Ground Location on Frame Near Bed?

[legmar]

Hey guys, I’m installing a BlueSea Safety Hub 150 power distribution block in the bed of my truck. I‘ve already run a 1/0 AWG positive/power cable from the passenger-side battery to the bed of the truck. Next, I’m planning to run a negative/ground cable to the frame near the distribution block. I’m having a hard time finding a good location to use as the ground.

I noticed a bolt on the frame directly below the holes in the front of the bed where I’ll be passing down the negative wire. Does anyone know if this bolt in the picture would be a suitable ground? If not, any suggestions for a grounding point on the frame that’s close to this location? Thanks!

 

[Canyon Trekker]

Though that bolt is at ground potential, it is conducting through a clip on the plate. The plate is secured by three more bolts in clips, all attached to a painted frame. This may not be an ideal ground unless you remove the paint. 150 amps is a tall order to run back to the bed, the 1/0-gauge wire is sufficient, but I personally would run another wire to the battery for ground if I thought I may draw total rated current of 150 amps. The chassis is steel, but the truck panels are aluminum all interconnected through small jumper wires throughout.
I too wanted power in the bed and also power for an amplifier, so I hooked up a couple of spots for power including the bed, and behind the rear seat. I used a much smaller distribution of only 40- and 60-amp capacity. For the amplifier circuit I used a BlueSea (100 amp) for the circuit.

For the bed, I am only using it for camping accessories (not a separate camper) and will likely not draw more than 10-20 amps at any given time in the bed. So, for distribution, I used the upfitter wire AUX 5 or 6 and made them "always hot" when the switch is on. As an alternate, I use a separate battery for power without using the truck battery by using a boat battery switch. (I made quite an elaborate system.) The stud to the right of the switch is my ground point.

 

[legmar]

Though that bolt is at ground potential, it is conducting through a clip on the plate. The plate is secured by three more bolts in clips, all attached to a painted frame. This may not be an ideal ground unless you remove the paint. 150 amps is a tall order to run back to the bed, the 1/0-gauge wire is sufficient, but I personally would run another wire to the battery for ground if I thought I may draw total rated current of 150 amps. The chassis is steel, but the truck panels are aluminum all interconnected through small jumper wires throughout.
I too wanted power in the bed and also power for an amplifier, so I hooked up a couple of spots for power including the bed, and behind the rear seat. I used a much smaller distribution of only 40- and 60-amp capacity. For the amplifier circuit I used a BlueSea (100 amp) for the circuit.

For the bed, I am only using it for camping accessories (not a separate camper) and will likely not draw more than 10-20 amps at any given time in the bed. So, for distribution, I used the upfitter wire AUX 5 or 6 and made them "always hot" when the switch is on. As an alternate, I use a separate battery for power without using the truck battery by using a boat battery switch. (I made quite an elaborate system.) The stud to the right of the switch is my ground point.

You raise some very good points! I like your install!

I should have found my ground point before buying cable, as I don’t have enough length to get back to the battery. I think I’m going to drop the spare and look for a factory ground I can tie into. If nothing looks viable then I’ll have to just buy more cable.

Do you know if it matters which battery I use? My power comes from the passenger side, but I imagine the ground could return to either battery, right?

 

[mds2004]

This is the ground location I used for my ARB twin, right by the spare tire.

 

[legmar]

This is the ground location I used for my ARB twin, right by the spare tire. View attachment 54425

Cool! Thanks!! I should have plenty of cable to use the same. Really appreciate the tip!!

 

[Canyon Trekker]

You raise some very good points! I like your install!

I should have found my ground point before buying cable, as I don’t have enough length to get back to the battery. I think I’m going to drop the spare and look for a factory ground I can tie into. If nothing looks viable then I’ll have to just buy more cable.

Do you know if it matters which battery I use? My power comes from the passenger side, but I imagine the ground could return to either battery, right?

I would use the same battery as the positive hookup. I see below you got a good tip for a convenient ground. Just be cautious that the connection is to bare metal, not through the clip. (Remove paint and coat with dielectric grease) Many of these ground points are for low current function or accessories, not heavy-duty current draw. As long as the connection is solid to the frame and not through the threads of the clip, 150 amps should be no problem. Thanks to @mds2004 for the tip.

 

[legmar]

I would use the same battery as the positive hookup. I see below you got a good tip for a convenient ground. Just be cautious that the connection is to bare metal, not through the clip. (Remove paint and coat with dielectric grease) Many of these ground points are for low current function or accessories, not heavy-duty current draw. As long as the connection is solid to the frame and not through the threads of the clip, 150 amps should be no problem. Thanks to @mds2004 for the tip.

Looks like you are correct. There is paint under the factory ground I just removed.
So I guess I can try sanding off a little paint around the hole where my ring terminal would make contact to the frame.

Sanding my paint makes me nervous.

I think I may sand it, attach ground (with dielectric grease on the ring terminal), then spray over it with some primer to prevent rust.