What did you do to your Tremor today?

Installed a Built right panel and USB port in the front dash tray to plug my phone charger in. Ran the wire to the passenger fuse pael and used a 2 blade fuse holder. Used the heated steering wheel fuse since I don’t have one.
Very clean install no wires showing.
 

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Installed a Built right panel and USB port in the front dash tray to plug my phone charger in. Ran the wire to the passenger fuse pael and used a 2 blade fuse holder. Used the heated steering wheel fuse since I don’t have one.
Very clean install no wires showing.
What plug/plate is that you used, never seen that one.
 
Installed a Built right panel and USB port in the front dash tray to plug my phone charger in. Ran the wire to the passenger fuse pael and used a 2 blade fuse holder. Used the heated steering wheel fuse since I don’t have one.
Very clean install no wires showing.
Looks very clean . Awesome job
 
Decided to do a tire rotation.
And once again the Tremor did not disappoint - in being a complete pain in the ass.

all 4 wheels welded to the hubs. What should have been a 30 minute tire swap turned into a 2.5 hr celebrity death match.
Beat the piss out of all 4 tires with a 12 lb sledge hammer. FFS. Then wire wheel to clean up the centers and coating everything with anti seize.

But on the bright side. Iconic silver still looks awesome when it's covered in dust and dirt.

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I have taken my taken the wheels off my 22 Tremor multiple times to do suspension work and had zero issues getting them off. When you say they welded to the hub, what do you mean? The seized against them from over tightening the lugs?
 
I have taken my taken the wheels off my 22 Tremor multiple times to do suspension work and had zero issues getting them off. When you say they welded to the hub, what do you mean? The seized against them from over tightening the lugs?

Organic welding/galvanic corrosion. It's when you have 2 different metals touching and then add a conductive liquid.
It essentially creates a battery which will over time cause the 2 metals to fuse together.

Steel hubs, aluminum rims, living in MN where they salt the ever living piss out of everything in winter.
In as little as 1 winter, the rims can get very stuck on the hubs.
Probably not a problem for you, but can be a problem for everyone in the 'salt belt'.
 
What plug/plate is that you used, never seen that one.
Just a cheap one off Amazon. Get some kind of surface mount type as there is a steel support under the dash that will get in the way of the plug style.


Only thing I don't like about this USB plate is you have to turn it on every time you start up your truck.
 
Well, not done yet but in a few days I hope. The other day I turned my SPE lower fuel filter drain valve to check for water and drain in prep to change lower and upper fuel filters. No water at all in 39,600 miles on original filter. I then tightened the SPE valve and "CRACK" right where the nubs on the SPE ride in the slots on the lower cover, the cover cracked!!!! it's holding and I remembered DESKPOP was selling some stuff so I purchased his HS Motorsports lower fuel filter kit and will install once I receive it. I never heard of the lower cracking but had heard of the yellow drain valve cracking. I will shoot pics of the crack and the install once done. I will probably be adapting several kits to move the upper filter to better place with longer hoses than current aftermarket kits have and in a different spot as well.
 

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Did a little project that I had been planning for a while with the center caps for my Method wheels. The caps that came with my Method 304's looked ok (a little cheap looking, if Im honest, for example three of the six cap bolts are just plastic studs) but I didnt like that I had to choose between running no cap on the front wheels or a closed center cap on a known failure point on these trucks. I've seen some people just unscrew the Method cap from their front center caps but to me that just looks cheap/unfinished. Separately, I kinda wanted to keep the Ford logo on my rear hubs. so I played around with the original caps to see how I could incorporate the ones off my OEM wheels.

Anyways, I did a little research and found that Method makes a "Long" open center cap for 8x170 140MM hub bore wheels, you just have to input year model 2004 or prior F250 to pull up the part number/order on their website (PN: CP-OPEN140-110-B). I ordered a pair of them for two purposes, one was to see if the opening fit the Ford caps I pulled off of my OEM wheels, and also to see if I like the look of a matte black center cap on my machined clear wheels on the truck. Once satisfied, I ordered a second pair to modify with my OEM ford center caps.

Steps as follows:
1) punch out the factory Ford caps from the OEM wheel center caps (theres ~1" hole on the backside thats big enough to punch through with a dowel or the butt of a screwdriver... sorry didnt take a pic of this step
2) scuff the inside end of the method center caps with the roughest grit sandpaper you can find, really try and dig in and scour up the inside, since there's no mechanical interface here, you want as much surface area for the epoxy to bond to, I also snipped off the retaining clips that hold the Ford cap into the OEM center caps, but you dont have to do that as there's plenty of space inside of the Method cap and the axle hub
Cap 1.jpgCap 2.jpg
3) there may be a cleaner way to do this but what I did then was load up the inside rim of the center cap with a healthy amount of epoxy and then place the Ford cap face up on something stable (I used an old 20oz plastic cup) and then lower the cap down onto it so that you can make sure the Ford logo is centered correctly (Note: I used a full large kit of JB Weld for the two center caps, I think they call it "Professional", it's the one the comes with two 142gram tubes in it and had no leftovers), you'll get a fair amount of squeeze out here but this stuff has a really long working time so dont panic too much about clean up, take you time with a rag soaked in solvent and wipe it down while making sure the Ford cap doesnt shift inside the Method cap. Q-tips are good here too, that's a hack a learned from my gunsmith for finer work cleaning up epoxy from rifle bedding jobs, works good here too to get into cracks/detailed areas
Cap 3.jpg
4) once you are satisfied with placement and have cleaned the outside, flip the assembly over and gently push all excess epoxy down in behind the Ford cap and try as gently as possible (to keep it from shifting/ coming out of center again) to spread it evenly around. I have no idea if leaving it uneven would effect wheel balance, but there's no sense in making it worse than it has to be. Then, flip really quickly to make sure the Ford cap is still centered in the opening of the Method cap, and then return it to a spot on the bench to cure face down for at least 4-6 hours before touching again.
5) Optional, at around the 4-6 hour mark the epoxy will be hard enough that the caps wont move, but still soft enough to scrape small imperfections out of any areas you dont want them, I checked on mine and they were pretty clean so I left them alone... I'll post an additional pic of them on the truck once I get chance to jack it up and slot them in (and wash it, because its f*cking filthy right now)
Final.jpg
 
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