Red Zeppelin Build

[BroncoHooves]

The leak seems to have stopped. Might've been remnants of fuel from when I changed the valve out, since the port is completely open to the inside cavity.

 

[Modman]

Good news!

 

[BroncoHooves]

I made a suggestion to them today to include a rubber cap to fit over the port opening.

 

[BroncoHooves]

Passenger handle came in today for doing the driver's side Jimmi jammer. Need to set up an appointment to get the handle painted.

 

[BroncoHooves]

Got the spare tire dropped in preparation for removing the rear exhaust pipe and painting it off of the vehicle.

 

[fordguy74656]

I put mine in the air and sprayed. Over spray wiped right off the paint due to ceramic wax. Couldn't even get tape to stick to it.

 

[BroncoHooves]

Exhaust tailpiece removed; it was very easy to unbolt, including the lambda sensor (use a 24mm wrench). Was a bit heavier than expected, so I'll probably put bubble wrap on the tips so I don't scratch the paint off maneuvering it back into place. I opted to unbolt the hangers from the chassis instead of fighting with the tapered end exhaust hanger pins.

I used maroon Scotch Brite before the first coat of primer. Waiting on it to tack up before the second coat of primer and then 3 coats of black.

 

[Hopsferdays]

Anyone know of any extreme high current, flush mount connectors I could use for jump starting?

The Anderson forklift battery connectors are 350 amp I think, but probably won't work.

You could get really sketchy since it’s dc and wire 4 of them in series and make a custom cable. You might start a fire or blow yourself up but it also might work.

 

[BroncoHooves]

You might start a fire or blow yourself up but it also might work.

Nah, I'm good

 

[Hopsferdays]

Nah, I'm good

You could also try a military type nato slave cable connector those are for multiple battery 24v systems but since they are dc the connections should be the same with positive and negative.

Slave Cable Plug NATO 1 Pin Style (500 Amp), 11682338 / AEC 2338 / 5935-00-567-0128 ⋆ Green Mountain Generators

Slave cable plug, rated 500 Amps, 28 Volts DC / 15 minutes; 1000 Amps, 28 Volts DC / 6 minutes. Meets requirements of MIL-PRF-62122D. NATO STANAG 4074. Rated ‐55°C to 100°C. Resistance to ozone & fungus. Copper alloy nickel finish contacts. More details: NATO 1 pin style (coaxial plug type) P/N...

greenmountaingenerators.com

 

[BroncoHooves]

You could also try a military type nato slave cable connector those are for multiple battery 24v systems but since they are dc the connections should be the same with positive and negative.

Slave Cable Plug NATO 1 Pin Style (500 Amp), 11682338 / AEC 2338 / 5935-00-567-0128 ⋆ Green Mountain Generators

Slave cable plug, rated 500 Amps, 28 Volts DC / 15 minutes; 1000 Amps, 28 Volts DC / 6 minutes. Meets requirements of MIL-PRF-62122D. NATO STANAG 4074. Rated ‐55°C to 100°C. Resistance to ozone & fungus. Copper alloy nickel finish contacts. More details: NATO 1 pin style (coaxial plug type) P/N...

greenmountaingenerators.com

I probably won't bother with a remote connector if I go with Odyssey Extreme AGM batteries in the near future.

 

[BroncoHooves]

It looks so good painted black!

 

[fordguy74656]

The matte was a little to matte for me. I am going to repaint with satin I think they would look better.

 

[BroncoHooves]

The matte was a little to matte for me. I am going to repaint with satin I think they would look better.

Did you paint the rear muffler too on the tailpiece assembly? I left it stock but thought I'd ask before I run out of paint.

 

[BroncoHooves]

Finished painting as the sun went down.

Wondering if I should've painted the muffler? @ccw

 

[fordguy74656]

Did you paint the rear muffler too on the tailpiece assembly? I left it stock but thought I'd ask before I run out of paint.

i left the muffler as its hard to see anyway. I painted the back portion.

 

[BroncoHooves]

I went ahead and painted the muffler after getting another can of paint, since the muffler is visible from the outside a bit. Also painted the frame mounted exhaust hanger, since it is visible.

 

[yArdbird]

Muffler looks great painted, nice work! Now I have something else I need to do this weekend.

Admittedly, I haven’t crawled under the truck yet, but how difficult was it to remove the rear section of the exhaust. You don’t necessarily need to post photos, but a brief description of what needed to be done would be greatly appreciated.

 

[BroncoHooves]

Muffler looks great painted, nice work! Now I have something else I need to do this weekend.

Admittedly, I haven’t crawled under the truck yet, but how difficult was it to remove the rear section if the exhaust. You don’t necessarily need to post photos but a brief description of what needed to be done would be greatly appreciated.

A few posts ago I mentioned how easy it was to unbolt everything, except prepare yourself for the weight on dropping it. I left one of the exhaust flange nuts on to help me lower it in a controlled manner while I removed the last bolt from the aft exhaust hanger bracket. I could reach/remove the loose exhaust flange nut with fingers while I held up and lowered the tailpiece.

I had the spare tire removed as well, and it was a tight fit getting the tailpiece out; I didn't need to raise the vehicle, but your mileage may vary.

You need a 24mm wrench for the lambda sensor, and a 10mm socket, both shallow and deep to remove the exhaust hanger brackets from the chassis. You also need a 15mm wrench or 15mm deep socket to remove the tailpiece from the most rearward exhaust flange. Those nuts were the tightest of everything, but at least nothing was rusted and very clean.

 

[BroncoHooves]

Exhaust is done VERY glad I painted the muffler and aft exhaust hanger!