WHAT ARE YOUR TOP THREE RECOMMENDED UPGRADES? (POLL TO FOLLOW)

Husky floor liners, camper shell and my drawer system. Some type of phone mount.
Nothing major except the shell.
 
"I see a lot of guys mention wheel well liners, any reason not to get the factory installed ones? My planned build already includes rear."

Why not the fronts, too? They don't get muddy? 😉
On my list; I don't have any picked out yet
 

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"I see a lot of guys mention wheel well liners, any reason not to get the factory installed ones? My planned build already includes rear."

Why not the fronts, too? They don't get muddy? 😉
Unless Ford recently made some changes, the Build and Price.....along with the dealer ordering system will not allow the Front Wheel Well Liners with the BAP. However, it is possible to add both Front and Rear Wheel Well Liners to the SAP.
 
The ram air looks like it would work, If you never go off road. In the south I think it will fill up with mud. JMO
 
1. S&B 60 gal tank - absolute necessity if you tow.
2. Diamondback - so I can stand on it and show my superiority.
(The DB is also the most secure IMHO)
3. Ford mud flaps - shoulda ordered them from the factory.
My dealer installed them FOR FREE cause I'm so speshul. 🤡
 
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1. S&B 60 gal tank - absolute necessity if you tow.
2. Diamondback - so I can stand on it and show my superiority.
3. Ford mud flaps - shoulda ordered them from the factory.
My dealer installed them FOR FREE cause I'm so speshul. 🤡
i took my mudflaps off the order cuz they said it would delay my order, did your dealer throw them in and install them?
 
I paid for them but they're a PITA to install so I was very thankful
for the freebie.
 
I'm pretty simple and do not plan on making many changes but the tailpipe on the 7.3 bugs the crap out of me and looks cheap and out of place so I added this one which makes a lot of difference. I cut off approximately 4".
 

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I appreciate the benefits of the Banks cover. But, its huge and draws attention to itself. I'm not a fan of single focal points.
Use the flat black paint instead of the truck nuts?
 
Unless Ford recently made some changes, the Build and Price.....along with the dealer ordering system will not allow the Front Wheel Well Liners with the BAP. However, it is possible to add both Front and Rear Wheel Well Liners to the SAP.
Black Appearance Package comes with its own front wheel well liners, so that's why. :) Don't know if the coverage is as good, though.
 
1. UPR Catch Can - simple install and instant intake manifold and engine protection - Palm Beach Dyno video showed buildup at 12k

2. Stabilizer and potentially Track Bar to conquer wandering - less tire pressure on empty truck helps. Maybe Rear Sway Bar still researching suspension quirks. Minimal approach to simply fix any factory issues.

3. Floor Matts and remove modem fuse

Then I am considering a drop-in filter and Renegade Tonneau!

My goal is to do the minimum to enhance an already great platform with minimal cost.

I may do a custom tune and when the time comes I may add diff covers with drain and fill capability to make service easier.

And lastly watching for the potential QC TSB and recall issues.
Okay so what is the point of the UPR Catch Can? I have a 2007 Nissan Titan with 200,000 miles. Never had engine issues. I tow a pop up tent trailer and have driven this truck from CA to GA. Also I might have pushed it to its max speed (117mph). Is the catch can for heavy towing at high RPM?
 
Okay so what is the point of the UPR Catch Can? I have a 2007 Nissan Titan with 200,000 miles. Never had engine issues. I tow a pop up tent trailer and have driven this truck from CA to GA. Also I might have pushed it to its max speed (117mph). Is the catch can for heavy towing at high RPM?
It’s basically peace of mind. Reality is, for a port injected, naturally aspirated engine it’s over-kill.

In the case of a direct injected engine it’s super valuable as the oil coming from the crankcase coats the back of the valves, causing carbon build-up that will eventually cause misfires. Add in a turbo or supercharger and you’ll tend to see greater pressures in the crankcase, elevating the amount of venting and therefore oil going through the intake.

Since the 7.3 is port injected the gas naturally cleans the back of the valves. The lack of a turbo or supercharger minimizes ventilation.

But it sure does feel good dumping out the nasty mess the catch can collects, knowing it didn’t go into the intake.
 
It’s basically peace of mind. Reality is, for a port injected, naturally aspirated engine it’s over-kill.

In the case of a direct injected engine it’s super valuable as the oil coming from the crankcase coats the back of the valves, causing carbon build-up that will eventually cause misfires. Add in a turbo or supercharger and you’ll tend to see greater pressures in the crankcase, elevating the amount of venting and therefore oil going through the intake.

Since the 7.3 is port injected the gas naturally cleans the back of the valves. The lack of a turbo or supercharger minimizes ventilation.

But it sure does feel good dumping out the nasty mess the catch can collects, knowing it didn’t go into the intake.
First thank you for that explanation. I understand now. Second how often do you have to dump the catch? Is it when you change the oil or is there an indicator?
 
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