Anyone adapt their 3rd brake light to double-function as a running light?

You can mod the black filler plate to hold the three LEDs. Even better when you buy the dual function LEDs, just tap the HIGH STOP wire for the Stop light function.
I was able to get all the wiring tucked under the black filler plate. Wired everything up, works great!


I think it would be awesome to build a custom PCBA that keeps the LEDs at max brightness as clearance lights, then connects all the way across as a brake like (like Robocop)

Running light:

[--] [--] [--]


Brake light:

[-----------------------]

Similar to the GoRecon ones when the brake is applied:

1741712481161.webp
 
@DrSpeed : With the dual function LED ones you could do that. Just wire the running light power to the LED high side power.
I had to figure out which wire controlled what function.
 
As others mentioned, the OEM Raptor brake light is a two-stage light. The three dots function as DOT required clearance lights at night when the running lights are on. When you apply the brakes, it gets brighter.

If you just plug and play the Raptor brake light on these trucks, it will function as a stop light only, you won't have the running lights.

If you want the running lights to work, you'll need to run a wire from either:

1. Cab Lights (if equipped)
2. Tail Lamp
3. Trailer plug

I'm running a GJ Motorsports 3rd Brake Light on my F-250 and my 3 dots function as my brake light. I've been talking about adding the running light wire for years, just never got around to doing it.
 
Any luck from BoostedGreyGoose?

I have my old Raptor brake light. I also saw that FB thread, so tried to get it hooked up only to see the four pin instead of three pin setup.

Of course, I broke my 250 light in the process (the soldering snapped with virtually zero pressure). I was talking with Grey Goose and he said that it would be a lot of work, but it seems like there would be power somewhere in the headliner if not the grey plug at the third brake light.

I'm about to just order a Morimoto
 
Any luck from BoostedGreyGoose?

I have my old Raptor brake light. I also saw that FB thread, so tried to get it hooked up only to see the four pin instead of three pin setup.

Of course, I broke my 250 light in the process (the soldering snapped with virtually zero pressure). I was talking with Grey Goose and he said that it would be a lot of work, but it seems like there would be power somewhere in the headliner if not the grey plug at the third brake light.

I'm about to just order a Morimoto
We've got them in stock if you want to grab the Morimoto setup: https://apollooffroad.com/products/x3b-led-brake-light-ford-f150-super-duty-ranger-15-23
 
I have the GJ (Swarfworks) 3rd brake light. From what I read somewhere you just need to tap the running light circuit. I'd just need to get the raptor harness to plug into my brake light. I wanted to do this, but don't think I need the DRW light and raptor light lol.
 
Would be pretty cool to have a PnP option that taps into the cab light harness, my understanding is it is in the passenger A pillar
 
I have the Swarf 3rd brake light, (which might just be the nicest aftermarket item on my truck) but it comes with an LVJ harness, they also make this, https://www.lvjmotorsports.com/product-page/3rd-brake-light-led-wire-harness which allows you to tap into the truck's 3rd brake connector, it has the diodes and resisters to attenuate the voltage for running lights and protect for back flow. I have not done it yet but the 2 outboard S2 chase lights could be run off one wire, and the extra blue in the Swarf supplied harness could be plugged into the BCM for running lights. If you do not have an aftermarket 3rd brake light you might be able to make this work but you will have to figure it out.
BTW, as a shameless plug for @Nick@ApolloOff-Road i bought almost this complete build, Innov8, Baja Designs, SDHQ, Carli etc from him as he not only always on here, but has been a HUGE help for questions like this and advice directly.
 
I have the Swarf 3rd brake light, (which might just be the nicest aftermarket item on my truck) but it comes with an LVJ harness, they also make this, https://www.lvjmotorsports.com/product-page/3rd-brake-light-led-wire-harness which allows you to tap into the truck's 3rd brake connector, it has the diodes and resisters to attenuate the voltage for running lights and protect for back flow. I have not done it yet but the 2 outboard S2 chase lights could be run off one wire, and the extra blue in the Swarf supplied harness could be plugged into the BCM for running lights. If you do not have an aftermarket 3rd brake light you might be able to make this work but you will have to figure it out.
BTW, as a shameless plug for @Nick@ApolloOff-Road i bought almost this complete build, Innov8, Baja Designs, SDHQ, Carli etc from him as he not only always on here, but has been a HUGE help for questions like this and advice directly.
Ok I’m in the process of figuring this out as well. Maybe I should reach out to Nick as well. Since the other guys are more raptor focused.
 
Ok I’m in the process of figuring this out as well. Maybe I should reach out to Nick as well. Since the other guys are more raptor focused.
He has been incredibly helpful. That said the LVJ harness and a Swarf 3rd brake is all you need. I guess you could use the factory light but you are going to have to run a 3rd wire to the BCM and connect it to your parking lights. That is assuming the factory LEDs are dimmable or function with what ever reduced voltage LVJ has created with their resistors.
 
Ok so I was able to accomplish the BCM tap and installation of the LVJ 3rd brake light harness. It should all be working properly. However, the center LED on the SWARFWORKS light is different than the other 2. As you will see in the picture below it works perfectly with 2 lights. I’m waiting to hear back from Paul. Keith from LVJ was awesome! He went completely out of his way to coach me through the whole process. I truly felt bad for how many questions I had.

As far as location of the correct wire at the BCM. It took about 45 minutes to figure out which was the correct wire. I first had to figure out how to remove the cover to the wire. Then I removed the plug from the BCM. Ensure the vehicle is off. Once I removed the plug I was able to remove the cover. I also removed some of the electrical tape to better expose the wires. Then I proceeded to ground the negative of the voltmeter. I used the grounding nut and loosened it up to where I could hand tighten it down keeping it in place. That allowed me to only manage the positive. Kieth recommended using a sewing needle to make better access. I unfortunately did not have one on hand. I was able to stick my volt meter in between the wires and test with the parking lights on and off looking for the correct wire. It should be about 12.45 volts with the parking lights on then 0 with them off. Once I located the correct wire I used a wire tap.

Adapting the harness was another task. Keith advised me to cut the harness by the S2s. Then splice both blue and yellow wires together and use the single yellow wire for both amber S2s this was the tied into a pass through wire and added to Aux 5. This freed up the blue wire to be used for the wire tap at the BCM and the purple/blue wire of the LVJ 3rd brake light harness. The pink wire from the harness get tapped into the positive of the factory 3rd brake light harness from the truck. The Black from that side goes to the black from factory harness. The other end of the LVJ 3rd brake light harness is a positive and a negative wire. These go to the SWARFWORKS harness for the 3 red LEDs. My wires are black but I was able to follow from the ford wires. I tapped these on the extension in case I screwed up.

I hope this all makes sense. Please feel free to hit me up with any questions. I will update the thread as I get more information.
 

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Additionally if I was to do it over, I would have purchased the harness that has Aux and reverse. This would make a cleaner installation. It would make it so you have a dedicated wire run for the running lights instead of having to splice the amber S2s. When I add the star link I might replace the entire harness to make it perfect.
 
Ok I spoke with Paul at SWARFWORKS. Turns out that there are a couple center lights that have a higher resistance which is why it’s not working. He immediately shipped me a new one that I am willing to swap on my own. He also offered to have me ship it to him so he could do the work.

As soon as I receive it and reinstall everything I will update again. I completely recommend doing this. It looks great in the picture but even better in person. If I can do this any one can.
 
I have the Swarf 3rd brake light, (which might just be the nicest aftermarket item on my truck) but it comes with an LVJ harness, they also make this, https://www.lvjmotorsports.com/product-page/3rd-brake-light-led-wire-harness which allows you to tap into the truck's 3rd brake connector, it has the diodes and resisters to attenuate the voltage for running lights and protect for back flow. I have not done it yet but the 2 outboard S2 chase lights could be run off one wire, and the extra blue in the Swarf supplied harness could be plugged into the BCM for running lights. If you do not have an aftermarket 3rd brake light you might be able to make this work but you will have to figure it out.
BTW, as a shameless plug for @Nick@ApolloOff-Road i bought almost this complete build, Innov8, Baja Designs, SDHQ, Carli etc from him as he not only always on here, but has been a HUGE help for questions like this and advice directly.
Man - I cannot wait to see your truck complete once those Innov8s get in! Appreciate the kind words and support!
Ok I’m in the process of figuring this out as well. Maybe I should reach out to Nick as well. Since the other guys are more raptor focused.
Happy to help any time. While we carry parts for all makes and models, Raptor and Super Duty are our specialties. Between our team members, we have 3 Raptors and 3 Super Duties. All of which are highly modified so we can help point folks in the right direction for their builds.
 
Well I am finally done!! It works perfectly!

So as an update from my previous post. You can see that there is a difference in the LEDs that came with it. Normally I would have never noticed as they were identical when the brake was applied. However the two outside LEDs operate at a lower resistance not allowing the center light to activate. Paul helped me figure out this issue. I felt comfortable removing the LEDs. I chose to solder the wires together because the wires are so small. Then I used heat shrink to cover the joints. Everything went in very easily.

Additionally, I am not sure I’m not sure that I mentioned before. For the LVJ 3rd brake light harness the instructions are to tie into the positive and negative of the SWARFWORKS LEDs. I was originally cautious about doing this. So I tapped into the adapter on the positive and negative. I think it worked out better.

I hope everything I have posted makes sense. Please feel free to hit me up with any questions as I have literally taken apart and rebuilt the entire light.
 

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Been a minute but anyone suppose that there’s an option in forscan to select the 3rd brake light type?
 
I doubt it based on the wiring I had to do.
I think SwarfWorks updated their wiring between you and me; I thankfully did not have to do all of what you did. I just used the LVJ harness and those red LEDs became brake and running lights.

As for ForScan; I did not see anything there before I swapped to the SW, but I did not hunt too thoroughly after a few googles that told me that its more a physical thing//limitation//made that way on other models than a software setting. I don’t see anything when I was looking after that for a way to remove my centre S2 from the approach lighting. I’m no FORscan guru though.

I ended up just putting a bunch of headlight film over it to avoid a tactical flashlight to the eyes when I walked behind the truck. 😂
 
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