Trailer Hooks don’t fit.....

The hammerlocks I bought are rated at 12,000# each. Exactly what the tag on the trailer chains say. Guess it depends on what your pulling.
 
My $0.02 - the hammerlocks look strong and robust, no doubt they are up to the job. I don't like that they are not removeable.

Locally, I found two 1/2" quick links and will try those. They are rated at 3,300#. They fit, but they don't hang vertical, so my OCD alarm went off. I don't think this is the best solution, but I will give it a whirl. I need something now because I am going to be using them on Monday.

On line, my wife found some quick links that are kinda triangular, but I could not find these locally.

Yeesh, these pics are huge! Anyway, HTH.


View attachment 22952View attachment 22953
Neither of these will stop a heavy trailer from free wheeling in the event of an uncoupling. Hammerlocks for the win
 
This is what I did. Probably the simplest way to fix the problem. This is my tow video but I started at the point where I talk about the tow hooks for you.
 
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Try This Method....???
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I'm sure I'll get flamed for this but here's my solution:

20210424_152239.jpg



Gave a slight extension to the chain which I needed, and also a very large/open hook to get into the receiver. They're each rated for quite a bit more then the chain is, and individually rated for several thousand pounds more than the total GVWR of my trailer. So for me I feel the margin of safety is quite a bit. I've seen dozens of videos with these hooks on winches doing way more work then they're rated for. At the end of the day I've made my piece with them and they make the work of putting the safety chains on/off very easy.

Flame away...
 
I'm sure I'll get flamed for this but here's my solution:

View attachment 22971

[/URL]

Gave a slight extension to the chain which I needed, and also a very large/open hook to get into the receiver. They're each rated for quite a bit more then the chain is, and individually rated for several thousand pounds more than the total GVWR of my trailer. So for me I feel the margin of safety is quite a bit. I've seen dozens of videos with these hooks on winches doing way more work then they're rated for. At the end of the day I've made my piece with them and they make the work of putting the safety chains on/off very easy.

Flame away...
Well all I can say is Genius! ? Certainly overkill but it sure solves the ongoing problem and for a pretty descent price. My HF says they are in stock so I guess I check them out. Only question is if they fit the 2.5"receiver the way they fit your 3". Fingers crossed.
 
This is what I did. Probably the simplest way to fix the problem. This is my tow video but I started at the point where I talk about he tow hooks for you.

You can do that if you have one, or two trailers. But every trailer I own has different hooks. In this case, It's easier to adapt the truck than it is all .. the trailers.
 
I'm sure I'll get flamed for this but here's my solution:

View attachment 22971


Gave a slight extension to the chain which I needed, and also a very large/open hook to get into the receiver. They're each rated for quite a bit more then the chain is, and individually rated for several thousand pounds more than the total GVWR of my trailer. So for me I feel the margin of safety is quite a bit. I've seen dozens of videos with these hooks on winches doing way more work then they're rated for. At the end of the day I've made my piece with them and they make the work of putting the safety chains on/off very easy.

Flame away...

No flame from me. It does the job, and it does it well. A simple solution to a .. not difficult problem, but certainly one thats a pain in the ass. As I mentioned before, towing one, or two different trailers is one thing. Towing several different trailer, renting one, moving your friends boat, whatever, that change the game.
 
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I'm sure I'll get flamed for this but here's my solution:

View attachment 22971

[/URL]

Gave a slight extension to the chain which I needed, and also a very large/open hook to get into the receiver. They're each rated for quite a bit more then the chain is, and individually rated for several thousand pounds more than the total GVWR of my trailer. So for me I feel the margin of safety is quite a bit. I've seen dozens of videos with these hooks on winches doing way more work then they're rated for. At the end of the day I've made my piece with them and they make the work of putting the safety chains on/off very easy.

Flame away...
Is yours a 2.5” hitch or 3”?
 
I did a bit of reading last evening, because I was concerned about what strength my safety chains, and safety chain connections, are supposed to have.

I am assuming that the chains that are supplied with the trailer are adequate. The trailer is new, a 2021 Grand Design. It’s gross weight is 11,400#, or thereabouts.

Each chain is supposed to have a breaking strength of at least the trailer weight. My quick links have a working load of 3,300#, but have a safety factor of 5:1. Therefore the breaking strength is 5 times that, or 16,500#. I confirmed this on the Curt hitch website. Also found other information that supports this.

Trailering equipment seems to be governed not only by federal law, but also by state laws. My state, for example, only requires that you have one safety chain. Other states require two.

I’m being a bit cautious about all of this because this new trailer I’m buying will be the largest and heaviest trailer I have ever used. That said, my quick link solution is what I can get right now and will use to get my trailer home. After that, I am continuing my search for a permanent solution.
 
If using a D-ring you can use a cotter ring. Can feed through the hole and around ring .No sharp edges to rip you up. They are used in marine applications. Better than cotter pin, Removable without pliers. Pin can not turn. Just have to size by size of D-ring and clevis pin. Hard to explain hookup so here is an article. They use a split ring but cotter ring is easier.

Example.... https://eoceanic.com/sailing/tips/ALL/68/
Is this the type of ring you recommend? If so, is it easier that the split ring just bc it’s easier to separate it enough to slide through the pin hole? Thanks!
E3514C2D-8697-4DD4-8682-ACA4EF61E654.jpeg
 
There are several styles of cotter rings but all do the same thing. They are nice for the ground tackle on a boat so you don't rip your hand if you have to handle the rode and chain. Easy to disconnect and install. Neddle nose pliers help on small ones.

It is not just breaking strength that is important in a trailer. Shock load is an important thing to consider too.

I like this shape because they are smoother.
 

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It is not just breaking strength that is important in a trailer. Shock load is an important thing to consider too.

@Ustank2 I'm assuming that this comment relates to the trailer hooks discussion. I read thru a fair amount of material last evening and did not encounter the term "shock load". What exactly is shock load, and how do you know what the shock load is for a given trailer weight?
 
So does anyone know if a guy can change from the 2.5" to a factory 3" receiver? I'm just thinking, what if I took one off a truck that was wrecked.
 
I bought these:


Probably overkill, but they fit and are tight enough where they aren't moving around when I have them on the truck. I wanted the ability of taking them off the truck since I'm not towing all the time, which is why I didn't go the hammerlock route.

They fit the tow hooks upfront as well, so can serve as a beefy shackle if you need pulled out.
 
I did a bit of reading last evening, because I was concerned about what strength my safety chains, and safety chain connections, are supposed to have.

I am assuming that the chains that are supplied with the trailer are adequate. The trailer is new, a 2021 Grand Design. It’s gross weight is 11,400#, or thereabouts.

Each chain is supposed to have a breaking strength of at least the trailer weight. My quick links have a working load of 3,300#, but have a safety factor of 5:1. Therefore the breaking strength is 5 times that, or 16,500#. I confirmed this on the Curt hitch website. Also found other information that supports this.

Trailering equipment seems to be governed not only by federal law, but also by state laws. My state, for example, only requires that you have one safety chain. Other states require two.

I’m being a bit cautious about all of this because this new trailer I’m buying will be the largest and heaviest trailer I have ever used. That said, my quick link solution is what I can get right now and will use to get my trailer home. After that, I am continuing my search for a permanent solution.
Consider the 20,000 (breaking strength) D ring I posted a picture of earlier It accepts large hooks perfectly, and is great for other recovery uses. For instance, it is really easy to connect a recovery strap to it with a 3/4" shackle. I'm running 1/2" safety chains and large hooks that barely worked in the stock hitch holes. Hooking up has never been easier. I looked for a practical solution for a while, before deciding on the D ring.
 
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