Audio Upgrade MTI Acoustics

spankee

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2021F250 LariatTremor
Finally received all the items from MTI for my audio upgrade and installed it over the weekend. Install took a good 2 days to do everything right. Let meet tell you that this is a serious upgrade to the factory B&O garbage. If you spend extended amounts of time in your truck and love music then this really makes it that more enjoyable and worth it.

I wanted to keep my under seat storage and hide everything out of sight. You can go crazy with their under seat multiple subwoofer enclosures but the single 10" is more than enough for great sound quality.

Factory head unit, and all factory wiring was retained, nothing was cut. This is what it all consist of.

- NavTV Zen A2B converter
- JL Audio 1000VX/5i 5 channel amp with built in DSP
- JL Audio DRC-205 Remote level controller
- JL Audio 10TW3 in MTI enclosure
- Focal PS 165 FE Front 2-way components
- Focal PC 165 FE Rear 2-way coaxials
- MTI Amp rack, speaker adaptors, and door access covers
- SoundShield Sound deadening on all doors and rear panel (this is key to great sound)
- PAC speaker harness adaptor

MTI use known for their quality builds and their recommendations did not disappoint.
 

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Finally received all the items from MTI for my audio upgrade and installed it over the weekend. Install took a good 2 days to do everything right. Let meet tell you that this is a serious upgrade to the factory B&O garbage. If you spend extended amounts of time in your truck and love music then this really makes it that more enjoyable and worth it.

I wanted to keep my under seat storage and hide everything out of sight. You can go crazy with their under seat multiple subwoofer enclosures but the single 10" is more than enough for great sound quality.

Factory head unit, and all factory wiring was retained, nothing was cut. This is what it all consist of.

- NavTV Zen A2B converter
- JL Audio 1000VX/5i 5 channel amp with built in DSP
- JL Audio DRC-205 Remote level controller
- JL Audio 10TW3 in MTI enclosure
- Focal PS 165 FE Front 2-way components
- Focal PC 165 FE Rear 2-way coaxials
- MTI Amp rack, speaker adaptors, and door access covers
- SoundShield Sound deadening on all doors and rear panel (this is key to great sound)
- PAC speaker harness adaptor

MTI use known for their quality builds and their recommendations did not disappoint.
Awesome, man. I like the idea of a single 10" sub behind the rear seat.
 
Finally received all the items from MTI for my audio upgrade and installed it over the weekend. Install took a good 2 days to do everything right. Let meet tell you that this is a serious upgrade to the factory B&O garbage. If you spend extended amounts of time in your truck and love music then this really makes it that more enjoyable and worth it.

I wanted to keep my under seat storage and hide everything out of sight. You can go crazy with their under seat multiple subwoofer enclosures but the single 10" is more than enough for great sound quality.

Factory head unit, and all factory wiring was retained, nothing was cut. This is what it all consist of.

- NavTV Zen A2B converter
- JL Audio 1000VX/5i 5 channel amp with built in DSP
- JL Audio DRC-205 Remote level controller
- JL Audio 10TW3 in MTI enclosure
- Focal PS 165 FE Front 2-way components
- Focal PC 165 FE Rear 2-way coaxials
- MTI Amp rack, speaker adaptors, and door access covers
- SoundShield Sound deadening on all doors and rear panel (this is key to great sound)
- PAC speaker harness adaptor

MTI use known for their quality builds and their recommendations did not disappoint.

That looks like an awesome setup! (y)
 
Can you give a rough idea of the price to do this?
I paid about 4k for everything needed for a quality install. You can save money by going with a different amp and different speakers but you could also spend a lot more for top shelf components. If you don't have the B&O system, you can also save $500 to $600 because you don't need the Zen A2B converter. This is all considering you do the install yourself
 
sorry I don’t know what that is. What’s the Zen for? So I have a JL audio amp plus a few JL audio subs from my old truck. I need that Zen module to make that work?
It is needed for the factory B&O system. The factory B&O head unit actually has a very clean digital output. The problem is it feeds the factory amplifier that decodes the signal and it does it's own processing. The factory amplifier is designed to protect the "cheap" factory speakers by not over driving them. If you only replace the factory speakers, you still get the factory roll off of bass at higher volumes. It will sound a little better at lower volumes but still struggle at higher volumes.

The Zen A2B takes the factory digital signal and converts it to a clean analog RCA output or an optical digital toslink output compatible with aftermarket amplifiers and processors. I recommend the analog RCA outputs as it has as higher output voltage for more volume and you can still retain the front and rear fader control that you will lose with the optical output. The only benefit to the optical output is one cable to the amp instead of 3 pairs of RCA cables.

The unit is also plug and play and the setup tool use very simple to use. It also retains the factory chimes and warnings which you can adjust the volume to your liking and Bluetooth audio calling isn't distorted.
 
Wow thanks for the detail! I’ve been wanting to do this exact setup but I know nothing about how to piece the components together.

did you order a package from one retailer or piece it all together?
 
Wow thanks for the detail! I’ve been wanting to do this exact setup but I know nothing about how to piece the components together.

did you order a package from one retailer or piece it all together?
I ordered it all from MTI Acoustics. They will get you everything you need and give you a package discount that will save you a couple hundred dollars.
 
I paid about 4k for everything needed for a quality install. You can save money by going with a different amp and different speakers but you could also spend a lot more for top shelf components. If you don't have the B&O system, you can also save $500 to $600 because you don't need the Zen A2B converter. This is all considering you do the install yourself
Thank you very much, that is helpful.
 
So you were able to retain all under seat storage with this setup? I’ve heard of the NavTV Zen module, which is the only reason I’ve now considered upgrading the audio. My two biggest concerns were total factory dash function and no change in storage capability.
 
I paid about 4k for everything needed for a quality install. You can save money by going with a different amp and different speakers but you could also spend a lot more for top shelf components. If you don't have the B&O system, you can also save $500 to $600 because you don't need the Zen A2B converter. This is all considering you do the install yourself
That’s actually not bad at all. How was the door panel removal? Last vehicle I did was a 2012.. seems like everything is getting harder lol
 
I'd love to know more about this install. Like, you mentioned you didn't have to cut or splice anything, which is always nice. What wires did you have to run? Was there existing wiring to the factory amp that allowed you to do a lot without having to run new lines? Pictures? I know the thread is a few months old, but would love to chat about this for sure. I honestly don't mind the B&O system, and planned on doing some sound deadening just because. But you price isn't bad if it makes a huge difference in sound, and doesn't sacrifice function. Then I can install speakers/sound deadening at the same time.
 
So you were able to retain all under seat storage with this setup? I’ve heard of the NavTV Zen module, which is the only reason I’ve now considered upgrading the audio. My two biggest concerns were total factory dash function and no change in storage capability.
All under seat storage was retained. I need that space and that's why I went with the single sub setup. The factory power inverter is also still there. The only thing you have to do is remove the jack and holding bracket.
I store the jack under the seat, the jack tools still remain in the stock locations.

The functions of the radio are exactly the same as stock, nothing has changed in that aspect.
 
That’s actually not bad at all. How was the door panel removal? Last vehicle I did was a 2012.. seems like everything is getting harder lol
Door panels are simple to remove, just take out the screws and yank on it to pop it off! Disconnect the connectors and door handle. They are big so they require a lot of sound deadening on the inside is the outer door skin and between the door and door panels.
 
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