Project Shadowfax

@ccw, quick question about your Upfitter switch usage. I too have more planned for mine that the 6 switches/circuits that are present. I understand why you wanted the winch relay and all but why did you tie up an Upfitter switch for it? Do you just leave it off at all times until it's needed?

I had just assumed I'd tie the relay to the Upfitter key-on circuit so that it was on with the vehicle, but off when the engine is off. My Tremor is still just a figment of my imagination within the Ford ordering system at this point but I'm still trying to plan out as much as possible. . .
 
@ccw, quick question about your Upfitter switch usage. I too have more planned for mine that the 6 switches/circuits that are present. I understand why you wanted the winch relay and all but why did you tie up an Upfitter switch for it? Do you just leave it off at all times until it's needed?

I had just assumed I'd tie the relay to the Upfitter key-on circuit so that it was on with the vehicle, but off when the engine is off. My Tremor is still just a figment of my imagination within the Ford ordering system at this point but I'm still trying to plan out as much as possible. . .
Haven’t actually installed anything to the upfitter switches so that all has the potential to change, but the biggest motivation for having the relay off until needed is safety in case of an accident.

If the relay is on whenever the ignition is on, if you get into an accident you now have a large wire directly connected to the battery that could short out. If you add a fuse (the default install doesn’t fuse this wire) it’s definitely less risk, but still a “why not” situation.
 
Haven’t actually installed anything to the upfitter switches so that all has the potential to change, but the biggest motivation for having the relay off until needed is safety in case of an accident.

If the relay is on whenever the ignition is on, if you get into an accident you now have a large wire directly connected to the battery that could short out. If you add a fuse (the default install doesn’t fuse this wire) it’s definitely less risk, but still a “why not” situation.
Ah, gotcha, that makes perfect sense. Thanks for the quick response!

I also saw on your list that you are interested in the 2LO mod. I'm currently researching a better way to do it that would be 90% plug and play. The hublock solenoid circuit comes from the Transfer Case Control Module (TCCM) in the front passenger footwell near the fuses. It's on a 20 pin connector and I'm working up a design to see if I can't put a relay in-line on just the solenoid circuit while passing the other 19 through (they're not all in use). That way, there's nothing done in the engine bay and no cutting wires. All that would be needed is to hook up the +12v and the GND from the relay to whatever Upfitter switch and you're off to the races. Minor annoyance is that the receptacle for the connector is only available in PCB mount, but that will make it easy to mount a relay and 20 + 2 traces instead of crimping wires. Again, still just planning at this point. . .
 
Ah, gotcha, that makes perfect sense. Thanks for the quick response!

I also saw on your list that you are interested in the 2LO mod. I'm currently researching a better way to do it that would be 90% plug and play. The hublock solenoid circuit comes from the Transfer Case Control Module (TCCM) in the front passenger footwell near the fuses. It's on a 20 pin connector and I'm working up a design to see if I can't put a relay in-line on just the solenoid circuit while passing the other 19 through (they're not all in use). That way, there's nothing done in the engine bay and no cutting wires. All that would be needed is to hook up the +12v and the GND from the relay to whatever Upfitter switch and you're off to the races. Minor annoyance is that the receptacle for the connector is only available in PCB mount, but that will make it easy to mount a relay and 20 + 2 traces instead of crimping wires. Again, still just planning at this point. . .
Oh right! I saw you post that somewhere else in the forum and meant to respond. I'm definitely interested if you can make it happen, assuming I haven't done my own thing by then (pretty good chance I haven't - it's low priority).
 
Oh right! I saw you post that somewhere else in the forum and meant to respond. I'm definitely interested if you can make it happen, assuming I haven't done my own thing by then (pretty good chance I haven't - it's low priority).
Yep, I started my own thread on it. Currently trying to figure out the PCB design software but being on a Mac is proving a roadblock. Mouser layout library is windows only. . . Anyway, I'll keep everyone posted if I actually make any progress on it. Great watching your build so far! Just finished reading up on your electrical design. The engineer in me loves the diagrams!
 
Yep, I started my own thread on it. Currently trying to figure out the PCB design software but being on a Mac is proving a roadblock. Mouser layout library is windows only. . . Anyway, I'll keep everyone posted if I actually make any progress on it. Great watching your build so far! Just finished reading up on your electrical design. The engineer in me loves the diagrams!
Gotcha! Well can't wait to see what you figure out!

Thanks! Hopefully we'll start to see implementation in the near future here lol. It's been a ton of planning, but I'm itching to get some functionality out of it.
 
Another modification another snag in the process. This time it’s with the tires. 🤦‍♂️

Appointment to get the tires swapped was this morning and I showed up but the tires didn’t. FedEx delays. Two of them are in town but still at the distribution center, and 3 of them haven’t even left New Mexico yet.

Credit where credit is due: Discount Tire, without me asking for anything, dropped the cost of install off the price so I’m just paying for the tires when they finally show up. Also gave me the tracking number so I can keep track of them myself.
 
And the Diamondback cover saga is complete! Delivery driver left a few minutes ago with the damaged cover. I was the reason it took so long. Diamondback was fantastic through the whole thing, would definitely recommend them as a company.

So nice to have the 28 square feet of space back in my garage (pallet was 4' x 7')!
 
Today I got a chance to program an extra key fob for Shadowfax.

First, why an extra key fob? Two reasons:
  1. As long as you have two programmed key fobs, you can program extras yourself without the cost and hassle of going to the dealership. Should I ever damage one, I can purchase and program a replacement myself since I'll have two extras.
  2. This key will act as a "valet" key of sorts. Useful not only for valets, but whenever my truck is in the shop. I won't have the mechanical key cut, nor will I attach a key for my Diamondback cover. This means I can lock the rear seat storage and glove box and whoever has the valet key won't be able to get into them without physical damage. While it won't keep them out of the bed of the truck, it will make it notably more difficult to get into the toolbox under the front cover of the Diamondback.
Second, credit to @RedZilla for posting a link (an updated one from his original, no less!) to where to buy the replacement key fob. I've linked directly to Amazon in my parts list below, but here is a direct link to his post. If the Amazon link doesn't work, check that thread to see if there's an updated link available.


Additionally, @RedZilla provided correct programming instructions here that I followed:


I can confirm they work for a 22MY truck, as they worked with Shadowfax. Make sure to follow them closely. It took me a few attempts, likely because I was messing up the timing or something. I used the stopwatch on my iPhone to help manage the timing of everything.

Additionally, at least in the 22MY, the key ring is towards the back of the vehicle with the buttons facing up. Really, the fob only fits in one way.

Parts:
 
Today I got a chance to program an extra key fob for Shadowfax.

First, why an extra key fob? Two reasons:
  1. As long as you have two programmed key fobs, you can program extras yourself without the cost and hassle of going to the dealership. Should I ever damage one, I can purchase and program a replacement myself since I'll have two extras.
  2. This key will act as a "valet" key of sorts. Useful not only for valets, but whenever my truck is in the shop. I won't have the mechanical key cut, nor will I attach a key for my Diamondback cover. This means I can lock the rear seat storage and glove box and whoever has the valet key won't be able to get into them without physical damage. While it won't keep them out of the bed of the truck, it will make it notably more difficult to get into the toolbox under the front cover of the Diamondback.
Second, credit to @RedZilla for posting a link (an updated one from his original, no less!) to where to buy the replacement key fob. I've linked directly to Amazon in my parts list below, but here is a direct link to his post. If the Amazon link doesn't work, check that thread to see if there's an updated link available.


Additionally, @RedZilla provided correct programming instructions here that I followed:


I can confirm they work for a 22MY truck, as they worked with Shadowfax. Make sure to follow them closely. It took me a few attempts, likely because I was messing up the timing or something. I used the stopwatch on my iPhone to help manage the timing of everything.

Additionally, at least in the 22MY, the key ring is towards the back of the vehicle with the buttons facing up. Really, the fob only fits in one way.

Parts:
Good to know they work in the new 22's. The programming can be a little testy. Thanks for following up for the new folks. 🍻 👊 :cool:
 
Good to know they work in the new 22's. The programming can be a little testy. Thanks for following up for the new folks. 🍻 👊 :cool:

One thing I found is that there was no notification that I’d entered programming mode. However both turn signal indicators started flashing. That was my indicator to drop in the third fob. It did pop a notice saying that the fob was programmed successfully. Maybe there was a message and I missed it? Anyhow also have a 22.
 
One thing I found is that there was no notification that I’d entered programming mode. However both turn signal indicators started flashing. That was my indicator to drop in the third fob. It did pop a notice saying that the fob was programmed successfully. Maybe there was a message and I missed it? Anyhow also have a 22.
Honestly I don’t remember what I got for in-between notifications. I was too focused on timing and swapping fobs around lol. I would believe that.

The final press and hold reacted as described, though (all dash lights lit up and the door locks cycled).
 
Got a few pictures of Shadowfax today. They also better show off the Diamondback cover.

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Thanks! Honestly think the rugged would look great, too! Really a toss-up.
What are your thoughts on 10 cleats that it comes with from factory? Would you have done it differently if you were to drill them in your own, number wise or position wise?
 
What are your thoughts on 10 cleats that it comes with from factory? Would you have done it differently if you were to drill them in your own, number wise or position wise?
The HD comes with 12! :) 4 on each side, 2 on the front, and 2 on the back.

Caveat on the below thoughts: I haven't had a need to use the cleats yet.

I think they're positioned very well. About the only thing I would consider doing differently is adding two more front and back that are more towards the center of the cover, but that's a minor thing. And is purely additive; I wouldn't change anything about where the pre-installed ones are.

Another possibility would be to put e-track along the edges instead of cleats. That way you would have essentially infinite positioning of tie down points. But IMO the cleats are great and it's nice to have them pre-installed.
 
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Couple more things done to the truck today.

First of all I installed grease zerk covers on the front zerks. Credit to @BroncoHooves for this idea! No pictures. Install was super easy, just a bit greasy as I wiped excess grease off of the zerk, presumably from when they were first greased by the factory/dealer.

Parts:

Second, I organized the truck now that I have my Diamondback toolbox available. This adds some equipment to the truck compared to before:
  1. Tire chains and ramps to assist putting them on.
  2. Recovery gear, including everything I need for winching.
  3. Socket set.
  4. Hatchet.
Pictures below of the result. Only thing missing from the truck right now is my battery booster because I brought it inside to charge up. It hasn't been charged since I bought it 1.5 years ago. :oops: Set a recurring 6 month reminder to charge it up in the future.

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