

Also thanks for showing me something I didn’t know I wanted…(well I always liked train horns, so I do like these being tankless and not an expensive kit)
They have a relay and simple instructions. I wired 2 of them to the factory horn wired and also left the factory as well. Love them.
 

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Lost my horn probably 10k miles ago in the summer. Noticed it was fainter before it went. Doesn’t work when using the remote or the steering wheel. Fuse was ok. Odd thing is it came back to life the other day when locking it on the coldest day of the year, but died again later that day.
 
It sensed the pressure of being replaced... :ROFLMAO:
 
It sensed the pressure of being replaced... :ROFLMAO:
I’m predictable! I am guilty of some hyper fixation when it comes to making it better!
 
Just received my Whelen 100W speaker (new in box). Now I am waiting on my PA/Horn control unit. I likely will not install this until spring, but I am re-thinking the factory horn button. I was going to go OEM integration, but I may toss a button on the console hidden in front of the cup holder tray (basically in the charger area back wall that faces the HVAC control). It's easy to grab that area while sitting in the driver seat, and it will not be mistakenly pushed. We will see...I already have my Ham mic run through the center console - but I may also add another speaker under the passenger seat at the same time I have the console out - those wires are all fished under the factory rubber flooring.
 
@Optimus🤖 and anyone else that installed two horns. Using two relays you will have two 12 gauge wires going to the upfitter switch. I’m guessing you just wire those two wires together and then connect to the upfitter wire, basically a “Y”? Doing this on a Buddy’s truck and just wanted to confirm as I am a dummy when it comes to wiring. Also, anyone know the color of the stock horn wire to cut to run to the relay? Thanks.
 
COLD WTF it like the surface of the sun in south TX I just took a shower and started sweating drying off . Man I miss the north
 
@Optimus🤖 and anyone else that installed two horns. Using two relays you will have two 12 gauge wires going to the upfitter switch. I’m guessing you just wire those two wires together and then connect to the upfitter wire, basically a “Y”? Doing this on a Buddy’s truck and just wanted to confirm as I am a dummy when it comes to wiring. Also, anyone know the color of the stock horn wire to cut to run to the relay? Thanks.
Hey man! A couple of things to watch out for here to make sure you get this wired up safely.

Each MotoHorn compressor draws about 20 amps, which means two of them will pull a combined 40 amps. Because of that, you have to be careful with where you run those 12-gauge wires:

If you are using the relays properly: The thick 12-gauge wires (Pin 30 on the relays) are meant to handle the heavy electrical load and should be wired directly to the truck's battery. The upfitter switch is only meant to trigger the relays. To do this, you would "Y" the two thinner trigger wires (Pin 86 on the relays) together and connect that single wire to your upfitter switch.

If you are bypassing the battery and powering them directly from the upfitter: You can "Y" the two 12-gauge wires together, but you must connect them to a 40-amp upfitter switch (on a 2024 Super Duty, this is usually Aux 5 or Aux 6). If you use Switches 1-4 (which are typically 25A), both horns going off at once will pop the fuse instantly.

Ford likes to change wire colors like the weather, but the positive wire running directly to the horns (located right behind the grille) is historically Yellow with a Green stripe.

However, to be 100% sure on a '24, the safest bet is to unplug the connector right at the factory horn, hook up a multimeter or test light, and have someone hit the steering wheel horn button. Whichever wire lights up with 12V+ is your positive—that's the one you cut to run to your relay trigger.

Hope this helps and gets the ladies all horny 🤪.
 
Hey man! A couple of things to watch out for here to make sure you get this wired up safely.

Each MotoHorn compressor draws about 20 amps, which means two of them will pull a combined 40 amps. Because of that, you have to be careful with where you run those 12-gauge wires:

If you are using the relays properly: The thick 12-gauge wires (Pin 30 on the relays) are meant to handle the heavy electrical load and should be wired directly to the truck's battery. The upfitter switch is only meant to trigger the relays. To do this, you would "Y" the two thinner trigger wires (Pin 86 on the relays) together and connect that single wire to your upfitter switch.

If you are bypassing the battery and powering them directly from the upfitter: You can "Y" the two 12-gauge wires together, but you must connect them to a 40-amp upfitter switch (on a 2024 Super Duty, this is usually Aux 5 or Aux 6). If you use Switches 1-4 (which are typically 25A), both horns going off at once will pop the fuse instantly.

Ford likes to change wire colors like the weather, but the positive wire running directly to the horns (located right behind the grille) is historically Yellow with a Green stripe.

However, to be 100% sure on a '24, the safest bet is to unplug the connector right at the factory horn, hook up a multimeter or test light, and have someone hit the steering wheel horn button. Whichever wire lights up with 12V+ is your positive—that's the one you cut to run to your relay trigger.

Hope this helps and gets the ladies all horny 🤪.
I'm surprised you would even open a thread that talks about not being horny. Seems like it would be a bit off brand to comment.
 
Hey man! A couple of things to watch out for here to make sure you get this wired up safely.

Each MotoHorn compressor draws about 20 amps, which means two of them will pull a combined 40 amps. Because of that, you have to be careful with where you run those 12-gauge wires:

If you are using the relays properly: The thick 12-gauge wires (Pin 30 on the relays) are meant to handle the heavy electrical load and should be wired directly to the truck's battery. The upfitter switch is only meant to trigger the relays. To do this, you would "Y" the two thinner trigger wires (Pin 86 on the relays) together and connect that single wire to your upfitter switch.

If you are bypassing the battery and powering them directly from the upfitter: You can "Y" the two 12-gauge wires together, but you must connect them to a 40-amp upfitter switch (on a 2024 Super Duty, this is usually Aux 5 or Aux 6). If you use Switches 1-4 (which are typically 25A), both horns going off at once will pop the fuse instantly.

Ford likes to change wire colors like the weather, but the positive wire running directly to the horns (located right behind the grille) is historically Yellow with a Green stripe.

However, to be 100% sure on a '24, the safest bet is to unplug the connector right at the factory horn, hook up a multimeter or test light, and have someone hit the steering wheel horn button. Whichever wire lights up with 12V+ is your positive—that's the one you cut to run to your relay trigger.

Hope this helps and gets the ladies all horny 🤪.
I do appreciate the help but where are you connecting to the battery as I thought the upfitter was supplying the power. This is what I just found and don’t see where it goes to the battery, unless I am missing it. Sorry for the lack of understanding.
 

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