Need Help - 12v and Upfitter Switches

Worley

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I’m trying to wire up a dash cam and I need 12v constant power. All the fuses in the passenger side kick plate are all accessory power. I’m trying to avoid going through the fire wall. Does anyone know how to get access to the 12v socket next to the radio? Also, where is the upfitter switches connection point?
 

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Also, where is the upfitter switches connection point?

I wish I knew! I can show you the factory upfitter switch wires if you need a picture, but I am running power and wiring through the driver's side firewall gaskets as I can't find the Ford pass-through cables on the passenger side.

Ed
 

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I found this pic where the connection point for the upfitter switches are in the engine bay. I circled where they are.
20200301_193002.jpg


Here is the amp rating for each switch.

Screenshot_20200301-193322_Keep Notes.jpg
 

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Here is what I used when I added a back up camera that had the screen on he mirror. I went along the pillar to the mirror. I think plugged it in the the stereo fuse. Worked like a champ and it was a clean install without having to go thru the file wall. That will leave your switches for something else that you would like to turn on when needed.

 
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Here is what I used when I added a back up camera that had the screen on he mirror. I went along the pillar to the mirror. I think plugged it in the the stereo fuse. Worked like a champ and it was a clean install without having to go thru the file wall. That will leave your switches for something else that you would like to turn on when needed.


I have a fuse tap already. My problem is all the fuses such as the radio will turn off when the truck is turned off. I need constant power. I think I will just go through the fire wall. Unfortunately, I will have to reroute my wires to the driver side now.
 

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I'm using the Raven dash cam which goes off the OBD connector.
 
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I finally went through the firewall on driver side and went back over to the passenger side to the fuse box. Now that it’s setup, I really like the Nextbase 522gw dash cam. It has a crystal clear image.
 

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I have a fuse tap already. My problem is all the fuses such as the radio will turn off when the truck is turned off. I need constant power. I think I will just go through the fire wall. Unfortunately, I will have to reroute my wires to the driver side now.

I know this is an old thread, but, my experience with the 2021 is this is not the case. All the micro 2 fuses in the footwell fuse panel are all constant power. I’m looking for a 5-15amp switched fuse down there and haven’t found one yet. I’m wondering if the 2020 is different than the 2021.
 
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I know this is an old thread, but, my experience with the 2021 is this is not the case. All the micro 2 fuses in the footwell fuse panel are all constant power. I’m looking for a 5-15amp switched fuse down there and haven’t found one yet. I’m wondering if the 2020 is different than the 2021.
I ended up going through the firewall and straight to the battery.
 

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I’m trying to wire up a dash cam and I need 12v constant power. All the fuses in the passenger side kick plate are all accessory power. I’m trying to avoid going through the fire wall. Does anyone know how to get access to the 12v socket next to the radio? Also, where is the upfitter switches connection point?
I went through the fire wall with a coat hanger it was surprisingly easy. I have a parking mode active on my VIOFO A129 and it works great.
 

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My dash cam with the hard wire kit has 2 power inputs. One is hot all the time and the other is switched. It uses the switched one while driving and the always hot one when it’s parked. The cam monitors battery voltage in “parked” mode and will shut down automatically when voltage drops below a predetermined voltage. I have no issue with the always hot becaue I can find that in the footwell. I just can’t seem to find a switched fuse down there.
 

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Looking at what I posted for the wiring diagram, I am definitely going to change the F22 fuse in the BCM to at least 20A and make sure the connecting wires are the right gauge. 5A is probably a good rating for each individual upfitter switch, but definitely not a good rating for 4 of them combined, pretty wimpy. I'll think I'll also change the upfitter box fuse to at least a 10A fuse and make sure the wire gauge for that is appropriate as well. If I add an accessory greater than 5A to an upfitter switch, then I'll need to make sure that the main supply fuse can handle that plus an additional upfitter switch requirement (or two or three or four) used simultaneously.
 

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Looking at what I posted for the wiring diagram, I am definitely going to change the F22 fuse in the BCM to at least 20A and make sure the connecting wires are the right gauge. 5A is probably a good rating for each individual upfitter switch, but definitely not a good rating for 4 of them combined, pretty wimpy. I'll think I'll also change the upfitter box fuse to at least a 10A fuse and make sure the wire gauge for that is appropriate as well. If I add an accessory greater than 5A to an upfitter switch, then I'll need to make sure that the main supply fuse can handle that plus an additional upfitter switch requirement (or two or three or four) used simultaneously.
The 5A fuse should be sufficient to run all the upfitter relays and LED lights on all 6 switches at the same time. Typical 12V relay coil only draws 200mA. That is unless you are going to take extra load before the upfitter relays.

I will add a disclaimer for what I am about to say that switches are intended for auxiliary relay coil load and may or may not be able to reliability handle extra load so this would be at your own risk. With that out of the way, a person could swap the fuse f4a to f4c and pick switch 5 or 6 pull the relay for it under the hood and take power directly from the switch to a in cab device to get constant power. I have not pulled the upfitter switche area apart to see how much load the switch or wiring could safely support though.
 

rhines81

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The 5A fuse should be sufficient to run all the upfitter relays and LED lights on all 6 switches at the same time. Typical 12V relay coil only draws 200mA. That is unless you are going to take extra load before the upfitter relays.

I will add a disclaimer for what I am about to say that switches are intended for auxiliary relay coil load and may or may not be able to reliability handle extra load so this would be at your own risk. With that out of the way, a person could swap the fuse f4a to f4c and pick switch 5 or 6 pull the relay for it under the hood and take power directly from the switch to a in cab device to get constant power. I have not pulled the upfitter switche area apart to see how much load the switch or wiring could safely support though.
In rethinking this, you are correct as the actual load is transferred through the relay and would be separate from the relay coil/actuator.
 

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Are the leads from the relay box for the outfitter switches already hot? Is all that is needed to add lights or some accessory, is to tie directly into the corresponding lead with your lighting wiring?
 
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2020Tremor

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Are the leads from the relay box for the outfitter switches already hot? Is all that is needed to add lights or some accessory, is to tie directly into the corresponding lead with your lighting wiring?
Yes should be, default switch 1-4 are tied to the ignition 4/5 are hot all the time.
 

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Yes should be, default switch 1-4 are tied to the ignition 4/5 are hot all the time.
Thanks! I've seen some conflicting info, or at least some info that confused me.

I watched a video posted here about enabling "high idle". The mechanic was great and he had 3 Super Dutys in the shop. He videoed where the wires were and how to access them in each model year. He had to do some work on the passenger side fuse panel to tie in the "pull through" wires to the fuse box. I have a Raptor and had to do the same thing.
 
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