Has any one found a good spot to relocate the oem horns to keep the thieves from cutting the harness ?
Relocating Horns
- OP 🔹 dew34
- Start date
Do What?
- OP 🔹
- #3
unfortunately the car thieves are cutting the horn harness buy going in thru the grill , once cut when they break in to the truck the horn will not sound off only flashing lights .
Oh Now I understand Probably shoud not be too difficult
I plan to relocate my horns into the engine bay. Was searching the forum in hopes of finding info on the factory horn connector. Plan is to buy a mating connector and make a plug-N-play extension wire harness that's long enough to go into the engine bay. I don't like to cut / splice into factory wiring if I can avoid it.
Haven't been able to find any pics / info on the factory horn connector, so may just have to pull the grille this weekend and take some pics and start the search.
Haven't been able to find any pics / info on the factory horn connector, so may just have to pull the grille this weekend and take some pics and start the search.
According to AllDataDIY, here's the pigtail for the horn (WPT-1051):
WPT-1051 - Wire Assembly Ford Parts Center
Save Money On Your OEM Wire Assembly - wpt1051 - For Your
www.oemford.parts
Just has positive and negative going to it. It goes through a 20A fuse, so if you're powering your new horns directly off of that circuit just be mindful of how much load you're adding.
Edit: just realized you're talking about moving the factory horns, not adding horns.
Ignore my comment about overloading the circuit.NICE!!! Thank you!!!According to AllDataDIY, here's the pigtail for the horn (WPT-1051):
WPT-1051 - Wire Assembly Ford Parts Center
Save Money On Your OEM Wire Assembly - wpt1051 - For Your
Just has positive and negative going to it. It goes through a 20A fuse, so if you're powering your new horns directly off of that circuit just be mindful of how much load you're adding.
Edit: just realized you're talking about moving the factory horns, not adding horns.
Pls post pics when done. We should all be doing this mod.
Watching 
Pulled the grille off this evening to have a look. I think the horns can be relocated fairly easily.
Here's what it looks like sans grille. My truck is a non-Tremor, XLT 7.3 with minimal options, so what you see below on my truck may/may not work for yours.
It's easy to see how the thieves can just reach into the grille and unplug the horn connector.
Anyone know what the plug by the yellow arrow is? My guess is for a forward camera but my truck doesn't have one.
I was able to confirm the connector @ccw linked above IS the horn connector. (thank you again!! )
https://www.oemford.parts/oem-parts/ford-wire-assembly-wpt1051
However, I will need to also find the mating male connector, like mounted on the horn itself, to be able to wire onto the pigtail CCW linked above and create an extension to plug into the connector in my hand and extend over to the new horn mounting location.
My plan is to re-route all the wires showing in this pic up behind and along the back side of the core support. It looks like it should be fairly easy to do.
The new route for the wires would be along with the wire loom below, and on across to the driver side of the truck along the red line.
New location I am thinking of for the horns are below and forward of the coolant tank.
There's a large hole my hand is sticking thru in the pic to hold the horn, but the grille covers that up and there's no way to get your hand in there when it's mounted.
I think I can pick up a stick of thin aluminum angle at Lowes or Tractor Supply to make a bracket indicated by the rectangle below. Drill a hole and mount the bracket to the coolant tank bolt, and another hole to bolt the horn onto it.
I am thinking 1-1/2" wide aluminum angle should do it, but I'll confirm when I get into it.
Should be able to pick up a foot long stick of this around $10 or so. I think 1ft is the shortest length I've seen on the shelf.
The above bracket idea should be fairly easy for near anyone to do. Almost everyone has a Lowes or TSC in town, and a hacksaw or whatever means to cut the aluminum angle and drill a couple holes in it.
If you wanted to get more complicated and creative, or didn't mind drilling holes into truck parts, you could stuff the horns about 4-5" farther forward where my hand is. Personally, I avoid drilling non-factory holes or splicing into factory wiring at all costs.
I'm not going to dive into this until I have the wiring connectors on hand to finish the job. Starting that search now.
Here's what it looks like sans grille. My truck is a non-Tremor, XLT 7.3 with minimal options, so what you see below on my truck may/may not work for yours.
It's easy to see how the thieves can just reach into the grille and unplug the horn connector.
Anyone know what the plug by the yellow arrow is? My guess is for a forward camera but my truck doesn't have one.
I was able to confirm the connector @ccw linked above IS the horn connector. (thank you again!! )
https://www.oemford.parts/oem-parts/ford-wire-assembly-wpt1051
However, I will need to also find the mating male connector, like mounted on the horn itself, to be able to wire onto the pigtail CCW linked above and create an extension to plug into the connector in my hand and extend over to the new horn mounting location.
My plan is to re-route all the wires showing in this pic up behind and along the back side of the core support. It looks like it should be fairly easy to do.
The new route for the wires would be along with the wire loom below, and on across to the driver side of the truck along the red line.
New location I am thinking of for the horns are below and forward of the coolant tank.
There's a large hole my hand is sticking thru in the pic to hold the horn, but the grille covers that up and there's no way to get your hand in there when it's mounted.
I think I can pick up a stick of thin aluminum angle at Lowes or Tractor Supply to make a bracket indicated by the rectangle below. Drill a hole and mount the bracket to the coolant tank bolt, and another hole to bolt the horn onto it.
I am thinking 1-1/2" wide aluminum angle should do it, but I'll confirm when I get into it.
Should be able to pick up a foot long stick of this around $10 or so. I think 1ft is the shortest length I've seen on the shelf.
The above bracket idea should be fairly easy for near anyone to do. Almost everyone has a Lowes or TSC in town, and a hacksaw or whatever means to cut the aluminum angle and drill a couple holes in it.
If you wanted to get more complicated and creative, or didn't mind drilling holes into truck parts, you could stuff the horns about 4-5" farther forward where my hand is. Personally, I avoid drilling non-factory holes or splicing into factory wiring at all costs.
I'm not going to dive into this until I have the wiring connectors on hand to finish the job. Starting that search now.
Enjoying following along with this project you’re working on. I believe your suspicions are correct on that wire being for the front camera.
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Without seeing the face of the connector I can't say definitively, but logic combined with the info AllDataDIY has almost certainly points to it being the coax and power for the front camera, if equipped.
That horn connector looks an awful lot like a Molex MX-150 2-pin on this page http://www.cycleterminal.com/molex-mx150.html
I ran across a cool link for Ford / Motorcraft wiring pigtails but it's only the female side. No luck yet finding the mating male side.
https://www.motorcraft.com/content/.../wire_sets_wiring/18376-Pigtail-Book-2016.pdf
@ccw do you have any means to info on the male side of that connector?
I ran across a cool link for Ford / Motorcraft wiring pigtails but it's only the female side. No luck yet finding the mating male side.
https://www.motorcraft.com/content/.../wire_sets_wiring/18376-Pigtail-Book-2016.pdf
@ccw do you have any means to info on the male side of that connector?
Unfortunately not.
It’s a real pain finding the mating connectors. I just have the same pigtail document as you.That sure does look similar, though!
After MUCH searching, I am pretty sure the Molex MX-150 are the ones. I just placed order at CycleTerminal (ordered from them several times before) for 1ea Male and Female connectors (with terminals & seals) and added 2ea spare male / female terminals in case I screw one up (BTDT). Worst case they don't work, I'll use them for another project.
Those connectors sure look like Molex connectors to me. I would think one could simply solder the Molex connectors on to the horn and cover the harness / wires with a metal cable sleeve tube to the length of your choosing. I believe this would slow thieves down enough that they would move along.
Connectors came today. Now that I’ve had them in my hands, I’m 99.8% confident they’re the ones.
Won’t get to get into it until this weekend, but I’ll take and post pics when I do it.
Just a thought but where does horn wire start, could we just wire in a 2nd horn that thieves can't see.
After seeing the camera was in the same loom as the horn, this was my thought as well. Seems like the best solution for my needs.
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