📢 DEAL FordTremor.com April 2026 Group Buy! 🌑💡

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25 Diesel Tremor
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21 Bronco FE

TremorGroupBuyApril26.webp

The April 2026 Group Buy is live, and this month we’ve got something to really brighten up the dark side of your moon! 🌑💡

We’ve partnered with buddies at @legmar LLC and @Nick@ApolloOff-Road to bring FordTremor.com members an exclusive offer on the Legmar Quad S2 Rear Bumper Light Brackets and the Apollo Off-Road Quad Baja Designs S2 Rear Bumper Light Kit (including Baja Designs lights, brackets, and wiring harness) for 2023+ Ford Super Duty models.

FordTremor.com members get 15% off retail pricing plus free shipping to the lower 48 states on both the brackets and the Apollo Off-Road complete kit. That’s a savings of $27 on the brackets and up to $163 on the full kit depending on your configuration! If you have any questions about the setup, feel free to post in this thread.



legmar-23-rear-brackets3.webp

✔ Fits Ford factory bumper on 2023-2026 Super Duties​
✔ Patent Pending design for optimal rear + side illumination!​
✔ Works with Baja Designs S2 Sport & Pro​
✔ Dual-pod configuration for rear and side light​
✔ Vibration-isolated mounting with rubber isolator to protect your bumper​
✔ Stealth, low-profile install that looks factory​
✔ 5052 H32 Aluminum (.187") — Made in USA 🇺🇸
✔ Compatible with Carli's Trophy Hitch!​

legmar-23-rear-brackets2.webp

This bracket is design to bolt on to your factory rear bumper to add reverse or auxiliary lights to your Super Duty. Simply remove 2 easily accessible hex bolts under the bumper and then reattach with the bracket. No drilling required!

One light pod is pointed straight back while the second light pod is angled to the side at a 45° angle for maximum light coverage. The brackets are manufactured out of 5052 H32 Aluminum (.187") and finished with a gloss black powder coat for extra durability against corrosion. The top of the bracket comes with a rubber isolator that pads the bracket with protection where it bolts to the truck's bumper.

legmar-23-rear-brackets1.webp
Full details on the complete kits:

Full details on the stand alone brackets:

If you’d like to participate, reply to this thread with “SIGN ME UP!” The thread will remain open for 10 days and close on April 20th, 2026. Once the sign-up period ends, we’ll send each participant a private message with the details to complete the order.
 
Last edited:
  • OP 🔹
  • Staff 🛡️
  • #2
Last edited:
Hey guys,

Very excited to bring this Group Buy opportunity to y'all.

Just wanted to add a little clarification on the wiring options we have.

1. You can choose to purchase no additional wiring and you can create your own wiring harness.
2. You can go with the upfitter only option which will power the lights from the upfitter switch. If your truck does not have upfitters, still select this option and put that you have a Toggle Switch in the notes so we can get the appropriate harness. Upfitter Option will work for any light combination.
3. Reverse Trigger Only (all 4 lights turn on when you shift into reverse)
4. Dual Function - all 4 lights turn on when you shift into reverse AND you can turn on all 4 lights with an upfitter.

PLEASE NOTE: You can ONLY run S2 SPORT lights with the Reverse and Dual Function Harnesses. Because these harnesses draw power from the Reverse Circuit, the current draw of 4 S2 Pros is too much for the circuit based on our calculations. If you're going to run any S2 Pros, we highly recommend going with the Upfitter option.

If you want to run any other kind of combination for wiring out there, feel free to reach out to me via PM and we can discuss.
 
What's the full price then? I'm interested in this with the privileged lights and the upfitter only (#2 from Nick's post) option.
 
Sign me up up! I can shoot a message to Nick. We've been talking already about what parts I need as I already have a set of S2 Sports. I'll be going with #3 option in Nick's post and have all 4 kick on when I shift to reverse.
 
Last edited:
Sign me up up! I can shoot a message to Nick. We've been talking already about what parts I need as I already have a set of S2 Sports. I'll be going with #3 option in Nick's post and have all 4 kick on when I shift to reve
Nick is so great at helping provide custom solutions to the members of this forum!
 
The April 2026 Group Buy is live, and this month we’ve got something to really brighten up the dark side of your moon! 🌑💡

We’ve partnered with buddies at @legmar LLC and @Nick@ApolloOff-Road to bring FordTremor.com members an exclusive offer on the Legmar Quad S2 Rear Bumper Light Brackets and the Quad Baja Designs S2 Rear Bumper Light Kit (including Baja Designs lights, brackets, and wiring harness) for 2023+ Ford Super Duty models.

FordTremor.com members get 15% off retail pricing plus free shipping to the lower 48 states on both the brackets and the complete kit. That’s a savings of $27 on the brackets and up to $163 on the full kit depending on your configuration! If you have any questions about the setup, feel free to post in this thread.




✔ Fits Ford factory bumper on 2023-2026 Super Duties​
✔ Patent Pending design for optimal rear + side illumination!​
✔ Works with Baja Designs S2 Sport & Pro​
✔ Dual-pod configuration for rear and side light​
✔ Vibration-isolated mounting with rubber isolator to protect your bumper​
✔ Stealth, low-profile install that looks factory​
✔ 5052 H32 Aluminum (.187") — Made in USA 🇺🇸
✔ Compatible with Carli's Trophy Hitch!​


This bracket is design to bolt on to your factory rear bumper to add reverse or auxiliary lights to your Super Duty. Simply remove 2 easily accessible hex bolts under the bumper and then reattach with the bracket. No drilling required!

One light pod is pointed straight back while the second light pod is angled to the side at a 45° angle for maximum light coverage. The brackets are manufactured out of 5052 H32 Aluminum (.187") and finished with a gloss black powder coat for extra durability against corrosion. The top of the bracket comes with a rubber isolator that pads the bracket with protection where it bolts to the truck's bumper.

Full details on the complete kits:

Full details on the stand alone brackets:

If you’d like to participate, reply to this thread with “SIGN ME UP!” The thread will remain open for 10 days and close on April 20th, 2026. Once the sign-up period ends, we’ll send each participant a private message with the details to complete the order.
SIGN ME UP!!
 
The April 2026 Group Buy is live, and this month we’ve got something to really brighten up the dark side of your moon! 🌑💡

We’ve partnered with buddies at @legmar LLC and @Nick@ApolloOff-Road to bring FordTremor.com members an exclusive offer on the Legmar Quad S2 Rear Bumper Light Brackets and the Quad Baja Designs S2 Rear Bumper Light Kit (including Baja Designs lights, brackets, and wiring harness) for 2023+ Ford Super Duty models.

FordTremor.com members get 15% off retail pricing plus free shipping to the lower 48 states on both the brackets and the complete kit. That’s a savings of $27 on the brackets and up to $163 on the full kit depending on your configuration! If you have any questions about the setup, feel free to post in this thread.




✔ Fits Ford factory bumper on 2023-2026 Super Duties​
✔ Patent Pending design for optimal rear + side illumination!​
✔ Works with Baja Designs S2 Sport & Pro​
✔ Dual-pod configuration for rear and side light​
✔ Vibration-isolated mounting with rubber isolator to protect your bumper​
✔ Stealth, low-profile install that looks factory​
✔ 5052 H32 Aluminum (.187") — Made in USA 🇺🇸
✔ Compatible with Carli's Trophy Hitch!​


This bracket is design to bolt on to your factory rear bumper to add reverse or auxiliary lights to your Super Duty. Simply remove 2 easily accessible hex bolts under the bumper and then reattach with the bracket. No drilling required!

One light pod is pointed straight back while the second light pod is angled to the side at a 45° angle for maximum light coverage. The brackets are manufactured out of 5052 H32 Aluminum (.187") and finished with a gloss black powder coat for extra durability against corrosion. The top of the bracket comes with a rubber isolator that pads the bracket with protection where it bolts to the truck's bumper.

Full details on the complete kits:

Full details on the stand alone brackets:

If you’d like to participate, reply to this thread with “SIGN ME UP!” The thread will remain open for 10 days and close on April 20th, 2026. Once the sign-up period ends, we’ll send each participant a private message with the details to complete the order.
Sign me up!
 
Too bad I have a 2022. Looks like the deuce deuce crowd is getting left behind 😂
If the 17-22 crowd wants the hookup on the other bracket, PM me 😉
 
Any chance that we can get an option #5, that is dual function but pulls power from the the battery so amperage isn’t a issue?
 
Any chance that we can get an option #5, that is dual function but pulls power from the the battery so amperage isn’t a issue?
That definitely seems possible. Basically, you’d need to install a relay at the rear of the truck. Then run power from the battery to the relay. This would be the power that would run the lights.
Then run power from both the upfitter wire and @Nick@ApolloOff-Road’s dual function harness to the relay. These two wires could be used such that either trigger the relay. When the relay is on then power goes from the relay to the Baja lights.

Probably need some diodes as well.

Anyone else have any other ideas?
 
That definitely seems possible. Basically, you’d need to install a relay at the rear of the truck. Then run power from the battery to the relay. This would be the power that would run the lights.
Then run power from both the upfitter wire and @Nick@ApolloOff-Road’s dual function harness to the relay. These two wires could be used such that either trigger the relay. When the relay is on then power goes from the relay to the Baja lights.

Probably need some diodes as well.

Anyone else have any other ideas?
i'd look at utilizing the aux wire on the 7pin to save the wire run. No more than 7amps if youre running all S2 Pros... more than enough to handle it. Still need the upfitter wire but its one less run.

Cant think of any situation i've been in where i've needed that aux power AND backup lights on the back of my truck. Heck, if anything I want less light bouncing off the trailer in my mirrors.
 
That definitely seems possible. Basically, you’d need to install a relay at the rear of the truck. Then run power from the battery to the relay. This would be the power that would run the lights.
Then run power from both the upfitter wire and @Nick@ApolloOff-Road’s dual function harness to the relay. These two wires could be used such that either trigger the relay. When the relay is on then power goes from the relay to the Baja lights.

Probably need some diodes as well.

Anyone else have any other ideas?
Okay, ran this through ChatGPT...

🧠 What You’re Trying to Achieve​


You want the lights to turn on when EITHER:
  • Upfitter switch = ON
    OR
  • Truck is in reverse

👉 That means you need an OR logic circuit in automotive terms.



🔧 Core Components​

1. Relay (Automotive, 12V, 4-pin or 5-pin)​

  • Standard Bosch-style relay (30/85/86/87)
  • This is what actually switches power to the lights
👉 Think of this as the “muscle” of the system



2. Two Diodes (IMPORTANT ⚠️)​

  • Example: 1N5404 or similar (3A+ rated)
  • These prevent back feeding between:
    • Upfitter switch circuit
    • Reverse signal circuit
  • You need this even if your relay says it has a built in diode.

👉 Without diodes:
  • Turning on upfitter could send power into reverse lights 😬
  • Putting truck in reverse could energize your upfitter circuit


3. Power Source (Fused)​

  • Pull from:
    • Battery (preferred) OR
    • Possibly aux wire on the 7pin.
      • @OmahaBravo would this option trigger dash messages about a connected/disconnected trailer?
    • One of the upfitter outputs (not ideal)
  • Add an inline fuse sized to your lights


4. Wiring​

  • 14–16 AWG typically (depends on light draw)
  • Use proper connectors / heat shrink / loom (you know the drill 💪)


5. Ground​

  • Solid chassis ground for:
    • Relay
    • Lights



⚡ How It Works (Simple Layout)​

Trigger side (control circuit):​

  • Upfitter switch → diode → relay pin 86
  • Reverse signal → diode → relay pin 86
  • Relay pin 85 → ground
👉 Either signal energizes the relay



Power side (load circuit):​

  • Battery (+) → fuse → relay pin 30
  • Relay pin 87 → lights (+)
  • Lights (-) → ground
If it was me (hint, I did this on my truck):
  • I'd use a Blue Sea terminal block to make the connections at the back of the truck super clean and tidy
    • Connect pin 87 to the Blue Sea terminal block and then connect the 4 BD light pods to other side of the block.
    • You could also use the terminal block with one of the "jumpers" to connect both the Upfitter switch wire and the reversal signal wire to relay pin 86. (and don't forget the in-line diodes to prevent back feeding circuits!)
Disclaimer: I am a software engineer, not an electrical engineer. All of this is for informational purposes only, but it's what I've learned by installing my own light setup on my Tremor. Please do your own research!
 
Okay, ran this through ChatGPT...

🧠 What You’re Trying to Achieve​


You want the lights to turn on when EITHER:
  • Upfitter switch = ON
    OR
  • Truck is in reverse

👉 That means you need an OR logic circuit in automotive terms.



🔧 Core Components​

1. Relay (Automotive, 12V, 4-pin or 5-pin)​

  • Standard Bosch-style relay (30/85/86/87)
  • This is what actually switches power to the lights
👉 Think of this as the “muscle” of the system



2. Two Diodes (IMPORTANT ⚠️)​

  • Example: 1N5404 or similar (3A+ rated)
  • These prevent back feeding between:
    • Upfitter switch circuit
    • Reverse signal circuit
  • You need this even if your relay says it has a built in diode.

👉 Without diodes:
  • Turning on upfitter could send power into reverse lights 😬
  • Putting truck in reverse could energize your upfitter circuit


3. Power Source (Fused)​

  • Pull from:
    • Battery (preferred) OR
    • Possibly aux wire on the 7pin.
      • @OmahaBravo would this option trigger dash messages about a connected/disconnected trailer?
    • One of the upfitter outputs (not ideal)
  • Add an inline fuse sized to your lights


4. Wiring​

  • 14–16 AWG typically (depends on light draw)
  • Use proper connectors / heat shrink / loom (you know the drill 💪)


5. Ground​

  • Solid chassis ground for:
    • Relay
    • Lights



⚡ How It Works (Simple Layout)​

Trigger side (control circuit):​

  • Upfitter switch → diode → relay pin 86
  • Reverse signal → diode → relay pin 86
  • Relay pin 85 → ground
👉 Either signal energizes the relay



Power side (load circuit):​

  • Battery (+) → fuse → relay pin 30
  • Relay pin 87 → lights (+)
  • Lights (-) → ground
If it was me (hint, I did this on my truck):
  • I'd use a Blue Sea terminal block to make the connections at the back of the truck super clean and tidy
    • Connect pin 87 to the Blue Sea terminal block and then connect the 4 BD light pods to other side of the block.
    • You could also use the terminal block with one of the "jumpers" to connect both the Upfitter switch wire and the reversal signal wire to relay pin 86. (and don't forget the in-line diodes to prevent back feeding circuits!)
Disclaimer: I am a software engineer, not an electrical engineer. All of this is for informational purposes only, but it's what I've learned by installing my own light setup on my Tremor. Please do your own research!
This is a good description; here is a simple schematic to help visualize the words. In this schematic, the relay numbers are shown as 30, 86, 87, etc.; this is the way most all relays are numbered and the numbers in () are colors according to the color code. (2) RED; (0); Black (4) Yellow; (6) Blue. These are the colors I used, you can use whatever color you want, typically hot is red, ground is black. You can use a relay capable of the current you want to push.

Make sure you put the diodes in the correct polarity. The "line" on the diode is the cathode and opposite end the anode. (+ HOT side)
I made a small box to house my signal diodes, the D3 is just a transient suppressor to protect the steering diodes. (D1-D2) Observe polarity on D3, it is connected opposite the other diodes, the anode is connected to ground; it is backwards on purpose for transient protection. (A relay will generate a large transient due to the field collapse as the relay is de-energized.) The diodes can be either the 1N4007 or the 1N5404, the 5404 is rated for 3A @400V and the 4007 1A@1000V. But this is for the relay coil current rating, not the load rating. (1A is plenty)

D4,5,6,7 are the backup LEDs you will hook up.

Hope this helps
(No Chat GPT robot was harmed in this drawing.) :ROFLMAO:

Diode switch.webp
 
Okay, ran this through ChatGPT...

🧠 What You’re Trying to Achieve​


You want the lights to turn on when EITHER:
  • Upfitter switch = ON
    OR
  • Truck is in reverse

👉 That means you need an OR logic circuit in automotive terms.



🔧 Core Components​

1. Relay (Automotive, 12V, 4-pin or 5-pin)​

  • Standard Bosch-style relay (30/85/86/87)
  • This is what actually switches power to the lights
👉 Think of this as the “muscle” of the system



2. Two Diodes (IMPORTANT ⚠️)​

  • Example: 1N5404 or similar (3A+ rated)
  • These prevent back feeding between:
    • Upfitter switch circuit
    • Reverse signal circuit
  • You need this even if your relay says it has a built in diode.

👉 Without diodes:
  • Turning on upfitter could send power into reverse lights 😬
  • Putting truck in reverse could energize your upfitter circuit


3. Power Source (Fused)​

  • Pull from:
    • Battery (preferred) OR
    • Possibly aux wire on the 7pin.
      • @OmahaBravo would this option trigger dash messages about a connected/disconnected trailer?
    • One of the upfitter outputs (not ideal)
  • Add an inline fuse sized to your lights


4. Wiring​

  • 14–16 AWG typically (depends on light draw)
  • Use proper connectors / heat shrink / loom (you know the drill 💪)


5. Ground​

  • Solid chassis ground for:
    • Relay
    • Lights



⚡ How It Works (Simple Layout)​

Trigger side (control circuit):​

  • Upfitter switch → diode → relay pin 86
  • Reverse signal → diode → relay pin 86
  • Relay pin 85 → ground
👉 Either signal energizes the relay



Power side (load circuit):​

  • Battery (+) → fuse → relay pin 30
  • Relay pin 87 → lights (+)
  • Lights (-) → ground
If it was me (hint, I did this on my truck):
  • I'd use a Blue Sea terminal block to make the connections at the back of the truck super clean and tidy
    • Connect pin 87 to the Blue Sea terminal block and then connect the 4 BD light pods to other side of the block.
    • You could also use the terminal block with one of the "jumpers" to connect both the Upfitter switch wire and the reversal signal wire to relay pin 86. (and don't forget the in-line diodes to prevent back feeding circuits!)
Disclaimer: I am a software engineer, not an electrical engineer. All of this is for informational purposes only, but it's what I've learned by installing my own light setup on my Tremor. Please do your own research!
This AI stuff is getting out of control! We need to stop the robots immediately....er, eh, nevermind.
 
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