- OP 🔹
- #41
To summarize the end result;
It was the high power / brake LEDs that triggered the trailer message. To work around that, I disected the harness and got rid of the DD brake strobe box and left the reverse and low power LEDs connected. The lead for the high power red LED was then extended to the factory CHMSL blunt cut wire on the rear cross member. I found in the BBLB that this was for use on a topper/ utility body 3rd brake light. Max 5 amps. Well within the lights I installed. I used weatherpack single terminal connectors for that so I didn't have to use a Heat gun so close to all the other wire looms.
If others plan on using 3 function lights my recommendation is to make your own harness. Then you can run it along the factory harnesses back there. If you aren't comfortable soldering and pinning deutsch connectors, the DD harness will work but you'll have to cut out the strobe box and insulate the wire ends/ run the brake light lead to the CHMSL lead on the rear cross member. Totally doable, but the harness length limits routing options.
I thought I took a photo of where to fnd the CHMSL wire. Must not have. It is a violet wire with a white tracer taped on the outside of a loom that runs on the back side of the rearmost cross member. There is a white tag that says CHMSL but I couldn't see that until I twisted the loom a little bit.
It was the high power / brake LEDs that triggered the trailer message. To work around that, I disected the harness and got rid of the DD brake strobe box and left the reverse and low power LEDs connected. The lead for the high power red LED was then extended to the factory CHMSL blunt cut wire on the rear cross member. I found in the BBLB that this was for use on a topper/ utility body 3rd brake light. Max 5 amps. Well within the lights I installed. I used weatherpack single terminal connectors for that so I didn't have to use a Heat gun so close to all the other wire looms.
If others plan on using 3 function lights my recommendation is to make your own harness. Then you can run it along the factory harnesses back there. If you aren't comfortable soldering and pinning deutsch connectors, the DD harness will work but you'll have to cut out the strobe box and insulate the wire ends/ run the brake light lead to the CHMSL lead on the rear cross member. Totally doable, but the harness length limits routing options.
I thought I took a photo of where to fnd the CHMSL wire. Must not have. It is a violet wire with a white tracer taped on the outside of a loom that runs on the back side of the rearmost cross member. There is a white tag that says CHMSL but I couldn't see that until I twisted the loom a little bit.
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