Popping sound first thing in the morning when leaving driveway

You can see where it looks like that piece on the drive shaft hit the skid plate… now why, how, and what this potentially means 🤷🏻‍♂️

Truck only has 3500 miles, and just got all this suspension work done. It’s been a street queen so far, with a little toeing of my boat. No off-road, outside of parking in a grass ditch one day

I highly doubt the drive shaft is moving over while driving. You would have PLENTY of feedback if that was happening. Possibly something from the install work was used to hold the driveshaft in place?? Ratchet strap?? Just two spots close enough in proximity to give you the perception they contacted one another.

Looking at the pics again, is that the welded on balancing weight?? I thought it was a sticker. But it looks like a piece of metal.
 
You can see where it looks like that piece on the drive shaft hit the skid plate… now why, how, and what this potentially means 🤷🏻‍♂️

Truck only has 3500 miles, and just got all this suspension work done. It’s been a street queen so far, with a little toeing of my boat. No off-road, outside of parking in a grass ditch one day
That piece on the driveshaft is a balancing weight. And I certainly agree that it appears to have hit the skid plate, several times. I'm not sure that would be possible for that to happen even in extreme articulation situations. That's pretty crazy.

I almost wonder if the shop you hired to install your suspension had the driveshaft disconnected from the axle while they were working. Maybe it was strapped up near the skid plate and they accidentally put it in gear with it up there like that ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ if it were me I'd definitely put some pressure on the shop and see if they'll reveal anything. That's wild dood.
 
I edited my post, I remember that I was in a pretty good articulation very slowly going into the ditch, and at some point the truck felt stuck…. Gave a little more gas, no go, so I reversed out
 
That piece on the driveshaft is a balancing weight. And I certainly agree that it appears to have hit the skid plate, several times. I'm not sure that would be possible for that to happen even in extreme articulation situations. That's pretty crazy.

I almost wonder if the shop you hired to install your suspension had the driveshaft disconnected from the axle while they were working. Maybe it was strapped up near the skid plate and they accidentally put it in gear with it up there like that ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ if it were me I'd definitely put some pressure on the shop and see if they'll reveal anything. That's wild dood.

giphy.webp
 
Any thoughts if this could be related to my issue, and if so, possibly what needs to be checked / replaced?
 
Any thoughts if this could be related to my issue, and if so, possibly what needs to be checked / replaced?

I doubt it myself. I still think the u-joint is speaking to you. The weight tab does need attention at some point. Given the possibility (if you want to spend more money) a new single piece drive shaft to help with the added lift might be the best solution.
 
I doubt it myself. I still think the u-joint is speaking to you. The weight tab does need attention at some point. Given the possibility (if you want to spend more money) a new single piece drive shaft to help with the added lift might be the best solution.
I agree. Popping noises that you describe would really likely come from 3 areas in the drive line. Transmission, u-joints or the differential.

I will say the 10r140 (10 speed transmission) does make some odd noises every now and then, but nothing too concerning. I haven't had any issues with mine over 40k miles.
 
A quick search showed me on MarketPlace there's OEM pull-off driveshafts for like $300. Those were painted like yours from 2023 MY, older ones are the bright aluminum (or whatever the material used).
 
IMG_9412.jpeg


Flattened it out and will throw a little flat black paint on it.

I’m going to get the 500 mile re torq done, and have them also check the breaks again… they had to bleed them after adding the longer break lines.

Quit a bit of noise applying breaks, and coming from start/stop, and they feel a little mushy like they have to be pressed harder than when it was stock, chalked that up to heavier tires
 
That's the spirit. Not the end of the world by any stretch.
 
my stock '24 pops in the morning. i have to pay attention to see if it does it throughout the day. my '20 did it as well. i never figured it out. it is something in the suspension or driveline. u-joints may be the answer. i also get a clunk in my rear diff. i don't think the backlash is set correctly.

as far as the wheels, the caps have nuts on the back of the screws. 3 are real, the others are dummy. I epoxied the nuts in place, that way I can run the caps and access the hub by removing the 3 screws. the other option for a cap would be the short open caps

the driveshaft is interesting. i wonder how the heck it contacted the shield?
i would have it looked at and make sure it isn't scored. there have been driveshaft failures from them rubbing on one of the heat shields that can come loose and hang down. pretty sure there is a bulletin regarding that
 
So, another possibility is axle wrap. This happens when torque is applied and the axle "turns or wraps" just before the tires begin to rotate. This could explain the drive shaft hitting the skid plate.

 
So, another possibility is axle wrap. This happens when torque is applied and the axle "turns or wraps" just before the tires begin to rotate. This could explain the drive shaft hitting the skid plate.
You're right in that axle wrap does happen on these trucks. Or anything with leaf springs. But the driveshaft only moves vertically in that situation, not laterally or side to side like it would have had to do to hit that skid plate. I think there was something else going on there.
 
... Possibly something from the install work was used to hold the driveshaft in place?? Ratchet strap?? Just two spots close enough in proximity to give you the perception they contacted one another.
...

agreed with this, shop was replacing your back leafs disconnected the drive line ratchet strapped it to the frame. something quicker came in they decided to move yours out in 4x4 and it gouged against that plate almost ripping your weight off.

also would appear they placed your axle way back since it's pulled out significantly more than the previous grease lines (shiny vs super shiny). Would be interesting to know how much engagement you have left.

quick test, roll back under you truck, and lift yourself up by drive-line at the u-joint, should have almost no play even with body weight. Also aggressively try to move it left or right while hanging.

oh and the brakes they may have accidentally spilled brake fluid on the rotors during the bleed. would make them not as grippe and also squeals when stopping. fix is riding them down a mountain pass to burn the fluid off, but letting off before you boil you fluid out of the calipers.
 
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agreed with this, shop was replacing your back leafs disconnected the drive line ratchet strapped it to the frame. something quicker came in they decided to move yours out in 4x4 and it gouged against that plate almost ripping your weight off.

also would appear they placed your axle way back since it's pulled out significantly more than the previous grease lines (shiny vs super shiny). Would be interesting to know how much engagement you have left.

quick test, roll back under you truck, and lift yourself up by drive-line at the u-joint, should have almost no play even with body weight. Also aggressively try to move it left or right while hanging.

oh and the brakes they may have accidentally spilled brake fluid on the rotors during the bleed. would make them not as grippe and also squeals when stopping. fix is riding them down a mountain pass to burn the fluid off, but letting off before you boil you fluid out of the calipers.

So what I’m reading here is with a Carli 5.5 full kit, the rear shaft shouldn’t be pulled out at all and should be like the factory?
 
agreed with this, shop was replacing your back leafs disconnected the drive line ratchet strapped it to the frame. something quicker came in they decided to move yours out in 4x4 and it gouged against that plate almost ripping your weight off.

also would appear they placed your axle way back since it's pulled out significantly more than the previous grease lines (shiny vs super shiny). Would be interesting to know how much engagement you have left.

quick test, roll back under you truck, and lift yourself up by drive-line at the u-joint, should have almost no play even with body weight. Also aggressively try to move it left or right while hanging.

oh and the brakes they may have accidentally spilled brake fluid on the rotors during the bleed. would make them not as grippe and also squeals when stopping. fix is riding them down a mountain pass to burn the fluid off, but letting off before you boil you fluid out of the calipers.

I’ll try moving it around again, but I was pretty aggressive on it this morning moving it up and down and side to side with no movement to be honest. I was trying to gauge if I felt comfortable enough to point back the weight on the shaft and proceeded to do so once I felt it was sturdy
 
So what I’m reading here is with a Carli 5.5 full kit, the rear shaft shouldn’t be pulled out at all and should be like the factory?

it will be pulled out some. you did move the axle 3" down, so the driveshaft would have to get a little bit longer, but I don't think you should be seeing over an inch between the old wear mark and the new one, not like you raised the thing 8"


if it had no movement while aggressively moving it you are probably okay.
Looks like spacers are for 6" and more lifts

if you could next morning, put your phone on video on the ground under the drive-line near the slip joint transfer-case. would give us possibly some visual and an audio on what this pop is.
 
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