Rust Proofing / Ziebart worth it?

I applied this product and chemical guys bare bones. Each product were used separately, in different locations. But if you don't have the time , or don't want to get dirty check out the link .

https://www.krown.com/en/locations/united-states/michigan/rochester-hills/rochesterhill

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Don’t have a Ziebart within 500 miles and the snow plows were dumping a mix of sand/salt today along with spraying a liquid anti freeze on the freeway couple fluid film places and line X underbody coating but it’s not a big industry
 
+1 for krown or rust check.
 
I used CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor. I'll be doing it again soon. So far so good.
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I live in Michigan. What are your thoughts on rust proofing my new tremor?
The aluminum body is no issue. There are a number of frame and linkage areas that would benefit, although I would not apply any treatment that dries hard. Those actually promote corrosion when salt and water creep between the undercoating and the frame. I would only use one of the non-drying films that can be applied. Rust-Check's product is like this. I'm using the spray on and brush on Fluid-Film myself. Easy and pretty quick to apply. Actually protects electrical connections and wiring so you don't have to avoid those areas. You can spray driveline and steering linkage components with no ill effect as well. It can even be effectively applied over a slightly dirty surface and still inhibit corrosion. Clean would be the best application of course.
 
The very first thing I did after waiting nearly 11 months for the truck was drive it from the dealer to a diesel shop and left it for another 5 days to get undercoated. I'm also in Michigan and my previous vehicle had very few issues other than those rust related. It wasn't ziebart. The place used New Hampshire oil. Since the truck was new, they put a coating on and let it cure for a couple days. Was worth it to me. Snow today and ice today, so between that and a car wash subscription, the underside should stay good for years to come. They inspect and touch up every two years with this product.
 
I used the WoolWax Black Aerosol as it is thicker than the fluid film product. Took about 2 hours and 10 aerosol cans to do entire under side. I notice on covered areas that are exposed in the wheel wells that it seems to hold up really good to direct power washing (from a few feet away).
 
I used a local shop and they did my whole truck. I came from the old "hot oil undercoating" world of old, and this new stuff is sticky as hell. Once the road dust stuck to it - no problem. It does suck when working under the truck now (opposed to a new truck with shiny frames, bolts, and nuts) but if I didn't do it rust takes over - and I want this truck to last. It was a hard call, but I did it.

 
I used the WoolWax Black Aerosol as it is thicker than the fluid film product. Took about 2 hours and 10 aerosol cans to do entire under side. I notice on covered areas that are exposed in the wheel wells that it seems to hold up really good to direct power washing (from a few feet away).
I’m a Woolwax fan also. Even though it is sacrificial, I do not have to do it every year. It holds up very well. Ziebart will eventually crack and let water and salt get under the coating, causing hidden corrosion.

Caution - wear old clothes whenever you change your oil, take off your trailer hitch, or anything involving working under the truck. Woolwax and Fluid Film do not dry. They will be all over your clothes. (Use Dawn for best removal results). I coated my truck 3 days after taking delivery. A week later I put on my wheel well liners. I was covered in Woolwax when I was done with the liners.
 
Lots of good options. I opted for the lazy way and went to a Krown dealer. Done in about and hour and pretty cheap (<$100 for just the chassis or $150 for the body included).
 
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