New Super Duty or Raptor for Alaska

I will add the Tremors in any flavor diesel or gas are going to feel “slow” compared to their Super Duty counterpart due to the 35’s. Even with a 4.30 gear you are effectively reducing to 3.90s with that wheel size and then there is the weight. Mine is a BAP so has 34’s and 3.73’s, and still feels ‘snappier’ than a Tremor. I wanted the heavy duty front axle and springs (5590) with plow prep package so Tremor was not an option. You can’t get the heavy duty front suspension on the Tremors, another thing to consider depending on usage.
 
I live in Alberta and travel all over this province and BC. I've only traveled as far north as Fort Saint John, and with our cold climate I'd say Gas for a SD, BUT with a winter front and a spot to plug in for the 6.7, you'd be fine.

Having more payload with the 7.3 is nice, but if you're not putting a camper on then may as well go 6.7 with a S&B tank.

As for a topper I'm biased towards my smartcap vs a fiberglass one. Plus with it being SS, you could even mount a Newport heater in it if you wanted! And when you factor in how to add accessories, the smartcap wins, hands down.
 
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Get gasser, skip the eco-fart joke.
Agreed, 3.5 HO has less torque than the old gen 1 6.2L V8 anywhere below 2,500 RPM per Fords own graphs. Their own adverts say “torque improvement over 2,500 RPM versus previous 6.2L V8 2-Valve engine”. The EcoBoost guys get mad they don’t have 8 cylinder and jump up and down and kick and scream and cry whenever you bring this up. I’ve driven both Raptors, the 6.2 had it all over the EcoBoost HO around town with the 4.10s.
 
compared to their Super Duty counterpart due to the 35’s. Even with a 4.30 gear you are effectively reducing to 3.90s with that wheel tire size

You're a good man and knowledgeable, so please don't take my input the wrong way.

1" of tire is about .2 in gearing, so his 35s over your 34s would be around a 4.10 when you use your axle's 3.73 gearing as a baseline.


When using the Tremor's 4.30 (as a base for comparison), swapping the OEM 35.1" Duratracs for, say, a 37" (37 X 11.5 X R18LT = 36.77") that's a difference of 1.6", yet it only results in an effective axle gearing of 4.10s

(I'm in this conundrum currently: 38s? or 37s on my gas Tremor)
 
(I'm in this conundrum currently: 38s? or 37s on my gas Tremor)
38s obviously. Sort of like not putting gun stickers on it - ya gotta be discreet. People might think you're "packing" if you run little 37s 😜
 
You're a good man and knowledgeable, so please don't take my input the wrong way.

1" of tire is about .2 in gearing, so his 35s over your 34s would be around a 4.10 when you use your axle's 3.73 gearing as a baseline.


When using the Tremor's 4.30 (as a base for comparison), swapping the OEM 35.1" Duratracs for, say, a 37" (37 X 11.5 X R18LT = 36.77") that's a difference of 1.6", yet it only results in an effective axle gearing of 4.10s

(I'm in this conundrum currently: 38s? or 37s on my gas Tremor)
I was using non BAP 33s as a baseline but my post wasn’t written in a way that coveys that. Yes you are correct.
 
^ ^ ^ Ah hah! See! You were right all along! 😝 (y)🏁




McE: "38s obviously. Sort of like not putting gun stickers on it - ya gotta be discreet. People might think you're "packing" if you run little 37s 😜"


lmao!

Weyllll... thank you, first of all, for your support!

I'm not interested in disassembling my front suspension for raising my front ride height; not yet, anyway.

My wife is a smaller woman, and while she remains physically fit, the step up onto the Tremor running boards is just high enough. I can go another 3/4" but not 1.5"+ higher, and I don't want to do power running boards, YET.

I have a feelin' that when it's time to refresh steering parts and perhaps kingpins is when I'll look at a lift and then 38s, and then power running boards (if they could tuck up under the Tremor boards that would be the ne plus ultra, baby! yeeeah). We do love them dual patio decks on either side of the cab.

:ROFLMAO:

As much as I have flamed the Ridge Grapper tire, it remains the only decent option in a 37 X 11.5 X 18, so that's more than likely what I'll go with. Too, it's just .2 of my axle gearing taller, from the 4.30s to an effective 4.10 which I can live with.
 
As much as I have flamed the Ridge Grapper tire, it remains the only decent option in a 37 X 11.5 X 18, so that's more than likely what I'll go with.
In all seriousness, I put a set of Ridge Grapplers in 315/70R17 on my leveled F-150 back in December of 2020. They're still on it today. I was surprised at how well they did in snow after all I'd heard about them. Not ideal, but I pushed snow with the bumper a few times and never got stuck. In mud, they pack up in about .07 seconds unless you keep your wheelspeed up. GREAT in sand and loose, loamy dirt.

As long as you understand the tire’s limitations - and based on my understanding of your intended use case - I doubt you’d be disappointed. I know you don't want a super-aggressive-looking tire, so you're probably already aware of this, but they have two different sidewall designs, one of which is a little more tame. Not much, but a little.
 
I vote 7.3 Super Duty with a transfer tank or larger midship tank. Or just get a longbed with the stock 48gal tank.
 
Boy I'm just seeing this, must have had too much Tremor Reserve III over the weekend, today is my Monday. Modern diesels I've never had trouble with starting cold. My K5 with the 6.2 I got started one warm -35 day in Fairbanks without being plugged in. I had a manual glowplug controller with the military 24v starting system. Held that glow plug button down while cranking and it did start, that was basically unheard of back then for an unplugged/not garaged diesel. Today they just start. The 7.3 is what I ordered when I bought my SD. It obviously starts no problem in the winter it's a good truck. Diesel def will freeze between starts if that's a concern. There are actually a couple stations now though with seasonal def pumps. We have taken one round trip to the L48 and back, and plan to do another. Coming back home last summer I was getting 4.7mpg hand calculated towing the trailer and we didn't run out of fuel. There's enough gas around to make it without worrying if you take the opportunity to fill up. One of the 58 gallon tanks would be phenomenal for towing, the idea does keep rattling around the brain. It would be cool to get a Tremor glacier run in this winter if you're around come Jan/Feb.
 
Boy I'm just seeing this, must have had too much Tremor Reserve III over the weekend, today is my Monday. Modern diesels I've never had trouble with starting cold. My K5 with the 6.2 I got started one warm -35 day in Fairbanks without being plugged in. I had a manual glowplug controller with the military 24v starting system. Held that glow plug button down while cranking and it did start, that was basically unheard of back then for an unplugged/not garaged diesel. Today they just start. The 7.3 is what I ordered when I bought my SD. It obviously starts no problem in the winter it's a good truck. Diesel def will freeze between starts if that's a concern. There are actually a couple stations now though with seasonal def pumps. We have taken one round trip to the L48 and back, and plan to do another. Coming back home last summer I was getting 4.7mpg hand calculated towing the trailer and we didn't run out of fuel. There's enough gas around to make it without worrying if you take the opportunity to fill up. One of the 58 gallon tanks would be phenomenal for towing, the idea does keep rattling around the brain. It would be cool to get a Tremor glacier run in this winter if you're around come Jan/Feb.
I knew you up to no good! 🤪 7.3 for the win!
 
I lived in Alaska. Get the regular Super Duty with the 6.7. Add a truck shell (ARE, Leer or Snugtop), rack or bars on top of that to carry more gear. The road to is not as bad as most make it out to be. Have the wheel wells LineX and anything else you don't want rock chipped. You are a Marine - nuff said about your grit and survival skills. Bring fishing gear. Can't bring guns through Canada. Buy a few nice ones when you hit Fairbanks. Best of luck
I think hand guns such as .38, .357 revolvers can be legally transported through Canada if proper forms and rules are adhered to. Not a cake walk regarding paperwork, however.
 
I think hand guns such as .38, .357 revolvers can be legally transported through Canada if proper forms and rules are adhered to. Not a cake walk regarding paperwork, however.
38 or 357...like shootin a grizzley with a BB gun!😅🤣
 
38 or 357...like shootin a grizzley with a BB gun!😅🤣
Yea, no poop, eh? I'm not positive on that remark but do know they frown and most likely refuse to allow double stack semi-autos for sure. maybe a S&W 500 revolver would be the ticket, eh? "wink"
 
Yea, no poop, eh? I'm not positive on that remark but do know they frown and most likely refuse to allow double stack semi-autos for sure. maybe a S&W 500 revolver would be the ticket, eh? "wink"
My personnal handgun hunting rig is a S&W 460 or a 454 Casull. They'll take anything in North America up to about 300-350 yards. But those crazy Canucks would prob consider them military grade arty!🤣😅
 
My personnal handgun hunting rig is a S&W 460 or a 454 Casull. They'll take anything in North America up to about 300-350 yards. But those crazy Canucks would prob consider them military grade arty!🤣😅
Most likely the same with a DE, eh?
 
^ ^ ^ True story, but there's still few things in life better than some quiet time pondering any latest "What caliber for bear?" threads.

:ROFLMAO:


But! and to your point, my good man, I rarely travel without my short, light and very handy Marlin 1895GS, an 18.5" barrel, stainless Model 1895 in which I have loaded 405-grain slugs, a dose of 5744 to 1200 fps for general short range work. That little carbine is a peach.
 
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