Has anyone done an exhaust cutout wired to their upfitter switches on their 7.3?

@paularchibald I have been considering using one relay to do just that and just wire both sides of the momentary switch to the same ground. I think the brain knows if it’s open or closed so if you ground them both at the same time I’m curious if the brain will automatically pick the correct one.
 
@Cory where tf were you when I was trying to pick this thing out. But it’s super cool and in that spot you get throat accelerating and loud when you want to be but just cruising it sounds almost like it’s unmodified I’m really pleased. I’m gonna keep dickering with it and will report back as I make changes and tweaks.
You're welcome! You can always swap to a vacuum type if this electronic one fails some day. When my truck shows up I'm going to have to decide between custom exhaust or cut out. Thanks for forging the path forward for all of us!
 
You're welcome! You can always swap to a vacuum type if this electronic one fails some day. When my truck shows up I'm going to have to decide between custom exhaust or cut out. Thanks for forging the path forward for all of us!
When I get the 100% solution ill post a parts list and a how to instructions for what I did. I’m not a big content creation guy so no video but I can write step by step lol. If you have the dough I’d go full custom stainless from the heads all the way back cats and all, but that’s an expensive endeavor and what I want to do I just wanted to make it loud for now for a few hundo and some ass pain.
Paging @ccw can you explain to me how this time delay relay works shoot me a pm.
 
Paging @ccw can you explain to me how this time delay relay works shoot me a pm.
If you want a PM I can, but I’m a fan of keeping the discussion public so others can learn as well. Also lets me post images easily. :)

Caveat: I’ve literally never used the product I linked to above or anything like it. I found it with a quick search and seemed to fit the bill.

Based on what I read, at its most basic, it works like a normal relay - apply power to the control circuit, it closes the contacts on the load circuit - but after a short period of time, it opens the load side back up, even if power is still being applied to the control.

Now, there’s an interesting mode that relay has:

TDR-MRF: Momentary operation upon both rising and falling edges of trigger

In my head, this is the ideal mode as you can use a single timed relay along with two regular relays to simulate the factory momentary switch with your upfitter. Here’s how (again, in my head).

Your upfitter switch is connected to:
  • Time-delay relay trigger input.
  • Normally open control circuit of relay 1.
  • Normally closed control circuit of relay 2.
The time delay relay load/output is connected to the load side of both Relay 1 and Relay 2.

Relay 1 (normally open) is wired to the “On” side of the brain box.

Relay 2 (normally closed) is wired to the “Off” side of the brain box.

Here’s what happens when you flip the upfitter switch on:
  1. Power is sent to trigger the time delay relay. The time delay relay, seeing the trigger, will complete the load circuit for the programmed amount of time, then open it. This will ground out the load side of Relay 1 and Relay 2.
  2. At the same time as 1, Relay 1 (normally open) will get power from the upfitter switch. As a result, it will complete its load circuit, completing the circuit from the time delay relay to the “On” wire of the brain box.
  3. At the same time as 1 and 2, Relay 2 (normally closed) will get power from the upfitter switch. As a result, it will break its load circuit, ensuring the circuit to the “Off” wire on the brain box isn’t completed.
After the programmed delay, the time delay relay will break the circuit, resulting in no signal being sent to the brain box.

Note that Relay 1 and Relay 2 being wired to opposing normally open and closed means they can’t be active at the same time, preventing both On and Off signals from being sent to the brain box simultaneously.

When you turn the upfitter switch off, here’s what happens:
  1. The time delay relay loses trigger power. Because of the mode it’s in, it completes the load circuit for the programmed amount of time like before.
  2. At the same time as 1, Relay 1 (normally open) loses power from the upfitter on its control side and opens the circuit to the “On” wire on the brain box.
  3. At the same time as 1 and 2, Relay 2 (normally closed) loses power from the upfitter on its control side and closes the circuit to the “Off” wire on the brain box.
Because of the way this is setup, everything should inherently stay in sync. If the upfitter switch is “On” and you turn the truck off, the switch will lose power and the exhaust valve will close. But when you turn the truck back on the switch will regain power and the valve will open back up - no input from you required.

Something else worth noting: since you want to switch ground, not positive, you need to get the N variant of the time delay relay. They call that out on their page, but figure it’s worth calling out here.

Here's a quick wiring diagram I threw together to represent what I've described above. It doesn't include literally all wires involved, but the critical ones for my description:

1644125529763.png
 
If you want a PM I can, but I’m a fan of keeping the discussion public so others can learn as well. Also lets me post images easily. :)

Caveat: I’ve literally never used the product I linked to above or anything like it. I found it with a quick search and seemed to fit the bill.

Based on what I read, at its most basic, it works like a normal relay - apply power to the control circuit, it closes the contacts on the load circuit - but after a short period of time, it opens the load side back up, even if power is still being applied to the control.

Now, there’s an interesting mode that relay has:



In my head, this is the ideal mode as you can use a single timed relay along with two regular relays to simulate the factory momentary switch with your upfitter. Here’s how (again, in my head).

Your upfitter switch is connected to:
  • Time-delay relay trigger input.
  • Normally open control circuit of relay 1.
  • Normally closed control circuit of relay 2.
The time delay relay load/output is connected to the load side of both Relay 1 and Relay 2.

Relay 1 (normally open) is wired to the “On” side of the brain box.

Relay 2 (normally closed) is wired to the “Off” side of the brain box.

Here’s what happens when you flip the upfitter switch on:
  1. Power is sent to trigger the time delay relay. The time delay relay, seeing the trigger, will complete the load circuit for the programmed amount of time, then open it. This will ground out the load side of Relay 1 and Relay 2.
  2. At the same time as 1, Relay 1 (normally open) will get power from the upfitter switch. As a result, it will complete its load circuit, completing the circuit from the time delay relay to the “On” wire of the brain box.
  3. At the same time as 1 and 2, Relay 2 (normally closed) will get power from the upfitter switch. As a result, it will break its load circuit, ensuring the circuit to the “Off” wire on the brain box isn’t completed.
After the programmed delay, the time delay relay will break the circuit, resulting in no signal being sent to the brain box.

Note that Relay 1 and Relay 2 being wired to opposing normally open and closed means they can’t be active at the same time, preventing both On and Off signals from being sent to the brain box simultaneously.

When you turn the upfitter switch off, here’s what happens:
  1. The time delay relay loses trigger power. Because of the mode it’s in, it completes the load circuit for the programmed amount of time like before.
  2. At the same time as 1, Relay 1 (normally open) loses power from the upfitter on its control side and opens the circuit to the “On” wire on the brain box.
  3. At the same time as 1 and 2, Relay 2 (normally closed) loses power from the upfitter on its control side and closes the circuit to the “Off” wire on the brain box.
Because of the way this is setup, everything should inherently stay in sync. If the upfitter switch is “On” and you turn the truck off, the switch will lose power and the exhaust valve will close. But when you turn the truck back on the switch will regain power and the valve will open back up - no input from you required.

Something else worth noting: since you want to switch ground, not positive, you need to get the N variant of the time delay relay. They call that out on their page, but figure it’s worth calling out here.

Here's a quick wiring diagram I threw together to represent what I've described above. It doesn't include literally all wires involved, but the critical ones for my description:

View attachment 46019
Something else worth noting: to ensure the regular relays have fully switched before the Time Delay Relay completes the circuit - to guarantee you don't send signals to "On" and "Off" simultaneously to the brain box - you could set an "On" delay in the time delay relay. It supports this and you could keep it quite short. Just enough to make sure the relays have time to work.
 
Something else worth noting: to ensure the regular relays have fully switched before the Time Delay Relay completes the circuit - to guarantee you don't send signals to "On" and "Off" simultaneously to the brain box - you could set an "On" delay in the time delay relay. It supports this and you could keep it quite short. Just enough to make sure the relays have time to work.
Ok it’s too late for me to process this. I will read tomorrow digest and post thoughts. I’m cool with not pm just didn’t necessarily want to clutter this any more than I already have.
 
Update 5?
Title: “I think there is still a 1 switch solution. However I have reached a 2 switch solution that works, and is kind of fun.”
I will provide a wiring diagram when I get a chance to draw it and some pictures when I rewire it so it doesn’t look like shit.
Anyway here goes.
Power to brain brain to ground. Signal wire to cutout drug all the way back. Now the good part. The factory switch works off a pulse of ground to one side or the other so I connected both grounds to a 2 position relay to upfitter 1. However the constant ground to the brain confused it after 2 or so cycles. So I spliced a single relay into the ground connection of the 2 position relay to upfitter 2 so I can just disconnect the ground all together to not confuse the brain. That probably makes no sense.
So switch sequence goes like this. 1&2 on shut 2 off right away do whatever you want with switch 1. If switch 1 is left on Then switch 1 off and just flick 2 on and back off and it turns the cut off off.
Make sense? Didn’t think so… but I could show you diagram will come at some point.
 
Update 5?
Title: “I think there is still a 1 switch solution. However I have reached a 2 switch solution that works, and is kind of fun.”
I will provide a wiring diagram when I get a chance to draw it and some pictures when I rewire it so it doesn’t look like shit.
Anyway here goes.
Power to brain brain to ground. Signal wire to cutout drug all the way back. Now the good part. The factory switch works off a pulse of ground to one side or the other so I connected both grounds to a 2 position relay to upfitter 1. However the constant ground to the brain confused it after 2 or so cycles. So I spliced a single relay into the ground connection of the 2 position relay to upfitter 2 so I can just disconnect the ground all together to not confuse the brain. That probably makes no sense.
So switch sequence goes like this. 1&2 on shut 2 off right away do whatever you want with switch 1. If switch 1 is left on Then switch 1 off and just flick 2 on and back off and it turns the cut off off.
Make sense? Didn’t think so… but I could show you diagram will come at some point.
Honestly that makes a lot of sense to me! Neat! Glad you have a working solution.
 

I have one of these for my kill switch setup. Can be programmed for many different functions. I believe you can program for it to turn on for a set time with a rising edge voltage then off after a programmed time, then on again with dropped voltage for a programmed time. Lots of programming functionality, but you can read about it on their website. Might be what you are looking for.
 

I have one of these for my kill switch setup. Can be programmed for many different functions. I believe you can program for it to turn on for a set time with a rising edge voltage then off after a programmed time, then on again with dropped voltage for a programmed time. Lots of programming functionality, but you can read about it on their website. Might be what you are looking for.
Haven’t really looked at their website since getting my timer relay, but now I see they actually sell a universal one- touch exhaust cutout control..
 
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