Help please with a weight distributing hitch? Local dealer pissed me off so I want to buy online.

[Modman]

Our trailer is stupid tall, I have it on the highest setting of my 10" drop adjustable hitch.

My 18' aluminum v-nose I run it at the lowest setting.

I have ZERO sway with that trailer, but it doesn't weigh shit

We have a similar sized enclosed cargo trailer (20') and don't use any weight distribution and it's fine. It's aluminum and under 3k empty. It's not as tall or long or heavy as our TT, though. The difference in "sail" effect is real!

 

[DJRobbie]

I used to tow a trailer about the same size as yours. I had a Husky WD hitch rated at 12000 lbs. I used to raise my power tongue jack and take weight off the truck before securing my chains. It seemed to work better for me.

 

[xrocket21]

Ended up ordering this one, thanks for the help, boys

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Blue-Ox/BLU54TR.html

 

[DJRobbie]

That is a nice looking hitch. I like the way the chains can be tightened by a wrench. Let us know how this works out.

 

[Modman]

I used to tow a trailer about the same size as yours. I had a Husky WD hitch rated at 12000 lbs. I used to raise my power tongue jack and take weight off the truck before securing my chains. It seemed to work better for me.

I do the same with my spring bars. Makes it much easier to install and remove!

 

[Legmar]

Glad you found something to buy. One more tip I’ll toss out there is that proper adjustment of your WDH is super important and may take a little adjustment after some driving. Also, the height selection of your hitch ball is important to make sure that the trailer is riding level and that your truck is level after connecting the weight distribution bars. (In other words, if your trailer is wayyyy too high before you drop it on the ball, then it’ll want to sag more than necessary until the trailer springs catch the weight) I’ve seen setups where the tension on the bars is “appropriate” but the ball position on the hitch was wrong. There are a lot of variables to consider. I used to tow my 7,000 pound RV with a fully loaded fresh water tank and tons of items for multiple week trips, and it didn’t sway even at fast highway speeds. Trust your instincts. If it doesn’t feel right or your steering feels off, then it probably is. Don’t give up and keep dialing things in. Also, in a lot of cases, if it “looks good” it will tow well. If it “looks off” then it’ll likely tow poorly. Let us know how it goes!

 

[CRJDOC]

I used the Curt Tru Track 17500 but had to upgrade the shank to the 2.5", my TT weights about 9,000 on the Cat Scales with 1200 on the tongue. Dropped about 3/4"

 

[Divinggumby]

Get the weigh safe true tow or bulletproof 6” drop with the WDH adapter and an equalizer without a shank. I had the weigh safe with the 2” and 2.5” shank but for my 3” I had to go with the bulletproof and equalizer. Both you can drop the tailgate with.

 

[TremorHopeful]

Not cheap but I like to throw the propride 3p idea out there. When I had a bumper pull that was the only wdh I felt truly made a difference.

 

[So Cal Lee]

Get a weight distribution hitch that also has a sway control built into the hitch. Many brands offer this feature.

 

[mi24tremor]

I can second that the ProPride 3P is the best hitch I’ve used.

We bought a 41’ 1955 Spartan trailer in Homestead FL, and before I drove down in my Excursion (pre-Tremor days) to tow it back to Michigan, I bought a Propride 3P to take with me in case I needed it. By the time we got the trailer road worthy, weighed and a temp tag registered, I didn’t have time to install the Propride hitch. We got on the road heading across Alligator Alley towards Naples for the night. That trip across Alligator Alley was the most challenging ever… any vehicle, expecially trucks passing me in the hammer lane, even at slow speeds would nearly push me off the road! Mind you, I’ve recently rebuilt the front suspension of my 79K mile 6.0L Excursion with new balljoints and steering linkage, new RedHead gearbox and all new F250 Leaf Springs, it was tight and handled great empty, so it wasn’t the truck.

The next morning in the Naples hotel parking lot, I installed the ProPride Hitch and I honestly couldn’t believe the difference. It went from questioning whether I was going to get this thing home, to actually pleasant to pull, even at 80 MPH through he mountains! That hitch literally removed all sway!!

In comparison to that, I also have a 26’ enclosed car hauler, which I’ve pulled both w/ no WDH, and also with a Curt 17501. Twice I pulled it using the Curt with the same Excursion with two touring Harley’s loaded in it from Michigan to Tennessee, and although that Curt hitch helped compared to no WDH, even that smaller 26’ trailer still push the Excursion w/ Curt on occasion when passed by trucks. I can honestly say the 41’ Spartan with Propride 3P pulled night and day better that my 26’ with Curt did. The Propride is certainly much more $$, but it absolutely removed all sway. I’ve since put the Propride on the 26’ (also no sway now) and sold the Curt, and personally would not go back to a trunnion (friction) type anti sway hitch after the ProPride.

 

[prioinv]

I talked with BulletProof Hitches before deciding on my setup with them. According to my research so far, WDH hitches are almost useless for our trucks, especially if you get airbags. They are designed to distribute the weight for half ton trucks that are pushing their tongue weight limits (hence the name). WDH alone offer very little sway control - however sway control kits help with exactly that. Long story short, i have a traditional hitch with the sway control balls added on, and then added sway control bars that easily install onto the trailer. Has worked great for me so far:

BulletProof Sway Control System

When towing large trailers, it is possible to experience trailer sway from wind, passing vehicles and uneven road surfaces. To prevent the trailer from swaying, BulletProof Hitches offers a sway control system that connects from the sway control ball mount of the hitch to the front of the...

www.bulletproofhitches.com

BulletProof Heavy/Extreme Duty Sway Control Ball Mount

In order to equip your vehicle with a full sway control system a mounting point for the sway control bar must be attached to the hitch. With the BulletProof Sway Control Ball Mount you can mount a sway control system between your hitch and your trailer. This is useful in reducing sway on large...

www.bulletproofhitches.com

This intrigues me. My weighsafe truetow broke AGAIN this weekend. I think I’ve had it with that thing and now I’m looking to replace it. I think I only need to reduce sway instead of push weight to the front.

Are there alternatives to drilling into the frame to attach that sway arm? I suppose I can be really committed and have it welded on.

 

[Modman]

My weighsafe truetow broke AGAIN this weekend

What broke on your hitch? I had one of those plastic spacers break the first year but they replaced it and I haven't had any repeat issues.

 

[gmoon]

After using a Shockerhitch for the last (almost) year, we are totally sold on an air ride hitch. It completelty changed towing for us. Shocker hitch is a family owned business, with all made in the USA products and decades of experience.

While our website shows their Standard & HD air hitches, they do have a weight distribution specific model, which we can source as well, with a Tremor forum member discount.

Shocker Hitch Weight Distribution hitch


Let us know if you want help sourcing!

G

 

[shermanator2]

This intrigues me. My weighsafe truetow broke AGAIN this weekend. I think I’ve had it with that thing and now I’m looking to replace it. I think I only need to reduce sway instead of push weight to the front.

Are there alternatives to drilling into the frame to attach that sway arm? I suppose I can be really committed and have it welded on.

My question is why is your trailer swaying in the first place? Sway control (sway damping) is a band-aid for other set up problems. If you have a sway problem but don't need weight distribution, maybe you do not have enough tongue weight. What does your trailer weigh (on a scale, not what the salesman told you) and what does the Weighsafe say you tongue weight is?

 

[prioinv]

My question is why is your trailer swaying in the first place? Sway control (sway damping) is a band-aid for other set up problems. If you have a sway problem but don't need weight distribution, maybe you do not have enough tongue weight. What does your trailer weigh (on a scale, not what the salesman told you) and what does the Weighsafe say you tongue weight is?

I have a scale ticket for a weekend run (so not much onboard. No water) vs a scale ticket of my truck in normal “empty state” as a comparison.

The trailer was 7900lbs. The drive axle on the truck went from 4340 -> 6220 - but that’s also with gear in the truck. The weigh safe ball scale on that trip read just shy of 1200.

As for shifting weight to the front, in this case the front axle on the truck barely moved, even when I had the bars and the head adjusted to the right angle (or so I thought from the weighsafe adjustmwnt). It went from 4820 -> 4860.

This truck + trailer setup on a non-WDH has gotten me several places - but the occasional wind gust is felt. I don’t really mind it so much - but the trailer is more live and moving that with the weighsafe on. There’s also the wife component here. She doesn’t like it when we are on the road without it.

My whole thinking now is that 1200 tongue weight isn’t worth the WDH pains and I really just want a friction bar setup to control a bit of sway. I am also happy imagining not dealing with the limitations and the pain of getting the bars on/off.

Oh, for context, our trips with the trailer have been anywhere between local in-town and 4500 miles round trip.

 

[prioinv]

What broke on your hitch? I had one of those plastic spacers break the first year but they replaced it and I haven't had any repeat issues.

I’ve had the bolts holding the frame L-bracket sheer three times. This last time I actually lost the L-bracket somewhere in west Texas.

I’ve lost the weight reading on the head unit a couple times. Seems to be an annual thing for me now to disassemble, clean, rebuild, and lube that thing. I now worry about dust and water as both have fouled it up.

Also, the head reading, even when I think it’s in clean good shape, isn’t consistent. Without consistency I can’t really dial in the angle (control nut on the top) correct based on the “true weight” (or whatever they call it). So I do what I’m supposed to, then eyeball it.

When the thing was new it all worked great. I took the time to measure and hook it up correctly. The truck was clearly benefitting from the weight distribution. The tow was better. Now with the issues and my airbags I think maybe I just need something simple.

 

[Monoman]

First - get it on some scales so you accurately know what your axle and tongue weights are when setup for travel. Plenty of people have solved sway issues once they moved some of their stuff around. I have no doubt the WD hitch will make a difference.

FWIW our MY22 Tremor swayed a bit a few times while towing our 27' RV (similar weight as yours). Our MY23 (not a Tremor) doesn't seem to have that same sway. IIRC the Tremors don't have a rear sway bar. Perhaps it is a combination of the tires and suspension differences with the Tremors.

 

[Explorerinil]

Look hard at a gen y hitch, you will be impressed with the ride quality your truck and trailer have. You need a 2.5 inch hitch.

 

[prioinv]

Look hard at a gen y hitch, you will be impressed with the ride quality your truck and trailer have. You need a 2.5 inch hitch.

Are you referring to the torsion-flex one?