Microwave run with Pro Power Onboard?

CATremor

Tremor Member
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California
Current Rides #1
'24 F350 CCLB Lariat
I have a 2024 6.7HO with Pro Power Onboard and am trying to figure out the easiest way to run a microwave. Scouring here and other forums, I've seen posts that an inverter microwave will/should work or putting a backup battery between the microwave and PPoB will work as well. I've read lots about startup surge and power efficiency, so I have a decent grasp on that. Hoping I can just find a microwave that will work without any other boxes.
 
I have a 2024 6.7HO with Pro Power Onboard and am trying to figure out the easiest way to run a microwave. Scouring here and other forums, I've seen posts that an inverter microwave will/should work or putting a backup battery between the microwave and PPoB will work as well. I've read lots about startup surge and power efficiency, so I have a decent grasp on that. Hoping I can just find a microwave that will work without any other boxes.
I don’t have pro power onboard in my F350 but I do in my Lightning. It would run a microwave with absolutely no problems. Hell it’ll run 1/2 of my entire house without any trouble.

What is the rated watts for YOUR pro power onboard?? Most microwaves use 1500-1800W so if it’s more than that it should be completely fine.

If you don’t know your rated power just look at the outlet cover it’ll tell you right on it.

More than likely if memory serves me the Superdutys have 2kW inverters. So….
If your microwave pulls less than 2000W (16A @ 120v) you should be gtg. That’s well within the realm of most microwaves.

My camper also has a 1500W inverter and we use a 1200W electric kettle in it all the time while running Starlink. No issues.

Your truck will have to be running during this time of course.

Oh and if you don’t know or it doesn’t say your microwave will have a sticker on the back that will have the Amp/ Watt draw.
 
I have a 2024 6.7HO with Pro Power Onboard and am trying to figure out the easiest way to run a microwave. Scouring here and other forums, I've seen posts that an inverter microwave will/should work or putting a backup battery between the microwave and PPoB will work as well. I've read lots about startup surge and power efficiency, so I have a decent grasp on that. Hoping I can just find a microwave that will work without any other boxes.
 
$900 for a fucking microwave?????


Edit

That’s 500W!!!!!!!! You’d be better off with a solar oven. That would take 5 mins to warm a cup of coffee lol.
 
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After spending $100k on a truck camper I am surprised you would notice 😂. All that money you saved going 7.3 and XLT pays for fhe nuker 😉
Valid point…. I bet @Chris-DTA has a microwave in his new rig????
 
Don’t look up prices for a built-in microwave nowadays then. You’re looking at at least double, plus you have to buy the trim kit on top. Haha
Well, i mean that’s in your house that you use everyday right? Not a one for your truck for camping. FWIW I think my microwave was like $79 at Walmart and I’ve had it for 9 years…. Works just fine. #PheasantLife
 
I don’t have pro power onboard in my F350 but I do in my Lightning. It would run a microwave with absolutely no problems. Hell it’ll run 1/2 of my entire house without any trouble.

What is the rated watts for YOUR pro power onboard?? Most microwaves use 1500-1800W so if it’s more than that it should be completely fine.

If you don’t know your rated power just look at the outlet cover it’ll tell you right on it.

More than likely if memory serves me the Superdutys have 2kW inverters. So….
If your microwave pulls less than 2000W (16A @ 120v) you should be gtg. That’s well within the realm of most microwaves.

My camper also has a 1500W inverter and we use a 1200W electric kettle in it all the time while running Starlink. No issues.

Your truck will have to be running during this time of course.

Oh and if you don’t know or it doesn’t say your microwave will have a sticker on the back that will have the Amp/ Watt draw.

Yes, PPoB is rated for 2,000 watt. I have a 700 watt Sharp (non-inverter) microwave and it won't run on PPoB. The microwave will start, but then the PPoB system faults and it shuts off. I did have the truck engine running. I have a 1,500 watt pure sine wave inverter in a different rig and it will run this microwave fine.
 
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Yes, PPoB is

Yes, PPoB is rated for 2,000 watt. I have a 700 watt Sharp (non-inverter) microwave and it won't run on PPoB. The microwave will start, but then the PPoB system faults and it shuts off. I did have the truck engine running.
That seems pretty unacceptable to me… i know starting currents are higher but if you can’t run a 700W (that’s tiny) microwave you can’t run much. I ran an Air Conditioner off mine for my house during a power outage and it worked fine. Those are very high AMP draw. Just a window shaker I mean….
 

Honestly. If you really need power why not invest in something like this? It’ll power anything you could want to and when you aren’t camping it’s great for home emergency’s. If nothing after seeing Helene’s damage it would be good to have.
 
I already have two gasoline generators and fuel stored in case of an emergency. I really just want a one box solution to hot lunch powered off my truck.
 
Valid point…. I bet @Chris-DTA has a microwave in his new rig????
Not yet. I am looking at an Air Fryer/Microwave combo, but I want to see my rig first and measure things out. I am definitely not a fan of these tiny 500W microwaves.
 
Yes, PPoB is rated for 2,000 watt. I have a 700 watt Sharp (non-inverter) microwave and it won't run on PPoB. The microwave will start, but then the PPoB system faults and it shuts off. I did have the truck engine running. I have a 1,500 watt pure sine wave inverter in a different rig and it will run this microwave fine.
As usual for manufacturing advertisements, all of the data is not exposed. This unit (typical Sharp "700 watt" microwave), is generally around 14 amps. That's around 1680 watts. With surge, it is likely higher. The PPoB may have a peak sensing circuit to cut it off should it approach the 2000 watts or sense a ground fault. (More complex than to explain here.) The 700 watt rating is the "cooking" power, not the consumption. Oddly enough, a different microwave may work fine with the PPoB. It's all based on how the microwave starts up and the tolerance of fault codes.


From Sharp on a 700 watt microwave operation manual:
. Power supply.• Check your local power source.This microwave oven requires a current of approximately 14 amperes, 120Volts, 60Hz and a grounded outlet.1. A short power-supply cord is provided to reduce the risks of the user becoming entangled in or tripping over a longer cord...

I do believe the PPoB is a pure sinewave, but I don't know it's limitations. Many aftermarket power sources will specify how much peak power they are capable of. PPoB may have this published somewhere as well. In theory, it should work but I know some have had issues with ground faults with them.

Incidentally, an induction heating pad will heat water just about as fast as a microwave and uses energy only when there is a ferrous pan attached. And has variable power. It's very compact and you can find them on Amazon. One of my favorite toys.

 
Here in Vegas we just keep food outside for several minutes and it's good to go. Very afordable and no watts needed 🤪.
 
Here in Vegas we just keep food outside for several minutes and it's good to go. Very afordable and no watts needed 🤪.
With sidewalks so hot, you can burn an egg. :LOL:
 
All - if you want to run a microwave using your 2KW pro power here is all you need to do - go buy a 700w microwave and run it on power level 9. The initial start up on full power is what causes the circuit to trip, but if you set the power level just under maximum, it works perfectly. I bought a $50 microwave from Walmart and have heated up all kinds of things using the truck. You just can’t run the microwave on full power. No additional items needed. Bon appetit.
 
I have the 2k system, and it will not run my wife's 1500w hair dryer from the bed. Not sure why. I used a watt meter to verify the hair dryers draw.

edited for correction.
 
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For the uninitiated, Pro power will send 400W's to the cab outlets and 2k only to the bed outlet. I have the 2k system, and it will not run my wife's 1500w hair dryer from the bed. Not sure why. I used a watt meter to verify the hair dryers draw.
I don’t know why yours would be different, but I can run over 1500w from the cab outlet. I am able to run the same wattage from all outlets in the truck. With this said, the 2000w rating is definitely inflated. Actual maximum draw seems to be closer to 1500-1600 watts, with a maximum start up spike around 1400-1500 without tripping the meter. If I try to run anything that has an initial draw over 1400, most of the time it will not work. If the item is running, I have seen over 1500 watts on the screen/meter, but that’s only after the initial start up.
 
Im curious if GMCs power in the bed is the same. Im in a tree stand and dont feel like searching. I couldnt run a cheap harbor freight impact wrench without it shutting off.
 
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