Audiophiles

usafrcm90

Tremor Buff
Joined
Feb 23, 2020
Messages
54
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108
Location
Tucson
Military
Air Force
Current Ride
7.3 Tremor
Current Ride #2
coyote swapped 95' mustang
I will collect the tremor this weekend and I before even listening to the factory stereo, I know I will be disappointed in the base sync system performance. Does anyone have audio experience with the sync system? Not looking for competition quality by any means, but I do enjoy a bit more clarity and bass. Has anyone already done this or have any recommendations?
 
I will be watching this one. I find the sound quality quite good, but the volume unimpressive.

Ed
 
I have the B&O and think it's just fine. No complaints. I don't need so much bass that my license plate to vibrates like a Honda civic but I do enjoy quality audio. I have no complaints with the audio quality.
 
Mine has the B&O its fine. But not like my "Alpine" deck with the "Jensen" speakers that I had in High School. Since its a personal taste the opinions can and will vary.
 
The B&O in my Lariat is way better than the stereo I had in my 2016 F150, so I wouldn't even know where to start improving on it. Will be watching this thread.
 
The B&O in my Lariat is way better than the stereo I had in my 2016 F150, so I wouldn't even know where to start improving on it. Will be watching this thread.
I absolutely agree with this point... I feel the same.
 
Alright, so after just a little bit of looking I've pieced together a few items, but not yet finalized. I have yet to collect the truck and want to measure for box size behind the seat before ordering to ensure everything is optimized. The system isn't anything crazy, but should outperform the standard and B&O audio systems these trucks come with by a fair margin without dropping a lot of cash. I will build a ported box and a nice amp rack behind the seat for a factory fit and finish. I've only dabbled in the audio world, so if you guys have experience I'd look forward to any recommendations!

For the line output,
I'm looking at the Audio Control LC7i to convert from the factory head unit to the amplifier so we can send clean signals to the amp.

Amplifier,
Kenwood Exceleon XR901-5 5channel amp, Class D, and rated to: 60w RMS x4 and the 5th channel at 400w RMS at 4ohms

Door Speakers,
Rockford Fosgate P165-SE 6.5" They are rated at 60w RMS at 4ohms

Sub,
Kenwood Exceleon KFC-XW1200F 12" shallow mount rated to 350w RMS at 4 ohms
 
I have zero experience upgrading sound systems. Are all the components you list required or can I just upgrade the speakers for a start? It is a simple remove and replace?
 
I have zero experience upgrading sound systems. Are all the components you list required or can I just upgrade the speakers for a start? It is a simple remove and replace?

You can replace just the speakers, but probably not gaining much performance. "Your factory stereo uses preset equalization designed to make cheap factory speakers sound better, meaning that it automatically adjusts the different frequencies, creating audio "peaks and valleys" which can degrade sound quality. It is particularly noticeable when you add amplifiers, speakers and subwoofers to your setup, as any deficits in the sound are literally amplified. Most factory stereos also limit the bass output as volume increases in an attempt to protect the speakers. The trouble is, even if you upgrade your speakers and install an amp and subwoofer, the bass output is still limited by your factory stereo. This throws your system out of balance and makes the bass sound muddy and weak."

You have to ask yourself what you want and what you're willing to pay. I set my budget at $1000 and should be + or - $50 building the box and amp rack myself while having 0awg cable sitting around. A lot of people forget the little items and they add up quick, but if you shop around you can find great deals. I could build another for probably $500 or $5500 but results would greatly vary.
 
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You can replace just the speakers, but probably not gaining much performance. "Your factory stereo uses preset equalization designed to make cheap factory speakers sound better, meaning that it automatically adjusts the different frequencies, creating audio "peaks and valleys" which can degrade sound quality. It is particularly noticeable when you add amplifiers, speakers and subwoofers to your setup, as any deficits in the sound are literally amplified. Most factory stereos also limit the bass output as volume increases in an attempt to protect the speakers. The trouble is, even if you upgrade your speakers and install an amp and subwoofer, the bass output is still limited by your factory stereo. This throws your system out of balance and makes the bass sound muddy and weak."

You have to ask yourself what you want and what you're willing to pay. I set my budget at $1000 and should be + or - $50 building the box and amp rack myself while having 0awg cable sitting around. A lot of people forget the little items and they add up quick, but if you shop around you can find great deals. I could build another for probably $500 or $5500 but results would greatly vary.
So how do you fix the issue? I added subwoofers, and amps and anything over volume 15, I get the true base for about 10-15 seconds then it all gets squelched out......
 
I will collect the tremor this weekend and I before even listening to the factory stereo, I know I will be disappointed in the base sync system performance. Does anyone have audio experience with the sync system? Not looking for competition quality by any means, but I do enjoy a bit more clarity and bass. Has anyone already done this or have any recommendations?

Objectively, the b&o system is terrible. The drivers are too thin, the surround is cheap synthetic, the baskets are made of a thin plastic, and the magnets are more of an idea than a physical reality.

The one thing you absolutely must do is purchase a Zen A2B interface module, these vehicles are too interconnected to slice in like we used to. From there, you really only have to rely upon your inherent preferences to see you through.

The front speakers are component, and if you are fine with the distortion native to a 6x9 or 5x8 driver, then you can find a number of direct placement solutions. If you do not prefer the sound produced by these drivers, then 6.5's will fit nicely with an adaptor plate.

The rear are coaxial 6.5's. The center is a 3.5. Throw away the sub and the factory amp.

Ford left no space unutilized in these cabs, so behind the seat placement will be difficult. Shallow mount subs are obvious, but over 10 inches will present problems, particularly if you have the sliding rear window. I am trying to find a builder to create a one-off box that allows me to install a 13.5" JL Audio TW5 back there.

Obviously, many choose to sacrifice the storage under the seats. This allows you significantly greater freedom of motion in regard to what you install, I do not want to part with that space, so my options are more limited.

Ultimately, recommending an amp or speaker brand is pointless as, for this decade anyway, the 'correct' answer will always be Focal and JL Audio, but not everyone has that level of discretionary spending. Personally, I'm running Hertz across the board, three Rockford amps, and as I've said - I've yet to solve for the rear sub though it will be JL.

Other projects always seem to be more important than audio, so while I have most of the components already, things like lighting and suspension just keep getting in the way of tackling the installation.

Hope this helps.
 
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