Tremor F250 re-rating success

Pizza Man

Tremor Buff
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2021 F250 Tremor
Has ANYONE had success getting their Tremor 250 GVWR increased??

i have a 7.3 with the fifth wheel prep. My rating is weak, I’ve read people have had luck with f350’s... ANYONE with the 250 version? My GVWR is less than 2,500
 
I have ordered code 68D.
GVWR Upgrades to 10.800 lbs
Is that what you mean?
 
Some people have mentioned how they were able to get their trucks recertified for a higher GVRW. That code you mentioned COULD help me gain another 800 lbs!! I’ll take it! Thank you.

now I have to find out if the code does anything Equipement wise, or if it just slows Ford to put the actual rating for the 250 which is above the 10,000 pound plateau that causes problems for a lot of people.

i was on the phone with special truck ordering yesterday saying the wrong thing... that the 250 was a 350. I got shot down quickly saying that. Now if mention the code, I might just get somewhere.

thank you again!
 
I have ordered code 68D.
GVWR Upgrades to 10.800 lbs
Is that what you mean?

68D is the de-rate option. That's what the OP accidentally ordered and is now trying to fix it sounds like.

Did you want or need the de-rate on payload/GVWR? I think you might have accidentally ordered the derate option thinking it increased your payload and GVWR. It doesn't. It lowers them, at least on paper.
 
I’m a first time truck owner. I owned an expedition on airbags for many years.... and realized after studying that I really overdid my loads there BIG time.

now that the new truck is insured through my business, I did the research and realized I screwed letting it get ordered with the 10k package. As you mentioned, I was under the misimpression that I had increased my capacity
 
I’m a first time truck owner. I owned an expedition on airbags for many years.... and realized after studying that I really overdid my loads there BIG time.

now that the new truck is insured through my business, I did the research and realized I screwed letting it get ordered with the 10k package. As you mentioned, I was under the misimpression that I had increased my capacity
You are not the only one that has made that mistake. I think it would be better on the Ford website if it was mandatory to choose the GVWR, and they listed all of the options, not just the derates. Then you would know what you were actually doing to your rating.
 
You are not the only one that has made that mistake. I think it would be better on the Ford website if it was mandatory to choose the GVWR, and they listed all of the options, not just the derates. Then you would know what you were actually doing to your rating.
It’s the easiest ways for Ford to comply with state laws across the country. Not all of us are lucky enough to live in Texas. California here... from what I understand a lot of states get worse.

California wants to charge you more for the “commercial” vehicle that’s going to suck more gas while having the highest tax rates. Liberal policies...
 
The Ford truck rep out of Michigan called me this morning telling me that the 68d package could not be recalculated after it was built because it was already in a national data base. The guy knows his stuff no doubt.

however, I’m hard headed and have seen that some member have had success getting their trucks rerated removing the GVWR downgrade.

if anyone wanted to provide some advice on how to go about this successfully I’m all ears and the help would be very appreciated.
 
I believe what the rep told you is correct. Only people who can change the GVWR is an upfitter. Like a motor home manufacturer who buys a cab/chassis and build it, they can place a new gvwr
 
I believe what the rep told you is correct. Only people who can change the GVWR is an upfitter. Like a motor home manufacturer who buys a cab/chassis and build it, they can place a new gvwr
I’ve seen people on other threads talk about how they’ve had success getting their trucks down rating removed. They never mentioned about making any type of modifications to accomplish it.

I HOPE your wrong... but you very well could be right.

i have a special needs son, and 3 more kids. I have my eye on a toy hauler with an extra slide out for a second bedroom which could be great for my special needs guy.
California would require me to get a non commercial class A to drive the trailer because it’s over 10k GVWR. At that point after having passed numerous tests to achieve the endorsement playing naive wouldn’t work.

so I’m trying to keep it legal. I know the truck can handle it... but that sticker can save some HUGE headaches down the line.
 
Maybe try contacting one of those after market companies and seeing if they would do it?

Edit: re-rate the GVWR without actually doing any mods
 
My money is on that it would be easier to buy another Tremor.
Did I mention that I'm a really big fan of mindless bureaucracy?
I live in the Peoples' Republic so I'm an expert.
 
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I’ve seen people on other threads talk about how they’ve had success getting their trucks down rating removed. They never mentioned about making any type of modifications to accomplish it.

I HOPE your wrong... but you very well could be right.

i have a special needs son, and 3 more kids. I have my eye on a toy hauler with an extra slide out for a second bedroom which could be great for my special needs guy.
California would require me to get a non commercial class A to drive the trailer because it’s over 10k GVWR. At that point after having passed numerous tests to achieve the endorsement playing naive wouldn’t work.

so I’m trying to keep it legal. I know the truck can handle it... but that sticker can save some HUGE headaches down the line.

Not sure how big the 5th wheel is, but
 
First of to clear up some confusion I had going over the posts, with the 7.3L the 10K GVW is max available in a F250. The extra 800lbs seen on some F250s GVW is only offered for the diesel counterparts with the HCTTP to off set the extra engine weight. To get higher GVW rating on a gas truck need to jump to the F350.

I am not sure you will be able to pull off up-rating a gas F250 since GVW class is tied to your VIN for example a F350 or a Diesel F250 with the HCTTP weight rating have a vin code of 8 in the fourth character in the VIN. For example a truck vin starting with 1FT8, the 8 signifys the GVW class and restraint class. The 8 signifies a class 3 GVW (10001 to 14000lbs), manual belts with driver and passenger frontal air bags and side inflatable restraint (1st & 2nd row). A gas F250 would have a 7 in the Vin instead of a 8 and be class h GVW (9001 to 10000lbs), manual belts with driver and passenger frontal air bags and side inflatable restraint (1st & 2nd row). If your fourth position on the VIN is a 7 Ford would have to issue a new vin as well to up the rating stickers which I don’t see very likely to happen. Here is the Ford Vin standard I got the info from. https://www.blueovaltrucks.com/tech/pdf_documents/2020-Ford-VIN-Guide.pdf
If there was a mistake and 9900 gvw was ordered then you could possibly get it changed to 10K since VIN would not need to be changed.
 

Not sure how big the 5th wheel is, but
A 5th wheel is up to 15k, but you still need to pass written class A exam to get recreational endorsement with class c.

with a bumper pull, anything over 10k requires a non commercial class A. CALIFORNIA...
First of to clear up some confusion I had going over the posts, with the 7.3L the 10K GVW is max available in a F250. The extra 800lbs seen on some F250s GVW is only offered for the diesel counterparts with the HCTTP to off set the extra engine weight. To get higher GVW rating on a gas truck need to jump to the F350.

I am not sure you will be able to pull off up-rating a gas F250 since GVW class is tied to your VIN for example a F350 or a Diesel F250 with the HCTTP weight rating have a vin code of 8 in the fourth character in the VIN. For example a truck vin starting with 1FT8, the 8 signifys the GVW class and restraint class. The 8 signifies a class 3 GVW (10001 to 14000lbs), manual belts with driver and passenger frontal air bags and side inflatable restraint (1st & 2nd row). A gas F250 would have a 7 in the Vin instead of a 8 and be class h GVW (9001 to 10000lbs), manual belts with driver and passenger frontal air bags and side inflatable restraint (1st & 2nd row). If your fourth position on the VIN is a 7 Ford would have to issue a new vin as well to up the rating stickers which I don’t see very likely to happen. Here is the Ford Vin standard I got the info from. https://www.blueovaltrucks.com/tech/pdf_documents/2020-Ford-VIN-Guide.pdf
If there was a mistake and 9900 gvw was ordered then you could possibly get it changed to 10K since VIN would not need to be changed.
sounds like you know more about it than me by far. It sounds like I’m SOL. I have a 6 seater with a load rating just under 2,500.

not enough for most fifth wheel and passengers. And running a fine line in trailer pull with passangers.

thank you for the clarification
 
My money is on that it would be easier to buy another Tremor.
Did I mention that I'm a really big fan of mindless bureaucracy?
I live in the Peoples' Republic so I'm an expert.
My money is on that it would be easier to buy another Tremor.
Did I mention that I'm a really big fan of mindless bureaucracy?
I live in the Peoples' Republic so I'm an expert.
I think I’m unfortunately seeing it like you... I waiting 4 plus months for this one to come in... don’t know what the options would/could be from here that wouldn’t murder my pocketbook
 
A 5th wheel is up to 15k, but you still need to pass written class A exam to get recreational endorsement with class c.

with a bumper pull, anything over 10k requires a non commercial class A. CALIFORNIA...

sounds like you know more about it than me by far. It sounds like I’m SOL. I have a 6 seater with a load rating just under 2,500.

not enough for most fifth wheel and passengers. And running a fine line in trailer pull with passangers.

thank you for the clarification
I looked in to it after ordering my truck and the Plant shut down for Covid. Found a very close match to my F350 build but was in a F250 in stock. Ultimately found wasn’t realistic to get it uprated and just waited for the plant to reopen and my F350 to get built.

That sucks to find out after buying, hopefully you will be able to find a nice TT that meets your family needs better without going over weight.
 
I have only seen one successful up-rating of vehicles (misorder from a fleet, dozens of trucks) and it had to be approved by the (vehicle manufacturer) chassis chief engineer. It’s a really big deal to up-rate. Any upfitter that did this is essentially accepting liability if anything goes wrong that is attributable to using the vehicle at an increased GVW and no one wants that liability. I’m sorry about your situation.
 
Fortunately I have learned a lot through reading this message board. On the positive side living in California I’m able to save myself the extra $50 a month plus it will be in registration fees not having the 350. However, I definitely would’ve ordered the 350 that I known the price difference was so small and that my truck ride quality would be very bumpy like a 350… There would have been no question… $1000 difference when we’re talking about such an expensive vehicle.

Even if I was able to turn it into the dealer today… I would still be out 15 K plus… Between the nine year warranty I purchased and California sales tax… And the custom tint job already had done.

so I’ll choose to look at the cup half full... she’s a good looking truck that can handle more than written. Unfortunately her rating takes me out of being able to get a fifth wheel toy hauler I would like.

I’ll have to go with a tongue pull... and in California pass a non commercial class a test to drive a tongue pull over 10,000 pounds

thank you all for taking the time to give me your input.

also, I suspect the person that spoke of being successful in the forum was because they had the 350 which the vin has a 8 in the class rating. Mine has a 7... so I’m SOL
 

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Fortunately I have learned a lot through reading this message board. On the positive side living in California I’m able to save myself the extra $50 a month plus it will be in registration fees not having the 350. However, I definitely would’ve ordered the 350 that I known the price difference was so small and that my truck ride quality would be very bumpy like a 350… There would have been no question… $1000 difference when we’re talking about such an expensive vehicle.

Even if I was able to turn it into the dealer today… I would still be out 15 K plus… Between the nine year warranty I purchased and California sales tax… And the custom tint job already had done.

so I’ll choose to look at the cup half full... she’s a good looking truck that can handle more than written. Unfortunately her rating takes me out of being able to get a fifth wheel toy hauler I would like.

I’ll have to go with a tongue pull... and in California pass a non commercial class a test to drive a tongue pull over 10,000 pounds

thank you all for taking the time to give me your input.

also, I suspect the person that spoke of being successful in the forum was because they had the 350 which the vin has a 8 in the class rating. Mine has a 7... so I’m SOL
I'm sure your blue state has wacky laws as does my blue state. I can tow over 10K with my vehicle as long as I do not exceed 26,001# which means if I really need to tow a 14K GVWR trailer, then my GCVWR needs to be under 26K with my vehicle GVWR under 12K. The F250 has a GVWR of 10K with a combined GCWR of 24,900#. They just add up the stickers here... doesn't matter true payload or weights. I really wanted a F350 to tow my load, in the end it didn't matter. If I bought the F350 instead of the F250, I would have paid $115 per year more registration and then would have been subject to a CDL license due to the stickers (F350 GCWR is over 26K) but the F250 is still capable of towing the same load. I chose to stick with a F250, and no worries about any CDL issues whether I tow private or commercial.
 
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