Vermonster’s Thread! (Life with a SD Tremor)

Today I added the Garmin mini 2 dash cam. I also added a polarized lens cover. This is suppose to really reduce glare. I didn’t try it without it, but watched a few boring videos about it.

Can’t wait to play with this and share some videos with you all!

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This might be a stupid question…or maybe it is just me that is stupid. Any chance that power distribution block could take power from a NOCO boost if the batteries under the hood die? Looking to swap in a passenger handle on the driver door and want to be able to jump start from the bed of the truck in the case my batteries somehow go dead (required by the wife to do this security modification)
I have no idea. But that’s a super interesting thought! I imagine it would in part be determined by whether or not your cabling to the block is high enough gauge for the amperage for the starter? Not sure!!
 
I have no idea. But that’s a super interesting thought! I imagine it would in part be determined by whether or not your cabling to the block is high enough gauge for the amperage for the starter? Not sure!!
That was my concern too. When I was in high school I tested some 12" JL Audio subs by running a very small gauge wire from the speakers to the amp. After I turned up the volume - the wires got hot in my hands - I dropped them - they then caught on fire!

Thankfully it was a bench test on a concrete floor, and not something I was doing in the car. lol I was a little smarter after that situation.
 
That was my concern too. When I was in high school I tested some 12" JL Audio subs by running a very small gauge wire from the speakers to the amp. After I turned up the volume - the wires got hot in my hands - I dropped them - they then caught on fire!

Thankfully it was a bench test on a concrete floor, and not something I was doing in the car. lol I was a little smarter after that situation.
That’s a fantastic story and life lesson though! Would be fun to do the same experiment with a fuse now too! 😅
 
Ok team. I am hoping to get some of the ARB instal down today. At least powering it. I plan to use an Upfitter switch and come back to the ARB. I do NOT plan on using the ARB switch. I need some advice as to which switch to use. I decided not to run a power block to the bed yet.

Thank you in advance!
 
Ok team. I am hoping to get some of the ARB instal down today. At least powering it. I plan to use an Upfitter switch and come back to the ARB. I do NOT plan on using the ARB switch. I need some advice as to which switch to use. I decided not to run a power block to the bed yet.

Thank you in advance!
Let me know if the power supply harness is long enough to make it from the upfitter box to the bed. I am thinking I might need to buy an extension
 
Ok team. I am hoping to get some of the ARB instal down today. At least powering it. I plan to use an Upfitter switch and come back to the ARB. I do NOT plan on using the ARB switch. I need some advice as to which switch to use. I decided not to run a power block to the bed yet.

Thank you in advance!
I recommend building your own trigger wire to connect to the upfitter (as listed on the parts list for my install) for turning it on/off with an upfitter.

Now, for powering the compressor, the positive/red power harness can be extended directly to the battery using this..
 
I need some advice as to which switch to use.
I think switch 3 or 4 are best as 1, 2, 5, & 6 are easier for quick access things that you might need while driving and not want/need to look. Seldom you will need the ARB quickly so you can look and turn on the right one easily. I left these for things that I would want to turn on or off while driving (air horn, lights, flashers, etc). Also don't want to use the pump without the truck on as it pulls a lot of power so I kept it off 5 and 6 as well. Actually haven't used 5 or 6 as haven't found something I would use with truck off, maybe backup lights once/if I install some.

That is at least my thought process.
 
Let me know if the power supply harness is long enough to make it from the upfitter box to the bed. I am thinking I might need to buy an extension
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I’ll let you know! I plan on running some of this today.
 
I think switch 3 or 4 are best as 1, 2, 5, & 6 are easier for quick access things that you might need while driving and not want/need to look. Seldom you will need the ARB quickly so you can look and turn on the right one easily. I left these for things that I would want to turn on or off while driving (air horn, lights, flashers, etc). Also don't want to use the pump without the truck on as it pulls a lot of power so I kept it off 5 and 6 as well. Actually haven't used 5 or 6 as haven't found something I would use with truck off, maybe backup lights once/if I install some.

That is at least my thought process.
I agree with all your logic. I have my compressor on 3 (not power, just the switched relay). And I have my forward lights on 1 and my flasher on 6.

Planning to put the air horn on 4 and leave it on (using the limitless kit). But if I want to turn it off before hitting the horn I can reach up and easily swipe “back” to do a hands free turn off of the air horn if I just need a small beep. Turning a middle switch on without looking is hard. Turning it off is easy.
 
So - looks like I’ll need the power extension to meet the ARB in the front of the bed, or put a power block in the bed, which is the best path, I believe. That way the future is bright! Plus I like doing things for myself before I need them.

Rats!!! I had hoped I could get some items done today while I had a few free hours.

It seems like the tops of my batteries are slightly wet with acid. Anyone seeing that in their truck?

On the bright side I found a top hat for my BuiltRight shorty antenna. 😉
 

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I agree with all your logic. I have my compressor on 3 (not power, just the switched relay). And I have my forward lights on 1 and my flasher on 6.

Planning to put the air horn on 4 and leave it on (using the limitless kit). But if I want to turn it off before hitting the horn I can reach up and easily swipe “back” to do a hands free turn off of the air horn if I just need a small beep. Turning a middle switch on without looking is hard. Turning it off is easy.
Good point and agree that off is much easier.
 
I recommend building your own trigger wire to connect to the upfitter (as listed on the parts list for my install) for turning it on/off with an upfitter.

Now, for powering the compressor, the positive/red power harness can be extended directly to the battery using this..
Just ordered the extension. 😎
 
Good logic on the switch choices. Since I didn’t do ARB, and went Viair with a 2.5 gallon tank, I put it on switch 6, so I could easily hit it, and also run it to start filling it whether the truck is on or off. If I had just the ARB with no tank setup, makes sense to place it on a switch that’s not “as easy” to switch while driving. Have fun wiring everything!
 
Good logic on the switch choices. Since I didn’t do ARB, and went Viair with a 2.5 gallon tank, I put it on switch 6, so I could easily hit it, and also run it to start filling it whether the truck is on or off. If I had just the ARB with no tank setup, makes sense to place it on a switch that’s not “as easy” to switch while driving. Have fun wiring everything!
Interesting. Should I change my thinking? I have the 2.5 gallon tank too.
 
Interesting. Should I change my thinking? I have the 2.5 gallon tank too.
In theory if the system is tight, your tank will maintain pressure while the system is not in use. If I knew the system was leaking, it would bother me enough to chase it down and fix. Just my thoughts.
 
I like having the option to run it with the truck off. Sometimes I want to fill up some tires and I don’t want the truck to have to be sitting there idling while I use the compressor. Or air up something quick and don’t want to have to start the truck to do it.

It just comes down to what you want to do. I use the first 4 switches for various lights (or waiting for the lights). My mind works more by organization. My setup is this (not everything is bought yet, but the concept) 1 - front lights/light bar; 2 - fog light pocket lights; 3 - ditch lights/A-pillar; 4 - reverse lights; 5 - undecided; 6 - air compressor/air bag setup
 
I added 2 small switches on the dash, next to the steering wheel, in the small flat panel area, one for an air horn and one for the rock lights I have installed. Didn’t want to waste an upfitter spot for those. My air horn isn’t used often, and is mostly for fun, so that’s why I put it over there
 
In theory if the system is tight, your tank will maintain pressure while the system is not in use. If I knew the system was leaking, it would bother me enough to chase it down and fix. Just my thoughts.
True. But I don’t use my system often, and I don’t like driving around with a full tank of air. Just me
 
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