Car hauler / multi-pupose, encosed trailer tiedowns

WhiskyThrottle

Tremor Fiend
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Location
Central TX
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retired
Current Ride
18’ GT350; 21'AMB F-350 Tremor
I'm upgrading my trailer to something I can use to move my car and bikes. It's 8.5x24 enclosed. the trailer only has four 5k recessed D rings in each of the four corners. I want to move a couple cars (one at a time) and a few motorcycles at some point. I really like the idea of E-track but never used it and have never loaded a car in a enclosed trailer. I would like to find advice on a good setup, system and any advice or recommendations from experienced people.
I don't plan to move these things often.. but maybe.. ?‍♂️
I would like to keep it lower budget but future proof, as I'm running out of money.
Any ideas?

*edited for clarity
 
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I'm upgrading my trailer to something I can use to move my car and bikes. It's 8.5x24 enclosed. the trailer only has four 5k recessed D rings in each of the four corners. I want to move a couple cars (one at a time) and a few motorcycles at some point. I really like the idea of E-track but never used it and have never loaded a car in a enclosed trailer. I would like to find advice on a good setup, system and any advice or recommendations from experienced people.
I don't plan to move these things often.. but maybe.. ?‍♂️
I would like to keep it lower budget but future proof, as I'm running out of money.
Any ideas?

*edited for clarity
I am a fan of the track tie down systems for flexibility. Etrack is a little bit more budget friendly than L track for doing long runs. If funds were not a issue I personally would go with flush Mount L track for a cleaner end product. Both styles have nice motor cycle wheel chock options available for a convenient adder down the road. When hauling cars I usually use axle straps / frame hooks with the factory 5K D rings. My trailers’ factory d rings have extra frame reinforcements and why I opt to use them on heavier cars. You can slowly add the track over time which has been more budget friendly for me as well. Straight down the center track pictured is good for ATVs but after adding additional track at the wheel base of a car on the floor (not pictured) gives much better flexibility in my opinion. I would probably not have done the center run had I gone the wheelbase route in the beginning. Be careful once you start adding track it can snowball but has really made the trailer more versatile in my opinion.
 

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I am a fan of the track tie down systems for flexibility. Etrack is a little bit more budget friendly than L track for doing long runs. If funds were not a issue I personally would go with flush Mount L track for a cleaner end product. Both styles have nice motor cycle wheel chock options available for a convenient adder down the road. When hauling cars I usually use axle straps / frame hooks with the factory 5K D rings. My trailers’ factory d rings have extra frame reinforcements and why I opt to use them on heavier cars. You can slowly add the track over time which has been more budget friendly for me as well. Straight down the center track pictured is good for ATVs but after adding additional track at the wheel base of a car on the floor (not pictured) gives much better flexibility in my opinion. I would probably not have done the center run had I gone the wheelbase route in the beginning. Be careful once you start adding track it can snowball but has really made the trailer more versatile in my opinion.
I am leaning towards Etrack. I think starting with the areas where the car tires would be would work?
I had not considered that the factory D rings would be more secure. The D rings may be more difficult to use in my case as the car sits pretty low and very few reachable chassis components.
 
I am leaning towards Etrack. I think starting with the areas where the car tires would be would work?
I had not considered that the factory D rings would be more secure. The D rings may be more difficult to use in my case as the car sits pretty low and very few reachable chassis components.
Wheel straps / nets with a idler brackets may be a better option for your case with etrack where the tires sit. I went with 10’ sticks from a local trailer shop and it was cheaper than most online retailers. May be worth checking with your local shops.
 
If you don't have the trailer yet, have them build in a drivers side escape door that you can open on the trailer so you can open the car door for easy in and out. Unless you're going to have a winch in the floor to pull the car in every time.

You can also have extra d-rings added.
 
We have an Intech Trailer that came with "airline track" which is the same in the earlier Amazon link. So much more sturdy than etrack and it holds everything down very tight. We use over the tire straps and haul many different cars and the airline track offers a ton of flexibility. Check out Macs Custom Tie Downs. I would not order another trailer without it.
 

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If you don't have the trailer yet, have them build in a drivers side escape door that you can open on the trailer so you can open the car door for easy in and out. Unless you're going to have a winch in the floor to pull the car in every time.

You can also have extra d-rings added.
The escape door was on the list while shopping but not a must have. It was difficult to find one that met my needs/budget. Trailers are selling like crazy now. I'm planning to pick it up in a few days and move by the end of the month.
I like the E-track plan. I was hoping to have time to finish the floor and inside a bit before adding permanent fixtures.. but I said that with my last trailer too ?‍♂️. I may try to use the D rings somehow, temporarily until I get settled at my destination.
I appreciate all the input.
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I have a 24ft ATC Quest hauler that I have many miles on carrying several cars from light like my Cayman, to heavyweights like my wife's Trackhawk. I have to say that if you thing the escape door is not mandatory, then you've probably not had one, lol. The ones like ATC and Intech do are awesome.
As to tracks and straps, I have D-rings front and back but use L-track on the walls. I think I would prefer E-track for the floor if the trailer allows it to be flush, but I would not want anything that might corrupt the structure of the floor. E-track had better options for straps, especially over wheel and idler. One area where I would still not want to lose my D-rings is that they are attached through the floor to the frame and I use a SuperWinch Winch2Go strapped to the front rings when I have to drag a car up. I would not strap the winch to a track system unless I had no other options.
 

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