I NEED HELP WITH A CONSTRUCTION QUESTION ABOUT POSTS FOR MY DECK

Iron Man

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I need a bit of help with figuring out what to do. I just finished building a deck. We put 11 - 4x4 posts to build 2 header beams to support the deck. We dug down 36" and tarred the bottom of the posts.
Now I have a friend that will dig under my deck, remove 8-12" of ground, level the area, and lay down concrete so I would be able to walk under my deck and not be bent over. He would be cutting 2 of my steps on the sunken stoop going out my back door. That means in certain areas where the posts are it will be 8-12" lower and the posts would then be in the ground only 24-30"
A major flaw in my design. Did not think about doing this when we were erecting the huge deck.
I am thinking I can use the auger (powered post hole digger) and dig next to one side of the post and go down 36", which would be 12" lower than the post after the ground is leveled and dirt is removed, and just pour more concrete. I really would love to dig on both sides of the post 36" but I don't have any temporary shoring. Maybe i would be able to do every other post in 1 day and then the next day do the remaining posts.
Would this work?
Any other suggestions or remedies?
My buddy did my driveways last year and he was going to start doing this later this week.
I'm really bummed that I could have just dug down 48" when we putting these Posts in.
I took on the this huge project on the spur of the moment and it came out really nice (the deck) BUT to have planned out everything in advance is always the way I ROLL. This has been a frustrating Project. Thanks for any help on this. πŸ‘Š πŸ‘Š πŸ‘Š πŸ™πŸ™πŸ™:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
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I would let you buddy do the work, pull a line and get some angle and tie into existing post( 4 ways) then add some re-bar and wire pretty heavy around the post then pour. I was going to say just drill post add rebar, but that may weaken existing post.
 

Bluezilla

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It may not sound great, but why don't you add a few more temporary posts and stagger then between your permenant ones (on concrete post blocks). Get a couple of bottle jacks and then you can knock out the ones that are set at incorrect depth and reinstall them after digging out the old footing.

Have you had the local muni check em out too?

If you're doing concrete slab below your deck, my recommendation is to remove the posts at incorrect depth and pour a concrete pier in its place that comes up above your finished grade and set a post on top of it via Simpson ties. Then your buddy can dig around them, install isolation membrane like sillguard, and then pour your new slab around your piers and they will remain independent structures. I'd advise against direct burial of posts and pouring concrete around them like that. They will be impossible to replace and will rot out in no time.

Edit* another alternative is to look at Diamond Piers, they are installed above grade similar to concrete blocks but you'll have to contact them regarding the slab pour - not sure they'll guarantee their product in that application.
 

Bluezilla

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This would be my worry too
Yup, piers buried below the frost line and at or slightly above grade is pretty much the only way to go in this application (think parking lot light pole installation). Which sucks because he's already done most of the hard work. @Iron Man, how bad do you want that concrete walkway below?
 
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Iron Man

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Yup, piers buried below the frost line and at or slightly above grade is pretty much the only way to go in this application (think parking lot light pole installation). Which sucks because he's already don't most of the hard work. @Iron Man, how bad do you want that concrete walkway below?
You all got me worried. I think this might not be worth it. Thanks for your advice.
 

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You all got me worried. I think this might not be worth it. Thanks for your advice.
Glad to help! It gets real tricky once there's a solid structure next to your posts. If not planned from the very beginning, water becomes a huge problem along with your below grade depth. I'd leave it as is, level it out as much as possible, install some nice high tensile landscape fabric with Staples and then pour some clean limestone or crushed granite there.
 
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Iron Man

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Glad to help! It gets real tricky once there's a solid structure next to your posts. If not planned from the very beginning, water becomes a huge problem along with your below grade depth. I'd leave it as is, level it out as much as possible, install some nice high tensile landscape fabric with Staples and then pour some clean limestone or crushed granite there.
I usually have plans for future projects all planned way in advance. Even years in advance. I torn down my deck because my stairs on my old deck were ready to fall down. I wax going to redo my deck in a few years but said screw it, let’s fo it now. I wanted gegg to new siding, new windows, sliding glass door before rebuilding my deck. Oh well. Must forge on. Thanks Ali and everyone with your advice.
I’m still going to secure those posts and have it leveled but now need to figure out what to get done under there.
πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ™πŸ™πŸ™πŸ˜‰
 
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The posts should be on top of the concrete.
Thanks for your advice. After a beautiful day riding out to Sag Harbor in the Hamptons today on my Harley with my wife (my squeeze), I was able to think about this.
So I want to have my friend level the ground and remove upto 12” of dirt. Then have him pour either footings or sonic tubes (I prefer footings) then add 10 new posts to secure the header beam. Then remove the ones that are there now before he pours that slab of concrete.
I really appreciate all the wisdom everyone shared with me. I’m going to do this the right way. Having that area under the deck will increase value to my home and be so awesome to have an area updated.
Sincerely Thank You My Brothers πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ™πŸ™πŸ™βœŒοΈβœŒοΈβœŒοΈπŸ˜‰
 

Bluezilla

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Thanks for your advice. After a beautiful day riding out to Sag Harbor in the Hamptons today on my Harley with my wife (my squeeze), I was able to think about this.
So I want to have my friend level the ground and remove upto 12” of dirt. Then have him pour either footings or sonic tubes (I prefer footings) then add 10 new posts to secure the header beam. Then remove the ones that are there now before he pours that slab of concrete.
I really appreciate all the wisdom everyone shared with me. I’m going to do this the right way. Having that area under the deck will increase value to my home and be so awesome to have an area updated.
Sincerely Thank You My Brothers πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ™πŸ™πŸ™βœŒοΈβœŒοΈβœŒοΈπŸ˜‰
Solid plan, sonotubes with bigfoot bases are also a good option. The wider they are the less you need typically (definitely consult with an engineer on this) . Once you go this route, your posts will last way longer than the previous direct burial method and you'll be a lot happier in the long run. 🍻 Look forward to seeing updates.
 
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Iron Man

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Solid plan, sonotubes with bigfoot bases are also a good option. The wider they are the less you need typically (definitely consult with an engineer on this) . Once you go this route, your posts will last way longer than the previous direct burial method and you'll be a lot happier in the long run. 🍻 Look forward to seeing updates.
I found my solution. It’s expensive but I just ordered 10 adjustable steel columns and 10- 6 1/8” clips. My friend will make 10 square footings.
I can’t thank you all enough to have made me realize that this needed a great result. The right result. I feel so much better going this route. 4,000$ for the posts and clips not including extra $ for footings. I wax dropping 25k$ to have 38x33’ paved and payed down with concrete.
Pavers will be an area of 17x38
Concrete will be an area of 16x38 plus removal of grading of dirt and cutting my steps.
Plus 750square feet of an grid system for easy pavers in front of the RV driveway for grass to grow through it.
It’s an expensive project but it will be awesome to have all of this done.
I needed all the help and wisdom from all of you, and by GODS Almighty Help HE had all of you give the advice I needed to make the right decision.
GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILIES.
SINCERELY THANK YOU
πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ™πŸ™πŸ™πŸ˜‰
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I'd have your guy place 4" structural foamboard insulation down and pour concrete on top of it, effectively adding about R20 insulation below the slab. This can be extended beyond the slab to add an insulation to protect the outer posts. This should safeguard your post footings. This is the same insulation they put under slabs that are used for radiant heat systems in buildings.
 
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Below the slab?
He had pored a slab under my pavers with gravel underneath it. Then pavers.
Concrete he laid gravel and placed metal grating in the mix.
I’m asking for more clarity. I thank you for your advice and wisdom. πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ™πŸ™πŸ™πŸ˜‰
 

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Below the slab?
He had pored a slab under my pavers with gravel underneath it. Then pavers.
Concrete he laid gravel and placed metal grating in the mix.
I’m asking for more clarity. I thank you for your advice and wisdom. πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ‘ŠπŸ»πŸ™πŸ™πŸ™πŸ˜‰
Typical heated slab is for snow melt driveway would be dug out to allow for material thickness. Then a layer of stone for drainage, vapor barrier plastic sheeting, then foam board insulation, then 4" slab over foam to finish height. In your case the foam board would insulate the ground, significantly reducing the frost depth of the area under the insulated area. You can extend the insulation past the slab and burry with dirt out say 36" beyond the outer posts. When finished it a concrete slab with lawn coming up to the edge of the concrete.
Here is an illustration of the rough principal applied to your situation. Disregard everything other than the slab construction in this illustration:
1631077406508.png
 
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