Let's talk refrigerators (non-console)

Chris-DTA

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I got the console safe/vault. I don't want the console refrigerator, but I would like to have one behind the driver's seat or passenger seat. Ideally something that uses the space very efficiently, but just behind the seat. Have you anything there that fits well and plugs into the power in the rear where the power outlet is from the front console? None of the local stores I visited for domestic or yeti have anything in stock that I could try first before I buy.

What do you have?
 
Hey Chris, I have the Dometic CFX55. It is very quiet and works great so far after several weeks of camping trips. I have only used it on 110V circuits and not in a 12V situation, but that is about to change.

I have been hesitant to run it on 12V as that seems to the common thread when reading the negative reviews on this unit. Not sure why people are having issues with running it on 12V, but I suspect the problems are more likely to stem from a weak vehicle battery, lousy connections from cigarette lighter sockets, and possibly a vehicle wiring gauge not suited to running refrigeration compressors.

I am thinking about running a dedicated wiring circuit from the rear of the cab directly to the battery with an appropriate gauge wire (not sure what that would be just yet) and an Anderson connector. Pretty sure our truck batteries are up to the task and giving the compressor the juice it needs to function properly with good wiring, the compressor will hopefully be a happy camper!

Interested to hear what others have done!
 
Hey Chris, I have the Dometic CFX55. It is very quiet and works great so far after several weeks of camping trips. I have only used it on 110V circuits and not in a 12V situation, but that is about to change.

I have been hesitant to run it on 12V as that seems to the common thread when reading the negative reviews on this unit. Not sure why people are having issues with running it on 12V, but I suspect the problems are more likely to stem from a weak vehicle battery, lousy connections from cigarette lighter sockets, and possibly a vehicle wiring gauge not suited to running refrigeration compressors.

I am thinking about running a dedicated wiring circuit from the rear of the cab directly to the battery with an appropriate gauge wire (not sure what that would be just yet) and an Anderson connector. Pretty sure our truck batteries are up to the task and giving the compressor the juice it needs to function properly with good wiring, the compressor will hopefully be a happy camper!

Interested to hear what others have done!
@James Bombed I think you're spot on about the wiring being the issues people have, here's a link where the video explains that the Dometic coolers have protection circuits that will turn the unit off if the battery voltage drops below 12 volts to protect the battery. In many 12V circuits, the gauge of wire is not really designed to supply the current required for these coolers, particularly if the engine is not running, so a dedicated circuit would be ideal. My guess is that the cooler will draw 78 watts running at 12 volts and 88 watts at 13.5V, (CFX-25) surge would be higher, the rated draw is 6.5A at 12 volts. Larger units such as the 36 and 55, draw even more current. CFX-55 is 8.9A at 12V, 120 watts at 13.5V. That's pushing the 12V socket near it's limit at best.

I don't own one of these coolers yet but was looking at these, maybe purchase one this summer. I too have the safe, which I find invaluable for peace of mind, don't want to give it up.

 
I just found this Dometic Hardwire Kit after owning this refrig for over a year. This is the way to do it, and I will get much more use out of my investment. I had no idea the cigarette lighter adapter comes apart and converts to a two-prong plug with a twist lock cap. Pretty slick!

 
I have been toying with the idea of removing the smaller section of the rear seat and replacing with a refrigerator. I have done similar in my Land Rover by replacing the rear center seat.

The refrigerators are life changing. No more ice to mess with, and my ARB unit works very well. I have found that with a 80ish watt solar panel on the hood that I can run it indefinitely without draining the battery. I did pull a dedicated 12v circuit for my install.
 
I have also been considering one of the Dometics... Started with the CFX35 and have thought of larger and smaller. With the price of these you get a better value the larger you go, if you will utilize the space.

There are others I have looked at - Bodega, Newair, etc - that are considerably less expensive, but my gut tells me that they won't have the longevity. I am still wondering if having wheels is a benefit or a detriment for my usage. They also have dual compartments which the Dometic line doesn't have until the larger units.

Dometic had a 20% sale over the holidays and I joined their mailing list to catch any sales when I'm closer to pulling the trigger...
 
Hey Chris, I have the Dometic CFX55. It is very quiet and works great so far after several weeks of camping trips. I have only used it on 110V circuits and not in a 12V situation, but that is about to change.

I have been hesitant to run it on 12V as that seems to the common thread when reading the negative reviews on this unit. Not sure why people are having issues with running it on 12V, but I suspect the problems are more likely to stem from a weak vehicle battery, lousy connections from cigarette lighter sockets, and possibly a vehicle wiring gauge not suited to running refrigeration compressors.

I am thinking about running a dedicated wiring circuit from the rear of the cab directly to the battery with an appropriate gauge wire (not sure what that would be just yet) and an Anderson connector. Pretty sure our truck batteries are up to the task and giving the compressor the juice it needs to function properly with good wiring, the compressor will hopefully be a happy camper!

Interested to hear what others have done!
How well does it fit behind the driver's or passenger seat? Is it level with the rear bench?
 
The cranking batteries aren’t suitable for running fridges except when the engine is running. (Or for short periods when the engine isn’t running.) Trying to secure the fridge is a challenge and while you can drill holes in the floor to help do this you may not want to. I didn’t want to do that so I put a drawer fridge in the back.
 
The cranking batteries aren’t suitable for running fridges except when the engine is running. (Or for short periods when the engine isn’t running.)
I have been leaning towards mounting this somewhere in the travel trailer for those reasons. It can then run off the 12V house batteries which is fed by 200W of solar (as long as there is ☀️).
 
I have the Dometic CFX3 95DZ (which is too big for what you're wanting), but just to give some insight, we use it in our expedition and it's been really nice. We actually use it in combination with the Dometic PLB40 Battery. You plug the fridge into the PLB40 battery and the PLB40 battery into the vehicle. When you turn off the vehicle it uses the PLB40 instead of the vehicle battery. It's also been nice for camping. The portable battery lasts a long time.
 
I have the Dometic CFX3 95DZ (which is too big for what you're wanting), but just to give some insight, we use it in our expedition and it's been really nice. We actually use it in combination with the Dometic PLB40 Battery. You plug the fridge into the PLB40 battery and the PLB40 battery into the vehicle. When you turn off the vehicle it uses the PLB40 instead of the vehicle battery. It's also been nice for camping. The portable battery lasts a long time.
That is kind of the plan I had to keep it powered. Thanks for sharing - I love it :) .
 
The cranking batteries aren’t suitable for running fridges except when the engine is running. (Or for short periods when the engine isn’t running.) Trying to secure the fridge is a challenge and while you can drill holes in the floor to help do this you may not want to. I didn’t want to do that so I put a drawer fridge in the back.
I will have a slide-in camper in the back. It only comes with a smaller-sized fridge and so I am planning to have one in the cab for drinks only. But I will also have a 70 lb Yellowlab in the back and so need a fridge that fits between the front and rear seat.
 
How well does it fit behind the driver's or passenger seat? Is it level with the rear bench?
Way too big for that. One important fact to remember is that the interior of these things is much smaller than the exterior size. I don't see the point of having anything smaller than the CFX55. Comes in handy when grocery shopping too, so it will be used often. If I wanted something smaller for behind the seat, then I would just use my Coleman lunchbox with freezer packs.
 
The cranking batteries aren’t suitable for running fridges except when the engine is running. (Or for short periods when the engine isn’t running.) Trying to secure the fridge is a challenge and while you can drill holes in the floor to help do this you may not want to. I didn’t want to do that so I put a drawer fridge in the back.
I removed the rear seats and built what is essentially a small carpeted deck with uni-strut rails. It is flat and level and also gives me room underneath for shoes, boots, etc. The uni-strut channels have plenty of holes for tie downs / straps and does a nice job of keeping things in place. For 2-person road trippin' it's the bees knees. Would be great for 4 legged friends as well.
 
I removed the rear seats and built what is essentially a small carpeted deck with uni-strut rails. It is flat and level and also gives me room underneath for shoes, boots, etc. The uni-strut channels have plenty of holes for tie downs / straps and does a nice job of keeping things in place. For 2-person road trippin' it's the bees knees. Would be great for 4 legged friends as well.
James, any chance you've posted a thread about that platform?
 
I ran a arb 50l in a Jeep with direct wiring to a single battery. The battery would charge while driving and power to the fridge would stay on with the car turned off. I was able to go 48+ hours parked without a dead battery but never went longer than that without driving to see how long it would last to a dead battery. 50 l is a good size and was more than able to keep stocked for a 5 person family. I almost considered going smaller to be honest. Even though the interior is not huge you don't need ice so you have alot of flexibility on how much it actually holds.
 
No sir. Maybe I can post a couple pics. It is really quite simple and self-explanatory.
Ok, here yo go. It's my prototype V1, so its gonna be remodeled with carpet and paint, but no changes as far as build.

This one is sized for a Supercab truck. Obviously a Crew Cab could be much larger.

5/8" OSB board - 58" x 24" with 2x4 legs in front, Uni-Strut rails from electrical dept at Home Depot, and 90 degree angle fittings that mount to seat studs on rear side.

It could be made an inch or so wider front to back, and 2 or 3 inches wider side to side, but it's fine for me as is.
 

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