Automatic Hubs Not Engaging

[Mach'er]

This past weekend, I went up north to our property. We have a unimproved driveway which leads back to the pole barn we built, and I planned on doing some maintenance and upgrades. Anyway, there was about 6-8" of snow cover, plus the plow wash at the driveway entrance. No problem, I thought. Knob turned to 4H, told my daughter, "watch this...".

As soon as the rear wheels hit the plow wash, I was stuck like a... well, like a dumbass stuck in a snow bank. After some rock cycling, I gave up, and walked up to the barn to grab a shovel. Then, walked back to the truck and dug out some around the wheels. It was obvious that the rear wheels were spraying some 'rooster tail' as I was trying to get unstuck - with no sign of any such spinning indication from the fronts.

So, I got back in the truck, and had my one daughter observe. Sure enough, nothing happening up front. Therefore, I got out and engaged the manual hubs. And like magic, I was immediately unstuck, and able to drive back to the barn, do my work, have some fun in the snow with the truck, and then leave (disengaging the manual hubs after I was back out on the road). 4 wheel drive worked great and properly, but only thanks to the back-up manual hubs.

Anyway, other than a warranty claim trip back to the dealership, does anyone have any quick or easy checks I can perform myself? Any known electrical or vacuum lines to look at related to this system - or anything?

Thanks. And yes, it took 2.5 months of ownership before I even tried the 4WD. But it was fun when I finally used it.

 

[Globalhawk]

I believe it's pretty much the same.

 

[inthegap18]

Might have knocked something loose(vacume line, wire) when you went thru that wash
Gonna have to crawl up under and have a look see
Good luck and let us know

 

[PapaRaptor]

You probably need a service visit to make sure the system is functioning.

I had a new truck and found out after 6 months the power door lock button on the passenger front side door was not working. It was never plugged in behind the door time inside the door ( probably a Monday build). You probably have a loose connection or something easy but its not your problem to find it. Let the tech deal with it. Enjoy some stale popcorn or doughnuts and get caught up on Judge Judy in the waiting room.

 

[ECHO-24]

I had the same issue with my 2012, it would kick in and out of 4x4 unless I would lock the hubs in.

 

[PapaRaptor]

One thing to be aware of. If you have aftermarket wheels. The hub locking dials may not be accessible with certain brand of Wheels depending on the center caps. I upgraded to Fuel Beast Wheels and I could pull the cap off from the front to turn the hub if needed.

Or if I go hard core off roading I would remove the center caps prior to my session off road.

 

[Mach'er]

You probably need a service visit to make sure the system is functioning.

I had a new truck and found out after 6 months the power door lock button on the passenger front side door was not working. It was never plugged in behind the door time inside the door ( probably a Monday build). You probably have a loose connection or something easy but its not your problem to find it. Let the tech deal with it. Enjoy some stale popcorn or doughnuts and get caught up on Judge Judy in the waiting room.

I know I need a service visit in my head. But my wrenching side (and my gotta go to work side) says "give it a shot!"

I'll just give it a cursory once over before I go in for the COVID-limited [no popcorn, no coffee, no doughnuts] appointment.

And, after watching @Globalhawk's linked video, I'm not buying that tool anyway for a truck under warranty - so just a looksee to determine if I just have something unplugged. Besides, I have priorities, and I could buy like 2 lbs of powder (and not much else) on gunbroker for that 300 bucks (a little reloading supplies shortage joke there for anyone that knows what Varget or whatever should cost...).

Thanks all.

 

[Tx-Tremor6.7]

I know I need a service visit in my head. But my wrenching side (and my gotta go to work side) says "give it a shot!"

I'll just give it a cursory once over before I go in for the COVID-limited [no popcorn, no coffee, no doughnuts] appointment.

And, after watching @Globalhawk's linked video, I'm not buying that tool anyway for a truck under warranty - so just a looksee to determine if I just have something unplugged. Besides, I have priorities, and I could buy like 2 lbs of powder (and not much else) on gunbroker for that 300 bucks (a little reloading supplies shortage joke there for anyone that knows what Varget or whatever should cost...).

Thanks all.

Let us know how it goes.

Reminder to self, check 4WD at dealer before driving new truck home 300+ miles...

 

[PapaRaptor]

what does an 8lb. of Varget go for today?

 

[Mach'er]

what does an 8lb. of Varget go for today?

8 pounds in a store would be $210 - $250ish. Over in crazyland, given the panicking and shortages, it's going for $600+. If the seller takes credit cards, people are paying more (sometimes lots more).

It really seems people are starting to buy just try to flip stuff. It's like a shark feeding frenzy over there. I'm just waiting for supplies to start trickling into stores again, and pop that bubble, even if that means limiting some range time this year.

 

[PapaRaptor]

8 pounds in a store would be $210 - $250ish. Over in crazyland, given the panicking and shortages, it's going for $600+. If the seller takes credit cards, people are paying more (sometimes lots more).

It really seems people are starting to buy just try to flip stuff. It's like a shark feeding frenzy over there. I'm just waiting for supplies to start trickling into stores again, and pop that bubble, even if that means limiting some range time this year.

My sniper partner always told me to " buy it cheap and stack it deep" He is a wise man and can do more than read wind.

 

[Colfaxent]

This past weekend, I went up north to our property. We have a unimproved driveway which leads back to the pole barn we built, and I planned on doing some maintenance and upgrades. Anyway, there was about 6-8" of snow cover, plus the plow wash at the driveway entrance. No problem, I thought. Knob turned to 4H, told my daughter, "watch this...".

As soon as the rear wheels hit the plow wash, I was stuck like a... well, like a dumbass stuck in a snow bank. After some rock cycling, I gave up, and walked up to the barn to grab a shovel. Then, walked back to the truck and dug out some around the wheels. It was obvious that the rear wheels were spraying some 'rooster tail' as I was trying to get unstuck - with no sign of any such spinning indication from the fronts.

So, I got back in the truck, and had my one daughter observe. Sure enough, nothing happening up front. Therefore, I got out and engaged the manual hubs. And like magic, I was immediately unstuck, and able to drive back to the barn, do my work, have some fun in the snow with the truck, and then leave (disengaging the manual hubs after I was back out on the road). 4 wheel drive worked great and properly, but only thanks to the back-up manual hubs.

Anyway, other than a warranty claim trip back to the dealership, does anyone have any quick or easy checks I can perform myself? Any known electrical or vacuum lines to look at related to this system - or anything?

Thanks. And yes, it took 2.5 months of ownership before I even tried the 4WD. But it was fun when I finally used it.

I had the same issue on mine after installing my 1 1/2" leveling kit. When pulling the front radius arms way down to gain clearance to get springs back in place it caused the vacuum line on the left front to disconnect right beside the spring mount. I didn't realize it at the time but soon found when trying 4x4 it didn't engage. After quick inspection I found line disconnected. Reinstalled and Bingo had 4x4. Take a look an easy fix to an issue I caused. Jim

 

[Maximum Effort]

This past weekend, I went up north to our property. We have a unimproved driveway which leads back to the pole barn we built, and I planned on doing some maintenance and upgrades. Anyway, there was about 6-8" of snow cover, plus the plow wash at the driveway entrance. No problem, I thought. Knob turned to 4H, told my daughter, "watch this...".

As soon as the rear wheels hit the plow wash, I was stuck like a... well, like a dumbass stuck in a snow bank. After some rock cycling, I gave up, and walked up to the barn to grab a shovel. Then, walked back to the truck and dug out some around the wheels. It was obvious that the rear wheels were spraying some 'rooster tail' as I was trying to get unstuck - with no sign of any such spinning indication from the fronts.

So, I got back in the truck, and had my one daughter observe. Sure enough, nothing happening up front. Therefore, I got out and engaged the manual hubs. And like magic, I was immediately unstuck, and able to drive back to the barn, do my work, have some fun in the snow with the truck, and then leave (disengaging the manual hubs after I was back out on the road). 4 wheel drive worked great and properly, but only thanks to the back-up manual hubs.

Anyway, other than a warranty claim trip back to the dealership, does anyone have any quick or easy checks I can perform myself? Any known electrical or vacuum lines to look at related to this system - or anything?

Thanks. And yes, it took 2.5 months of ownership before I even tried the 4WD. But it was fun when I finally used it.

My latest discovery came the other day driving in a little bit of snow with my wife. The roads looked slick so I put the truck in 4x4. If I gave it a little gas, the traction control light would flash. I told my wife “these are the absolute worst tires I have ever had on any truck....ever!!!” And drove carefully the 4 miles home. The next day I was towing my dump trailer and the roads had a dusting of snow plus the sand they put on the roads, so I put it in 4x4 once again. Again the traction control interfered every time I got in the throttle at all. I was thinking these fucking tires are.......wait.....what if ....?? It is at this point I stop, get out and turn the hubs from “auto” to “lock”. I jump back in and take off giving it a good amount of gas. Wow!! NOW it’s in four wheel drive!! So apparently I have a bad solenoid or a vacuum leak. For now I will leave the hubs locked in, it’s not like its going hurt the 12mpg I’m getting with the 7.3 lol.

 

[thevol]

I was going to start a new thread but saw this one... My auto hubs seem to be acting weird. I have never owned a truck with auto hubs so maybe I just dont understand how to use them properly. My past vehicles have had manual locking hubs or permanantly locked hubs so I always knew when they were locked or not. Between the electric transfer case and the auto hubs seems like there are times when a hub doesnt lock right away and I have to back up or wait a few secs, it may be one or both hubs. I am in the habit of just putting in 4wd right when I need it but seems like in this truck you need to plan it out ahead of time or just manually lock them? I have also had it ratchet or grind if I am spinning the back tires and the hub hasnt fully locked in, that is cringeworthy...

Anyway is that how these things work or am I doing something wrong. How do you engage 4wd "on the fly"

 

[Mach'er]

Just to follow-up on my Auto Locking hubs issue... I took my truck to the dealer, and dropped it off for a 2/8 appointment. They called late that afternoon, and stated that there was no vacuum at the locking hubs, and the vacuum regulator/solenoid and checkvalve were going to be replaced - but that it would take till Thursday, 2/11, for the parts to be available.

I called on 2/11, and the parts had indeed arrived, and they said it would be first up on Friday morning for the work. Sure enough, got the call on Friday, picked her up, and all is well. They had my truck for the better part of five days.

So, I don't know if it was the vacuum regulator/solenoid, or the checkvalve, or even if that is two separate parts (because I haven't done the legwork to try to figure that out myself), but it's fixed now and is functional - and I confirmed it in their dry pavement parking lot before driving away.

 

[Mach'er]

I was going to start a new thread but saw this one... My auto hubs seem to be acting weird. I have never owned a truck with auto hubs so maybe I just dont understand how to use them properly. My past vehicles have had manual locking hubs or permanantly locked hubs so I always knew when they were locked or not. Between the electric transfer case and the auto hubs seems like there are times when a hub doesnt lock right away and I have to back up or wait a few secs, it may be one or both hubs. I am in the habit of just putting in 4wd right when I need it but seems like in this truck you need to plan it out ahead of time or just manually lock them? I have also had it ratchet or grind if I am spinning the back tires and the hub hasnt fully locked in, that is cringeworthy...

Anyway is that how these things work or am I doing something wrong. How do you engage 4wd "on the fly"

Did you watch the video (up above) that @Globalhawk posted? Give it a watch, if you haven't. It explains the system pretty well.