Midland GMRS Radio Center Console Installation?

Dang, I wanted it to go under the seat ..😑
 
I didn’t take a photo. I spliced the adapter to the connector provided by Midland. I cut them to about 6” each, then I soldered the wires together. I used this adapter. It has a tiny red light when there is power which I like the visual indicator.

For some reason I was thinking that since I rarely see anyone using the lighter plug that it didn't provide enough amps from the fuse box.
 
For some reason I was thinking that since I rarely see anyone using the lighter plug that it didn't provide enough amps from the fuse box.
Others have been using this circuit much longer than I have. I didn’t think 10amps max was going to be a problem. So far no issues. The adapter has a 15amp fuse in it as a precaution.
 
Others have been using this circuit much longer than I have. I didn’t think 10amps max was going to be a problem. So far no issues. The adapter has a 15amp fuse in it as a precaution.
That's good to hear.
 
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I found this on Midland's web page:

MXT90/MXT105
  • Standby current: 200 mA max, 150 mA typical
  • Receive current, max audio: 900 mA max, 600 mA typical
  • Transmit current, high power: 1.65 A max, 1.5 A typical
  • Transmit current, low power: 0.9 A max, 0.75 A typical
  • Fuse: 2 A
  • Power wiring: 20 AWG up to 12 ft, 18 AWG for longer runs
MXT115
  • Standby current: 300 mA max, 200 mA typical
  • Receive current, max audio: 900 mA max, 600 mA typical
  • Transmit current, high power: 3 A max, 2.8 A typical
  • Transmit current, low power: 1.75 A max, 1.5 A typical
  • Fuse: 5 A
  • Power wiring: 18 AWG up to 12 ft, 116 AWG for longer runs
MXT275
  • Standby current: 300 mA max, 220 mA typical
  • Receive current, max audio: 900 mA max, 650 mA typical
  • Transmit current, high power: 3.2 A max, 2.9 A typical
  • Transmit current, low power: 1.75 A max, 1.5 A typical
  • Fuse: 5 A
  • Power wiring: 18 AWG up to 12 ft, 16 AWG for longer runs
MXT400 (discontinued)
  • Standby current: 300 mA max, 250 mA typical
  • Receive current, rated audio: 600 mA max, 550 mA typical
  • Transmit current, high power: 10 A max, 8 A typical
  • Transmit current, mid power: 7 A max, 5 A typical
  • Transmit current, low power: 3.5 A max, 2.5 A typical\
  • Fuse: 15 A
  • Power wiring: 14 AWG up to 10 ft, 12 AWG for longer runs
MXT500
  • Standby current: 300 mA max, 250 mA typical
  • Receive current, rated audio: 600 mA max. 550 mA typical
  • Transmit current, high power: 10 A max, 8.5 A typical
  • Transmit current, mid power: 7 A max, 5.2 A typical
  • Transmit current, low power: 3.5 A max, 2.5 A typical
  • Fuse: 15 A
  • Power wiring: 14 AWG up to 10 ft, 12 AWG for longer runs
MXT575
  • Standby current: 300 mA max, 250 mA typical
  • Receive current, max audio: 900 mA max. 650 mA typical
  • Transmit current, high power: 10 A max, 8.5 A typical
  • Transmit current, low power: 3.5 A max, 2.5 A typical
  • Fuse: 15 A
  • Power wiring: 14 AWG up to 10 ft, 12 AWG for longer runs
 
I found this searching:

IMG_4864.webp
I suspected 15-20 amp rating, this gives me more confidence.
Cheers 🍻
 
It’s good to know that outlet in the console supports 20A I will be installing both GMRS and HAM radios at some point. The one concern I have using power from the console is noise. From what I understand, to keep your radio from picking up unwanted noise from all the on board electronics you need to run power directly to one of the batteries. The battery will act as a noise filter. Not having done my mobile radio install yet I can’t comment on how electrically noisy our trucks are, but I thought I’d pass this on.
 
It’s good to know that outlet in the console supports 20A I will be installing both GMRS and HAM radios at some point. The one concern I have using power from the console is noise. From what I understand, to keep your radio from picking up unwanted noise from all the on board electronics you need to run power directly to one of the batteries. The battery will act as a noise filter. Not having done my mobile radio install yet I can’t comment on how electrically noisy our trucks are, but I thought I’d pass this on.
Yes one of the reasons to go right back tot he battery is because or noise like alternator or other signal noise. I think the difference now in newer vehicles they have alternators producing cleaner power then before because of all the electronics so you can most likely get away with using the lighter plug or another power source without an issuue as long as the circuit is not overloaded. I was going to put mine in the console but think since my ham has a detachable face going to put it behind the seat and the face place in the console and see if i can steal 12 volts from before the power inverter. Since in my 24 they deleted the cigarette style plug and just have 2 usb in it.
 
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