It's here! 11 days early. Toms build thread.

After the last outing/recovery a light upgrade to the box was next on the list. Getting tired of the old flashlight in the teeth search method. I'm not really up on the cheapest oversea item one can find but for this application I had no problem. $21.99 from Amazon and done.

I could of done light strips but not sure if that really provides light throw. They are bright to look at. I have a strip in a safe and it doesn't really do much so decided to get 4 "rock crawl/under body" advertised lights. For the cost no biggie to try.

Love them. Still some shadows with all the stuff mounted to my Builtright racks but overall 100% better than what I had.

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I had read on some forums people saying the Factory LED system in the box was 6v so that had me concerned. It isn't. 12v on the 2020. Maybe earlier years trucks did? Easy to wire. Just crawl under the truck and reach up to the oem box light. They click in via the top/bottom. Just click the bottom tab in and the light will release into the bed some. 2 wires on it. White was the power side if I remember right. I just tapped into both right at/near the plug to the factory light and fed the wires back into the box and up a hair to an oem hole conveniently located right where I needed one. From there on just some basic wiring. The wires from rack to rack I just tucked up into a slot in the bed cover and shoved some firm foam I had laying around to keep them in place. Pretty cheesy but works. I did this on both sides of the truck. So 2 lights tapped to the factory light on each side. I really wanted to use to factory switch. Works like a charm. I can turn the lights on from the bed or the button on the dash. (The cargo button on the dash also turns on box lighting.)

Rotopax blocks this factory LED completely.

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Wires exiting.

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This was the first one I did. I need to re-do whenever I get the energy again. I'll have to pull the rack to do it. I used the slot in the rack and need to go to the top and just drill a couple holes like I did on the other 3. The Hi-lift blocks some of the light throw downwards.

The builtright tech pouch that I keep my air hose/accessories in blocks this sides factory LED.

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The front 2 I didn't have to pull the rack (there isn't enough money to get me to remove this rack again) and just drilled 2 holes just a hair under the kits included socket head cap screw size and screwed them in. The racks are aluminum so the machine screw, in a way, self tapped in.

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Without stuff and with.

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At night.

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Tremor on a angled driveway... Needs a step for the step. lol

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Tom
Got the same problem, but for me it's the swing out toolboxes towards the rear, and gear up front that make the factory lights useless. Ordering those lights from Amazon now. Your truck looks great, very well thought out.
 
So I added more lights before this outing. GJ motorsports 3rd brake light kit with a NMO antenna mount. Ordered back at Thanksgiving during a sale they had and received it a few days back. Two fold, antenna up higher w/o holes in my roof and chase lights (I like to be seen). Both items were a home run!

Not too bad to install. Certainly easier with a second person.

First radio performance. Massive gains. I checked a couple local repeaters with my antenna located in the bed pocket mount then compared it to the new roof mounted location.

For example this Ham repeater. This is with my antenna mounted on the bed rail.

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This is with the antenna on the roof. Massive gains in performance.

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Second was chase lights. I like to be seen. This setup utilizes 3 Baja Designs S2 lights. Just remove the outer ring on them and install into the billet assy. I lost my bed camera but didn't care since I only use it to check whomever is behind me in a drive-through.

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Note: youngest daughter in the cab operating stuff she's never touched before.


Another shot showing the other lights i installed for chase/warning.


The center works via the cargo light button or reverse.

Here is just that light showing bed coverage (door was open which also turns it on) the tool box and flip up bed cover blocks some areas.

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This is with the cargo switch flipped. The 2 factory cargo lights are on plus the 4 led pods I installed on the built right racks.

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Tom
Awesome setup. I am doing something similar with a bulletproof diesel third brake light mount and an Icom 2730a. I was planning on connecting the radio to upfitter 4, but struggling to find a hole in the firewall on the passenger side to pass the wires through.

How did you wire power for your radio? Did you go to an upfitter, and if so, where did you go through the firewall?
 
Awesome setup. I am doing something similar with a bulletproof diesel third brake light mount and an Icom 2730a. I was planning on connecting the radio to upfitter 4, but struggling to find a hole in the firewall on the passenger side to pass the wires through.

How did you wire power for your radio? Did you go to an upfitter, and if so, where did you go through the firewall?
I always run direct to the battery on radios to avoid possible interference. There is a plastic (rubber) knock out plug under the passenger side floor board that I used for anything that I needed to go external (radio power and antenna coax when I was running a bed pocket antenna set-up). (Sitting in the passenger seat if your feet are as far back towards the seat that they can go the knock out plug would be under your right heel.) I just did a little X slice in the rubber plug and ran wires through that followed by some silicone to seal.

Tom
 
I always run direct to the battery on radios to avoid possible interference. There is a plastic (rubber) knock out plug under the passenger side floor board that I used for anything that I needed to go external (radio power and antenna coax when I was running a bed pocket antenna set-up). (Sitting in the passenger seat if your feet are as far back towards the seat that they can go the knock out plug would be under your right heel.) I just did a little X slice in the rubber plug and ran wires through that followed by some silicone to seal.

Tom
Yes, I found that and considered it. Wasn't sure if I would be introducing moisture to the cab in some way down the line. But silicon would take care of that. Thanks for the reply.
 
Did these about a month ago. Love them with the boat! Rigid D-Series Pro w/flood beam.

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Just did these this afternoon. Sitting here waiting for darkness so I can run out and test them... Mount still needs a little work to be dialed. Baby steps. Rigid D-SS Pro (side shooter's) w/spot main beam.

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Tom
Which pillar mounts did you get and how well to they work?
 
Used SNORR a few times after getting stuck in the powder dirt a few times. Once out by Henderson and the other time out at Armagosa Dunes.
 
Which pillar mounts did you get and how well to they work?
Those are "wing it" mounts. Lol. A couple bends of some steel stock that was laying around in the garage. Not the firmerest mount but worked. It was meant to be temporary until I got some SDHQ mounts but never got around to it. SDHQ rocks. A buddy has them on his diesel Tremor.

Tom
 
Used SNORR a few times after getting stuck in the powder dirt a few times. Once out by Henderson and the other time out at Armagosa Dunes.
We get around that's for sure. The lake has been the hotspot with the water going down. Sometimes into the low teens worth of recoveries on a weekend day.

Glad we could help!

www.snorr.vegas

Tom
 
This rig looks familiar

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Matt talks with SNORR at 23:36

 
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