Do I need a weight distributing hitch?

[2020Tremor]

You don’t need one with those weights. If you tow in wind or fast - never hurts to have one.

Try it without and if you have conditions that give you sway then add one

Enjoy the trailer!

X2

 

[LoftyJon]

As for the drop, mine is at 7 so I have an 8 inch with my tremor. Not sure what going on with others but the trailer is suppose to ride level lol. Note I have tibrens installed too. Good luck.

 

[Modman]

What drop is needed for our trucks? I was thinking 6” or 8”?

I have a 6" drop WeighSafe True Tow weight distribution hitch. Works great and I do not need any additional drop for my TT.

 

[Modman]

Here is a pic of the 6" drop. Note if you have a different tongue configuration on your trailer yours may end up looking differently. I think there is one or two additional holes I could go down. The head of the hitch takes up a large "spread" on the vertical portion of the receiver, though, and the ball is pretty much level with the truck receiver. So essentially I'm just using the drop to accommodate the hitch head:

 

[pickleknuckles]

With a travel trailer it isn't just about the weight, it is also the lateral forces caused by the sail you are pulling behind your truck. The pivot point behind the axle doesn't help matters either unlike a 5er where the pivot is over the axles. I vote for getting one.

This right here.

It's not so much about the parts under your control. TTs are big and relatively light for their size, all it takes is one solid cross wind or defensive swerve at speed.
My travel trailer comes in at just over 22' and 3300lbs w/a 450lb tw. Weight wise, I don't need one and I often pull it from my house to my shop (30min all interstate) without one, but when the family is onboard and we're traveling, I always use one. Mine was less than $1k and there are cheaper available, so IMO, it's an inexpensive safety precaution for you, your family, and others sharing the road.

 

[Churchkey]

I have a 6" drop WeighSafe True Tow weight distribution hitch. Works great and I do not need any additional drop for my TT.

What he said!

 

[adm3]

I have the same rig. I always use a WDH here in Colorado. We have a lot of wind so it can only help out with sway (e4 with built in sway). Plus you can dial it in and make everything nice and level to avoid any porpoising.

 

[RyanP]

I have a 6" drop WeighSafe True Tow weight distribution hitch. Works great and I do not need any additional drop for my TT.

Same and mines gotta be up towards the top

 

[Skibum1681]

I personally would use a WDH with sway control of some sort.

Many of the posts in this thread imply that a WDH = sway control. This is not always the case. Sure some WDW set ups have built in sway control by MANY do not and the sway control is a separate accessory.

 

[adm3]

I personally would use a WDH with sway control of some sort.

Many of the posts in this thread imply that a WDH = sway control. This is not always the case. Sure some WDW set ups have built in sway control by MANY do not and the sway control is a separate accessory.

If you're towing a camper, then hopefully those should know that the old school WDH with chains are certainly not for big, long, tongue heavy rectangular boxes. So hopefully if you avoid those, then yes most of the correct WDH (with friction bars) will obviously have built in sway. Other than Anderson builds their setup with a chains and still achieves no sway.

 

[Modman]

Many of the posts in this thread imply that a WDH = sway control. This is not always the case

Great point! Thanks for clarifying.

Other than Anderson builds their setup with a chains and still achieves no sway.

Yes, Andersen still uses friction for sway mitigation, just at the shaft for the hitch ball.

 

[SteveG75]

RV dealer is adding a Camco R3 which is a WDH with adjustable sway. May not be able to open tailgate but will deal with that later.

Plan for that is a Jack Back to relocate trailer jack.

Move Jack Back, Align Hitch & Ball | R&M Manufacturing | Spanaway WA

STOP tailgate hitting jack! MOVE tongue Side-to-Side for ONE-PASS hookups! Relocate & Rotate the Trailer Jack for FULL rear access. | R&M Manufacturing

www.jack-back.com

 

[MCRTREMOR]

When I bought my Winnebago Voyage 3538BR, I had a 1500 Chevy Trail Boss. The RV place said they would not sell me or let me leave without a WDH and a 4-hour safety and functionality course (which I enjoyed since this was my first travel trailer). The sales guy said it was CA law. Their cost was $700 for the Husky Center, so I said I would go out and buy one and go back to pick up the Trailer. After much negotiating, I finally got the hitch at no cost. Now I got rid of the Trail Boss and finally have my Tremor. I used the same Husky Center Line TS with spring bars. I strapped it to a Bulletproof heavy-duty weight distribution adapter and a Bulletproof 3" extreme duty 8" drop hitch—a bit overkill but better safe than upside down on the highway. I have no sway and the towing is extremely comfortable. ​

 

[MrFancypants]

A WDH can help mitigate sway but the real solution is to eliminate sway entirely with sufficient tongue weight. Opinions vary but I would aim for >12% of trailer GVW. I don’t ever use a sway control brake because my tongue weight is so high on my Lance trailer (>1000 lb).

The problem with high tongue weight is it causes rear end squat, which is the real reason you need a WDH. Without one your trailer will dip forwards and your truck will dip backwards, which is bad for both vehicles. If that’s not enough of a reason, it also looks stupid.

I was surprised by the amount of squat on my F350 when towing, and the ridiculous factory rake they applied to compensate for it. I also use Stableloads, which engage the overload springs immediately while towing and consequently reduce squat. I have towed short distances without the WDH but always use it for highway trips because it just tows better. If I didn’t have the Stableloads I would never tow without the WDH. It just squats too much.

 

[BuckeyeF350]

A WDH can help mitigate sway but the real solution is to eliminate sway entirely with sufficient tongue weight.

This is true for ideal towing conditions. Sway control should still be used to help address abnormal conditions.

 

[TremorHopeful]

I have a Propride 3P hitch for sale if you're interested. Makes a pretty significant difference in comfort and safety when compared to nothing and even a standard WDH

 

[BuckeyeF350]

I have a Propride 3P hitch for sale if you're interested. Makes a pretty significant difference in comfort and safety when compared to nothing and even a standard WDH

Any chance you have the 3" receiver end?

 

[TremorHopeful]

Any chance you have the 3" receiver end?

No, unfortunately it's the 2" receiver. I used it with two reducers though with no problem the few times I towed my TT before selling it.

 

[weatherherk]

I use them just because you add your gear water and it adds up plus you can run the sway Control on the side that will let you cruise at 70 or 80 to me it tracks better

You cruises at 70 or 80 mph while towing a Rv…am I understanding you correctly ? You have any idea of the speed rateing is on your Rv tires… to each their own but you might consider backing it down for your sake as those around you. Just saying…

 

[Mad_Max]

No, unfortunately it's the 2" receiver. I used it with two reducers though with no problem the few times I towed my TT before selling it.

I have the 2 1/2" receiver on my ProPride. It's a heavy beast and I could not imagine it being even heavier with the 3". The 2" may not be a bad thing!

By the way the ProPride is one heck of a hitch - especially if you can get a deal on one in the secondary market as they are pricey.