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Dash is easy to remove and reinstall.That's awesome. I can't even imagine tearing my dash apart like that. I would break something.
Inverter was $600ish. 4 Guage wires. Vents are on ends and lots of room back there when you remove the jack and jack mount.i love this, but how much was the onvertor and what wires did you use and looks like it is behind of the seat so which side and any over heating issues?
Top notch install. Very professionalTired of not being able to charge my Milwaukee batteries. Installed 2000 watt pure sine wave with remote. All is good in the world now. View attachment 23726
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new inverter
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I completely agree on the wire size, although I don’t plan on running much more than an couple of battery chargers. Reason I went with 2000 watt inverter is because I had it sitting on the shelf I ordered in for a customer and we ended up going a different route on his RV solar installation.very neat and tidy install. I do have a concern about the size of your wire though...
4 gauge wire is pretty small for a 2000w inverter, especially at that length. I'd want at least 2/0 cables. 2000W at 12V is 170a and max rating for 4 gauge wire is 150amps.
The OEM inverter wiring is 16 Guage wire. I was in the dash to add a 12 accessory plug in the top tray for electronics. It was much easier to run the wires for the plug and remote wiring.I have another question if you'll humour me.
Why did you have to tear into the dash. Was there no way to just 'replace' the OEM inverter and feed the dash and console outlets using the OEM wiring? I guess maybe there is a way but Ford probably has it all proprietary. I pulled the inverter out looking for cab access (ps there is a grommet under the inverter) but didn't really pay attention to the wiring.
Can you show how your 4 gauge wires attach to the battery? I assume you ran the wires straight thru the existing firewall grommet, was there any difficulty with available room in that hole? Any fitment issues hiding those cables all the way back to behind the rear seat?Inverter was $600ish. 4 Guage wires. Vents are on ends and lots of room back there when you remove the jack and jack mount.
Through floor plug under jack holder, over crossmember and ran it with large wiring bundle that runs on drivers side frame. Then up the firewall and connected to drivers side battery. I have the 7.3 with dual battery’s.Can you show how your 4 gauge wires attach to the battery? I assume you ran the wires straight thru the existing firewall grommet, was there any difficulty with available room in that hole? Any fitment issues hiding those cables all the way back to behind the rear seat?
I've been thinking of upgrading myself to a 2000W inverter. But I intend to draw close to 2000W at peak load, so I'll probably just leave the 400W in place and try to mount a new 2000W inverter closer to the front...since I do intend to draw close to 2000W at peak load, I'm hoping I can find a mount location to keep the distance to the battery low enough to use 1/0 wire and then from there just running some standard 14 gauge to the bed for a couple of 15A 120V outlets. If I need to go all the way from battery to back seat, I'm afraid I'll need at least 3/0 and I don't know how easy it will be to deal with cables that thick.
Best mod I’ve done so far.This is awesome! I've started to order parts to do this as well!
How tight is it behind the seat like that? I was planning on using a different inverter but it’s almost an inch deeper than yours. Did you screw it into the back wall?Tired of not being able to charge my Milwaukee batteries. Installed 2000 watt pure sine wave with remote. All is good in the world now. View attachment 23726
View attachment 23727
new inverter
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Should be ok, used tree plugs into back wall liner.How tight is it behind the seat like that? I was planning on using a different inverter but it’s almost an inch deeper than yours. Did you screw it into the back wall?
Cool ThanksShould be ok, used tree plugs into back wall liner.