Sparks could have came from the solenoid pack as well. Just because it ‘clicks’ doesn’t mean the solenoid is letting power flow to the motor. Could be defective solenoid(s) and motor may be good still. @ccw
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So I remember there was a thread where someone was complaining their dealership just started requiring appointments for oil changes.
Well, it’s not an oil change, but I heard back from one dealer near me and they’re booking service appointments for the end of March right now! :O
Earliest I could get in was January 16th, though another dealer has the parts for the wiper arm recall for me so I’m going there. Their earliest appointment was the 23rd.
Just crazy in this area.
Thanks for this. When i end up installing my winch, i will just seal all these points on my own to prevent these kind of issues.I had the same issue, winch completely dead. I bet your issue is the same as mine.
From the plug where the controller/remote plug in, follow the wires back and they lead to a grey male/female plug that attaches to the rest of the winch wiring harness. On mine the plug was completely full of water and mud so when I operated the remote it immediately shorted the plug, sparks and all. Bypassed the plug and all was good.
This is the plug, on the bottom left you can see one of the pins has completely blown off:
View attachment 106892
I feel like if you do the install you will be extra careful and prevent all the weak points where water /moisture might get in so this wont end up being an issue. Dealers doing the install wont take the extra time to seal a possibly weak connection.@ccw The fate of your winch will decide on whether I axe plans to buy and install one for Red Zeppelin.
Pro-tip for the future, you can "watch" a thread with the button at the top of the thread if you want to get notifications for it, no need to reply to it! No harm no foul, but I find it easier to do than responding if I just want notifications.Tagged for interest.
I wish that was the case here! Don't know if the scheduling backup is a Seattle area thing specifically, or a big city thing, or what. Not that the Seattle area is even that big in the grand scheme of things, when compared to the likes of LA, Atlanta, New York, etc.I'm shocked My dealer you could drop off no notice and other than work further than maintenance it would for sure get done in a few days if no parts required to order. It's called Ford Quicklane so I assumed it was at all Ford dealers.
Same! Hopeful it's just an odd-ball failure.Warn is the flagship of winches and makes an amazing product. I’m very surprised to hear this.
Well I hadn't heard of that brand before! My attention has been peaked! Though dang it I don't want to drop $4000 on a bumper and another $1500 on a winch right now.In before ccw gets a Sherpa sherpa winch.
Interesting! Thank you for sharing this! I'll see if I can get to that plug tomorrow. Any tips on getting to it? Did you pull off the trim in front of the winch? Get to it from behind? Pull the fairlead?I had the same issue, winch completely dead. I bet your issue is the same as mine.
From the plug where the controller/remote plug in, follow the wires back and they lead to a grey male/female plug that attaches to the rest of the winch wiring harness. On mine the plug was completely full of water and mud so when I operated the remote it immediately shorted the plug, sparks and all. Bypassed the plug and all was good.
This is the plug, on the bottom left you can see one of the pins has completely blown off:
View attachment 106892
Purchased from Ford of Kirkland, but try to go to Evergreen Ford for servicing. Haven't had a bad experience with Ford of Kirkland when it comes to servicing, just have a positive history with Evergreen Ford from my old truck so no reason to experiment.@ccw What dealer you go to?
Same opinion here... I may just return to the front hitch/modular solution. Will wait and see based on the results.@ccw The fate of your winch will decide on whether I axe plans to buy and install one for Red Zeppelin.
I just pulled out the plastic insert in the bumper and could reach it from there. The plug isn’t too far back.Interesting! Thank you for sharing this! I'll see if I can get to that plug tomorrow. Any tips on getting to it? Did you pull off the trim in front of the winch? Get to it from behind? Pull the fairlead?
Oh awesome! Ok will take a look. How did you bypass it? Just shove some wire in there for super temporary operation?I just pulled out the plastic insert in the bumper and could reach it from there. The plug isn’t too far back.
Great points. And it's not necessarily that I would want to throw it away, moreso that I would want to get something that's easier to access/work on. I'll poke around more today, removing the front trim like @sillawydna suggested and maybe I was mistaken. But if I wasn't mistaken, then it sucks having something go wrong and effectively needing to drop the bumper to work on it.Bunch of sparks sounds like a short to me.
Also, without knowing the specifics, and knowing Warn winches, I'd suspect the install over the winch.
These aren't things to throw away, they are simple and tough, get it fixed.
That's awesome! And great to hear. Long-term I'll be suspicious of the factory winch with regards to support from Ford/Warn - this experience isn't really representative since it's in warranty. Hearing from others who have called warn for various reasons, though not a winch failure, Warn was punting to Ford for support.I've had a couple trucks with Warn winches and they were great. One particular Warn M6000 I put through hell and abused for the better part of 15 years and it saved me a lot of times. Once, I shorted it out accidentally, I called Warn and they sent me to a local equipment dealer/repair place, I think it cost me about $50 or $70 to fix... can't remember what they did.
Absolutely my intent. I want to run it to an upfitter switch so I can toggle the power that way, but it's a great callout.What I learned though was put a motor disconnect on the lead to your battery and inspect it all periodically.
My only pushback on that is: was damage to the vehicle mitigated, or the occupants. In a high speed collision with a solid object or another vehicle (think head-on collision) you want damage to the front of the vehicle, a.k.a. crumple zone, as that's energy dissipated before it gets to the passenger compartment. No damage to the vehicle means all of the energy was transmitted to the passenger compartment.Can't wait to get my '23, didn't order the Ford Warn but will definitely be adding a full frame Warn probably on their ascend bumper if it fits the '23. These things might not be "crash rated" but I've seen the protection a Smittybuilt tube bumper brought, and also seen the damage mitigated by a ight Warn transformer mount. There's no question for me that there is no substitute for putting more steel up front between you and the offender if you are going to take a hit.
Appreciate it! I'll hold off for now. Want to give Ford of Kirkland a chance to work on it since they did the install, and they're close. But I'll absolutely keep them in mind if I run into issues!I would recommend my dealership, but it is way "hours" out of the way. But maybe worth while to call.. Van Cleve Ford and talk with their Service manager Austin.
Fair comments. Only relating my experience from my own years of crash data..
y only pushback on that is: was damage to the vehicle mitigated, or the occupants. In a high speed collision with a solid object or another vehicle (think head-on collision) you want damage to the front of the vehicle, a.k.a. crumple zone, as that's energy dissipated before it gets to the passenger compartment. No damage to the vehicle means all of the energy was transmitted to the passenger compartment.
Similar with pedestrian safety, you want a crumple zone of some sort to protect them. Obviously I don't plan on hitting a pedestrian, but I'm a human around humans so I can't discount it. I would far rather have a pedestrian live and my truck take some damage than the other way around.
To be clear: obviously everyone can do what they want. But that's why I'm so suspect of aftermarket bumpers. 50+ years of crash data, along with the immense engineering that's gone into consumer vehicles, has bore out the benefits of crumple zones for human safety by sacrificing the vehicle.
@PapaRaptor what was the failure mode with yours?
I cut the wires on both sides of the plug and reconnected with marine heat shrink butt connectors.Oh awesome! Ok will take a look. How did you bypass it? Just shove some wire in there for super temporary operation?
You remember the size of the connectors? I am going to get some to keep in the truck.I cut the wires on both sides of the plug and reconnected with marine heat shrink butt connectors.