New Driver's Door Lock Mod (Theft Protection)

With the truck locked and key not near it can you open the door from inside the cab by pulling the handle?

I’ll venture a guess and say yes like nearly all vehicles.

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With this tool or one like it you can open just about any car in less than a minute. I used to do this when keys got locked in customers cars. Some cars I could get in a minute or so but I was trying very hard to not damage anything. If I didn’t care about damage I could probably get any car in less than a minute.

Just pointing out that there are still easy ways to get into a vehicle that’s locked and even do it with minimal to no damage.

I’m not saying anything for or against what you have done or any other anti-theft devices.

The hard cars that took me a couple minutes to get open were ones that pulling the handle didn’t open or unlock the door, if power lock buttons didn’t work that made it even more difficult. I eventually got them all though.
Yeah, our handles are different in these trucks. Not saying it would or wouldn’t work, and your point is well taken. I’m just tying to minimize the low life opportunistic guys wanting a quick smash and grab, hopefully without the smash. Haha
 
Yeah, our handles are different in these trucks. Not saying it would or wouldn’t work, and your point is well taken. I’m just tying to minimize the low life opportunistic guys wanting a quick smash and grab, hopefully without the smash. Haha
Thought smash and grab used to mean something else 😏
 
Just got a call that my mom was locked out of her explorer. Seems relevant to this thread.

She’s in a southern state for the winter but flew back north for a family funeral.

Before she left she locked the keys for her rental house in the explorer. Explorer keys left in the house. She got a ride to the airport.

Flew back north on a Thursday and returned south today Tuesday.

Keypad on explorer wouldn’t light up. The car went into sleep mode.

Luckily someone else had a key to the house so she was able to get into the house to get the car key. She had to start her explorer in order for it to allow the keypad to work again.

I know my truck has done this when sitting for a while. But, I’ve always had the key in order to get back in.

Just food for thought if it were to do that with your only available key inside the vehicle. I’m thinking airport parking. Luckily she didn’t lock the car key inside her vehicle.

Technology can get you if you aren’t careful.
 
Folks wire a small set of leads into the wheel well or other place to connect jumpers to so you can power up the door locks from an external source.
I’m not sure if it’ll work with the Super Duty Tremors as I haven’t had the chance to fully inspect the underside yet. With my old Explorer Sport Trac years ago, I was able to crawl underneath and connect jumper cables to the posts at the starter motor. It provided enough juice to use the door keypad to unlock the doors with a dead battery and the keys locked inside. YMMV.
 
I’m not sure if it’ll work with the Super Duty Tremors as I haven’t had the chance to fully inspect the underside yet. With my old Explorer Sport Trac years ago, I was able to crawl underneath and connect jumper cables to the posts at the starter motor. It provided enough juice to use the door keypad to unlock the doors with a dead battery and the keys locked inside. YMMV.
“Or other place” there is literally nothing to prevent someone running a set of leads somewhere accessible, the battery and main wiring isn’t locked in a vault. The point it’s having a set of leads accessible (easy) to apply voltage to power the locks if you do this rather than trying to reach the starter/battery/etc itself.
 
“Or other place” there is literally nothing to prevent someone running a set of leads somewhere accessible, the battery and main wiring isn’t locked in a vault. The point it’s having a set of leads accessible (easy) to apply voltage to power the locks if you do this rather than trying to reach the starter/battery/etc itself.
I believe that the intent of Milkman906 post was that if someone did not do this, then perhaps the starter solenoid main power connection might be easily accessible under the truck. Just ensure you apply power to the main incoming line to the solenoid (other end goes to the battery), not the other side that feeds into the starter itself, or you will just spin the starter.
 
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Please tell me how that will open a SD truck? You can't get hold of the inside handle

How does your hand open the door handle. You and push a pull quite a bit with those. Never ran in to a vehicle I couldn’t open and did hundreds of them. Police, security and locksmiths often carry these to help people get in their cars.

Yeah, our handles are different in these trucks. Not saying it would or wouldn’t work, and your point is well taken. I’m just tying to minimize the low life opportunistic guys wanting a quick smash and grab, hopefully without the smash. Haha

Yeah my point was just that nothing makes it impossible to open our trucks just helps to slow them down or deter them.

Also a suggestion on how to open our truck if you do some of the mods to make it more difficult and your battery Goes dead.
 
I believe that the intent of Milkman906 post was that if someone did not do this, then perhaps the starter solenoid main power connection might be easily accessible under the truck. Just ensure you apply power to the main incoming line to the solenoid (other end goes to the battery), not the other side that feeds into the starter itself, or you will just spin the starter.
Thanks, I should have been been more clear by stating I was suggesting an alternative if remote leads were not put in place. pods8, I was not countering your suggestion I was just “yes and’ing” your idea. I agree, remote leads would be my first choice. If one of us finds ourselves in this situation without having installed the remote leads the starter leads might be a solution.
This guy uses a jump box to do what worked for me:
 
A large pair of channel locks it more than enough to crush that collar and grip the entire collar/lock assembly, and snap/sheer that little screw/bolt.
 
The ones with the key hole blocked are back in stock now. I bought one, and am returning the other one (key hole open).
 
I just ordered mine with the keyhole but I am having second thoughts and now think the one without the keyhole opening might be better. It's easy enough to pull off the door handle and unscrew it if you need access. For now I'll leave the order as is and stick with the keyhole version.

I'm also looking for a security screw for it. I sent an email to the company asking for the size of the screw and if I find a suitable replacement I'll post it.

It's not a perfect solution but as many have stated it's one more thing that may deter an amateur to move on to another vehicle.
 
Got my keyhole plug and installed it yesterday in between storms. I made a couple modifications to the install procedure and will list some thoughts to why. Pictures attached to tell the whole story.

1. Changed out the original junk steel screw with a T15 tamper resistant stainless steel Torx, #6 size. The #6 screw fits tight in the hole, you may have to very slightly ream the hole; I used a jewelers file to do so. (Two or three strokes max.)
If you substitute the screw, consider the head size. There is a plastic extrusion on the back side of the plastic handle cover that may hit the screw and not allow the handle to fully go to its seated position. I originally notched the handle but then figured out, all I had to do is reduce the head down a bit with a belt sander to match the radius of the flange. I also rounded the head so a pair of needle nose pliers cannot grab it. Another alternative, move the hole position slightly up or down towards the corner. (See picture)

2. I wasn't excited about putting a hole in the panel where you could see it when you pulled the handle, but after many considerations and experimenting, it is the best place for the screw hole. Anywhere else and the plug may not seat well. Hence, changing to the security screw, just to add a few more moments of confusion.

3. After I installed the plug, I didn't like the look of the open hole on the door handle, so I swapped it with the passenger side plastic. Looks good this way and may detract from the casual observer, it doesn't look like it came with a keyhole. I put the driver's side handle with a plug in it on the passenger side. The plug fits OK on this side, there is plenty of room for clearance. I will probably try to get a replacement plastic for this door in the future.

4. As others have pointed out, this is not a super secure protection method, it could easily be compromised if a thief knows what they are doing. It is a deterrent for the thief that intends to jimmy the door with a key or screwdriver, and the quick open and twist with pliers to defeat the lock. Honestly, if someone wants in your truck, they can easily get in. Most thieves are looking for valuables and will look for an easy entrance with minimal noise to avoid drawing attention. This device, in my opinion, is just one more (cheap and easy) layer you can apply.

I will also be installing a "disabling" switch.

Hope this helps! 😁

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Got my keyhole plug and installed it yesterday in between storms. I made a couple modifications to the install procedure and will list some thoughts to why. Pictures attached to tell the whole story.

1. Changed out the original junk steel screw with a T15 tamper resistant stainless steel Torx, #6 size. The #6 screw fits tight in the hole, you may have to very slightly ream the hole; I used a jewelers file to do so. (Two or three strokes max.)
If you substitute the screw, consider the head size. There is a plastic extrusion on the back side of the plastic handle cover that may hit the screw and not allow the handle to fully go to its seated position. I originally notched the handle but then figured out, all I had to do is reduce the head down a bit with a belt sander to match the radius of the flange. I also rounded the head so a pair of needle nose pliers cannot grab it. Another alternative, move the hole position slightly up or down towards the corner. (See picture)

2. I wasn't excited about putting a hole in the panel where you could see it when you pulled the handle, but after many considerations and experimenting, it is the best place for the screw hole. Anywhere else and the plug may not seat well. Hence, changing to the security screw, just to add a few more moments of confusion.

3. After I installed the plug, I didn't like the look of the open hole on the door handle, so I swapped it with the passenger side plastic. Looks good this way and may detract from the casual observer, it doesn't look like it came with a keyhole. I put the driver's side handle with a plug in it on the passenger side. The plug fits OK on this side, there is plenty of room for clearance. I will probably try to get a replacement plastic for this door in the future.

4. As others have pointed out, this is not a super secure protection method, it could easily be compromised if a thief knows what they are doing. It is a deterrent for the thief that intends to jimmy the door with a key or screwdriver, and the quick open and twist with pliers to defeat the lock. Honestly, if someone wants in your truck, they can easily get in. Most thieves are looking for valuables and will look for an easy entrance with minimal noise to avoid drawing attention. This device, in my opinion, is just one more (cheap and easy) layer you can apply.

I will also be installing a "disabling" switch.

Hope this helps! 😁

I had the same thoughts on swapping the door handle covers. What plug did you use to plug the key hole?
 
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I am considering this device wo the keyhole. Anyone have any additional feedback on this device? Anyone had an attempted or successfully theft with this device?
I was also wondering if, in the event the batteries died, you could power the truck enough to use the key fob to unlock the truck, if power was applied through a modified 7 pin trailer plug.
Thanks in advance for any replies
 
I am considering this device wo the keyhole. Anyone have any additional feedback on this device? Anyone had an attempted or successfully theft with this device?
I was also wondering if, in the event the batteries died, you could power the truck enough to use the key fob to unlock the truck, if power was applied through a modified 7 pin trailer plug.
Thanks in advance for any replies
I did the lock cylinder and lock pull delete so I added a set of R2X remote battery terminals using 4 AWG gauge with 3/8 lugs. I was able to tuck it behind fog lights on the passenger side so I can access it with a jump box. I know you can also attach a jump box to the starter but didn't want to have to crawl under the truck if the need arises.
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