Towing question

[Phil314]

Have a towing question. In the past I've towed a 14k equipment trailer with either a bobcat or mini ex on it.
Actual weight was around 13 - 13.5k. Tremor towed it great with no problems using just a regular hitch.

I'll be moving in about 6 months. Considering buy an 8.5 x 20 or so enclosed cargo trailer for the move.
Most of those are rated 10k or 12k. Would like a 14k, but they are hard to find.
Anyway, what are opinions on towing this kind of trailer compared to above.
Do I need or should I use a WDH for an enclosed trailer?? WDH with sway control??

 

[Fozzy]

I have a 5" lift and 37" tires on my Tremor 7.3 and tow a 24' enclosed trailer. I am just under 10K if I have everything in it. I feel the sway with the wind or big trucks pretty bad, but general smooth highway it's fine.. I have air bags and it helps. But I don't think I want a WDH, but kinda want to add the rear sway bar. If you are level or stock it would not be as bad. Compared to towing equipment the weight is the same, but the surface area for the wind and drag is what gets you. I even get worse gas milage with the enclosed vs the open trailer towing the same weight just because of the aerodynamics of the big box.

 

[Rolind]

A common opinion on towing forums is that the greater the sail area of the trailer, and the less aerodynamic it is, the higher likelihood of sway. You could sure give it a try wo sway control and see how it tows. The following is a great video, albeit from a company that makes WDHs, that explains the difference between using a WDH vs airbags to correct squat when towing. I suspect when all is said and done you may end up with a WDH and antisway. Happy trails!

 

[Churchkey]

I pull a 33 ft Toy Hauler weighing just over 10k pounds and use a WD hitch from Weigh-safe. It pulls like a dream. The only excitement I experience is if I'm getting a strong side wind, like driving through the Badlands.

 

[Phil314]

A common opinion on towing forums is that the greater the sail area of the trailer, and the less aerodynamic it is, the higher likelihood of sway. You could sure give it a try wo sway control and see how it tows. The following is a great video, albeit from a company that makes WDHs, that explains the difference between using a WDH vs airbags to correct squat when towing. I suspect when all is said and done you may end up with a WDH and antisway. Happy trails!

To add a bit more detail to this - my truck is stock height with stock tires and a rear swaybar installed.
Towing the 14k equipment trailer, @ about 2000+ lbs tongue weight, the truck still isn't squating.
So I'm not worried about total weight or squatting.

My main concern is the increased chance of sway caused by the greater sail area of an enclosed trailer.
Most of the anti-sway solutions unfortunately are done with WDH. That's my main reason for looking at them.
Any good anti-sway options without the WDH?
Or am I seeing a problem where there isn't one??

 

[HeavyAssault]

How far you going?? Close by ( a few hours??) might just drive slower. Big run over 1,000 miles...might be a better idea to get a WDH of some sorts.

 

[Rolind]

The main point of the video I posted above is that airbags correct squat but increase the weight on the rear axle and decrease the weight on the steering axle beyond what occurs with no airbags. On the other hand WDHs correct squat with decreasing weight on the rear axle and restoring weight to the steering axle, which is the preferred solution to squat.

 

[Ceerix]

Are you more the guy: "NO risk, NO fun" or "Safety first"?

 

[The Evil Twin]

Short box with a 20+ box trailer, I would get a decent (not over the top) WDH. That's just a personal opinion. I think Ford recommends one >5k but I could be off base there.
If your long term plan is using it for short- haul use, maybe skip it. Long highway hauls will be much more relaxing with one. I had a 20' that ran about 9k loaded. Towed about 8k a year with a long box Super Duty. It was loaded correctly for tongue weight. After adding a Blue Ox WDH the ride was phenomenal. One hand steering in crosswinds, passing or getting passed. When we upgraded to a 35' toy hauler, the only thing we had to buy was higher rated spring bars.

 

[HelmPilot]

I too have a high box 28’ car hauler/cargo trailer. There are so many factors that affect sway you will need to work through it for yourself to decide the cost versus benefit of each “tweak” you make to your rig. That being said you already know your Tremor can handle the weight you are contemplating. While I have a WD rig I don’t always use it. You need to start with the basics which IMHO are;

1) Know your weight and Balance numbers. shoot for equal weight on each axle of the trailer and hopefully that will give you 12 - 15% tongue weight. Equal weight on each axle tire is far more important than a perfectly level trailer. Without these accurate numbers you cannot begin to effectively fine tune your rig.
2) Don’t cheap out on Trailer Tires! Stiff sidewall trailer rated 8 or even better 10 ply tires provide amazing anti sway properties, but they are not cheap. The same can be said for your truck. Make sure your truck tires are aired up to maximum rating which stiffens the sidewalls.
3) A good rear sway bar on the truck would be my next step as well as making sure my trailer spring shackle bushings are not worn or gapped.
4) Don’t be afraid to add cargo weight in the bed of the truck if the tongue weight isn’t sagging the truck below level. The goal here again with accurate scale numbers is to equal the weight on front and rear axles of the truck. It’s why we add weight in the winter to improve traction.
5) Make sure you are practiced using trailer brakes alone to settle down an errant trailer.
6) If your trailer has a flat box front consider an aerodynamic add on panel to the nose of the trailer.

Remember WD systems fundamentally shift weight to the front axle of the truck. The secondary effect is the added sway control you get from the friction at the contact point of the weight bars. They don’t eliminate sway they resist it. The better alternative is to make the changes that minimize or eliminate it vs resisting it. A good rule of thumb might be as the trailer GCVW gets lighter the possible need for sway resistance increases. Heavier trailers are far less subject to side suction sway.

 

[Phil314]

Are you more the guy: "NO risk, NO fun" or "Safety first"?

Lol, I'm the worst combination of both.
I have to really over think and over research every little decision first.
And after I've done that - I'll just send it and pray for the best.
It's all about anticipating the consequences of my bad decision, not about making better decisions up front.

 

[Phil314]

How far you going?? Close by ( a few hours??) might just drive slower. Big run over 1,000 miles...might be a better idea to get a WDH of some sorts.

Yes, out of state. Most likely 10+ hrs. And multiple trips 3-4.
Advice so far seems to favor WDH for longer trips, if only for more sway control.
Just more unknowns that short in town trips.

I actually considered a gooseneck enclosed trailer.
But they are stupid expensive and no real increase in payload because of the weight of the trailer.

 

[RS90]

I've had my 8.5x20 enclosed trailer for about 10 years now and never used a WDH hitch on it. The wheel base is so short and the side area is nothing compared to most campers. It's also way closer to the ground compared to most campers. I've had no issues with sway and I've pulled it across the country a few times and several thousand miles of interstate travel in Wisconsin. The V nose on the front makes it get similar fuel mileage to pulling my UTV on my open deck car hauler. Mine is a 10K trailer and I've had it loaded up close to 10K total a few times.

 

[Blade420Play🔪🏆]

Lol, I'm the worst combination of both.
I have to really over think and over research every little decision first.
And after I've done that - I'll just send it and pray for the best.
It's all about anticipating the consequences of my bad decision, not about making better decisions up front.

Same. Plan, plan, plan, fek the plan. Nothing ever goes as planned

 

[The Evil Twin]

The best plan leads to Hell!
Or is that good intentions?
Either way, I'm driving the bus!

 

[gmbpilot757]

Advice so far seems to favor WDH for longer trips, if only for more sway control.

Not all WDH offer sway control. In fact most do not. We have the Equalizer WDH which I believe is the only WDH/sway combo. WDH are solely for getting weight back on the steering axle.

 

[The Evil Twin]

There are several that do. Fast way, Reese, Anderson and Blue Ox to name a few.

 

[Modman]

Not all WDH offer sway control. In fact most do not. We have the Equalizer WDH which I believe is the only WDH/sway combo. WDH are solely for getting weight back on the steering axle.

Weighsafe Truetow does as well. Very similar design to the Equalizer.