Paint Protection Film - Window Tint and Ceramic Coatings.

My only sage advice, if your going to get p/p naturally get it done before you get any paint chips or dings. Any highly experienced installer worth using will never cover paint chips. The installer I use is excellent. FWIW...
If I go with the truck will be taken in on the day of delivery to have the work done. So hopefully no defects will be on it.
 
Kept in the garage. Won’t be a daily driver. And it’s black.


Being kept in the garage def prolongs the life of the film. The metallic black paint really is nice for the film as it helps hides any edges etc.

For my truck (silver) I just did the high impact areas. If I bought black, I would be more inclined to cover entire, just to make it easier for me to wash it without adding possible swirl marks. If you have time and enjoy washing the truck carefully, then just do the high impact areas and save the money. Proper wash techniques you should keep swirls away. Worse case they can be fixed by a detailer pretty easily.

Def do the B pillars, they get destroyed easily.

Actually my buddy has the same black tremor, did the same protection and uses this every few days. Works well with film and ceramic coatings.

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Have you used the XPEL head like protection? I really want to try to protect mime while they’re new. I feel like that’s one of the most vulnerable areas that should be protected.

I’ve been installing paint protection film, window tint, and ceramic coatings for the past 20 years. I wanted to share a little of what I did to my truck and possibly help anyone with questions for their Tremor. We also carry most brands including XPEL, Suntek, 3M and Gtechniq products.

Paint Protection Film (PPF): PPF is designed to help minimize damage from rock chips, love bugs, and road debris.
Areas of coverage – Full front, entire rockers, leading edge of roof, pillars, b-pillars, and entire flares using 8 and 10 mil films made by XPEL. We used the thicker 10 mil films on the high impact areas such as the bumper and rocker panels where the rocks are constantly hitting the paint. On a few other panels we also put our normal test films on it to see how the films hold up lol.

Window Tint: Since the truck has big windows we used a combination of Ceramic films and Ceramic with IR heat blockers in it.
Two Fronts – XPEL Prime Black 15%
Windshield – XPEL Prime Plus 55%
Sunroofs – XPEL Prime Plus 55%
Back Windows – XPEL Prime Plus 70%

Paint Correction – Ceramic Coatings: The paint correction process removes light surface scratches, swirl marks and blemishes. Once the paint has been corrected and PPF has been applied, the ceramic coating is applied to increase the gloss and shine allowing for easier cleanings. Check out the shine…

Enjoy the Pics. Please let me know if anyone has questions regarding products or need helping finding installers in their area.

Now off to Ford to get Carli Suspension and 37s. J Can’t wait.

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I had a full front PPF applied, covers the headlights as well. I did clear, but it seems that many people opt for the tinted protection film on their headlights.
 
Thanks! Headlights still look clear? So you had it done some where?
Why in the world would you put tint over your headlights?

I had a full front PPF applied, covers the headlights as well. I did clear, but it seems that many people opt for the tinted protection film on their headlights.
 
If I go with the truck will be taken in on the day of delivery to have the work done. So hopefully no defects will be on it.
I Armor Shield 1X Ceramic Coating. It was a bout 69$ for a tiny bottle. They had a deal buy 2 get third free. When I went to check out they offered another bottle for 30$.
I saw a Utube video called I should have bought this instead of my Rang Rover. A man and his young pretty wife are detailers. The top of the line Jeep Cherokee that’s priced at 90,000$ came in and they loved the Jeep more than their Rang Rover.
My wife has a Rang Rover so that’s why I watched the video. BUT they showed how easy it is to ceramic coat vehicles. You apply a few drops to a micro fiber cloth, wipe it on to a small area, wait a few minutes, then wipe it off.
They explained it was easier than waxing your vehicle. They explained the benefits of ceramic coating your vehicle and rims.
You truck should be waxed first. But once the ceramic coating is on you let it sit in the sun for 6-10 hours. Don’t let it get wet for a couple of days. You may want to apply it twice the same day applying it.
They recommended Armor Shield 1X. It’s supposed to be the best in the business. So I called my brother from another mother up, who builds race cars a details his own shit. He agreed it was the BEST on the the market. He said it can be 1,500$-2,000$ to have my Jaguar F Pace SVR detailed and ceramic coated.
He said if you have the time and energy it’s easy to do. Must wax the vehicle first. He said the same thing that you just wipe this stuff on a 1’ square foot area wait a 2 minutes and wipe it off.
I bought my 4 bottles but got caught up with redoing my driveway so I never applied it. Armor Shield also sent me 3 email videos explaining how to use their product. I never watched it bought I have it saved.
I googled the stuff and couldn’t find it on Amazon, but eBay was selling it cheaper. I went through Armor shield. I didn’t want to get some fake bottle of a lesser product with Armor Shield sticker on it.
That’s it my man. Bones I hope your sweet Beast comes out sick, well built with no issues, and delivered quickly. Peace my man.
?????✌️?????
 

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I'm a long-time detailing nerd - have a garage wall full of gallon-size products, polishers/DA's, pads, brushes, vacuum accessories, pressure washer with all kinds of crap, etc - and I feel like the whole "ceramic" thing is bordering on a scam. I can believe that bugs and other surface contaminants come off easier than bare clear coat (just like they do with a wax or sealant - surprise), but any marketing indicating that it will fend of scratches (the kind you can't polish out) and chips should really be taken up by the FTC.

I mean really the whole "we need to fully correct the clear coat before applying the ceramic because its so hard to get back off", and "be very careful when washing as to not add imperfections into the ceramic" just don't logically reconcile. If it is not a harder surface than the CC, then why the headache with applying and living with these semi-permanent sealants (what they should actually be called)? And these little jewelry boxes they come in? Just all the LOL's.

I've also had PPF on a couple of cars. Cost was less than $1K for basically the bumper and first 12-18 or so inches of hood/fender. I was a pretty big proponent at one time, but today they fall on the wrong side of the cost-benefit analysis. When the cost of PPV outstrips the cost of a respray by a legitimate shop, something has gone sideways. I understand if it is an exotic where original paint is a huge thing or something, but on a DD?

Probably going to get flamed for this take much like if I went to an Amsoil forum and told them their products were nothing special, or to a Jehovah's Witness forum and told them they were in a cult.
 
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I Armor Shield 1X Ceramic Coating. It was a bout 69$ for a tiny bottle. They had a deal buy 2 get third free. When I went to check out they offered another bottle for 30$.
I saw a Utube video called I should have bought this instead of my Rang Rover. A man and his young pretty wife are detailers. The top of the line Jeep Cherokee that’s priced at 90,000$ came in and they loved the Jeep more than their Rang Rover.
My wife has a Rang Rover so that’s why I watched the video. BUT they showed how easy it is to ceramic coat vehicles. You apply a few drops to a micro fiber cloth, wipe it on to a small area, wait a few minutes, then wipe it off.
They explained it was easier than waxing your vehicle. They explained the benefits of ceramic coating your vehicle and rims.
You truck should be waxed first. But once the ceramic coating is on you let it sit in the sun for 6-10 hours. Don’t let it get wet for a couple of days. You may want to apply it twice the same day applying it.
They recommended Armor Shield 1X. It’s supposed to be the best in the business. So I called my brother from another mother up, who builds race cars a details his own shit. He agreed it was the BEST on the the market. He said it can be 1,500$-2,000$ to have my Jaguar F Pace SVR detailed and ceramic coated.
He said if you have the time and energy it’s easy to do. Must wax the vehicle first. He said the same thing that you just wipe this stuff on a 1’ square foot area wait a 2 minutes and wipe it off.
I bought my 4 bottles but got caught up with redoing my driveway so I never applied it. Armor Shield also sent me 3 email videos explaining how to use their product. I never watched it bought I have it saved.
I googled the stuff and couldn’t find it on Amazon, but eBay was selling it cheaper. I went through Armor shield. I didn’t want to get some fake bottle of a lesser product with Armor Shield sticker on it.
That’s it my man. Bones I hope your sweet Beast comes out sick, well built with no issues, and delivered quickly. Peace my man.
?????✌?????
I just bought this exact stills and it should be here soon. I am going to do a full detail on my z06 and then apply it. Give me a good idea on how to do my truck when it arrives... thanks man.
 
I'm a long-time detailing nerd - have a garage wall full of gallon-size products, polishers/DA's, pads, brushes, vacuum accessories, pressure washer with all kinds of crap, etc - and I feel like the whole "ceramic" thing is bordering on a scam. I can believe that bugs and other surface contaminants come off easier than bare clear coat (just like they do with a wax or sealant - surprise), but any marketing indicating that it will fend of scratches (the kind you can't polish out) and chips should really be taken up by the FTC.

I mean really the whole "we need to fully correct the clear coat before applying the ceramic because its so hard to get back off", and "be very careful when washing as to not add imperfections into the ceramic" just don't logically reconcile. If it is not a harder surface than the CC, then why the headache with applying and living with these semi-permanent sealants (what they should actually be called)? And these little jewelry boxes they come in? Just all the LOL's.

I've also had PPF on a couple of cars. Cost was less than $1K for basically the bumper and first 12-18 or so inches of hood/fender. I was a pretty big proponent at one time, but today they fall on the wrong side of the cost-benefit analysis. When the cost of PPV outstrips the cost of a respray by a legitimate shop, something has gone sideways. I understand if it is an exotic where original paint is a huge thing or something, but on a DD?

Probably going to get flamed for this take much like if I went to an Amsoil forum and told them their products were nothing special, or to a Jehovah's Witness forum and told them they were in a cult.
My thought exactly. I haven’t seen anything that’s convinced me otherwise. I have a 10 year old black Raptor that after a good detailer gets his hands on it, it’ll look exceptional again.
 
@flyinrye95 thanks for all the info. Post up your shop so any of us local can come to give you business. I plan to be making a trip to see family in Zephyrhills this spring/summer. May have to hit you up for ceramic and tint. All depends on the budget after deployment. LOL

 
I just bought this exact stills and it should be here soon. I am going to do a full detail on my z06 and then apply it. Give me a good idea on how to do my truck when it arrives... thanks man.
Right on. Check out that Utube video to see how easy it is to apply. ✌️
 
I'm a long-time detailing nerd - have a garage wall full of gallon-size products, polishers/DA's, pads, brushes, vacuum accessories, pressure washer with all kinds of crap, etc - and I feel like the whole "ceramic" thing is bordering on a scam. I can believe that bugs and other surface contaminants come off easier than bare clear coat (just like they do with a wax or sealant - surprise), but any marketing indicating that it will fend of scratches (the kind you can't polish out) and chips should really be taken up by the FTC.

I mean really the whole "we need to fully correct the clear coat before applying the ceramic because its so hard to get back off", and "be very careful when washing as to not add imperfections into the ceramic" just don't logically reconcile. If it is not a harder surface than the CC, then why the headache with applying and living with these semi-permanent sealants (what they should actually be called)? And these little jewelry boxes they come in? Just all the LOL's.

I've also had PPF on a couple of cars. Cost was less than $1K for basically the bumper and first 12-18 or so inches of hood/fender. I was a pretty big proponent at one time, but today they fall on the wrong side of the cost-benefit analysis. When the cost of PPV outstrips the cost of a respray by a legitimate shop, something has gone sideways. I understand if it is an exotic where original paint is a huge thing or something, but on a DD?

Probably going to get flamed for this take much like if I went to an Amsoil forum and told them their products were nothing special, or to a Jehovah's Witness forum and told them they were in a cult.
That’s the great thing about this forum. We need everyone’s experiences to help us make better decisions. When reading reviews I read a few good reviews but ALL THE BAD.
So thanks for your input. ✌️
 
Trust me on the Ceramic coat. My kid does coatings, I have everything even my motorcycles coated. I never go to a car wash, Just a fast 20 min home wash and it looks like it was just detailed. But you need a good honest ceramic coating company to do the work. Color correction is easer on a brand new vehicle but still required. The films are the real deal too.

the ceramic coating is a real time saver and it makes your clear coat up to 9x times harder, so it resists chips and scratches much better. I love how the bugs just slide off the front end with just garden hose pressure.

Ceramic at best is 2-3 times harder then OEM clear coat. 9H rating for pro ceramic is just the pencil scratch test rating. The hardest ceramic is Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra at what they call a 10H ceramic.
 
Have you used the XPEL head like protection? I really want to try to protect mime while they’re new. I feel like that’s one of the most vulnerable areas that should be protected.

Yup, Film works awesome. I used 10 mil on mine, however if you live in a state with snow and rocks all over the roads, I would probably spring for the thicker films.
 
Been using bead maker on my trucks seems to work pretty good spray on wet wipe in walk away put it on my 19 F250 getting ready to put it on the tremor
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you have to apply every 12 weeks I think
 
We use Bead Maker every day, works well with PPF and Coatings. .
 
I am picking up a new truck tomorrow and have been looking into both ppf and ceramic coating. (Ppf on the high impact areas and ceramic over the entire truck. The quote I got as ~$5500 which in mind is ridiculous? Does this seem high? Seems cheaper to paint it again in 5 years. Thoughts ?
You can buy various versions of Ceramic coatings...I really prefer the ceramic wax from Meguiar's...I use it every time I wash my truck...
 
I just got a quote on the 10yr XPel PPF:

"... $6000. And that includes doing a paint decontamination and paint correction on the areas getting covered before install. Full hood, full fenders, bumper, headlights and mirrors, doors and the roof. I use Xpel Ultimate Plus film which has a 10yr warranty on it which covers any discoloring or fading on the film."

For $6k, I'm thinking I can take $6k and put it in an interest bearing account and have a full custom paint job done in 10 years. Haha
 
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