DieselCurrent.com

[NEOHIO]

@NEOHIO you may have discussed this in a different thread, but where is the mating connection for the '22? I'll confess to not having watched the video because it stated 23+

Similar location. Drop the lower glovebox. There are 2 harnesses/plugs plugged into the white locator/keeper. Here are a few pics from a friend with a 22 Platinum.

 

[NEOHIO]

What happens when the truck is turned off? Will the dash-cam, or the usb charger plugged in accessory continue to drain power from the battery?

Yes it will. I have tested this myself on my 25.
I parked it for 8 days at the airport in Cleveland OH. I left the 12v usb c convertor plugged in, as well as both magsafe chargers. I did not receive any notifications from Ford Pass about battery drain. My truck is an 11/24 build. Dual batteries. Truck was parked 2/25.

I have quite a few of these out there running dashcams. I have not heard any reports of battery issues.

 

[Toxophilite]

@NEOHIO you may have discussed this in a different thread, but where is the mating connection for the '22? I'll confess to not having watched the video because it stated

What happens when the truck is turned off? Will the dash-cam, or the usb charger plugged in accessory continue to drain power from the battery?

@Alpoba I am not sure what dashcam you are using, but I know that several (I use VIOFO) have a constant power adapter that will automatically cut power to the camera if they drop below a voltage threshold you set. This will allow you to have the camera recording when the truck is off and keep your battery from draining below a point that you cannot start your truck. Best of both worlds.

 

[NEOHIO]

@Alpoba I am not sure what dashcam you are using, but I know that several (I use VIOFO) have a constant power adapter that will automatically cut power to the camera if they drop below a voltage threshold you set. This will allow you to have the camera recording when the truck is off and keep your battery from draining below a point that you cannot start your truck. Best of both worlds.

The battery management from Ford should also shut everything off to protect itself and allow for starting.

 

[Alpoba]

@Alpoba I am not sure what dashcam you are using, but I know that several (I use VIOFO) have a constant power adapter that will automatically cut power to the camera if they drop below a voltage threshold you set. This will allow you to have the camera recording when the truck is off and keep your battery from draining below a point that you cannot start your truck. Best of both worlds.

I’m no an expert on these matters. I have Garmin mini 2. I was just wondering what happens if i leave something plugged in to the charger after i leave the truck, will the battery drain resulting in no start.

 

[Toxophilite]

I’m no an expert on these matters. I have Garmin mini 2. I was just wondering what happens if i leave something plugged in to the charger after i leave the truck, will the battery drain resulting in no start.

Totally get it - Even though the Viofo has the power adapter for constant power (parking mode), you still need to run power to ACC. If you run the main power cable to to constant, then the camera will not go into parking mode. I am not sure how much more juice this uses though. I was not aware of the battery feature @NEOHIO stated, that is interesting.

 

[NEOHIO]

@NEOHIO you may have discussed this in a different thread, but where is the mating connection for the '22? I'll confess to not having watched the video because it stated 23+

Arod is doing a 17-22 install on his personal truck. I do not have a timeline of when he will release it.

 

[Ragin Cajun]

Son in law #2 and I are dash mounting USB's under our bulletproof mounts. Plus, I want to find a solution for my starlink power besides plugging in to the rear seat 110. We just need to figure out our measurements, guages and such.

 

[NEOHIO]

Son in law #2 and I are dash mounting USB's under our bulletproof mounts. Plus, I want to find a solution for my starlink power besides plugging in to the rear seat 110. We just need to figure out our measurements, guages and such.

The 3ft length should get you anywhere in the front dash. The 13ft will run down the passenger side and terminate under/behind rear seat.

 

[OmahaBravo]

Mine just landed today. This is a very well made harness. I was looking over the heat shrink and sheathing... its near flawless.

This is worth not having to spend the time looking up circuits, figuring out connectors, buying connectors only to find out you bought the B-model instead of the C model. #iykyk

Skip all that nonsense and give John your money.

Thanks for a well-made product, @NEOHIO

 

[McE]

Mine just landed today. This is a very well made harness. I was looking over the heat shrink and sheathing... its near flawless.

This is worth not having to spend the time looking up circuits, figuring out connectors, buying connectors only to find out you bought the B-model instead of the C model. #iykyk

Skip all that nonsense and give John your money.

Thanks for a well-made product, @NEOHIO

Exactly. This is one of those things I would normally do myself, but time is money — and JP’s harness is money well spent.

 

[NEOHIO]

I appreciate the feedback guys!

 

[NEOHIO]

Few things I want to add about my harnesses.
If it makes a difference to you or not.
All the wire I use is made here in the USA. I have been buying from a few different vendors. I literally have 4-5,000 ft of wire on hand. 12-22ga.
Expanded braid was whatever I could get from Amazon. I have since reverted back to Techflex. I have been using the inventory on hand of Amazon stuff. Mainly the 1/8" (17-22) and 1/4" (23+ 16ga). Any 12ga wire gets 3/8 Techflex. That is made in the USA. Unfortunately, the connectors and terminals/pins are made everywhere else. I do only use OEM equivalent connectors and pins. So it Ford used a Molex, Sumitomo, TE connector, that is what I source.

I enjoy the "hunt" on finding the mating connectors. So if you need a WPT-XXX connector to replace something on your truck, please reach out. I bet I can find it, build it & ship it to you for much cheaper than the dealership. I have a few WPT connectors in stock. I need to get them kitted up and uploaded.

I honestly appreciate how welcoming the community has been to a non-Tremor owner. If you ever want something custom, Please reach out.

 

[OmahaBravo]

I'm a big fan of using existing, deadend connectors instead of tapping wires. I'll be keeping an eye out for new stuff.

 

[Tex_Hunter]

Saw the Arod video on this last weekend, definitely ordering this, curious which version (wire gauge/length combo) would be best though? I would likely use this for a dash cam and a Starlink eventually. Right now I haven’t purchased either.

The Starlink says it needs 60W for startup, adding 20% for surge capacity that’s only calling for 6Amps, so even the lightest gauge option seems like overkill. Is something wrong with my math? I had always got the sense that the Starlinks are finicky with power sources.

Seems like the dual 16ga version would do me fine, but don’t want to order and then realize I needed the 12ga.

 

[NEOHIO]

Do you know where you want to mount your starlink? Do you know where you want to make the connection to the harness? Dash/backseat etc.
Do you have plan for future electrical upgrades?

Full disclosure, I do not currently own a Starlink, my suggestions is based off the paperwork and specs I can find online.
16ga 3ft will be fine for your dashcam. You can probably "piggy back" off your connection and add usb chargers etc to it. non-lit adapter/charger
If you plan to make the starlink connection in the back seat area. I would consider the 12ga due to the length as well as potential voltage drop.
If you have upgrades you are thinking about for the future. Consider the 12x2 and terminating in the back seat to a fuse panel. Something like this Blue sea panel. Blue Sea panel

I know I didn't answer your question. I wanted to offer a few different ideas to you. Maybe 1 will spark an idea for the future.

 

[Tex_Hunter]

Do you know where you want to mount your starlink? Do you know where you want to make the connection to the harness? Dash/backseat etc.
Do you have plan for future electrical upgrades?

Full disclosure, I do not currently own a Starlink, my suggestions is based off the paperwork and specs I can find online.
16ga 3ft will be fine for your dashcam. You can probably "piggy back" off your connection and add usb chargers etc to it. non-lit adapter/charger
If you plan to make the starlink connection in the back seat area. I would consider the 12ga due to the length as well as potential voltage drop.
If you have upgrades you are thinking about for the future. Consider the 12x2 and terminating in the back seat to a fuse panel. Something like this Blue sea panel. Blue Sea panel

I know I didn't answer your question. I wanted to offer a few different ideas to you. Maybe 1 will spark an idea for the future.

Thanks, this is actually super helpful, Starlink would go up on the 3rd brake light at the back of the cab (so back seat for the connection point). The back seat fuse panel is something I hadn’t considered but that’s probably the route I would go for ultimate flexibility. So the 12x2 (50A/50A) model seems like the best bet as I want to leave as many options as possible open for future adds.

 

[NEOHIO]

Thanks, this is actually super helpful, Starlink would go up on the 3rd brake light at the back of the cab (so back seat for the connection point). The back seat fuse panel is something I hadn’t considered but that’s probably the route I would go for ultimate flexibility. So the 12x2 (50A/50A) model seems like the best bet as I want to leave as many options as possible open for future adds.

I would go with the 12x1 3ft for the dash area. back seat area can go either 12x1 or 12x2, depends on what you want to do in the future. Unless you want the full 100a in the backseat.

 

[NEOHIO]

Thanks, this is actually super helpful, Starlink would go up on the 3rd brake light at the back of the cab (so back seat for the connection point). The back seat fuse panel is something I hadn’t considered but that’s probably the route I would go for ultimate flexibility. So the 12x2 (50A/50A) model seems like the best bet as I want to leave as many options as possible open for future adds.

On the starlink, @CaseyJ has some mounts for the headrest on his etsy store. Might be a better option than running wires thru the cab.
SubVetDesigns

 

[CaseyJ]

Thanks @NEOHIO!

I’m working on the 3rd brake light external mount similar to a swarfworks but not $1500 that you can pass the wires through.
The fold out mount for the back window is close but not out yet. It will be a plate for my MHP https://subvetdesigns.etsy.com/listing/4501191180