Up fitter wires

[ThreeLRanch]

Is this seriously all the wire I get ?
This is all I see that could be the pig tail , on my 2019 there was about 8” sticking out.

 

[Suncoast]

Usually when you peel the tape off the wires are doubled over and a lot longer. It’s just all taped up. Take off the tape and they should be longer.

 

[ThreeLRanch]

I did and it’s not much longer but a little.

 

[FT_Guest3342]

Yes, they don't give you much to work with. Just enough to crimp a splice onto.

 

[ThreeLRanch]

Yes, they don't give you much to work with. Just enough to crimp a splice onto.

That’s no joke.

 

[GMB Racing]

unclip the fuse block and lift up . It gives you more room to work with

 

[ThreeLRanch]

unclip the fuse block and lift up . It gives you more room to work with

Thanks for the replies , I got done what I was wanting to do. I really wish they would give a few more inch but that not the first time I’ve said I wish I had a few more inches lol.

 

[OldCowboy]

Thanks for the replies , I got done what I was wanting to do. I really wish they would give a few more inch but that not the first time I’ve said I wish I had a few more inches lol.

You know were going to say ... "that's what she said" right?

 

[ThreeLRanch]

You know were going to say ... "that's what she said" right?

Yep I’m well aware lol it’s ok

 

[Donnie With A Dee]

Is this seriously all the wire I get ?
This is all I see that could be the pig tail , on my 2019 there was about 8” sticking out. View attachment 32164

I tell my wife that is 8".

 

[Steve1965]

I am having some issues with my up fitter switches...hoping someone here can point me in the right direction.
I ran wiring from the #6 40 amp switch to the back of the truck to power an DC to DC charger for lithium batteries in my travel trailer. The charger is 18 amp max, which should be just fine on the 40 amp circuit.
My issue is...all wiring complete, but I have no power coming across either #5 or #6 outfitter. I pulled the fuses and tested across the terminals....nothing! I even switched the 5 amp fuze over so the terminals should be powered regardless of ignition.
I am really hoping someone has some ideas for me?
Thanks....

 

[Steve1965]

I am having some issues with my up fitter switches...hoping someone here can point me in the right direction.
I ran wiring from the #6 40 amp switch to the back of the truck to power an DC to DC charger for lithium batteries in my travel trailer. The charger is 18 amp max, which should be just fine on the 40 amp circuit.
My issue is...all wiring complete, but I have no power coming across either #5 or #6 outfitter. I pulled the fuses and tested across the terminals....nothing! I even switched the 5 amp fuze over so the terminals should be powered regardless of ignition.
I am really hoping someone has some ideas for me?
Thanks....

I'm a dumbass....I think I found my problem.

 

[OldCowboy]

I bet it was you need to have the key on. You can switch #6 to be always on if you want that.

 

[ccw]

I'm a dumbass....I think I found my problem.

Can you expand on what the problem was? Hopefully keep some of the rest of us from being dumbasses in this regard in the future?

 

[Steve1965]

Can you expand on what the problem was? Hopefully keep some of the rest of us from being dumbasses in this regard in the future?

It was far simpler than the ignition being on...kinda embarrassed to admit that I tried testing for voltage across the fuse terminals, instead of going to ground. Just wasn't thinking...
I must have a break somewhere in the line running back to the rear of the truck. I used 60 year old 4 gauge welding wire that I did have to butt splice. I thought I did a good job....apparently not. I used a factory ground bolt so I should have a solid ground back at the trolling motor connection.
Will investigate more tomorrow after a couple of vodka tonics!

 

[ccw]

It was far simpler than the ignition being on...kinda embarrassed to admit that I tried testing for voltage across the fuse terminals, instead of going to ground. Just wasn't thinking...
I must have a break somewhere in the line running back to the rear of the truck. I used 60 year old 4 gauge welding wire that I did have to butt splice. I thought I did a good job....apparently not. I used a factory ground bolt so I should have a solid ground back at the trolling motor connection.
Will investigate more tomorrow after a couple of vodka tonics!

Ah gotcha! Eh, happens to the best of us. The vodka tonics should help!

 

[Vermonster]

You know were going to say ... "that's what she said" right?

Beat me to it, friend!

 

[meyersracing]

I recently tried to solder my morimoto DRLs to one of these. After dicking with it for longer than I will admit in a very tight space (very little wire lead) I gave up. I am going to try one of those shrink butt connectors with low heat solder inside.

 

[OldCowboy]

I recently tried to solder my morimoto DRLs to one of these. After dicking with it for longer than I will admit in a very tight space (very little wire lead) I gave up. I am going to try one of those shrink butt connectors with low heat solder inside.

I recently used them on a trailer wiring job. They do fine. I don't know about long term dependability, but we'll see.

 

[Loshad]

Y'all are doing a good job of scaring me off from adding some
Baja Designs backup lights. I'm good with all kinds of AC wiring
but am clueless with DC. What are these

"shrink butt connectors with low heat solder inside"?

Sounds like something from Veg-O-Matic or the Home Shopping Channel.