Solved- DD lights cause "Trailer Detected" message

To summarize the end result;
It was the high power / brake LEDs that triggered the trailer message. To work around that, I disected the harness and got rid of the DD brake strobe box and left the reverse and low power LEDs connected. The lead for the high power red LED was then extended to the factory CHMSL blunt cut wire on the rear cross member. I found in the BBLB that this was for use on a topper/ utility body 3rd brake light. Max 5 amps. Well within the lights I installed. I used weatherpack single terminal connectors for that so I didn't have to use a Heat gun so close to all the other wire looms.
If others plan on using 3 function lights my recommendation is to make your own harness. Then you can run it along the factory harnesses back there. If you aren't comfortable soldering and pinning deutsch connectors, the DD harness will work but you'll have to cut out the strobe box and insulate the wire ends/ run the brake light lead to the CHMSL lead on the rear cross member. Totally doable, but the harness length limits routing options.
I thought I took a photo of where to fnd the CHMSL wire. Must not have. It is a violet wire with a white tracer taped on the outside of a loom that runs on the back side of the rearmost cross member. There is a white tag that says CHMSL but I couldn't see that until I twisted the loom a little bit.
 

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It's a fairly compressed mp4. I just tried in Chrome without being logged in and it worked.
The next part of the project (later on) will br the flood light override from an upfitter. I ordered a manual and want to trace out the trailer reverse circuit. I'm not sure if it runs through a FET or not. My knowledge in that area isn't very deep, but I don't think backfeeding them is OK or not. Maybe @Canyon Trekker can shed some light on FETs and reverse flow?
@Apples The mp4 file will play if you download it to your PC.

I have the YM 2022, but wiring is probably similar, but color codes may differ. The reverse lamps are actuated with an FET. There are a couple of taps from the same FET drive though, it energizes the reverse lamp modules and also the mirrors, likely energizing the BLIS. So, tying another non isolated signal into the circuit may cause back feeding and may affect the BLIS. Probably better to isolate with a couple of diodes in line with your current drive going to the floods. and one from the reverse signal.

The FET is likely the same type as controls the puddle lamps which are strong enough to run a Baja S2 as I did without issue. (I ran S1s, but I know it is capable of S2s)

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@Apples The mp4 file will play if you download it to your PC.

I have the YM 2022, but wiring is probably similar, but color codes may differ. The reverse lamps are actuated with an FET. There are a couple of taps from the same FET drive though, it energizes the reverse lamp modules and also the mirrors, likely energizing the BLIS. So, tying another non isolated signal into the circuit may cause back feeding and may affect the BLIS. Probably better to isolate with a couple of diodes in line with your current drive going to the floods. and one from the reverse signal.

The FET is likely the same type as controls the puddle lamps which are strong enough to run a Baja S2 as I did without issue. (I ran S1s, but I know it is capable of S2s)

View attachment 236175
View attachment 236176
Thank you! I was thinking either diodes or an isolation relay. For the relay, the common terminal would go th the lights, normally closed to the automatic reverse circuit from the truck, normally open to the upfitter. The upfitter would also power the relay coil. So when I overrode the rear floods it would open the NC contact back to the truck harness.
Once
my manual arrives I'll dig into that circuitry some more.
 
So I have a 22 lariat tremor with LED taillights and wanting to install the DD reverse hitch kit. I don’t really understand the technical electrical specifics in this thread but what I’m gathering is I won’t be able to just plug and play with this? And tapping into the LED taillight is NOT recommended? Also would going with the C1 vs the C1R make a difference? I mainly just want more light thrown when in reverse.
 
So I have a 22 lariat tremor with LED taillights and wanting to install the DD reverse hitch kit. I don’t really understand the technical electrical specifics in this thread but what I’m gathering is I won’t be able to just plug and play with this? And tapping into the LED taillight is NOT recommended? Also would going with the C1 vs the C1R make a difference? I mainly just want more light thrown when in reverse.
The C1r will not plug and play in my experience detailed in this thread. It’s the brake function that made it all go sideways.
Looking at the harness for the C1, you should be good to go. There is no little magic black box like the 1r harness has. That’s what I had to remove and then tap the Center High Mount lead to get brake function.
 
I think I will give it a shot then. Hopefully can just return if doesn’t work. Thanks for the info.
 
I think I will give it a shot then. Hopefully can just return if doesn’t work. Thanks for the info.
No problem!
I recommend you plug the harness and light in before actually installing/ running the wire. Tape or zip tie the harness and light up out of the way so that they don’t get scuffed up. Drive up and down your street a little just to make sure.
I did not actually start and drive the truck. Just key power on. It wasn’t until I had it running that the trailer messages popped up
Please report back to keep us updated.
 
I really want to upgrade my halogen headlights but the headaches I hear about going after market keep me away. Been looking for some OEM but they are not cheap.
 
No problem!
I recommend you plug the harness and light in before actually installing/ running the wire. Tape or zip tie the harness and light up out of the way so that they don’t get scuffed up. Drive up and down your street a little just to make sure.
I did not actually start and drive the truck. Just key power on. It wasn’t until I had it running that the trailer messages popped up
Please report back to keep us updated.
Installed tonight the C1 version tonight and works as intended with no issues. The toughest part was getting the wiring into the receiver hitch! Spare doesn’t leave any room in front of the tube.
 
Installed tonight the C1 version tonight and works as intended with no issues. The toughest part was getting the wiring into the receiver hitch! Spare doesn’t leave any room in front of the tube.
Lol, no there is next to zero space! I’m sure you added some sort of extra chaff protection there.
Good to hear you got er done!
 

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