Krown vs. Fluid Film vs. Amsoil

I bought the black fluid film and the spray kit both available on Amazon. I don't mind paying the extra for the kind with the black dye because is just makes all the things sprayed remain a shiny black finish instead of milky looking.

I did not treat any of the aluminum body surfaces. There really isn't much benefit to that. I did coat all bare metal surfaces on the underside of the truck such as the drive shafts and U-joint knuckles, steering linkage adjuster threads and so on. Unlike paint fluid film won't throw off the balance of the drive shaft as it remains soft and excess just flings off. I coated all metal frame and axil components and plan to retreat annually if not sooner. I think just before the salt season is a good time to retreat. Edit: I did brush a lot of the easy locations on the bottom of the truck as it reduces waste and overspray, makes for a much cleaner job.

Also fluid film is safe for all finishes and especially wiring and wire plugs. It even adds additional water proofing if sprayed or painted on wire connection plugs.

Here's a video series on using Fluid film that I found very informative. He also has follow up videos to determine effectiveness over the long haul.
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Damn that's awesome, appreciate the links and video. Do you use a hoist or a creeper? What's your air compressor setup for spraying? I wonder if my 20gal husky lower cfm compressor will handle the job.

As far as floor coverings go, do you lay down a tarp or moving blanket under the truck? How nasty is the overspray indoors? It's looking like a full tyvek suit, organic respirator, and swim goggles kind of job.
 
It can be a little messy and yes the more you cover up the better, especially breathing. I just roll out a layer of visqueen on the floor and I use a creeper as no lift yet. I do a lot with a brush and then hit the tight spots with the spray wand. Looking forward to a lift down the road. Just so happens that Greg Smith Equipment sales is within a mile of my house. Someday soon I'll invest in a four post lift.
 
I just had mine sprayed with krown. I had my 19 F-150 sprayed also. I think it does a pretty good job at limiting the rust. I don’t think anything with completely stop it but I was happy with the krown for 2 salty Pittsburgh winters.

The place by me charges $150 so it’s worth it to me to have someone else get dirty doing it.
 
Just shoot me .. Dirt or Gravel Roads make me cringe bad enough. A Salted Road would send me over the edge. Hell, I'm disappointed when I have to drive in the Rain.
 
Magnesium chloride is the DEVIL !!!!
Our state department uses boiled linseed oil thinned with mineral spirits and sprayed on with a garden sprayer.
Tried it and it works but messy......let me reiterate, messy.
 
If I go this route, I think spray it out doors with the front of the truck on ramps and 3-6mil visqueen underneath. If it's truly water soluble, any overspray should pressure wash right off the driveway. I hear you on the 4 post, I can retrofit my garage for one but it will be very costly. I have attic trusses on my 10' ceiling right now but if I blew them out and added ridge beam/rafters, I could lift the tremor in there.
Yeah, I am considering this route again. The closest Krown dealers in the SE Michigan area are Monroe, Port Huron, and there's one in Canada but the borders are still closed afaik. I also don't want them drilling holes in my aluminum doors but I'm not sure they'd warranty the job then...
Haha don't move to Michigan, we go through A LOT of salt.

I'm glad they don't use this anywhere near me, I also hear it's nasty stuff. Boiled linseed oil is great stuff and I've used it on raw iron vise restorations and it stays put, but I can't imagine working on my truck after spraying that shit on there ?

So it's down to Krown vs Fluid Film now, thank you all for the insight.
 
If I go this route, I think spray it out doors with the front of the truck on ramps and 3-6mil visqueen underneath. If it's truly water soluble, any overspray should pressure wash right off the driveway. I hear you on the 4 post, I can retrofit my garage for one but it will be very costly. I have attic trusses on my 10' ceiling right now but if I blew them out and added ridge beam/rafters, I could lift the tremor in there.

Yeah, I am considering this route again. The closest Krown dealers in the SE Michigan area are Monroe, Port Huron, and there's one in Canada but the borders are still closed afaik. I also don't want them drilling holes in my aluminum doors but I'm not sure they'd warranty the job then...

Haha don't move to Michigan, we go through A LOT of salt.


I'm glad they don't use this anywhere near me, I also hear it's nasty stuff. Boiled linseed oil is great stuff and I've used it on raw iron vise restorations and it stays put, but I can't imagine working on my truck after spraying that shit on there ?

So it's down to Krown vs Fluid Film now, thank you all for the insight.

I wouldn’t worry about the holes in the doors or the other places they put them. Just go to a reputable shop and I wouldn’t worry.

The place by me just opened up a couple years ago and they also do line-x the next closest place for either is a couple hours away. They had a big fire like 9 months after opening and were closed for a while. I was worried they wouldn’t be open in time to do the annual.
 
Amsoil here ,on the underside any steel parts or should I say all steel parts. Its a once a year application, I will apply product in the fall before they treat the roads for ice.

I do my own washes and plan to wash a lot at my shop. I don't use carwashes.
No product on the aluminum.
 
Amsoil here ,on the underside any steel parts or should I say all steel parts. Its a once a year application, I will apply product in the fall before they treat the roads for ice.

I do my own washes and plan to wash a lot at my shop. I don't use carwashes.
No product on the aluminum.
Totally agree. I took my old truck to the "high tech" car wash religiously to make it last longer and it has rusted out worst than any other vehicle I've ever owned, and it was even treated with Rustcheck! I'll never take this new truck to a car wash, hand washing only. And I'll do my own rust preventative annually myself.

Edit: I work in an industry that does CIP processes - that would be "Clean In Place" processes. Over the years I've learned that the solutions they use to clean equipment thoroughly are either highly acidic or highly caustic, and they are very effective. The problem is that they are used effectively on equipment that are made of very corrosion resistant materials like stainless, Inconel, and Titanium. Our trucks would dissolve in the presence of these cleaning solutions. The problem is that all cleaning solutions have these properties to some degree and are corrosive by nature.

For me it's basic soaps, lots of water to rinse clean, and ultra soft cloth to wash and dry.
 
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Texaco seven greases is what I used.
Henderson brothers in Midland Michigan did mine.

Is this the stuff they used? Looks interesting. Im reading great reviews on this place and I guess they're booked up for months. How messy was the treatment? They didn't nick or scratch panels/bodywork when removing door panels and headlights/taillights? What was the cost? How long is the guarantee?
 
Totally agree. I took my old truck to the "high tech" car was religiously to make it last longer and it has rusted out worst than any other vehicle I've ever owned, and it was even treated with Rustcheck! I'll never take this new truck to a car wash, hand washing only. And I'll do my own rust preventative annually myself.

Edit: I work in an industry that does CIP processes - that would be "Clean In Place" processes. Over the years I've learned that the solutions they use to clean equipment thoroughly are both highly acidic or highly caustic, and they are very effective. The problem is that they are used effectively on equipment that are made of very corrosion resistant materials like stainless, Inconel, and Titanium. Our trucks would dissolve in the presence of these cleaning solutions. The problem is that all cleaning solutions have these properties to some degree and are corrosive by nature.

For me it's basic soaps, lots of water to rinse clean, and ultra soft cloth to wash and dry.
Great point, I only hand wash at home because of the Ceramic coat on my cars and trucks. I use the foam cannon to shoot ceramic friendly soap all over the entire surface and below to loosen the dirt and grime. Then the famous two bucket wash method. It takes 30 min to wash the Tremor with a nice foam cannon blast to the underside. I use a gas leaf blower to dry. No towels.
I never wipe a surface with a dry rag or towel. My shop water is from a well with an iron filter and water softener. So there are never any water spots.
 
I put the amsoil HD product on this spring.

I like it, smell and consistency reminds me of Maxima motorcycle chain wax. But it does not dry tacky.

Did it myself in the driveway in about 45 minutes including dropping the spare. Did two coats in consecutive evenings.

So far so good, but like others, I hand wash so I can be gentle on it in comparison.
 

Is this the stuff they used? Looks interesting. Im reading great reviews on this place and I guess they're booked up for months. How messy was the treatment? They didn't nick or scratch panels/bodywork when removing door panels and headlights/taillights? What was the cost? How long is the guarantee?
I think it’s the same product. It wasn’t messy. They did a great job. Undercoating is what they do. It was $700 for the job. I waited 6 months for my appointment.
 
Great point, I only hand wash at home because of the Ceramic coat on my cars and trucks. I use the foam cannon to shoot ceramic friendly soap all over the entire surface and below to loosen the dirt and grime. Then the famous two bucket wash method. It takes 30 min to wash the Tremor with a nice foam cannon blast to the underside. I use a gas leaf blower to dry. No towels.
I never wipe a surface with a dry rag or towel. My shop water is from a well with an iron filter and water softener. So there are never any water spots.
Once you get the method down it's faster than driving to the car was and back. ? ??
 
I'm going to wash my tremor at home with the foam Cannon. Going to see if my plumber buddy will run 3/4" pipe from my softener to a spigot in the garage so I can use 1 micron sediment filtered, iron filtered, softened water for washes. I used to take it to a place with microfiber brushes and undercarriage wash but they always seemed to leave micro swirls in the paint.
Does it leave a sticky residue? That's the only thing I hated about Ziebart and Krown.
Wow, pricey. How long before you need a touchup? Do you have any photos of the work?
I hope to get to that point once I have a decent car wash setup. I think ceramic coating will help.
 
The ceramic coat is great. Its only as good as the installer. Tons of prep work to do it correctly and its not a wax but a coating. They have "ceramic" waxes. I put some on my Iconic Silver F350. I plan to get it ceramic coated but my guy is booked out. The Wax is pretty good but will wear off or should I say wears off in weeks. My Jeep was ceramic coated a few years ago and its still perfect. My velocity blue Tremor was Ceramic coated about a year ago and with a 30 min home wash is ready for inspection at a car show. It looks like brand new.

The car washes either scratch your paint with the "soft touch" or leave horrible hazing films from the products they spray on. The underbody flush barely evens gets anything off the bottom.

Home washes are the best. No swirl marks, no bad hazy and you can park it afterwards and enjoy your clean truck. Unlike the car wash it will probably get dirty again on the way home. For sure soft water at home is a must and try to wash in the shade. :cool: :cool: :cool:
 
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