Bill D’s build thread

Got my TuffSkinz installed from the group but. They add a nice pop to the dash. Mine are the matte black.
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Today was Built Right day in my Tremor. Added the console lid panel and the seat back panels.

The console lid came right out. Maybe a 10 minute job.
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The seat back panels were a little more involved. To install the bottom bracket, you have to undo the seat back trim. There’s two elastic straps on the bottom and a plastic lip across the back it clips to. The elastic is under a couple wiring harness clips. Once you pull those out, you can free the elastic.
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To undo the plastic that runs across the back I moved the seats all the way forward and it was easy to access from the front door.

There’s two holes that the bottom bracket bolts to.
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From there, put the trim back together and bolt on the panels. The whole job probably took me an hour. But I really like the way they turned out. They’re solid!

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I like it. Let me start by saying that I didn't dislike the way it drove from the factory. I only had a few of the "dead pedal" moments that we hear so much about and I was always impressed with the get up and go. But with this thing... Whoa. The nice part of having the iDash displaying the Pedal Monster is that you can see the two bars of stock vs Banks. Where I'm at is usually about double the sensitivity of stock. It's low enough that I don't blow the tires off at stop signs, but if you stomp on it you get thrown back. The track mode is just nuts.

The iDash gives a lot of functionality for both the Pedal Monster and viewing parameters. I really wanted a way to view exhaust temps for towing and monitoring regen cycles, but they give you so much more information.
 
Just realized I never posted about the Fumoto valve I installed during my first oil change.
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Big thanks to @Patriot for sorting out the correct part number. I contacted Fumoto before my install and they sent me a correct replacement and return packaging. Their customer service was very good.
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Should make the next oil change even easier.
 
Today I installed my B&W Turnover ball. All in all, not too bad of an install. Took about 3 hours by myself in the driveway. The worst part is the drivers side front brackets. That’s where all the DEF stuff is and it makes it all tight. Overall I am very impressed with the quality of the parts and sturdiness of the build. I think it’s a way better hitch than the factory option I used spray in bedliner to seal up the raw metal where I drilled.

I had to trim some of the plastic for the pin release, but no other mods required. One note, the instructions say to measure 45.5” from the rear of the bed for the center of the 4” hole for the ball. 46” would have been the perfect number on my truck. Everything still fits, but the hole is off by about 1/8” toward the rear. I also would have greatly appreciated a template for the safety chain holes.

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They’re more rubber. Not a slick plastic type feel like the Weathertechs. So far they’re holding up great. I’m in my truck every day in my steel toes and don’t treat them kindly. But they scrub clean pretty easy and have only gotten a smoother feel. No significant wear or staining and they fit as good 15 powerwashes later as they did day one.
 
They’re more rubber. Not a slick plastic type feel like the Weathertechs. So far they’re holding up great. I’m in my truck every day in my steel toes and don’t treat them kindly. But they scrub clean pretty easy and have only gotten a smoother feel. No significant wear or staining and they fit as good 15 powerwashes later as they did day one.
Thanks for the reply. Just ordered mine, and will be sending the Maxliners back. They look nice and all, but I did not like the "plastic" aspect of them
 
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I finally took some time to Plasti-Dip the dumb chrome strip on the tailgate. I used painters tape and some newspaper to tape the area off before painting. I should have taped more newspaper over the rest of the tailgate. There was a small amount of overspray that collected on the bottom of the inset for the SUPER DUTY logo spot. But, Plasti-Dip is easy to work with and the little overspray rubbed right off. Overall, it came out ok and looks better than the chrome, but someday I’ll have to have it professionally painted. The Plasti-Dip has a slightly rubbery look that doesn’t quite match.

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The lights came from Custom Autoworks.

All the molle panels came from BuiltRight Industries.

They're both top-quality products. My buddy has a Chevy (which BuiltRight doesn't make panels for yet) and my build drives him crazy.
 
The lights came from Custom Autoworks.

All the molle panels came from BuiltRight Industries.

They're both top-quality products. My buddy has a Chevy (which BuiltRight doesn't make panels for yet) and my build drives him crazy.
Thanks man! Molle panels really is a must.
 
Finally got her back from the ceramic shop. Xpel ultimate plus PPF on all the front facing surfaces, Xpel prime xr plus 20% tint on the front windows to match the factory tint on the rears, and a full three layer ceramic coating. Total was around $1,500 and it took about 4 days.

Installer said he only found two places where there were runs in the clear, behind the driver headlight and on the bottom of the front bumper. He noted that the PPF kit was an animal to install, but I think it turned out great.

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What is the issue with the front screws on the weather tech flaps, I have some coming? Please advise. We're the rear straight forward
 
What is the issue with the front screws on the weather tech flaps, I have some coming? Please advise. We're the rear straight forward
They’re too short. The back are 100% straight forward. The front needs like an extra half an inch or so. There’s a video by @Nyskiya that details it exactly. WeatherTech has been known to send the correct hardware, or you can go to a local hardware store and find suitable replacements.
 
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