Kill Switch

A semi-invisible toggle switch mounted under the dash that powers the fuel pump on or off directly from the battery is king. … Direct wired fuel pump switches are the way to go.
I know I’m responding to an old thread, but on a diesel I’d be very concerned about destroying the CP4 by starving it of fuel with a kill switch on the fuel lift pump. On diesel targeting the starter, shift lock solenoid, or TCM would be preferred.
 
Anybody ever figure out wiring for a switch in the fuel circuit? I’m perfectly capable of running one myself but haven’t gotten a schematic to figure out where to tap in.
 
I wish these trucks had a Secure Enclave and Face ID.
 
put a hidden switch in the brake light wire at the brake pedal, Switch is off the car can be started but won't come out of gear, switch on the brake circuit is intact and the car will shift out of gear. They had these use this on police cars the allow them to keep them running and noone can drive off with it
www.tremcopoliceproducts.com

Not sold to the public, it’s a law enforcement thing only
 
Well, I was unaware of the Police options until very recently and I hadn't considered that function at all. I think it's a really clever take on a classic anti-theft approach.

At it's core, this is the nature of the keyfob vulnerability.


It seems to me that the most effective counter to the fob specific class of flaws is behavioral rather than technological.

For example:
Use a Faraday box to store your fobs at the entrance to your home
DO NOT use the buttons on the fob to interact with the truck
DO use the proximity RFID button on the handle to unlock, and the numbered combo to lock.
DO understand the hallmarks of a repeater attack.

Can 2 or 3 people have the Ford Pass app installed and active at the same time

That way you could keep fobs in a RIFD box and use the remote start and lock feature on the phone instead of relying on the fob

I know people who keep the fob in a little RIFD pouch and have to pull it out to enter the vehicle as well as start/drive and then put it into the pouch after parking and locking(by touch) but that seems way excessive to me
 
All of you guys have great ideas and sound intelligent as hell on this matter. I am hoping one of you will tell me where or which wire (power or ground) goes to my fuel pump. All I need is the wire and I’ll do the rest. Anybody, please?
 
FYI- If anyone is wondering if the clip is valid (some dated YouTube comments made it look sketchy), I sent an email to the address in the video clip. Received a response within a few minutes with information about the kill switch offer, some basic install instructions and the price. Check it out if you’re interested in a kill switch.
Anyone have this product? Good or bad??
 
Thanks. Can you say if you like it or not?
 
So, I located my gasoline fuel pump and found the ground wire.
I found a good hiding spot in the cab of my truck and installed a battery cut off switch. I cut the fuel pump ground wire and re wired it into my cut off switch. Now, when it’s off, truck no start. The bad guy has to locate the fuel pump, and re wire it if he’s gonna start it. Where the cut off switch is located is actually inaccessible to someone if they break in. When it’s on, it works.
problem is, I have to remember to turn it off in order for it to work, that is happening slowly, but hopefully will soon be a habit
 
So, I located my gasoline fuel pump and found the ground wire.
I found a good hiding spot in the cab of my truck and installed a battery cut off switch. I cut the fuel pump ground wire and re wired it into my cut off switch. Now, when it’s off, truck no start. The bad guy has to locate the fuel pump, and re wire it if he’s gonna start it. Where the cut off switch is located is actually inaccessible to someone if they break in. When it’s on, it works.
problem is, I have to remember to turn it off in order for it to work, that is happening slowly, but hopefully will soon be a habit
Nice. I love that idea. I bought the product mentioned above. Have not installed it yet (hurt my hand (not truck related) and am waiting for my fingers to heal). But followed the instructions and located/identified everything I need to do.
 
So, I located my gasoline fuel pump and found the ground wire.
I found a good hiding spot in the cab of my truck and installed a battery cut off switch. I cut the fuel pump ground wire and re wired it into my cut off switch. Now, when it’s off, truck no start. The bad guy has to locate the fuel pump, and re wire it if he’s gonna start it. Where the cut off switch is located is actually inaccessible to someone if they break in. When it’s on, it works.
problem is, I have to remember to turn it off in order for it to work, that is happening slowly, but hopefully will soon be a habit
You can do this same thing, but rather than using a hard switch, you can use a relay and a proximity magnetic Hal switch to connect the ground wire circuit. Then epoxy the mag switch behind a plastic panel in the vehicle that only you know where it is. Trip the switch and start. Always activated. Use key on power through the switch to the relay trip. Every time you turn off the truck and the key on power drops off, it will re-arm. Then you can still wire in a secondary hard switch with a feed from battery power to the relay trip if you don’t want to have the system armed for whatever reason, such as use of remote start. If you do that, you must also put a diode in the magnetic switch line so you don’t back feed the key on circuit when the switch is on.
Just more ideas.
 
Do these trucks have an inertia cut off switch? Had this switch pop on a Ranger when I was traveling cross country back in the 1990, and no one could figure it out until I towed it from Southern Ca. to Vegas, then a garage othere told me about it. Simple button under the glove box


Yeah, that little red button caused a lot of grief for a lot of people!
It was an important part of the vehicles (crash) safety system which included the “kidnapping or accidental child locked in the trunk” scenario with the glow in the dark safety pull cord.
It was designed to pop when involved in a crash so to not “fuel the fire” and shut down the engine. Ford made it a very important part of the salesperson’s dog and pony show before they tossed you the keys to your new vehicle when you left the dealership for the first time.
Unfortunately most salespeople either forgot or didn’t care about it and the customer never knew it existed unless they read about it in the owners manual or discovered it while cleaning/vacuuming the interior of the vehicle, and then called the dealership to ask what it was for.
Or worse, found out about it the hard way when they hit a pot hole or even a curb hard and it popped and the owner couldn’t figure out why their vehicle shut down and wouldn’t restart. Over time, the tow companies learned about it and that would become a standard question for drivers of Ford’s that were calling for a tow for unknown reasons. “Have you tried pushing/resetting the little red button on the passenger side kick panel?”. Saved them a lot of wasted time responding to “disabled” vehicles requesting a tow.

As to answering the question, Ford did away with the red button in the pickups quite a while ago due to them experiencing numerous “false alarms” due to the nature of the beast. Loading material into the truck bed, hitching to a trailer, etc. hell, even slamming the tailgate was reported as tripping the button!

These days Ford has that fuel pump shutoff safety feature covered by a sensor that detects an event/crash and sends an electronic signal to the control module and shuts the engine down.

No more bending over and reaching for the red reset button either. Now it’s as simple as turning off the ignition and then trying to restart a couple times. Then you’re good to go!
 
Not sold to the public, it’s a law enforcement thing only

If there is an interest I can make a couple calls to see if that is reality or just a CYA thing for the seller.
The switch itself isn’t a weapon, an LEO identifier (like a badge/uniform) or other safety issue related item, so it might just be a seller imposed restriction? Or maybe liability issue? A non LEO vehicle equipped with it and the vehicle is involved in a crash and some attorney wants to blame it for the crash instead of the drivers blood alcohol level! 🙄
 
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