What did you do to your Tremor today?

Finally got around to finishing the install on the ARB twin compressor from the group buy a while back. Got a bunch of wire, some braided loom, and a switch installed. Ran wires along the passenger side frame rail, above the spare, and up the passenger tail light cubby..
This looks good and I’m looking at something very similar on a Built Right plate on the forward passenger side in the bed. Couple questions if you don’t mind?

First, were you not worried about a voltage drop running wires that far? Any performance drop in the compressor? What size (AWG) wire did you use? The manual talks about the risk of longer wires being lower performance…

Next, it didn’t look like you used the Ford up-fitter switches. Is this because you didn’t have them or you preferred to use the ARB switch?

Did the Built Right panel slots match up to the compressor bolt pattern or did you have to rig it somehow?

Thanks!
 
My KD Fabworks bracket finally arrived so I got my BD Onx6+ 10” light bar installed. Now the only thing I’m waiting for are my personalized plates to come!
1F414985-3B68-4521-9301-4C6A4BC42676.jpeg
76643E70-5315-4516-A4AB-EC17AF610ECD.jpeg
 
This looks good and I’m looking at something very similar on a Built Right plate on the forward passenger side in the bed. Couple questions if you don’t mind?

First, were you not worried about a voltage drop running wires that far? Any performance drop in the compressor? What size (AWG) wire did you use? The manual talks about the risk of longer wires being lower performance…

Next, it didn’t look like you used the Ford up-fitter switches. Is this because you didn’t have them or you preferred to use the ARB switch?

Did the Built Right panel slots match up to the compressor bolt pattern or did you have to rig it somehow?

Thanks!

Happy to answer any questions!

I wasn't worried about voltage drop. I'd say it's about 20' from front to back and I used copper 6awg for power and ground. I ended up cutting each end of the supplies harness and splicing each end onto the 6awg wire. I haven't noticed any performance decrease with it being that far away. I can check voltage at the back of the truck tomorrow if you'd like.

I didn't bother to use the upfitter switch in this case because I felt like since it was all the way in the bed of the truck I wouldn't want to have to have the extra step of going into the cab and hitting the switch to turn it on and off. I bought my own switch from Amazon to use instead of the ARB one. I found it was too big and bulky for my interest. Plus I didn't want to cut a big rectangular hole in the bed to make it work.

Unfortunately the built right panels didn't match up perfectly so I had to do my best to match up some of the slots with 2 of the holes then use 1/4" fender washers to secure the bottom 2 bolts. Not ideal. But I didn't want to drill more holes into the built right panel.

The compressor is very secure and when it runs it doesn't vibrate as much as I expected it would. I'm confident the way I mounted it will be plenty sturdy and won't come loose.
 
Color matched the grille, mirror caps and door handles. Blacked out 6.7 power stroke emblem, window trim, running board trims and tailgate handles. Blk/white Ford logos, black/white tail gate, blk/white F350 fender emblem. Smoked headlights, tail lights, mirror side markers and clearance lights. Next up will be the 5” monster exhaust in black and the install of an S&B cold air intake.
 

Attachments

  • 46E97CC2-F004-4496-9750-E64029CD0EB3.jpeg
    46E97CC2-F004-4496-9750-E64029CD0EB3.jpeg
    286.5 KB · Views: 150
  • 858E860D-50FF-4620-BAB0-ED2B5AE0DC1E.jpeg
    858E860D-50FF-4620-BAB0-ED2B5AE0DC1E.jpeg
    231.4 KB · Views: 140
  • 8F41110C-02A9-4686-837D-7B60E2F1413E.jpeg
    8F41110C-02A9-4686-837D-7B60E2F1413E.jpeg
    239 KB · Views: 138
  • B4C80DFA-EB92-4E3C-9C41-03A35C7B399C.jpeg
    B4C80DFA-EB92-4E3C-9C41-03A35C7B399C.jpeg
    215.6 KB · Views: 128
  • 2E5A17CB-C42A-43A4-AB42-6E53C26A7C49.jpeg
    2E5A17CB-C42A-43A4-AB42-6E53C26A7C49.jpeg
    180.1 KB · Views: 127
  • 9EDF1BE0-2B6E-40E8-BAFA-4260CD997EF7.jpeg
    9EDF1BE0-2B6E-40E8-BAFA-4260CD997EF7.jpeg
    201.2 KB · Views: 129
  • BB0B82F4-30DF-4BC9-A384-C6C3E80A2B15.jpeg
    BB0B82F4-30DF-4BC9-A384-C6C3E80A2B15.jpeg
    280.6 KB · Views: 124
  • 8871C921-C3F2-41A3-BBBB-24DE0545DF71.jpeg
    8871C921-C3F2-41A3-BBBB-24DE0545DF71.jpeg
    251.7 KB · Views: 131
  • 3B52272C-C4B2-44BC-9DA2-DB39C7DB6524.jpeg
    3B52272C-C4B2-44BC-9DA2-DB39C7DB6524.jpeg
    232 KB · Views: 140
Color matched the grille, mirror caps and door handles. Blacked out 6.7 power stroke emblem, window trim, running board trims and tailgate handles. Blk/white Ford logos, black/white tail gate, blk/white F350 fender emblem. Smoked headlights, tail lights, mirror side markers and clearance lights. Next up will be the 5” monster exhaust in black and the install of an S&B cold air intake.
What exactly did you do to the headlights? To be so black.
 
Color matched the grille, mirror caps and door handles. Blacked out 6.7 power stroke emblem, window trim, running board trims and tailgate handles. Blk/white Ford logos, black/white tail gate, blk/white F350 fender emblem. Smoked headlights, tail lights, mirror side markers and clearance lights. Next up will be the 5” monster exhaust in black and the install of an S&B cold air intake.
Daytime pics? Which window trim are you referring to?
 
What exactly did you do to the headlights? To be so black.
the guys over Diamond Auto used a what he called a “black clear”. He said they add black to the clear and lay a couple coats, depending on how dark the customer wants. I did one coat only. My buddy did three coats on his and that was way too dark for me.
 
the guys over Diamond Auto used a what he called a “black clear”. He said they add black to the clear and lay a couple coats, depending on how dark the customer wants. I did one coat only. My buddy did three coats on his and that was way too dark for me.
Does it affect the amount of light to the road. I assume it's applied on the outside?
 

Attachments

  • 6F6CBF3D-003C-4C50-A820-4DB80B7587F0.jpeg
    6F6CBF3D-003C-4C50-A820-4DB80B7587F0.jpeg
    115.2 KB · Views: 92
  • 2A0AD0A1-C023-4584-BE79-4E9A57FA1671.jpeg
    2A0AD0A1-C023-4584-BE79-4E9A57FA1671.jpeg
    131 KB · Views: 92
Does it affect the amount of light to the road. I assume it's applied on the outside?
It’s on the outside. I didn’t notice a difference. Like I said I did one coat. I drove my buddy’s 20’ F450 from AZ to CA at night and I could definitely notice the lack of light on his, he did 3 coats.
 
Happy to answer any questions!

I wasn't worried about voltage drop. I'd say it's about 20' from front to back and I used copper 6awg for power and ground. I ended up cutting each end of the supplies harness and splicing each end onto the 6awg wire. I haven't noticed any performance decrease with it being that far away. I can check voltage at the back of the truck tomorrow if you'd like.

I didn't bother to use the upfitter switch in this case because I felt like since it was all the way in the bed of the truck I wouldn't want to have to have the extra step of going into the cab and hitting the switch to turn it on and off. I bought my own switch from Amazon to use instead of the ARB one. I found it was too big and bulky for my interest. Plus I didn't want to cut a big rectangular hole in the bed to make it work.

Unfortunately the built right panels didn't match up perfectly so I had to do my best to match up some of the slots with 2 of the holes then use 1/4" fender washers to secure the bottom 2 bolts. Not ideal. But I didn't want to drill more holes into the built right panel.

The compressor is very secure and when it runs it doesn't vibrate as much as I expected it would. I'm confident the way I mounted it will be plenty sturdy and won't come loose.
This is great feedback thank you very much. Do you mind saying what switch you purchased? I was worried about using the upfitter due to the 40amp fuse limit, but what you are saying about having a local switch makes sense. Why go back to the cab when you aren’t in the cab to use it!
 
Last couple of weeks I installed the BuiltRight rear seat release, Ford OEM mudflap and today the BuiltRight dash mount and cleaned up the under seat storage.
3AB187EB-F076-4E59-99C7-93F9CFFEB784.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • E05ED0D1-5F9E-4470-8085-F398F0B7D447.jpeg
    E05ED0D1-5F9E-4470-8085-F398F0B7D447.jpeg
    159.1 KB · Views: 144
This is great feedback thank you very much. Do you mind saying what switch you purchased? I was worried about using the upfitter due to the 40amp fuse limit, but what you are saying about having a local switch makes sense. Why go back to the cab when you aren’t in the cab to use it!

Absolutely! I used this as the switch.


Quentacy 19mm Latching Push Button Switch 12V Power Symbol Light 1NO1NC SPDT ON/OFF Black Metal Shell Waterproof Toggle Switches with Wire Socket Plug 3/4" Mounting Hole (Red) https://a.co/d/3lDkDxJ


With the ARB you will be using the 20 or 22awg purple wire as the switch. The red wires were spliced to the 6awg. I have a 5a fused wire that goes from the battery to the purple wire in the 2nd connector. I just spliced all the grounds together in both harnesses and brought it directly back to the battery itself.
 
Back
Top