Evil Twin’s tales from the crypt- Trans Pan Replacement

The Evil Twin

Infected with Tremoritis
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Location
Virginia
Current Ride #1
2026 Platty HO
Current Ride #2
2015 Lariat F250
On a 2026, it’s not as straight forward as you may think!
I’ve had this new transmission pan on the shelf long enough. Finally got some spare time to install it. Here are some tips that I did not find in any video or write up on the interweb.
Draining the beast: Most people leave a few bolts in and crack open the rear of the pan. Making some sort of mess is unavoidable. I figured since it was going in the trash, why not drill a hole? After pounding a 6er, I grabbed the drill and a bit. Seemed like a good idea. I drilled a 3/16” hole right under the filter. Worst case, I have to replace it. Success!
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Removing the Tupperware pan: You will need / want 1/4” wobble (U Joint) sockets. Or, a wobble adapter and shallow sockets. Trust me, the front bolts are a bitch. Most every video I saw edited the fight to remove/ install the pan. The ones that were not edited were different year trucks. The issue I ran into was clearance at the cooler and cross member. The filter is close to the front of the pan, so you are limited on how far back you can push. Ford says to disconnect the hard lines from the trans case, coolant hoses and remove the cooler. That’s per the shop manual. I just removed the bolts holding it to the bracket, and loosened the bolts that hold the bracket to the trans. That gave just enough play to drop the pan.
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Installing the new pan was easy. Used a new gasket. In hindsight, I could have used the old one. Just had to nudge the cooler a little and hold it up. Make sure you have at least 2 bolts ready to go. If you choose to use the socket head cap screws that come with a new pan, you will want some ball- end Allen sockets. You can’t get straight on to the rear bolts and 1 of the front ones.
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The fill: Easiest way, I think, is to measure what you took out and add the “extra” your pan holds. In my case, I installed the PPE pan for the 7.3 gasser (yes, it works in the diesel!) which is +5 quarts over stock. I drained 11 liters on the dot. I put in 16.5 quarts. Before disconnecting the fill hose, I started the truck and let it run for about a minute. I moved to drive and reverse a couple times to start pushing oil around. Even so, it was a little messy removing the fill adapter to put the plug in before taking a drive. Not a ton came out, but enough to lubricate my socket wrench.
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Only about 8 or 9 ounces came out with the trans at 195 degrees. Pretty damn good if I do say so myself!
Thanks to @StickyF350 for answering a couple questions yesterday!
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Forgive the silly question but did you use the standpipe plug to release any extry vol-yume of tranny fluid?

DIDJA

I anticipate this install before the Holidays! but snuggled up betwixt two catalysts...

/not as pretty
 
Forgive the silly question but did you use the standpipe plug to release any extry vol-yume of tranny fluid?

DIDJA

I anticipate this install before the Holidays! but snuggled up betwixt two catalysts...

/not as pretty
Yep, I used the pipe plug to drain the extra. In hindsight, I should have hose clamped the tube to the fill plug and plugged plus hose clamped the open end to drive and heat it up. That would have been much cleaner to drain the overage. As opposed to removing the plug with 200* oil giving me a manicure.
I’m not sure on the 7.3. I know the pipes are close, and I’m not sure where the cooler sits. Online photos make it look different than the diesel. Still, you should be able to just loosen the cooler. The hard lines have some give. They are aluminum, so you do have to be careful.
Easiest way is to go buy a diesel and follow my suggestions 🤪
 
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