Do Airbags Increase Payload Above 2,871 Pounds?

You cant increase the payload with airbags. They will level the load of the rear. They don’t increase the strength of the rest of your rig.
Airbags and other rear suspension devices (Timbrens, Sumo, add-a-leaf, RAS, etc) basically add spring rate. As @6seven stated that doesn't address the entire system. It doesn't much matter, though, since GVWR governs the equation of your payload...

Cliff's Notes version of the link @ccw provided above:

Payload = GVWR - Curb
 
I’m not “taking their word” then acting on it. I’m asking other 6.7L Tremor owners questions for which I use their answers to build on my research.

That stated, I absolutely understand your point, which is why this is only part of my research.
To be honest, let’s just celebrate the OP for being concerned, responsible enough to research, and trying there best to be safe with all the information.

I see people towing all around town with insane setups with half tons and suvs. They either don’t care or have just been told by crappy cars salespeople or trailer dealers that “oh yeah, max tow on your vehicle is 10k, you are fine to tow this, just sign on the bottom line” and never thought to do their own research. Just taking someone’s word blindly.

Also, let’s not forget how bad all the information on the internet is. Every trailer manufacturer will post insanely low estimates of tongue or pin weight, auto makers only ever publish max tow ratings and payloads. Very little information that is actually relavent to help with your specific setup. So it can be very confusing and stressful given the large amount of money you are about to invest. Only way I ever knew that it was all bullshit was asking in forums like this.

When I was in the same boat, it was very helpful to have trusted friends and places like this forum to be able to ask innocent questions to make sense of the 10% good information and 90% garbage information you are getting.

Regardless if you have been towing your entire life, or about to start today, we all started somewhere. I am sure we all had someone in our early days that helped us figure all this out, and hopefully with the safe and correct information/skills.

As I see it, if I want to see less bad towers on the road, it is my responsibility to help inform people to end the cycle, not just sit back and “be a man” and tell people to just tow well regardless of the vehicle or load. Only way that happens is when people are vulnerable enough to ask the questions and take the feedback - let’s have some empathy and celebrate the OP for doing that. People being ashamed or made fun of for doing it is what keeps the cycle going.

Regardless of where the OP lands with a rig, at least they are investing the time and energy into what seems like a fraction of people who tow do.
 
Only to learn what is and is not helpful/possible/safe.
I'll throw my $.02 out there for you.

The super duties are great tow platforms, in fact most of the body-on-chassis vehicles are. If you're looking for ways to safely tow a load you're going to want to focus on how the load is distributed over the vehicle and, probably more importantly, how the vehicle can put that load onto the ground.

Air bags will help lift the load up. This will provide the correct drive angles for all the suspension and steering components. If the rear of the vehicle is sagging you'll reduce the front wheels ability to steer. If you've ever picked up too heavy a load on a forklift and lifted the rear off the ground you know what I'm talking about. However, bags are really only good for loads IN the bed. mainly because the bags are pushing against the load and the wheels in directly opposite directions. This will apply to 5th wheel and goose necks as well. Bags are less helpful with conventional or platform hitches. Not to say they're useless, they're just less helpful. In fact, some argue bags for conventional towing is a problem as it adds bending moments in the chassis. You'll want to research level arms/fulcrums, etc. for a better understanding. If you're going to add bags I always recommend making each side's bag have its own fill valve as you provide the truck with side to side stability as well as lifting.

Sway bars. These are removed from the factory on the Tremor package. You can add one back in if you'd like. You trade articulation in off road environments for stability on-road. Sway bars are easily disconnected for times you're not towing. Combined with independently valved air bags, these provide side to side stability and even increase cornering performance. Granted these are 8,000# trucks and not Mazda Miatas.

Correct tires/air pressure. Having tires that can handle the load are probably one of the best "safety" items you can do/add to the truck. Frankly, the factory tires are a bit crap in most driving environments and towing is no exception. Swap out the tires for something more inline with what you'll do with the truck. If this is going to be a pavement pounder with a trailer connected 98% of the time, you don't need A/T tires. There are happy balance tires but you'll have to do some clicking. Don't be put off by having a set of towing tires and a set of "play" tires. There are ways to transport the second set of tires.

Proper hitch. This is a testy area with people who tow. Everyone swears by their hitch. I'm not going to suggest one brand over another as that's for your use-case to decide. If you're towing a big heavy conventional you'll probably want a WD hitch. I find them a bit combersom but I'm also not towing travel trailers/toy haulers for thousands of miles. If you ask my opinion in this area I'll share my decision on the Gen-Y hitch I purchased. I typically tow either a flatbed 'car hauler' (more like tractor hauler) and on several occasions something with a pintle. The Gen-Y allows me to do both without a ton of fuss. The weigh safe hitch has a built in scale so you can adjust the load in your trailer appropriately. If you're moving weight around to ensure balance, this may be a hitch worth researching.

As said in previous comments, the safety of the tow ultimately starts and ends with the operator. There are ways to ensure a successful trip; checking safety chains, break-away brake cable, hitch latch secured, load properly distributed, load properly secured, trailer tire pressures, tire temps, wheel bearings lubed, general proper maintenance, etc. the list goes on but ultimately it's practice and experience which dictate the success of a journey.

Speaking out of turn a little, are the weights on the stickers under the true capability of the truck? Absolutely. It's not even a question, I make this statement with previous experience. There are many factors that go into the GVWR, GCWR, etc. that reduce the load values. A fair amount of those factors are federal and state laws for the "size" of the vehicle and even more of them are lawyer imposed. Going back to the operator comment above, it's about safely operating the load. If one were to overload by 1,000# are you going to damage something? Probably not. But if you cause an accident or damage someone's property you'll be denied insurance coverage, LEOs will hold you responsible for operating unsafe, Ford won't do anything because they 'put the sticker there for a reason'. It's usually not a risk worth taking.

Remember, you can be the safest driver in the world. But there's some idiot in the car next to you one sneeze away from totaling your $90K truck.
 
To be honest, let’s just celebrate the OP for being concerned, responsible enough to research, and trying there best to be safe with all the information.

I see people towing all around town with insane setups with half tons and suvs. They either don’t care or have just been told by crappy cars salespeople or trailer dealers that “oh yeah, max tow on your vehicle is 10k, you are fine to tow this, just sign on the bottom line” and never thought to do their own research. Just taking someone’s word blindly.

Also, let’s not forget how bad all the information on the internet is. Every trailer manufacturer will post insanely low estimates of tongue or pin weight, auto makers only ever publish max tow ratings and payloads. Very little information that is actually relavent to help with your specific setup. So it can be very confusing and stressful given the large amount of money you are about to invest. Only way I ever knew that it was all bullshit was asking in forums like this.

When I was in the same boat, it was very helpful to have trusted friends and places like this forum to be able to ask innocent questions to make sense of the 10% good information and 90% garbage information you are getting.

Regardless if you have been towing your entire life, or about to start today, we all started somewhere. I am sure we all had someone in our early days that helped us figure all this out, and hopefully with the safe and correct information/skills.

As I see it, if I want to see less bad towers on the road, it is my responsibility to help inform people to end the cycle, not just sit back and “be a man” and tell people to just tow well regardless of the vehicle or load. Only way that happens is when people are vulnerable enough to ask the questions and take the feedback - let’s have some empathy and celebrate the OP for doing that. People being ashamed or made fun of for doing it is what keeps the cycle going.

Regardless of where the OP lands with a rig, at least they are investing the time and energy into what seems like a fraction of people who tow do.
Thank you! As you’ll see over the next few weeks/months I will continue asking entry-level questions regarding the most basic of fundamentals as I piece information together. Fortunately I’ve already determined my 6.7L will not be pulling a 24,000 pound fifth wheel as I originally envisioned. I’ve tempered my expectations to the 15,000 pound limit with an understanding I may need to go even lighter.
 
Thank you! As you’ll see over the next few weeks/months I will continue asking entry-level questions regarding the most basic of fundamentals as I piece information together.
Keep them coming! We all started somewhere and I'm glad you are asking and doing your research now vs. buying something that is not a good match for your family or your truck. I utilized the vast amount of experience on here as well before pulling the trigger on my current TT...
 
I’m a bit late in this discussion and for that I apologize. But since we’ve been towing our 22’ 6400# dry weight bumper pull travel trailer with our F350 6.7 Tremor this summer, I’ve noticed a bit of a sag in both units from when we first towed. I use a WD hitch, and was wondering what your thoughts are on adding an airbag system just to level out the sag while on the road? My neighbor installed airbags along with using a WD hitch because he is obsessed with both rigs being level. Any thoughts or advice for this almost rookie travel trailer tower? Is it a good idea? Waste of money? Could it be the OEM shocks are wearing out after 12k miles? Thanks.
 
I would check with the manufacturer of your WD hitch. I believe that airbags negate some of the intended effects of the WD hitch, particularly the antisway component if the antisway is predicated on friction between the WD bars and the sway brackets on the a frame, like in an equalizer hitch. I also wonder if it might increase the load on the rear axle.
 
I’m a bit late in this discussion and for that I apologize. But since we’ve been towing our 22’ 6400# dry weight bumper pull travel trailer with our F350 6.7 Tremor this summer, I’ve noticed a bit of a sag in both units from when we first towed. I use a WD hitch, and was wondering what your thoughts are on adding an airbag system just to level out the sag while on the road? My neighbor installed airbags along with using a WD hitch because he is obsessed with both rigs being level. Any thoughts or advice for this almost rookie travel trailer tower? Is it a good idea? Waste of money? Could it be the OEM shocks are wearing out after 12k miles? Thanks.
I had the same issue with our 7500# dry TT and added Timbrens, which solved the problem for me. I'll point you to the links of my before/after picks if you haven't seen them. You could do it with airbags as well but I didn't really want the added complexity or expense. As I stated above, both methods are adding spring rate to the system - one with rubber, one with compressed air.
 
Thanks everyone. Modman, yes if you could point me to those links it would be much appreciated. I’m currently running the Equalizer WD hitch, installed by the dealer in Pendleton, OR we bought our TT from. They’ve been family owned for 70 years now and I trust their expertise on the install and the components they recommended. Everything tows great. Im just looking to level things out a bit. It’s not a drastic sag in the least. I brought up the shock issue after having read threads and opinygolks have about the stock Tremor shocks. BTW my Tremor is stock. No leveling spacers or lift of any kind. Stock wheels and tires.
 
Thanks everyone. Modman, yes if you could point me to those links it would be much appreciated. I’m currently running the Equalizer WD hitch, installed by the dealer in Pendleton, OR we bought our TT from. They’ve been family owned for 70 years now and I trust their expertise on the install and the components they recommended. Everything tows great. Im just looking to level things out a bit. It’s not a drastic sag in the least. I brought up the shock issue after having read threads and opinygolks have about the stock Tremor shocks. BTW my Tremor is stock. No leveling spacers or lift of any kind. Stock wheels and tires.
Here you go:

 
BTW my Tremor is stock. No leveling spacers or lift of any kind. Stock wheels and tires.
Same here... Mine is a 7.3, though...
 
And here is my original post with a picture of the trailer:

 
I’m a bit late in this discussion and for that I apologize. But since we’ve been towing our 22’ 6400# dry weight bumper pull travel trailer with our F350 6.7 Tremor this summer, I’ve noticed a bit of a sag in both units from when we first towed. I use a WD hitch, and was wondering what your thoughts are on adding an airbag system just to level out the sag while on the road? My neighbor installed airbags along with using a WD hitch because he is obsessed with both rigs being level. Any thoughts or advice for this almost rookie travel trailer tower? Is it a good idea? Waste of money? Could it be the OEM shocks are wearing out after 12k miles? Thanks.
That is what I do - I have 2022 F-350 6.7 - ATC toybox - 30' bumper pull - 1,500 lbs. of tongue weight - I use weigh safe weight distribution hitch and air bags (firestone 5000 bags with Air lift 7300 EX compressor and controller) and am able to level truck and trailer with both in use. OEM shocs are a bit soft - a simple shock upgrade to say a 2.0 fox (carli commuter) would enhance you towing experience and improve control. Note my truck has full Carli E-Venture suspension with full spring pack - you OEM springs will carry the tongue weight better than the springs I have - but you would be happy with a shock upgrade for both towing and everyday comfort! Enjoy your truck and trailer!

Tremor with ATC 1 (2).webp
 
I’m a bit late in this discussion and for that I apologize. But since we’ve been towing our 22’ 6400# dry weight bumper pull travel trailer with our F350 6.7 Tremor this summer, I’ve noticed a bit of a sag in both units from when we first towed. I use a WD hitch, and was wondering what your thoughts are on adding an airbag system just to level out the sag while on the road? My neighbor installed airbags along with using a WD hitch because he is obsessed with both rigs being level. Any thoughts or advice for this almost rookie travel trailer tower? Is it a good idea? Waste of money? Could it be the OEM shocks are wearing out after 12k miles? Thanks.
It sounds like your weight distribution hitch is not adjusted correctly. You need to put more tension on the spring bars until the truck is level. You do this by shortening the chains and/or tilting the head. If you can't get the truck level, you need stiffer spring bars. They come in different ratings for different tongue weights. If once you get the truck level, the trailer is not level then you have too much or too little drop in the hitch. Fix that and then adjust the spring bars again. In my opinion, if you need air bags or other spring boosters, you are probably overloading the truck.

Edit: I just looked up your Equal-i-zer WD system. It does not use chains to adjust, but has different positions for the bolts on the trailer end of the spring bars. Concept is the same though. They also have different spring bars available for different tongue weights. Start with adjustment and you may be able to fix your issue without spending a dime.
 
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It sounds like your weight distribution hitch is not adjusted correctly. You need to put more tension on the spring bars until the truck is level. You do this by shortening the chains and/or tilting the head. If you can't get the truck level, you need stiffer spring bars. They come in different ratings for different tongue weights. If once you get the truck level, the trailer is not level then you have too much or too little drop in the hitch. Fix that and then adjust the spring bars again. In my opinion, if you need air bags or other spring boosters, you are probably overloading the truck.

Edit: I just looked up your Equal-i-zer WD system. It does not use chains to adjust, but has different positions for the bolts on the trailer end of the spring bars. Concept is the same though. They also have different spring bars available for different tongue weights. Start with adjustment and you may be able to fix your issue without spending a dime.
A weight distribution hitch is not designed to make the truck level, necessarily. It's purpose is to return an appropriate amount of weight to the front of the vehicle. In some instances this may be the same thing, but in others it may not. Ford provides a guide on front end measurements and how to determine if enough weight is returned to the front. The only way to really know for certain, however, is to take it to the scales. Last thing you want to do is crank up the WD for aesthetics and take too much weight off the tongue or trailer axles.

I'll also say that to my eye, a perfectly level SuperDuty "looks" like it is squatting a bit.
 
A weight distribution hitch is not designed to make the truck level, necessarily. It's purpose is to return an appropriate amount of weight to the front of the vehicle. In some instances this may be the same thing, but in others it may not. Ford provides a guide on front end measurements and how to determine if enough weight is returned to the front. The only way to really know for certain, however, is to take it to the scales. Last thing you want to do is crank up the WD for aesthetics and take too much weight off the tongue or trailer axles.

I'll also say that to my eye, a perfectly level SuperDuty "looks" like it is squatting a bit.
I agree that it is not the aesthetics that matters, but the weight on the front axle. The instructions that came with my Reese WD system years ago said to adjust the WD so that the spring compression of the tow vehicle front and rear was equal. I think that is probably appropriate for a car or SUV, but I do not think it is for a 3/4 or 1-ton pickup truck that is designed to carry a heavy load in the bed. The way I adjust mine is to measure the front end height without the trailer, then adjust the spring bars to get to the same height or slightly lower. This puts the effective tongue weight over the rear axle or slight in front of it like a 5th wheel. This accomplishes your criteria of returning the appropriate weight to the front of the vehicle. I agree that using scales would be better, but I don't think that scale operators and other users would appreciate me farting around for an hour on the scale while I get everything adjusted.

If once the spring bars are adjusted to return the appropriate weight to the front axle, the rear suspension is compressed so much as to need air bags or other spring boosters, the truck is probably overloaded. I am talking about a stock truck here, not one that is "leveled".

The WD system does not reduce "tongue weight" or weight on the trailer axles. In fact it actually increases weight on the trailer axles slightly. As far as the trailer sway effect goes, it is the mass distribution in the trailer that matters the most. Tongue weight is a convenient way to gauge where the center of mass of the trailer is. The center of mass of the trailer does not change with a WD system. I look at it this way: The WD system allows me to have the trailer center of mass where I want it (forward), and have the load on the tow vehicles axles where I want it.
 
I’m a bit late in this discussion and for that I apologize. But since we’ve been towing our 22’ 6400# dry weight bumper pull travel trailer with our F350 6.7 Tremor this summer, I’ve noticed a bit of a sag in both units from when we first towed. I use a WD hitch, and was wondering what your thoughts are on adding an airbag system just to level out the sag while on the road? My neighbor installed airbags along with using a WD hitch because he is obsessed with both rigs being level. Any thoughts or advice for this almost rookie travel trailer tower? Is it a good idea? Waste of money? Could it be the OEM shocks are wearing out after 12k miles? Thanks.
As others have said I would readjust your WD hitch first. The dealership set up your WD hitch with a brand new unloaded camper. Once you put weight in the camper it affects things. I had to readjust mine after being loaded down. Put everything you plan to carry in your truck and camper and then go through the set up steps to get your WD hitch dialed in.
 
The WD system does not reduce "tongue weight" or weight on the trailer axles. In fact it actually increases weight on the trailer axles slightly.
Yes! I typed that out wrong, my mistake... My point was just that once you get the appropriate weight back on the front the job is done, regardless of how the truck is sitting in the rear. That is a resultant.

The way I adjust mine is to measure the front end height without the trailer, then adjust the spring bars to get to the same height or slightly lower.
I have not seen this method before. The Ford process only recommends splitting the difference between unloaded and loaded height on the front.

If your preferred center of mass is farther forward than an equivalent reference of 10% tongue you may have more available weight to "distribute". It has to come from somewhere,

Hey, ultimately if everything is working good for you then so be it. I'm no expert and open to different methods, but like to make sense of what is happening. (y)
 
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