Mike's CG '21 F-350 Tremor

Rich Pune

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Thanks Dude, I love designing the harnesses and getting creative with how things are going to be controlled. A degree in Electronics Engineering doesn't hurt either. This has been a fun project and I'll soon be able to get back on the exhaust mods when the headers show up next week.

If you have any questions or need help with wiring, etc., just shoot me a PM.

MB
Thank you. Will do!
 

HubbardTramper

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Thanks Dude, it's finally getting where I want it to be.

I wired them to the Upfitter Switches. Switch one is full blast on the pillar mounted XL80s and switch two is low power (switched ground through a relay to the green wire on the lights). Switch three is full blast on the work/scene XL80s (mounted on the cab guard) and I'm still using switch two for low power on the work/scene XL80s. These things are incredibly bright and have the broad beam width I was looking for. I also like the fact that they're more compact than the LP6s.

I expect to post pics of the work/scene lights this weekend, provided the brackets are done at powder coat. Although the brackets are a nice stainless material, I didn't want them looking like a neon sign on a blacked out truck. So, I put them in my blast cabinet to prep for powder coat and dropped them off this past Monday.

MB
Thanks for the info on your wiring approach! Two sets of front and rear facing XL80s has gotta be great - daylight whenever you want it haha! Also glad to see you're an electrical engineer and didn't feel any need to dim them. I've been debating installing the XL80s with a remote controlled dimmer switch (something like THIS plus remote) or like the Trigger One Relay which uses bluetooth.
 
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RAVAGE88

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Thanks for the info on your wiring approach! Two sets of front and rear facing XL80s has gotta be great - daylight whenever you want it haha! Also glad to see you're an electrical engineer and didn't feel any need to dim them. I've been debating installing the XL80s with a remote controlled dimmer switch (something like THIS plus remote) or like the Trigger One Relay which uses bluetooth.
No worries.

They're exactly like daylight and my boys get a kick out of standing in front of them (truck not moving, of course :ROFLMAO: ).

Things start to get weird when you dim LEDs (or even incandescent bulbs for that matter). The XL80s are a three wire system, +12VDC (white wire), Negative (black wire) and a Switched Ground (green wire). Obviously, the +12VDC goes directly to the appropriate upfitter switch wire, pretty simple. The negative obviously goes to battery or chassis ground and the switched ground is an option IF you want a low power capability. I don't recommend using a dimmer because they force the lights to draw more current with a drop in supply voltage. In turn, this increases heat and heat is bad. Using the switched ground enables one to reduce the level of light while maintaining proper supply voltage. I don't remember if the low power feature is a reduction BY 20% of full blast or a reduction TO 20% of the available level of light, I'll have to refer back to the literature to remember exactly which one it is.

So, the Switched Ground. One can use a standard Bosch style relay and power the coil (leg 85) with one of the upfitter switches (the other side of the coil (leg 86) goes to ground (battery or chassis). Also, run one side of the "switched pole" (leg 30) in the relay to ground (legs 30 and 86) and the green wire to the XL80s goes to the other side of the "switched pole" (leg 87, Normally Open or NO). Some Bosch style relays have a leg marked 87A, which is a Normally Closed (or NC) feature, so whatever you wire to leg 30 appears at 87A constantly. When the relay "poles" by the application of power at legs 85 and 86, what's wired to leg 30 is switched to appear at leg 87.

For the front and rear XL80s, I wired the green wires together and sent them to leg 87, this allowed me to use one relay and a total of three upfitter switches instead of adding a separate relay for front and rear and using four switches.

It's likely you're already familiar with how all this works, but if not, relays are better long-term than a dimmer, especially in higher current applications that run off of 12VDC, and hopefully others reading this will/can gain something from what I'm sharing. I nicely "connectorized" everything using Deutsch connectors so the system is "plug and play." Also, I hate butt splices, electrical tape (no offense to those that use them) and those pesky splices that clamp to a wire or wires as a means of "tapping" voltage or ground. These methods can be highly intermittent, aesthetically unappealing and much harder to service if/when something stops working.

MB
 
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RAVAGE88

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Good news, my brackets were done a day early. Mounted everything and plugged them in.

C38-D9-E37-4899-4-D02-A3-CF-05-C95-DF66975.jpg


A2971-E08-AFFF-430-A-9819-6117-A444-A492.jpg


4-D88-AFC1-5023-4-C6-F-A242-CAF5-EFC96-DDD.jpg


DFFCFFF2-A782-4-D1-A-9-AB1-322284979200.jpg


625314-B8-0-DC1-4-B39-921-B-620842-CF2-F30.jpg


CAD6-ABAD-8-A67-47-AF-9-B53-DA39955-AD6-B9.jpg


I'll take a few pics tonight when its dark enough to get an idea of how bright they are....

MB
 
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RAVAGE88

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Night time pics of the Work/Scene XL80s....pictures don't do them justice.


These two are full blast:
4-DAEFA85-228-B-49-E4-8-EC4-A533-FAA1594-F.jpg


880-F9600-3-EC5-48-D8-B9-DA-F8-A7-A437-A818.jpg


This one is low power:
CEA2493-C-8-FAB-4-CE8-B87-B-5-FBE2-D1-C9885.jpg


MB
 
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RAVAGE88

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Ok, big day today. After a hefty wait for the complete exhaust system to arrive from AFE, it's installed and running. I didn't do the work myself, as I'd have rolled around on a creeper for a number of days and afterwards, not be able to stand up straight for a month. So, I had the kick ass Ford Tech that installed my winch put the system in. I have quite a few pics that he provided and will post before and after videos as well.

All-in-all, I'm highly pleased with the AFE system. Some of you may know that I balked at the first set of headers I received, but after a little patience and properly applying some people skills, AFE came through with a set that are over-the-top nice.

OEM Exhaust System Removed:
825-F19-BE-189-F-451-D-B1-E6-901-B184873-E4.jpg


Comparison of Stock Exhaust Manifold and AFE Header:
C1998511-BEF6-47-D4-9-CAB-DCB835-FA9190.jpg


Passenger Side Header In Place (much easier than the drivers side):
B8-E56-AE1-2-D64-4274-8-AEC-6500-A7877-E59.jpg


Driver Side Header In Place (a lot of dickin around to get it in place due to the big module that mounted right in the way):
6210-D31-A-6863-434-B-9-ACD-65485-A426-A5-B.jpg


Driver Side View From The Bottom:
016-A03-E5-405-C-4114-B776-1-D477-D7-C1-BE0.jpg


Mid-Pipe to Rear System Junction:
74-E3-B0-E6-E1-D2-47-EB-96-EE-BCCD41-BCD697.jpg


Exhaust Tips-Top View:
77-D556-AB-11-A0-463-D-9586-EAF79-BF1-FEC6.jpg


Exhaust Tips-View From Rear:
DC84-C0-FD-D3-FB-404-A-874-A-610430-B75577.jpg


Exhaust Tips-Head-On View:
9639-FA7-A-E561-463-A-9-DB6-C1-E40275-C9-F9.jpg


Next post will be a video of where I started with OEM exhaust, initial start up with AFE System and bonus video after everything checked out.

MB
 
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RAVAGE88

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Comparison of bone stock exhaust system on 2021 F-350 TREMOR, 7.3L Godzilla. The new system, from headers to tips is from AFE Power.




Stock System:

Initial Startup and Inspection of AFE System:

Just Messin Around:

MB
 
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RAVAGE88

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Ok, I removed the PMF Dual Steering Stabilizer and after receiving the highest concentration of hairy eyeball from the Wife for cleaning everything up in the kitchen sink, it's all shipped out to the new owner as of yesterday.
5-FEB5320-BCCF-45-FC-AE40-04-DC6-AC56-BD1.jpg


So now, I'm forging on with my next set of plans and my new Carli Low and High Mount Stabilizers arrive tomorrow. I'm executing various other pieces of the plan as I prepare to get the bed of the truck ready for the ARB Twin Air Compressor, Tank and Manifold. So, I'll scrub the bed clean before seam sealing around the lower perimeter with windshield adhesive. This will keep rainwater, etc., from being kicked up through the small gaps and ultimately sit beneath the Bed Rug that should be here soon.

I'm running four pieces of six gauge cable (two red, two black) from the drivers side battery to connect to the ATB Four Way Fuse and Distribution Block that will be at the heart of the power management panel (complete power management system is mounted to driver side rear Built Right panel). The ARB Compressor, ECU, Inverter and everything in the back of the truck will be powered from this panel. I'll also wire the output of my Noco 2A Trickle Charger into this block instead of mounting it under the hood. Since the bed of the truck will be completely sealed, thanks also to the Diamondback HD Cover, the Noco will be out of the way of heat and other stuff since it doesn't appear to be the most robust of devices.

I've been giving a lot of thought to the air spring system. I ordered the Firestone Red Label Heavy Duty Kit, but I'm not running the Firestone Compressor. So, I'm robbing the ECU, Wireless Controller and Harness from a Firestone Kit. The ECU will mount on the Built Right panel, forward driver side of the bed, across from the ARB Compressor. I'll use a port on the ARB Manifold to attach a 12VDC Air Valve and use the output from the ECU that would normally excite the Firestone Compressor to manage the 12VDC Air Valve. The output from the 12VDC Air Valve will go to the "Source" port of the ECU, so when I select which bag will receive air with the Wireless Remote, the ECU routes air to that bag. I'll also exhaust air from either bag independently. So, plan made, parts inbound.

Of course the air springs are in preparation for the Carli Progressive Spring Packs, which will be enroute soon. The PinTop is going in front, along with a few other Carli Suspension pieces. The plan is to have a "do absolutely everything" truck, which will take a little more time, but I enjoy the planning and building as much as the wrenching. I'll post up pictures of the progress as I move through the plan.

MB
 

HubbardTramper

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No worries.

They're exactly like daylight and my boys get a kick out of standing in front of them (truck not moving, of course :ROFLMAO: ).

Things start to get weird when you dim LEDs (or even incandescent bulbs for that matter). The XL80s are a three wire system, +12VDC (white wire), Negative (black wire) and a Switched Ground (green wire). Obviously, the +12VDC goes directly to the appropriate upfitter switch wire, pretty simple. The negative obviously goes to battery or chassis ground and the switched ground is an option IF you want a low power capability. I don't recommend using a dimmer because they force the lights to draw more current with a drop in supply voltage. In turn, this increases heat and heat is bad. Using the switched ground enables one to reduce the level of light while maintaining proper supply voltage. I don't remember if the low power feature is a reduction BY 20% of full blast or a reduction TO 20% of the available level of light, I'll have to refer back to the literature to remember exactly which one it is.

So, the Switched Ground. One can use a standard Bosch style relay and power the coil (leg 85) with one of the upfitter switches (the other side of the coil (leg 86) goes to ground (battery or chassis). Also, run one side of the "switched pole" (leg 30) in the relay to ground (legs 30 and 86) and the green wire to the XL80s goes to the other side of the "switched pole" (leg 87, Normally Open or NO). Some Bosch style relays have a leg marked 87A, which is a Normally Closed (or NC) feature, so whatever you wire to leg 30 appears at 87A constantly. When the relay "poles" by the application of power at legs 85 and 86, what's wired to leg 30 is switched to appear at leg 87.

For the front and rear XL80s, I wired the green wires together and sent them to leg 87, this allowed me to use one relay and a total of three upfitter switches instead of adding a separate relay for front and rear and using four switches.

It's likely you're already familiar with how all this works, but if not, relays are better long-term than a dimmer, especially in higher current applications that run off of 12VDC, and hopefully others reading this will/can gain something from what I'm sharing. I nicely "connectorized" everything using Deutsch connectors so the system is "plug and play." Also, I hate butt splices, electrical tape (no offense to those that use them) and those pesky splices that clamp to a wire or wires as a means of "tapping" voltage or ground. These methods can be highly intermittent, aesthetically unappealing and much harder to service if/when something stops working.

MB
Hi Mike, your build is looking great! The thorough background is much appreciated.

Would you recommend any higher current 12VDC relays in particular? I only know of the TRIGGER One and it has mixed reviews.
 
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RAVAGE88

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Hi Mike, your build is looking great! The thorough background is much appreciated.

Would you recommend any higher current 12VDC relays in particular? I only know of the TRIGGER One and it has mixed reviews.
Thanks Dude, much appreciated. I enjoy the planning and prepping.

Higher current Bosch style relay? How much current?

MB
 
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RAVAGE88

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Hay Mike, I will continue to follow this build, and most likely will be “borrowing” a few ideas from it. Keep up the great work! 🥃🍺😎
Hey Brett, thanks! Borrow away and reach out if you have questions, etc. The hardest part of this whole project is the slow delivery times from most of the vendors. I get it, I'm a biz owner also....sign of the times I guess.

The Red Label Air Bag Kit, ECU, Wireless Controller and Harness shipped yesterday. I ordered two 12VDC Air Valves from Horn Blasters that I suspect will ship quickly, so when I mock everything up in the shop, I'll post pics and videos prior to install.

MB
 

HubbardTramper

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Thanks Dude, much appreciated. I enjoy the planning and prepping.

Higher current Bosch style relay? How much current?

MB
I think I may have misunderstood your earlier post. I'm in need of a relay to dim two separate LED systems. Neither are high current - 7A each.

I'm not particularly familiar with Bosch style relays but thought they are primarily used as SPDT switches rather than having any dimmer functionality. Would you happen to know of any Bosch style or similar relays offhand that have dimming capabilities - PWM - for use with LEDs?

And thanks again for the knowledge/advice!
 
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RAVAGE88

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I think I may have misunderstood your earlier post. I'm in need of a relay to dim two separate LED systems. Neither are high current - 7A each.

I'm not particularly familiar with Bosch style relays but thought they are primarily used as SPDT switches rather than having any dimmer functionality. Would you happen to know of any Bosch style or similar relays offhand that have dimming capabilities - PWM - for use with LEDs?

And thanks again for the knowledge/advice!
Oh, gotcha. I haven't typically dimmed led's using a relay, but let me do a little research and see what I can come up with that makes sense.

MB
 

HubbardTramper

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Oh, gotcha. I haven't typically dimmed led's using a relay, but let me do a little research and see what I can come up with that makes sense.

MB
Thanks for the offer. Very much appreciated! But I don't want to be giving you any homework!

I was thinking of using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-12275-Dimmer-Switch/dp/B002UC6Q0E/ref=psdc_15734181_t3_B08SMQVDC3

I know these (https://shop.atcomp.com/ah-sld-5-hs01) work very well with dimming LEDs but am trying to find something with a higher amperage rating. Ideally like to double and go for 15A.

Or possibly one of the wireless controllers from superbrightleds.com
 
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RAVAGE88

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Thanks for the offer. Very much appreciated! But I don't want to be giving you any homework!

I was thinking of using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-12275-Dimmer-Switch/dp/B002UC6Q0E/ref=psdc_15734181_t3_B08SMQVDC3

I know these (https://shop.atcomp.com/ah-sld-5-hs01) work very well with dimming LEDs but am trying to find something with a higher amperage rating. Ideally like to double and go for 15A.

Or possibly one of the wireless controllers from superbrightleds.com
Neither of those are a good choice for LEDs because it lowers source voltage. It says in the description it’s not recommended and generally, using any dimmer for LEDs isn’t a good thing.

There are LEDs (Baja Design) that have a low power mode. A switched ground is provided to a part of the internal circuit, referred to as a voltage divider and this lowers LED output by some percentage depending on the circuit itself.

I’ll see if I can find the controller you mentioned to see how it works.

MB

MB
 
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RAVAGE88

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The oldest of my two Shop Rats was a huge help today installing the new Carli Low Mount Stabilizer and Diff Guard. Aside from holding things in place while my older hands start the bolts, he's a great head rest so my neck doesn't get tired.

9-C6-E5-AC6-8-C0-D-4493-B19-E-66059-AFDF152-1-201-a.jpg


Diff Guard Mounted and Torqued
4803-B842-7-E8-F-422-B-AD04-9-D0-CFF52832-A.jpg


Stabilizer Mounted and Torqued. We followed the Carli instructions but noted an area that we were able to fine tune so the stabilizer was clamped such that we're assured proper travel. Full stroke of the stabilizer is 7 1/2" and I have 1/2" of cushion hard right and 1/4" of cushion hard left.
EE678-A5-C-6207-4-B1-C-B9-BE-B2-B960-E762-C4.jpg


Detail of Clamp
9-EB7222-E-0307-4-E8-A-B03-F-39536615-AC0-A.jpg


Michael getting the tire in place. He learned on a smaller set of tires and today, learned some nuances to making it easier to get the big ones in place.
112-D2488-6-D98-4892-A62-D-DB4-FEF665319-1-201-a.jpg


Starting the lugs at the bottom so it doesn't kick out.
26977398-ED85-4-BC2-B4-FF-E8-E8-FF485-A7-B.jpg


Setting everything flush, no torque.
951-A3584-AF37-4552-91-E7-46-A86052-DE64.jpg


Final Torque. The Snap-On Torque Wrench Michael is using was given to me by my Dad. He bought it in 1967, I was one year old. My Dad used it in his diesel work for 40 years and it was the first torque wrench I learned to use. It was handed down to me roughly 15 years ago, and it sees frequent use in my shop on Harley builds, truck stuff and belief it or not, torquing barrels to my custom made rifles. Now Michael has learned to use it and someday, it'll be his.
222-F2-FE7-AA1-A-4-A95-A8-CB-214185-EFAB74.jpg


The PMF Dual Steering Stabilizer I removed and sold was a really good system. Had I not hatched a larger plan for suspension upgrades, it would've stayed on the truck for a really long time. But now, I have to say, I'm incredibly happy with my decision to move to the Carli system. It feels great and along with the bone stock High Mount Stabilizer, I believe as effective as the two Fox 2.0s with the PMF System. The Carli High Mount Stabilizer is inbound and we'll get it installed as soon as it shows up.

After that, I'll do the Carli Torsion Sway Kit and other Carli components as they arrive. The PinTop will be done by my buddy at the local dealer along with the Complete Progressive Spring Packs. I'm systematically working on the Firestone Bags, Air Compressor and a host of other things as parts arrive.

MB
 
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HubbardTramper

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Neither of those are a good choice for LEDs because it lowers source voltage. It says in the description it’s not recommended and generally, using any dimmer for LEDs isn’t a good thing.

There are LEDs (Baja Design) that have a low power mode. A switched ground is provided to a part of the internal circuit, referred to as a voltage divider and this lowers LED output by some percentage depending on the circuit itself.

I’ll see if I can find the controller you mentioned to see how it works.

MB

MB
The ATC controller was the 12VDC LED dimmer most highly recommended by http://www.rv-project.com/gear/dimmers.php and
after a (seemingly thorough) testing of a wide range of dimmer switches. There also appears to be several people using it as a LED dimmer in the reviews - I just don't know about longevity.

I have other Baja Design LEDs with the low power mode (e.g. XL80s) and it works great. The LEDs for this application (Squadron Sport Flush Mount Angled) do not have a low power mode so I was hoping to use a dimmer. Baja Designs tech support said that any dimmer would do but didn't provide any specifics or qualifiers.

Thanks again for your advice. My backup is to just use the ATC controller or a TRIGGER ONE relay if I can't find a better solution.
 
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