Rhino Hitch - Anyone? Anyone? Voodoo Economics (movie quote for fun)

I did the same thing, reached out to them about the pin and the rating but have not heard back from them yet. I guess you could go old school and just not use the ball system they have?
 
Here is the pin on a 16k hitch. I picked mine up straight off the assembly line on site. View attachment 46941
Well that’s concerning.

I did the same thing, reached out to them about the pin and the rating but have not heard back from them yet. I guess you could go old school and just not use the ball system they have?
True. Though I can’t help but be concerned about the rest of the hitch. It sure seems beefy, but you just need one weak link (like that shank).
 
Has anyone used or bought an adjustable like the Rhino Hitch? I looked at the at our local boat show last week. Havent bought a hitch yet but need to before spring. The 3 inch one I looked at went from 1 inch above to 10 inch drop. All black.

I'd love any insight if anyone has one of these or used one?


I have the one you described; I love the hitch. As you know the fit and finish speaks quality. They are built local so I got to look at it before purchasing. I don’t leave the hitch in when I am not using it so it’s not a problem for my chins. 😂 My B&W always looked horrible and started rusting before too long. I have a 5th wheel and only pull an aluminum cargo trailer, so it fits my needs. The bonus is I can raise it up while up camping and don’t have to worry about dragging anymore. Good luck!

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Great question, I didn’t look into it. The rhino hitch system works as a single pin connected to the hitch, and you use a ‘convert-a-ball’ that slips over the pin. That pin itself is only rated to 10k, regardless of 2” or 2 5/16”.
 
I think I am missing something here, which PIN are you guys referring to as only rated for 10,000 lbs.
1. The pin that holds the hitch to the receiver?
2. The pin that holds the hitch in the selected pivot height?
3. The bolt on/through pin that the ball attaches to?

Oh, my F350 Plat "AMB" was place OCT 09 and Picking up tomorrow 02-19-2022!!!!!
 
I think I am missing something here, which PIN are you guys referring to as only rated for 10,000 lbs.
1. The pin that holds the hitch to the receiver?
2. The pin that holds the hitch in the selected pivot height?
3. The bolt on/through pin that the ball attaches to?

Oh, my F350 Plat "AMB" was place OCT 09 and Picking up tomorrow 02-19-2022!!!!!

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This shank is the weak link, which is included when you purchase the ‘rhino hitch’ system.

You can see(barely) in the above picture that lower lip is stamped with 10000 lbs.

Congrats on your rig, post pictures!
 
I now see on the ball shank that it reads 10,000 lbs; shame on me for not noticing. The good thing for me is I only pull about 4,000 and my trailer is only rated for 7,000. As I mentioned I live close to where they are manufactured and will get some clarification, especially on advertising. They shouldn’t sell the balls attached to the hitch and then advertise 16k; this is misleading. I would have purchased regardless, because of the appearance, quality and ease of maintenance. However, if you need a higher towing capacity and versatility of changing balls, this wouldn’t be the right hitch. As many of you, I have 6 or so hitches laying around so I can change hitches if it is ever needed. I’ll report back if/when I hear something.
 
I have the one you described; I love the hitch. As you know the fit and finish speaks quality. They are built local so I got to look at it before purchasing. I don’t leave the hitch in when I am not using it so it’s not a problem for my chins. 😂 My B&W always looked horrible and started rusting before too long. I have a 5th wheel and only pull an aluminum cargo trailer, so it fits my needs. The bonus is I can raise it up while up camping and don’t have to worry about dragging anymore. Good luck!

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Really appreciate your reply as you may or may or may not know I live in Utah as well I really believe this is the direction I'm going to go. I mostly just tow my boat and a utility Box trailer and flat trailer nothing super high weight this way.
 
The "weak link" in this equation is the Convert-A-Ball. Order the hitch without it, and find a ball that's rated at 16K lbs. Rhino will adjust the pricing if you don't take the CAB...just give them a call.

Caveat...make sure the shank of the ball will fit the hole in the hitch. I believe the standard hole is 1 1/4".
 
Never did hear back via email, so gave Rhino Hitch a call. Guy stated that the shank is rated for 10,000 pounds of tongue weight, not trailer weight. I confirmed that with him a couple of times and ended the first call there.

I went back to the Convert-A-Ball website and saw that they list their ratings for GVW, so I called Rhino back and he said that he was told by Convert-A-Ball back in the day that it was for tongue weight.

To say the least, that's not confidence inspiring. And while I can't say definitively that Rhino is wrong, I'm pretty darn confident they are. Unfortunately, that fundamental misunderstanding is enough to call the entire hitch into question for me and rules it out as an option for a hitch for me.

Convert-A-Ball website (from earlier in the thread): http://convert-a-ball.net/cab/the-original-convert-a-ball-interchangeable-ball-system/

To anyone else who wants to go with the hitch but replace the Convert-A-Ball I did confirm on the phone that it's a 1" diameter hole, so you could put any ball in there with a 1" shank.
 
Never did hear back via email, so gave Rhino Hitch a call. Guy stated that the shank is rated for 10,000 pounds of tongue weight, not trailer weight. I confirmed that with him a couple of times and ended the first call there.

I went back to the Convert-A-Ball website and saw that they list their ratings for GVW, so I called Rhino back and he said that he was told by Convert-A-Ball back in the day that it was for tongue weight.

To say the least, that's not confidence inspiring. And while I can't say definitively that Rhino is wrong, I'm pretty darn confident they are. Unfortunately, that fundamental misunderstanding is enough to call the entire hitch into question for me and rules it out as an option for a hitch for me.

Convert-A-Ball website (from earlier in the thread): http://convert-a-ball.net/cab/the-original-convert-a-ball-interchangeable-ball-system/

To anyone else who wants to go with the hitch but replace the Convert-A-Ball I did confirm on the phone that it's a 1" diameter hole, so you could put any ball in there with a 1" shank.
I’m not an engineer, but I don’t understand how the shank affects the tongue rating as opposed to the trailer weight rating. My thought is that the limiting factor on the shank would be the shear rating from a pulling force. If I’m incorrect please correct me.

Thank you for diving in and calling for more information.
 
I’m not an engineer, but I don’t understand how the shank affects the tongue rating as opposed to the trailer weight rating. My thought is that the limiting factor on the shank would be the shear rating from a pulling force. If I’m incorrect please correct me.

Thank you for diving in and calling for more information.
Agreed. The amount of downward force likely impacts the shear forces involved to some extent. But the amount of downward force is also pretty directly correlated to the overall trailer weight. And the majority of the shear force would be dictated by the trailer weight.

Additionally, the shank needs to be able to bear the downward force. But that's almost certainly not the limiting factor.
 
The weight rating of the ball shank (whether a ball, pin, etc.) is probably the largest variable. You can find balls with the same shank diameter yet with different weight ratings, so clearly things like material composition, ball shank length, etc. are also factors.

Just look at the eTrailer or UHaul websites....they offer ball mounts (sans ball) that are rated for various load and tongue weights. Then you need to select and appropriate ball to match the capacity of your mount and trailer.

Paired with an appropriately rated "ball", I would have zero concerns about the Rhino Hitch itself.

Also, the Rhino can be ordered with a 1 1/4 shank opening. That's what I did with my 3" unit.
 
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Never did hear back via email, so gave Rhino Hitch a call. Guy stated that the shank is rated for 10,000 pounds of tongue weight, not trailer weight. I confirmed that with him a couple of times and ended the first call there.

I went back to the Convert-A-Ball website and saw that they list their ratings for GVW, so I called Rhino back and he said that he was told by Convert-A-Ball back in the day that it was for tongue weight.

To say the least, that's not confidence inspiring. And while I can't say definitively that Rhino is wrong, I'm pretty darn confident they are. Unfortunately, that fundamental misunderstanding is enough to call the entire hitch into question for me and rules it out as an option for a hitch for me.

Convert-A-Ball website (from earlier in the thread): http://convert-a-ball.net/cab/the-original-convert-a-ball-interchangeable-ball-system/

To anyone else who wants to go with the hitch but replace the Convert-A-Ball I did confirm on the phone that it's a 1" diameter hole, so you could put any ball in there with a 1" shank.

Thanks for the update! It’s good to know what the true limits of the hitch/ball comb are and what is necessary if I want to get the true 16k out of the hitch. The hitch truly is an amazing looking and crafted hitch, and I’m glad I bought it. Then again I’m only pulling about 4000 pounds max…… and would’ve bought it even with a 10,000 pound tow rating.
 
I have the one you described; I love the hitch. As you know the fit and finish speaks quality. They are built local so I got to look at it before purchasing. I don’t leave the hitch in when I am not using it so it’s not a problem for my chins. 😂 My B&W always looked horrible and started rusting before too long. I have a 5th wheel and only pull an aluminum cargo trailer, so it fits my needs. The bonus is I can raise it up while up camping and don’t have to worry about dragging anymore. Good luck!

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Thanks for the photos! That visual helps a lot with my decision making. I have one question for you - do you happen to know (or would you mind measuring) the horizontal distance from the top of the ball to the hitch receiver opening? Reason I ask...with my current weigh safe hitch and enclosed trailer, I can't open the truck tailgate because of the trailer tongue jack. Looking for something that pushes the trailer a little further away from the bumper so the tailgate will clear the tongue jack handle. Thanks a bunch!
 
Thanks for the photos! That visual helps a lot with my decision making. I have one question for you - do you happen to know (or would you mind measuring) the horizontal distance from the top of the ball to the hitch receiver opening? Reason I ask...with my current weigh safe hitch and enclosed trailer, I can't open the truck tailgate because of the trailer tongue jack. Looking for something that pushes the trailer a little further away from the bumper so the tailgate will clear the tongue jack handle. Thanks a bunch!
Unfortunately I’m in the mountains camping and won’t be home until Monday. I don’t have a tape measure but this should give you a visual as it is set up for my cargo trailer. I can open my tailgate if my trailer is straight. I assume my boot is about 12”+, if you need an exact measurements remind me next week. Changing the rise would of course change this dimension. If I was guessing I’d say about 12-13” to the center of the ball with my setup.

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Unfortunately I’m in the mountains camping and won’t be home until Monday. I don’t have a tape measure but this should give you a visual as it is set up for my cargo trailer. I can open my tailgate if my trailer is straight. I assume my boot is about 12”+, if you need an exact measurements remind me next week. Changing the rise would of course change this dimension. If I was guessing I’d say about 12-13” to the center of the ball with my setup.

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That’s perfect! Thanks for the details. I just bump the tailgate by a smidge so if that distance is anything greater than 3-4” and I should be golden!
 
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