Talons Garage — Shop Updates: Skid Plate Fabrication

Talon2006

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Figured I’d start a thread showing some of the work going on in the shop.

Most of what we’re building right now is skid plates and underbody armor. Over time we’ve gone through a lot of different ways of designing and building them — different materials, different fabrication methods, and a fair amount of trial and error figuring out what actually works.

Thought it might be interesting to document some of that here.

I’ll try to post updates when we’re working on something worth sharing — things like cutting parts on the laser, bending armor on the press brake, welding, prototyping, and some of the lessons learned along the way.

A lot of this has been learned the hard way, so I’ll probably include some of the mistakes too.

Today we were running a batch of skid plates on the laser.

[IMG]


Always satisfying watching a full sheet turn into a stack of parts.

Curious what do you want to see in here?
 
Curious what do you want to see in here?


I have yet to install the 7.3 Godzilla transmission/exhaust catalysts skid I've purchased from you a few months back. Waiting until I get my trans valvebody swapped in.

I like how this plate is formed, so maybe now that we've seen the cutter, we could see the brake?

And, are you thinking of producing a steering linkage skid? I know there's another fab shop out there making one but I don't know too much about it.

Thanks for bringing us into your shop! Cheers
 
Curious what do you want to see in here?

A full sized image of @Optimus🤖 laser engraved on the skid plate. THAT'S what the public wants my friend!!! 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 :love: :love: :love: :love: :love: :love:

I do love the whole modern manufacturing process from raw materials to final product.
:cool::cool:🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲
 
Welcome back!

I second @HeavyAssault! I need a custom engraved image of Optimus Prime 😁.

Edited to show what I'm talkin' bout!

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Figured I’d give a quick look at how the shop is laid out since I’ll be posting updates from here.

It’s a mix of organized and mid-project most days. When we’re running parts it doesn’t stay clean for long, especially once material starts moving through.


We try to keep the workflow pretty simple and linear so parts don’t bounce all over the place.
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Raw sheet comes in and goes straight to the CNC laser.

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From there parts move over to deburring and edge finishing on the Loewer 4TD and Apex EZ, then over to the Mitsubishi press brake for forming. After that everything goes to welding, and finally into the powder coating booth and oven.
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Most of the efficiency really comes from that flow — once parts start moving, each step feeds the next one.

We’re running Miller welders for assembly, and having powder coating in-house helps keep everything moving without waiting on outside vendors.

Still making small changes here and there, but the overall flow is working pretty well right now.
 
Dang man that’s quite the setup!
 
Still no plans for any coating?

We do have powder coating in house, but we still don't coat aluminum because we just don't have enough capacity for it. It is something we are slowly building up too. If you email us, my wife might do one for you.

I got fired from powder coating a few months ago, so the ball is in her court now :P.
 
Every skid plate we ship starts as a flat sheet of metal. Getting from that to finished armor takes a handful of machines, and each one does something the others can’t.

Most of the process starts on the CNC laser. We're running an Oree 6KW fiber laser with an exchange table. That's where everything gets cut out — holes, slots, and overall shape. It's probably the most important machine in the shop.

If the laser goes down, everything else basically stops, and it's also the hardest machine we have to keep running consistently.

From there parts go through edge finishing. We're running a Loewer 4TD Disk Master and an Apex EZ sander. The finish the Loewer puts out is what sold me on it — it was a big step up from the Apex, which we still use more for steel parts.

Next step is the Mitsubishi press brake. That's where flat parts actually start turning into armor. The press brake is probably the crown jewel of the shop — between the controller and how smooth it runs, it makes a big difference when you're forming thicker material.

After forming, everything moves over to welding. We're running a Miller 350P setup for aluminum, which has been a big improvement over the earlier setups we tried.

Last step is powder coating. Having that in-house keeps things moving and avoids sending parts out.

Each machine handles one part of the job, but the real efficiency comes from how everything flows together.

We'll go deeper into each of these individually, but this is the setup that keeps everything moving.

Anyone else have one machine in your shop that, if it goes down, everything else basically stops? What is it for you?
 
Ran a full sheet of skid plates on the laser today. Every part we make starts here — if something is off at this stage, it carries through every step after.

Most of our parts start here. Everything from the overall shape to bolt holes and slots gets cut at this stage, so if something is off here it carries through the rest of the process.

We didn't always have the laser. Originally I was cutting everything on a plasma table, which worked, but the edge quality and hole accuracy just weren't where I wanted them. There was a lot more cleanup before parts could move on to bending.

Switching to a laser made a big difference. Cuts are cleaner, holes come out right, and it saves a lot of time downstream.

We're cutting both steel and aluminum — mostly 1/4" aluminum and 3/16" or 10ga steel — and they behave pretty differently. Aluminum can be a little more finicky, especially on thicker sheets, while steel is a bit more forgiving.

One thing I learned the hard way is how important it is to keep parts from tipping up during cutting. If a part lifts, the laser head can catch it, and that gets expensive fast. I've destroyed a cutting head before because of that.

Now we use tabs to keep parts stable in the sheet while cutting, which has made a big difference.

Running the laser also takes more air than I expected. We ended up running a high pressure setup around 300 PSI to keep things consistent.
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Always a good feeling when a full sheet finishes clean and everything stays where it's supposed to.

Ever had a cut go sideways on you? I’ve killed a cutting head before — curious if anyone else has had an expensive “oh no” moment at a machine.
 
Good work. I’ve been pleased with my skids on each truck I’ve ordered for. My Toyota gets beat to death and it’s still holding strong.

Highly recommended.
 
I have a few question @Talan2006. Mine all revolve around owning a Tremor with the 7.3L Godzilla gas engine. I can see a benefit of having an engine and transmission skid plate.

1. I am assuming that the skid plate covers the transmission as well as the engine since it goes back to the cross member where the OEM differential skid plate connects. Would your skid plate still work if someone was to add on the PPE transmission pan found here https://ppepower.com/collections/tr...ssion-pan-2020-2025-ford-super-duty-6-2l-7-3l. I am not sure how much more this pan sticks down compared to the OEM pan. And of course if one had this new pan it has a drain plug in it which is nice to have for changing the fluid. If your skid plate would work with the PPE pan it would be nice to not have to remove it in order to change the transmission fluid if you have the PPE pan but to have an access hole like it does for the engine oil drain plug and oil filter. Of course if you keep the OEM transmission pan you would have no other option but to remove the skid plate.

2. The access holes or ports that you have on the skid plate for changing the engine oil and engine oil filter are nice. But I can see where I would think it would be best just to leave them off. Especially if I have them changed by a dealer or some sort of oil change service company. You make the point in your installation instructions that you need to be careful that you do not use the wrong Allen key since you could strip out the head of the button head bolts and I can see someone doing that. I guess I would need to give them the right Allen key to do the job. But of course it is not their truck and in today's attitudes you do not see people following the Golden Rule so much anymore, do unto others as you would have them do unto you.

3. Many of us on the forum have swapped out the OEM 34 gallon gas tank and installed the 58 gallon Transfer Flow tank found here https://www.transferflow.com/58-gallon-ford-midship-replacement-fuel-tank. The OEM tank had a skid plate on it. The TF tank is all metal but it would be nice to have a skid plate for it. I don't know if anyone has ever approached you about making a skid plate for the 58 gallon tank. I was just wondering if that would be something that you would be interested in doing. I am in NJ and you are in TX which is a good distance apart. If I was closer I would be willing to volunteer my truck for you to take a look at if something like this was even feasible. here is a link to the photos I have taken with the install of the TF tank https://share.icloud.com/photos/00335Wa4--Vn8WDErXw-7oMJw.

4. I purchased the TrailGuard Stage 3 which replaces the air dam with a metal frame for bumper protection when going off road which you can see here https://trailswing.com/product/trailguard-super-duty-for-2017-2025-ford-f250-f350-f450-super-duty/ They state the following in their description "An optional lower skid plate can be purchased separately for increased radiator and engine protection. (Coming Soon)" I am a bit skeptical about them doing this but it sounds interesting.

5. As another point, I really don't know if a front skid plate with a solid front axle is achievable like you see on a Bronco or an F150 or on Tacoma's etc. On any vehicle with independent front axles l see that as being feasible. It would be interesting to hear your thoughts on this.

6. How do you compare your skid plate to the ASFIR or the Juggernaut products and how do you think the Talons skid plate is superior compared to these two? What is your warranty on your products?

I really appreciate all that you have posted about your company and how your shop works through the production process. My youngest son is a mechanical engineer and of course he uses CAD programs all the time. He works for a company that designs the conveyor systems for companies like Amazon etc. I like the drawings in your installation instructions

Thanks
Robpm
 
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Edge finishing is the step most people never think about, but absolutely notice when it’s skipped. It’s also one of the most overlooked parts of building good armor.

Fresh off the laser, parts look good but they're still razor sharp. Especially on thicker material, edges can be rough enough that you don't want to handle them without gloves.

Before anything goes to the press brake, we run everything through edge finishing. It cleans up the edges, knocks down any burrs, and makes the parts a lot easier (and safer) to work with.

We're running both a Loewer 4TD Disk Master and an Apex EZ sander. The Apex still has its place for flat sanding, but for rounded edges we needed the Loewer.

The Loewer is what we use for most aluminum parts now. I was honestly surprised how big of a difference it made —the edges were way sharper than I realized.

Gears and Gadgets actually got a set of plates from us before we had the Loewer and then after, and even he noticed how much cleaner the edges were.

One thing that did surprise me though... the Loewer is slower than I expected, even after seeing it in person. Still worth it, just something I didn't fully appreciate until we were running production through it.

Despite how sharp the edges used to be, my wife somehow managed to keep her soft hands intact helping in the shop.
IMG_3488.jpg


A sneak peek inside our 4TD. Each brush has its own electric motor.
IMG_0124.jpg


You can see the frosted edge on the skid plate after running through the machine.

IMG_0141.jpg


The brushes have 100's of individual fingers that allow them to fall into small holes. These brushes are over 500 dollars each, and we need two to run.

IMG_0152.jpg


Anyone ever cut themselves on a sharp aftermarket plate edge? I’ve heard some horror stories from guys installing cheap skids — curious what you’ve run into.
 
I have a few question @Talan2006. Mine all revolve around owning a Tremor with the 7.3L Godzilla gas engine. I can see a benefit of having an engine and transmission skid plate.

1. I am assuming that the skid plate covers the transmission as well as the engine since it goes back to the cross member where the OEM differential skid plate connects. Would your skid plate still work if someone was to add on the PPE transmission pan found here https://ppepower.com/collections/tr...ssion-pan-2020-2025-ford-super-duty-6-2l-7-3l. I am not sure how much more this pan sticks down compared to the OEM pan. And of course if one had this new pan it has a drain plug in it which is nice to have for changing the fluid. If your skid plate would work with the PPE pan it would be nice to not have to remove it in order to change the transmission fluid if you have the PPE pan but to have an access hole like it does for the engine oil drain plug and oil filter. Of course if you keep the OEM transmission pan you would have no other option but to remove the skid plate.

2. The access holes or ports that you have on the skid plate for changing the engine oil and engine oil filter are nice. But I can see where I would think it would be best just to leave them off. Especially if I have them changed by a dealer or some sort of oil change service company. You make the point in your installation instructions that you need to be careful that you do not use the wrong Allen key since you could strip out the head of the button head bolts and I can see someone doing that. I guess I would need to give them the right Allen key to do the job. But of course it is not their truck and in today's attitudes you do not see people following the Golden Rule so much anymore, do unto others as you would have them do unto you.

3. Many of us on the forum have swapped out the OEM 34 gallon gas tank and installed the 58 gallon Transfer Flow tank found here https://www.transferflow.com/58-gallon-ford-midship-replacement-fuel-tank. The OEM tank had a skid plate on it. The TF tank is all metal but it would be nice to have a skid plate for it. I don't know if anyone has ever approached you about making a skid plate for the 58 gallon tank. I was just wondering if that would be something that you would be interested in doing. I am in NJ and you are in TX which is a good distance apart. If I was closer I would be willing to volunteer my truck for you to take a look at if something like this was even feasible. here is a link to the photos I have taken with the install of the TF tank https://share.icloud.com/photos/00335Wa4--Vn8WDErXw-7oMJw.

4. I purchased the TrailGuard Stage 3 which replaces the air dam with a metal frame for bumper protection when going off road which you can see here https://trailswing.com/product/trailguard-super-duty-for-2017-2025-ford-f250-f350-f450-super-duty/ They state the following in their description "An optional lower skid plate can be purchased separately for increased radiator and engine protection. (Coming Soon)" I am a bit skeptical about them doing this but it sounds interesting.

5. As another point, I really don't know if a front skid plate with a solid front axle is achievable like you see on a Bronco or an F150 or on Tacoma's etc. On any vehicle with independent front axles l see that as being feasible. It would be interesting to hear your thoughts on this.

6. How do you compare your skid plate to the ASFIR or the Juggernaut products and how do you think the Talons skid plate is superior compared to these two? What is your warranty on your products?

I really appreciate all that you have posted about your company and how your shop works through the production process. My youngest son is a mechanical engineer and of course he uses CAD programs all the time. He works for a company that designs the conveyor systems for companies like Amazon etc. I like the drawings in your installation instructions

Thanks
Robpm
1. I don't know how far the new pan sticks down, so I can't comment on if it will fit. We do not have plans of adding a drain hole for aftermarket pans. Would need too many variants to make that work.

2. Yes, we do hope professional mechanics use the right tools. Many people like our oil drain doors so we would leave them on.

3. We would need to 3d scan the truck with one of those tanks in it in order to prototype. To take on that project I would likely want to have some sort of group buy setup.

4. 5. I have looked at a front skid plate, but it just isn't something we have been able to do yet.

5. we actively support this community :P
 
Edge finishing is the step most people never think about, but absolutely notice when it’s skipped. It’s also one of the most overlooked parts of building good armor.

Fresh off the laser, parts look good but they're still razor sharp. Especially on thicker material, edges can be rough enough that you don't want to handle them without gloves.

Before anything goes to the press brake, we run everything through edge finishing. It cleans up the edges, knocks down any burrs, and makes the parts a lot easier (and safer) to work with.

We're running both a Loewer 4TD Disk Master and an Apex EZ sander. The Apex still has its place for flat sanding, but for rounded edges we needed the Loewer.

The Loewer is what we use for most aluminum parts now. I was honestly surprised how big of a difference it made —the edges were way sharper than I realized.

Gears and Gadgets actually got a set of plates from us before we had the Loewer and then after, and even he noticed how much cleaner the edges were.

One thing that did surprise me though... the Loewer is slower than I expected, even after seeing it in person. Still worth it, just something I didn't fully appreciate until we were running production through it.

Despite how sharp the edges used to be, my wife somehow managed to keep her soft hands intact helping in the shop.
IMG_3488.jpg


A sneak peek inside our 4TD. Each brush has its own electric motor.
IMG_0124.jpg


You can see the frosted edge on the skid plate after running through the machine.

IMG_0141.jpg


The brushes have 100's of individual fingers that allow them to fall into small holes. These brushes are over 500 dollars each, and we need two to run.

IMG_0152.jpg


Anyone ever cut themselves on a sharp aftermarket plate edge? I’ve heard some horror stories from guys installing cheap skids — curious what you’ve run into.
Impressive. I appreciate it. My father was a master machinist so this kind of work is the way he would do things! Thanks for all that you keep sharing with us on how you manufacture your products!
 
Impressive. I appreciate it. My father was a master machinist so this kind of work is the way he would do things! Thanks for all that you keep sharing with us on how you manufacture your products!
I have the PPE transmission pan and the @Talon2006 skid plate installed. All works out well.

One other note, while I do my own oil changes, you could just remove those access plates yourself before taking it into the dealership to avoid them potentially stripping out the screws. You'll definitely want to add a drain valve replacement to your drain plug so the flow of oil can be directed straight down through the access port rather than flow out onto the plate.
 
1. I don't know how far the new pan sticks down, so I can't comment on if it will fit. We do not have plans of adding a drain hole for aftermarket pans. Would need too many variants to make that work.

2. Yes, we do hope professional mechanics use the right tools. Many people like our oil drain doors so we would leave them on.

3. We would need to 3d scan the truck with one of those tanks in it in order to prototype. To take on that project I would likely want to have some sort of group buy setup.

4. 5. I have looked at a front skid plate, but it just isn't something we have been able to do yet.

5. we actively support this community :P
Hey Shaun, if you need a Texas truck with the Transfer Flow tank to scan, let me know. Might also want to get your hands on one with the S&B 60 gallon tank for the diesel trucks.
 
Hey Shaun, if you need a Texas truck with the Transfer Flow tank to scan, let me know. Might also want to get your hands on one with the S&B 60 gallon tank for the diesel trucks.
I was going to make a post specifically about the TF tank and see if any one had one close to Talon's manufacturing facility would be willing to let them make a scan of their truck with the TF tank. If I was not so far away in NJ I would surely volunteer my truck for that purpose. And then the idea of also following through to see how many people who have the TF tank and would be interested in buying a skid plate made for it. This would be a big help for Talon2006 to know if this would be worth his while to design up a plate for those of us who have purchased the TF tank. I can see your point also about the SB diesel tank as well.
 
I have the PPE transmission pan and the @Talon2006 skid plate installed. All works out well.

One other note, while I do my own oil changes, you could just remove those access plates yourself before taking it into the dealership to avoid them potentially stripping out the screws. You'll definitely want to add a drain valve replacement to your drain plug so the flow of oil can be directed straight down through the access port rather than flow out onto the plate.
So I am assuming you have to remove the whole skid plate when you go to change your transmission fluid. Have you thought about drilling a hole yourself in the skid plate to make it easier to change your transmission fluid when you have to do it or does it not make sense?
 
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